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ALEXANDER  MACKENZIE  Esf 


Voyages  from  Montreal 

through  the  Continent 

of  North  America 

to  the  Frozen  and  Pacific 
Oceans   in  1789  and  1793 

with  an  account  of  the  rise 
and  state  of  the  fiir  trade 

BY 

Alexander  Mackenzie 


WITH  MAP 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES 

Volume  II 


MCMXXII 

ALLERTON  BOOK  CO. 

New  York 


105339 


Copyright,  1904,  by 
Williams-Barker  Co« 


Printed  in  the  United  States  of  America 


1^1 


Table  of  Contents. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Removed  from  the  tent  to  the  house.  Build  habita- 
tions for  the  people.  The  hardships  they  suffer. 
Violent  hurricane.  Singular  circumstances  at- 
tending it.  The  commencement  of  the  new  year. 
An  Indian  cured  of  a  dangerous  wound.  State  of 
the  weather.  Curious  customs  among  the  In- 
dians, on  the  death  of  a  relation.  Account  of  a 
quarrel.  An  Indian's  reasoning  on  it.  Murder 
of  one  of  the  Indians.  The  cause  of  it.  Some 
account  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Indians.  Curious 
circumstance  respecting  a  woman  in  labour,  etc. 
A  dispute  between  two  Indians,  which  arose  from 
gaming.  An  account  of  one  of  their  games.  In> 
dian  superstition.  Mildness  of  the  season.  The 
Indians  prepare  snow  shoes.  Singular  customs. 
Further  account  of  their  manners.  The  slavish 
state  of  the  women.  Appearance  of  spring.  Dis- 
patch canoes  with  the  trade  to  Fort  Chepewyan. 
Make  preparations  for  the  voyage  of  discov- 
ery  9 

CHAPTER  II. 

Proceed  on  the  voyage  of  discovery.  Beautiful 
scenery.  The  canoe  too  heavily  laden.  The 
country  in  a  state  of  combustion.  Meet  with  a 
hunting  parly.  State  of  the  river,  etc.  Meet 
with  Indians.  See  the  tracks  of  bears,  and  one  ot 
their  dens.  Sentiment  of  an  Indian.  Junction 
of  the  Bear  River.  Appearance  of  the  country, 
iii 


CONTENTS. 

State  of  the  river.  Observe  a  fall  of  timber. 
Abundance  of  animals.  See  some  bears.  Come 
in  sight  of  the  rocky  mountains.  The  canoe  re- 
ceives an  injury  and  is  repaired.  Navigation 
dangerous.  Rapids  and  falls.  Succession  of  dif- 
ficulties and  dangers, 31 

CHAPTER  III. 

Continuation  of  difficulties  and  dangers.  Discon- 
tents among  the  people.  State  of  the  river  and 
its  banks.  Volcanic  chasms  in  the  earth.  Dis- 
patch various  persons  to  discover  ways  across  the 
mountain.  Obstacles  present  themselves  on  all 
sides.  Preparations  made  to  attempt  the  moun- 
tain. Account  of  the  ascent  with  the  canoe  and 
baggage.  The  trees  that  are  found  there.  Ar- 
rive at  the  river.  Extraordinary  circumstances 
of  it.  Curious  hollows  in  the  rocks.  Prepare  the 
canoe.  Renew  our  progress  up  the  river.  The 
state  of  it.  Leave  some  tokens  of  amity  for  the 
natives.  The  weather  very  cold.  Lost  a  book  of 
my  observations  for  several  days.  Continue  to 
proceed  up  the  river.  Send  a  letter  down  the 
current  in  a  rum-keg.  Came  to  the  forks,  and 
proceed  up  the  Eastern  branch.  Circumstances 
of  it, 58 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Continue  our  voyage.  Heavy  fog.  The  water 
rises.  Succession  of  courses.  Progressive  ac- 
count of  this  branch.  Leave  the  canoe  to  proceed, 
and  ascend  a  hill  to  reconnoitre.  Climb  a  tree  to 
extend  my  view  of  the  country.  Return  to  the 
River.  The  canoe  not  arrived.  Go  in  search  of 
it.  Extreme  heat,  musquitoes,  etc.  Increasing 
anxiety,  respecting  the  canoe.  It  at  length  ap- 
iv 


CONTENTS. 

pears.  Violent  storm.  Circumstances  of  our 
progress.  Forced  to  haul  the  canoe  up  the  stream 
by  the  branches  of  trees.  Succession  of  courses. 
Wild  parsnips  along  the  river.  Expect  to  meet 
with  natives.  Courses  continued.  Fall  in  with 
some  natives.  Our  intercourse  with  them.  Ac- 
count of  their  dress,  arms,  utensils,  and  manners, 
etc.  New  discouragements  and  difficulties  pre- 
sent themselves, 78 

CHAPTER  V. 

Continue  the  voyage.  State  of  the  river.  Succes- 
sion of  courses.  Sentiment  of  the  guide.  Coni- 
cal mountain.  Continuation  of  courses.  Leave 
the  main  branch.  Enter  another.  Description  of 
it.  Saw  beaver.  Enter  a  lake.  Arrive  at  the 
upper  source  of  the  Unjigab,  or  Peace  River. 
Land,  and  cross  to  a  second  lake.  Local  circum- 
stances. Proceed  to  a  third  lake.  Enter  a  river. 
Encounter  various  difficulties.  In  danger  of  being 
lost.  The  circumstances  of  that  situation  de- 
scribed. Alarm  and  dissatisfaction  among  the 
people.  They  are  at  length  composed.  The  ca- 
noe repaired.  Roads  cut  through  woods.  Pass 
morasses.  The  guide  deserts.  After  a  succession 
of  difficulties,  dangers,  and  toilsome  marches,  we 
arrive  at  the  great  river,  ....  102 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Rainy  night.  Proceed  on  the  great  river.  Circum- 
stances of  it.  Account  of  courses.  Come  to  rap- 
ids. Observe  several  smokes.  See  a  flight  of 
white  ducks.  Pass  over  a  carrying- place  with  the 
canoe,  etc.  The  difficulties  of  that  passage. 
Abundance  of  wild  onions.  Re-embark  on  the 
river.  See  some  of  the  natives.  They  desert 
V 


CONTENTS. 

their  camp  and  fly  into  the  woods.  Courses  con- 
tinued. Kill  a  red  deer,  etc.  Circumstances  of 
the  river.  Arrive  at  an  Indian  habitation.  De- 
scription of  it.  Account  of  a  curious  machine  to 
catch  fish.  Land  to  procure  bark  for  the  purpose 
of  constructing  a  new  canoe.  Conceal  a  quantity 
of  pemmican  for  provision  on  our  return.  Suc- 
cession of  courses.  Meet  with  some  of  the  natives. 
Our  intercourse  with  them.  Their  information 
respecting  the  river,  and  the  country.  Descrip- 
tion of  those  people, 137 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Renew  our  voyage,  accompanied  by  two  of  the  na- 
tives. Account  of  courses.  State  of  the  river. 
Arrive  at  a  subterranean  house.  See  several  na- 
tives. Brief  description  of  them.  Account  of 
our  conference  with  them.  Saw  other  natives. 
Description  of  them.  Their  conduct,  etc.  The 
account  which  they  gave  of  the  country.  The 
narrative  of  a  female  prisoner.  The  perplexities 
of  my  situation.  Specimen  of  the  language  of 
two  tribes.  Change  the  plan  of  my  journey. 
Return  up  the  river.  Succession  of  dangers  and 
difficulties.  Land  on  an  island  to  build  another 
canoe, 154 

CHAPTER  Vm. 

Make  preparations  to  build  a  canoe.  Engage  in 
that  improtant  work.  It  proceeds  with  great  ex- 
pedition. The  guide  who  had  deserted  arrives 
with  another  Indian.  He  communicates  agreeable 
intelligence.  They  take  an  opportunity  to  quit 
the  island.  Complete  the  canoe.  Leave  the  isl- 
and, which  was  now  named  the  Canoe  Island. 
Obliged  to  put  the  people  on  short  allowance. 
Account  of  the  navigation.  Difficult  ascent  of  a 
vi 


CONTENTS. 

rapid.  Fresh  perplexities.  Continue  our  voyage 
up  the  river.  Meet  the  guide  and  some  of  his 
friends.  Conceal  some  pemmican  and  other  arti- 
cles. Make  preparations  for  proceeding  over 
land.  Endeavour  to  secure  the  canoe  till  our  re- 
turn. Proceed  on  our  journey.  Various  circum- 
stances of  it, 187 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Continue  our  journey.  Embark  on  a  river.  Come 
to  a  weir.  Dexterity  of  the  natives  in  passing  it. 
Arrive  at  a  village.  Alarm  occasioned  among  the 
natives.  The  subsequent  favourable  reception, 
accompanied  with  a  banquet  of  ceremony.  Cir- 
cumstances of  it.  Description  of  a  village,  its 
houses,  and  places  of  devotion.  Account  of  the 
customs,  mode  of  living,  and  superstition  of  the 
inhabitants.  Description  of  the  chief's  canoe. 
Leave  the  place,  and  proceed  on  our  voyage,  351 

CHAPTER  X. 
Renev  our  voyage.  Circumstances  of  the  river. 
Land  at  the  house  of  a  chief.  Entertained  by 
him.  Carried  down  the  river  with  great  rapidity 
to  another  house.  Received  with  kindness.  Oc- 
cupations of  the  inhabitants  on  its  banks.  Leave 
the  canoe  at  a  fall.  Pass  over  land  to  another  vil- 
lage. Some  account  of  it.  Obtain  a  view  of  an 
arm  of  the  sea.  Lose  our  dog.  Procure  another 
canoe.  Arrive  at  the  arm  of  the  sea.  Circum- 
stances of  it.  One  of  our  guides  returns  home. 
Coast  along  a  bay.  Some  description  of  it.  Meet 
with  Lidians.  Our  communication  with  them. 
Their  suspicious  conduct  towards  us.  Pass  on- 
wards. Determine  the  latitude  and  longitude. 
Return  to  the  river.  Dangerous  encounter  with 
the  Indians.  Proceed  on  our  journey,  .  .  267 
vii 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Return  up  the  river.  Slow  progress  of  the  canoe, 
from  the  strength  of  the  current.  The  hostile 
party  of  the  natives  precedes  us.  Impetuous  con- 
duct of  my  people.  Continue  our  very  tedious 
voyage.  Come  to  some  houses;  received  with 
great  kindness.  Arrive  at  the  principal,  or  Sal- 
mon Village.  Our  present  reception  very  differ- 
ent from  that  we  experienced  on  our  former  visit. 
Continue  our  journey.  Circumstances  of  it. 
Find  our  dog.  Arrive  at  the  Upper,  or  Friendly 
Village.  Meet  with  a  very  kind  reception.  Some 
further  account  of  the  manners  and  customs  of 
its  inhabitants.  Brief  vocabulary  of  their  lan- 
guage,      290 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Leave  the  Friendly  Village.  Attentions  of  the  na- 
tives at  our  departure.  Stop  to  divide  our  pro- 
visions. Begin  to  ascend  the  mountains.  Cir- 
cumstances of  the  ascent.  Journey  continued. 
Arrive  at  the  place  from  whence  we  set  out  by 
land.  Meet  with  Indians  there.  Find  the  canoe, 
and  all  the  other  articles  in  a  state  of  perfect  se- 
curity and  preservation.  Means  employed  to 
compel  the  restoration  of  articles  which  were 
afterwards  stolen.  Proceed  on  our  homeward- 
bound  voyage.  Some  account  of  the  natives  on 
the  river.  The  canoe  is  run  on  a  rock,  etc.  Cir- 
cumstances of  the  voyage.  Enter  the  Peace 
River.  Statement  of  courses.  Continue  our 
route.  Circumstances  of  it.  Proceed  onwards  in 
a  small  canoe,  with  an  Indian,  to  the  lower  fort, 
leaving  the  rest  of  the  people  to  follow  me.  Ar- 
rive at  Fort  Chepewyan.  The  voyage  con- 
cluded,     316 

viii 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE,  &c. 


CHAPTER   I. 


DECEMBER  23,  1792. 

I  this  day  removed  from  the  tent  into  the 
house  which  had  been  erected  for  me,  and  set 
all  the  men  to  begin  the  buildings  intended 
for  their  own  habitation.  Materials  sufficient 
to  erect  a  range  of  five  houses  for  them,  of 
about  seventeen  by  twelve  feet,  were  already 
collected.  It  would  be  considered  by  the  in- 
habitants of  a  milder  climate,  as  a  great  evil, 
to  be  exposed  to  the  weather  at  this  rigorous 
season  of  the  year,  but  these  people  are  in- 
ured to  it,  and  it  is  necessary  to  describe  in 
some  measure  the  hardships  which  they  un- 
dergo without  a  murmur,  in  order  to  convey 
a  general  notion  of  them. 

The  men  who  were  now  with  me,  left  this 
place  in  the  beginning  of  last  May,  and  went 
to  the  Eainy  Lake  in  canoes,  laden  with, 
packs  of  fur,  which,  from  the  immense  length 
of  the  voyage,  and  other  concurring  circum- 
stances, is  a  most  severe  trial  of  patience  and 
perseverance:  there  they  do  not  remain  a 
sufficient  time  for  ordinary  repose,  when  they 


JOURNAL   OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

take  a  load  of  goods  in  exchange,  and  proceed 
on  their  return,  in  a  great  measure,  day  and 
night.  They  had  been  arrived  near  two 
months,  and,  all  that  time,  had  been  continu- 
ally engaged  in  very  toilsome  labour,  with 
nothing  more  than  a  common  shed  to  protect 
them  from  the  frost  and  snow.  Such  is  the 
life  which  these  people  lead ;  and  is  continued 
with  unremitting  exertion,  till  their  strength 
is  lost  in  premature  old  age. 

The  Canadians  remarked,  that  the  weather 
we  had  on  the  25th,  26th,  and  27th  of  this 
month,  denoted  such  as  we  might  expect  in 
the  three  succeeding  months.  On  the  29th, 
the  wind  being  at  ISTorth-East,  and  the  weather 
calm  and  cloudy,  a  rumbling  noise  was  heard 
in  the  air  like  distant  thunder,  when  the  sky 
cleared  away  in  the  South- West ;  from  whence 
there  blew  a  perfect  hurricane,  which  lasted 
till  eight.  Soon  after  it  commenced,  the  at- 
mosphere became  so  warm  that  it  dissolved 
all  the  snow  on  the  ground ;  even  the  ice  was 
covered  with  water,  and  had  the  same  ap- 
pearance as  when  it  is  breaking  up  in  the 
spring.  From  eight  to  nine  the  weather  be- 
came calm,  but  immediately  after  a  wind  arose 
from  the  North-East  with  equal  violence, 
with  clouds,  rain,  and  hail,  which  continued 
throughout  the  night  till  the  evening  of  the 
next  day,  when  it  turned  to  snow.  One  of 
the  people  who  v\'intered  at  Fort  Dauphin  in 
10 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

the  3'ear  1780,  when  the  small  pox  first  ap- 
peared there,  informed  me,  that  the  weather 
there  was  of  a  similar  description, 

January  1,  1793. — On  the  first  day  of  Jan- 
uary, my  people,  in  conformity  to  the  usual 
custom,  awoke  me  at  the  break  of  day  with 
the  discharge  of  fire-arms,  with  which  they 
congratulated  the  appearance  of  the  new  year. 
In  return,  they  were  treated  with  plenty  of 
spirits,  and  when  there  is  any  flour,  cakes  are 
always  added  to  their  regales,  which  was  the 
case,  on  the  present  occasion. 

On  my  arrival  here  last  fall,  I  found  that 
one  of  the  young  Indians  had  lost  the  use  of 
his  right  hand  by  the  bursting  of  a  gun,  and 
that  his  thumb  had  been  maimed  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  hang  only  by  a  small  strip  of 
flesh.  Indeed,  when  he  was  brought  to  me,, 
his  wound  w^as  in  such  an  offensive  state,  and 
emitted  such  a  putrid  smell,  that  it  required 
all  the  resolution  I  possessed  to  examine  it. 
His  friends  had  done  every  thing  in  their 
power  to  relieve  him ;  but  as  it  consisted  only 
in  singing  about  him,  and  blowing  upon  his 
hand,  the  wound,  as  may  be  well  imagined, 
had  got  into  the  deplorable  state  in  which  I 
found  it.  I  was  rather  alarmed  at  the  diffi- 
culty of  the  case,  but  as  the  young  man's  life 
was  in  a  state  of  hazard,  I  was  determined  to 
risk  my  surgical  reputation,  and  accordingly 
took  him  under  my  care.  I  immediately 
11 


JO¥Rif  AL  OF  A  TOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

formed  a  poultice  of  bark,  stripped  from  the 
roots  of  the  spr«.ce-fij,  which  I  applied  to  the 
wound,  haring  first  washed  it  with  the  juice 
•f  the  bark :  this  proved  a  very  painful  dress- 
ing :  in  a  few  days,  however,  the  wound  was 
elean,  and  the  proud  fiesh  around  it  destroyed. 
I  wished  very  much  in  this  state  of  the  busi- 
ness to  have  separated  the  thumb  from  the 
hand,  which  I  well  knew  must  be  effected  be- 
fore the  car©  could  be  performed;  but  he 
would  not  consent  to  that  operation,  till,  by 
the  application  of  vitriol,  the  flesh  by  which 
the  thumb  was  suspended,  was  shrivelled  al- 
most to  a  thread.  When  I  had  succeeded  in 
this  object,  I  perceived  that  the  wound  was 
closing  rather  faster  than  I  desired.  The 
•alve  I  applied  on  the  occasion  was  made  of 
the  Canadiaa.  balsam,  wax  and  tallow  dropped 
from  a  burning  candle  into  water.  In  short, 
I  was  so  successful,  that  about  Christmas  my 
patient  engaged  in  a  hunting  party,  and 
brought  me  the  tongue  of  an  elk :  nor  was  he 
finally  ungrateful.  When  he  left  me  I  re- 
ceived the  warmest  acknowledgments,  both 
from  himself  and  his  relations  with  whom  he 
departed,  for  my  care  of  him.  I  certainly 
did  not  spare  my  time  or  attention  on  the  oc- 
casion, as  I  regularly  dressed  his  wound  three 
times  a  day,  during  the  course  of  a  month. 

On  the  5th  in  the  morning  the  weather  was 
calm,  clear,  and  very  cold;   the  wind  blew 
12 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

from  the  South-West,  and  in  the  course  of 
the  afternoon  it  began  to  thaw.  I  had  al- 
ready observed  at  Athabasca,  that  this  wind 
never  failed  to  bring  us  clear  mild  weather, 
whereas,  when  it  blew  from  the  opposite 
quarter,  it  produced  snow.  Here  it  is  much 
more  perceptible,  for  if  it  blows  hard  South- 
West  for  four  hours,  a  thaw  is  the  conse- 
quence, and  if  the  wind  is  at  North-East  it 
brings  sleet  and  snow.  To  this  cause  it  may 
be  attributed,  that  there  is  now  so  little  snow 
in  this  part  of  the  world.  These  warm  winds 
come  off  the  Pacific  Ocean,  which  cannot,  in 
a  direct  line,  be  very  far  from  us ;  the  dis- 
tance being  so  short,  that  though  they  pass 
over  mountains  covered  with  snow,  there  is 
not  time  for  them  to  cool. 

There  being  several  of  the  natives  at  the 
house  at  this  time,  one  of  them,  who  had  re- 
ceived an  account  of  the  death  of  his  father, 
proceeded  in  silence  to  his  lodge,  and  began 
to  fire  off  his  gun.  As  it  was  night,  and  such 
a  noise  being  so  uncommon  at  such  an  hour, 
especially  when  it  was  so  often  repeated,  I 
sent  my  interpreter  to  inquire  into  the  cause 
of  it,  when  he  was  informed  by  the  man  him- 
self, that  this  was  a  common  custom  with 
them  on  the  death  of  a  near  relation,  and  was 
a  warning  to  their  friends  not  to  approach,  or 
intrude  upon  them,  as  they  were,  in  conse- 
quence of  their  loss,  become  careless  of  life. 
13 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

The  chief,  to  whom  the  deceased  person  was 
also  related,  appeared  with  his  war-cap  on 
his  head,  which  is  only  worn  on  these  solemn 
occasions,  or  when  preparing  for  battle,  and 
confirmed  to  me  this  singular  custom  of  firing 
guns,  in  order  to  express  their  grief  for  the 
death  of  relations  and  friends.*"  The  women 
alone  indulge  in  tears  on  such  occasions ;  the 
men  considering  it  as  a  mark  of  pusillanimity 
and  a  want  of  fortitude  to  betray  any  personal 
tokens  of  sensibility  or 'sorrow. 

The  Indians  informed  me,  that  they  had 
been  to  hunt  at  a  large  lake,  called  by  the 
Xnisteneaux,  the  Slave  Lake,  which  derived 
its  name  from  that  of  its  original  inhabitants, 
who  were  called  Slaves.  They  represented 
it  as  a  large  body  of  water,  and  that  it  lies 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  due  East 
from  this  place.  It  is  well  known  to  the 
Knisteneaux,  who  are  among  the  inhabitants 
of  the  plains  on  the  banks  of  the  Saskatchi- 
wine  river ;  for  formerly,  when  they  used  to 
come  to  make  war  in  this  country,  they  came 
in  their  canoes  to  that  lake,  and  left  them 

*  When  they  are  driukiug  together,  they  fre- 
quently present  their  guns  to  each  other,  when  any 
of  the  parties  have  not  other  means  of  procuring 
rum.  On  such  an  occasion  they  always  discharge 
their  pieces,  as  a  proof,  I  imagine,  of  their  being  in 
good  order,  and  to  determine  the  quantity  of  liquor 
they  may  propose  to  get  in  exchange  for  them. 
14 


NORTH-WEST   CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

there;  from  thence,  there  is  a  beaten  path  all 
the  way  to  the  Fork,  or  East  branch  of  this 
river,  which  was  their  war-road. 

January  10. — Among  the  people  who  were 
now  here,  there  were  two  Rocky  Mountain  In- 
dians, who  declared,  that  the  people  to  whom 
we  had  given  that  denommation,  are  by  no 
means  entitled  to  it,  and  that  their  country 
has  ever  been  in  the  vicinity  of  our  present 
situation.  They  said,  in  support  of  their  as- 
sertion, that  these  people  were  entirely  ignor- 
ant of  those  parts  which  are  adjacent  to  the 
mountain,  as  well  as  the  navigation  of  the 
river;  that  the  Beaver  Indians  had  greatly 
encroached  upon  them,  and  would  soon  fore© 
them  to  retire  to  the  foot  of  these  mountains. 
They  represented  themselves  as  the  only  real 
natives  of  that  country  then  with  me;  and 
added,  that  the  country,  and  that  part  of  the 
river  that  intervenes  between  this  place  and 
the  mountains,  bear  much  the  same  appear- 
ance as  that  around  us;  that  the  former 
abounds  with  animals,  but  that  the  course  of 
the  latter  is  interrupted,  near,  and  in  the 
mountains,  by  successive  rapids  and  consider- 
able falls.  These  men  also  informed  me,  that 
there  is  another  great  river  towards  the  mid- 
day sun,  whose  current  runs  in  that  direc- 
tion, and  that  the  distance  from  it  is  not  great 
across  the  mountains. 

The  natives  brought  me  plenty  of  furs. 
15 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

The  small  quantity  of  snow,  at  this  time,  was 
particularly  favourable  for  hunting  the  beaver, 
as  from  this  circumstance,  those  animals 
could,  with  greater  facility,  be  traced  from 
theii'  lodges  to  their  lurking-places. 

On  the  12th  our  hunter  arrived,  having  left 
his  mother-in-law,  who  was  lately  become  a 
widow  with  three  small  children,  and  in  ac- 
tual labour  of  a  fourth.  Her  daughter  re- 
lated this  circumstance  to  the  women  here 
without  the  least  appearance  of  concern, 
though  she  represented  her  as  in  a  state  of 
great  danger,  which  probably  might  proceed 
from  her  being  abandoned  in  this  unnatural 
manner.  At  the  same  time  without  any  ap- 
parent consciousness  of  her  own  barbarous 
negligence,  if  the  poor  abandoned  woman 
should  die,  she  would  most  probably  lament 
her  with  great  outcries,  and,  perhaps  cut  off 
one  or  two  joints  of  her  fingers  as  tokens  of 
her  grief.  The  Indians,  indeed,  consider  the 
state  of  a  woman  in  labour  as  among  the  most 
trifling  occurrences  of  corporal  pain  to  which 
human  nature  is  subject,  and  they  may  be,  in 
some  measure  justified  in  this  apparent  in- 
sensibility from  the  circumstances  of  that  sit- 
uation among  themselves.  It  is  by  no  means 
uncommon  in  the  hasty  removal  of  their 
camps  from  one  position  to  another,  for  a 
woman  to  be  taken  in  labour,  to  deliver  her- 
self in  her  way,  without  any  assistance  or 
16 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

notice  from  her  associates  in  her  journey,  and 
to  overtake  them  before  they  complete  the  ar- 
rangements of  their  evening  station,  with  her 
new-born  babe  on  her  back. 

I  was  this  morning  threatened  with  a  very 
unpleasant  event,  which,  however,  I  was  for- 
tunately able  to  controul.  Two  young  In- 
dians being  engaged  in  one  of  their  games,  a 
dispute  ensued,  which  rose  to  such  a  height, 
that  they  drew  their  knives,  and  if  I  had  not 
happened  to  have  appeared,  they  would  I 
doubt  not,  have  employed  them  to  very 
bloody  purposes.  So  violent  was  their  rage, 
that  after  I  had  turned  them  both  out  of  the 
house,  and  severely  reprimanded  them,  they 
stood  in  the  fort  for  at  least  half  an  hour, 
looking  at  each  other  with  a  most  vindictive 
aspect,  and  in  sullen  silence. 

The  game  which  produced  this  state  of  bit- 
ter enmity,  is  called  that  of  the  Platter,  from 
a  principal  article  of  it.  The  Indians  play 
at  it  in  the  following  manner. 

The  instruments  of  it  consist  of  a  platter, 

or  dish,  made  of  wood  or  bark,  and  six  round 

or  square  but  flat  pieces  of  metal,  wood,  or 

stone,  whose  sides  or  surfaces  are  of  different 

colours.     These  are  put  into  the  dish,  and 

after  being  for  some  time  shaken  together, 

are  thrown  into  the  air,  and  received  again  into 

the  dish  with  considerable  dexterity;  when, 

by  the  number  that  are  turned  up  of  the  same 
Vol.  II.— 3  17 


JOURlSrAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

mark  or  colour,  tlie  game  is  regulated.  If 
there  should  be  equal  numbers,  the  throw  is 
not  reckoned;  if  two  or  four,  the  platter 
changes  hands. 

On  the  13th,  one  of  these  people  came  to 
me,  and  presented  in  himself  a  curious  ex- 
ample of  Indian  superstition.  He  requested 
me  to  furnish  him  with  a  remedy  that  might 
be  applied  to  the  joints  of  his  legs  and  thighs, 
of  which  he  had,  in  a  great  measure  lost  the 
use  for  five  winters.  This  affliction  he  at- 
tributed to  his  cruelty  about  that  time,  when 
having  found  a  wolf  with  two  whelps  in  an 
old  beaver  lodge,  he  set  fire  to  it  and  con- 
sumed them. 

The  winter  had  been  so  mild,  that  the 
swans  had  but  lately  left  us,  and  at  this  ad- 
vanced period  there  was  very  little  snow  on 
the  ground :  it  was,  however,  at  this  time  a 
foot  and  a  half  in  depth,  in  the  environs  of 
the  establishment  below  this,  which  is  at  the 
distance  of  about  seventy  leagues. 

On  the  28th  the  Indians  were  now  em- 
ployed in  making  their  snow-shoes,  as  the 
snow  had  not  hitherto  fallen  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  render  them  necessary. 

February  2. — The  weather  now  became  very 
cold,  and  it  froze  so  hard  in  the  night  that 
my  watch  stopped ;  a  circumstance  that  had 
never  happened  to  this  watch  since  my  resi- 
dence in  the  country. 

18 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

There  was  a  lodge  of  Indians  here,  who 
were  absolutely  starvmg  with  cold  and  hun- 
ger. They  had  lately  lost  a  near  relation, 
and  had  according  to  custom,  thrown  away 
every  thing  belonging  to  them,  and  evea  ex- 
changed the  few  articles  of  raiment  which 
they  possessed,  in  order,  as  I  presume,  to  get 
rid  of  every  thing  that  may  bring  the  deceased 
to^  their  remembrance.  They  also  destroy 
every  thing  belonging  to  any  deceased  person, 
except  what  they  consign  to  the  grave  with 
the  late  owner  of  them.  We  had  some  diffi- 
culty to  make  them  comprehend  that  the 
debts  of  a  man  who  dies  should  be  discharged, 
if  he  left  any  furs  behind  him :  but  those  who 
understand  this  principle  of  justice,  and  pro- 
fess to  adhere  it,  never  fail  to  x^revent  the  ap- 
pearance of  any  skins  beyond  such  as  may  be 
necessary  to  satisfy  the  debts  of  their  dead 
relation. 

On  the  8th  I  had  an  observation  for  the 
longitude.  In  the  course  of  this  day  one  of 
my  men,  who  had  been  some  time  with  the 
Indians,  came  to  inform  me  that  one  of  them 
had  threatened  to  stab  him ;  and  on  his  pre- 
ferring a  complaint  to  the  man  with  whom  he 
now  lived,  and  to  whom  I  had  given  him  in 
charge,  he  replied,  that  he  had  been  very  im- 
prudent to  play  and  quarrel  with  the  young 
Indians  out  of  his  lodge,  where  no  one  would 
dare  to  come  and  quarrel  with  him ;  but  that 
19 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

if  lie  had  lost  his  life  where  he  had  been,  it 
would  have  been  the  consequence  of  his  own 
folly.  Thus,  even  among  these  children  of 
natiire,  it  appears  that  a  man's  house  is  his 
castle,  where  the  protection  of  hospitality  is 
rigidly  maintained. 

The  hard  frost  which  had  prevailed  from 
the  beginning  of  February  continued  to  the 
16th  of  March,  when  the  wind  blowing  from 
the  South- West,  the  weather  became  mild. 

On  the  22d  a  wolf  was  so  bold  as  to 
venture  among  the  Indian  lodges,  and  was 
very  near  carrying  ofe  a  child. 

I  had  another  observation  of  Jupiter  and 
his  satellites  for  the  longitude.     On  the  13th 
some  geese  were  seen,  and  these  birds  are  al- 
ways considered  as  the  harbingers  of  spring. 
On  the  first  of  April  my  hunters  shot  five  of 
them.     This  was  a  much  earlier  period  than 
I  ever  remember  to  have  observed  the  visits 
of  wild  fowl  in  this  part  of  the  world.     The 
weather  had  been  mild  for  the  last  fortnight, 
and  there  was  a  promise  of  its  continuance. 
On  the  5th  the  snow  had  entirely  disappeared. 
At  half  past  four  this  morning  I  was  awak- 
ened to  be  informed  that  an  Indan  had  been 
killed.     I  accordingly  hastened  to  the  camp, 
where  I  found  two  women  employed  in  roll- 
ing up  the  dead  body  of  a  man,  called  the 
White  Partridge,  in  a  beaver  robe,  which  I 
had  lent  him.     He  had  received  four  mortal 
20 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

■wounds  from  a  dagger,  two  within  the  collar 
bone,  one  in  the  left  breast,  and  another  in 
the  small  of  the  back,  with  two  cuts  across 
his  head.  The  murderer,  who  had  been  my 
hunter  throughout  the  winter,  had  fled ;  and 
it  was  pretended  that  several  relations  of  the 
deceased  were  gone  in  pursuit  of  him.  The 
history  of  this  unfortunate  event  is  as  fol- 
lows : — 

These  two  men  had  been  comrades  for  four 
years;  the  murderer  had  three  wives;  and 
the  young  man  who  was  killed,  becoming 
enamoured  of  one  of  them,  the  husband  con- 
sented to  yield  her  to  him,  with  the  reserved 
power  of  claiming  her  as  his  property,  when 
it  should  be  his  pleasure. 

This  connection  was  uninterrupted  for  near 
three  years,  when,  whimsical  as  it  may  appear, 
the  husband  became  jealous,  and  the  public 
amour  was  suspended.  The  parties,  how- 
ever, made  their  private  assignations,  which 
caused  the  woman  to  be  so  ill  treated  by  her 
husband,  that  the  paramour  was  determined 
to  take  her  away  by  force ;  and  this  project 
ended  in  his  death.  This  is  a  very  common 
practice  among  the  Indians,  and  generally 
terminates  in  very  serious  and  fatal  quarrels. 

In  consequence  of  this  event  all  the  In- 
dians went  away  in  great  a^Dparent  hurry  and 
confusion,  and  in  the  evening  not  one  of  them 
was  to  be  seen  about  the  fort. 
21 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

The  Beaver  and  Rocky  Mountain  Indians, 
who  traded  with  us  in  this  river,  did  not  ex- 
ceed an  hundred  and  fifty  men,  capable  of 
bearing  arms ;  two  thirds  of  whom  call  them- 
selves Beaver  Indians.  The  latter  differ  onlj" 
from  the  former,  as  they  have,  more  or  less, 
imbibed  the  customs  and  manners  of  the  Knis- 
teneaux.  As  I  have  already  observed,  they 
are  passionately  fond  of  liquor,  and  in  the 
moments  of  their  festivity  will  barter  any 
thing  they  have  in  their  possession  for  it. 

Though  the  Beaver  Indians  made  their 
peace  with  the  Knisteneaux,  at  Peace  Point, 
as  already  mentioned,  yet  they  did  not  secure 
a  state  of  amity  from  others  of  the  same  na- 
tion, who  had  driven  away  the  natives  of  the 
Saskatchiwine  and  Missinipy  Rivers,  and 
joined  at  the  head  water  of  the  latter,  called 
the  Beaver  River :  from  thence  they  proceeded 
West  by  the  Slave  Lake  just  described,  on 
their  war  excursions,  which  they  often  re- 
peated, even  till  the  Beaver  Indians  had  pro- 
cured arms,  which  was  in  the  year  1782.  If 
it  so  happened  that  they  missed  them,  they 
proceeded  Westward  till  they  were  certain  of 
wreaking  their  vengeance  on  those  of  the 
Eocky  Mountain,  who  being  without  arms,  be- 
came an  easy  prey  to  their  blind  and  savage 
fury.  All  the  European  articles  they  pos- 
sessed, previous  to  the  year  1780,  were  ob' 
tained  from  the  Knisteneaux  and  Chepewyans, 
22 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

who  brought  them  from  Fort  Churchill,  and 
for  which  they  were  made  to  pay  an  extrava- 
gant price. 

As  late  as  the  year  1786,  when  the  first 
traders  from  Canada  arrived  on  the  banks  of 
this  river,  the  natives  employed  bows  and 
snares,  but  at  present  very  little  use  is  made 
of  the  former,  and  the  latter  are  no  longer 
known.  They  still  entertain  a  great  dread  of 
their  natural  enemies,  but  they  are  since  be- 
come so  well  armed,  that  the  others  now  call 
them  their  allies.  The  men  are  in  general  of 
a  comely  appearance,  and  fond  of  personal 
decoration.  The  women  are  of  a  contrary 
disposition,  and  the  slaves  of  the  men:  in 
common  with  all  the  Indian  tribes  polygamy  is 
allowed  among  them.  They  are  very  subject 
to  jealousy,  and  fatal  consequences  frequently 
result  from  the  indulgence  of  that  passion. 
But  notwithstanding  the  vigilance  and  sever- 
ity which  is  exercised  by  the  husband,  it  sel- 
dom happens  that  a  woman  is  without  her  fa- 
vourite, who,  in  the  absence  of  the  husband, 
exacts  the  same  submission,  and  practises  the 
same  tyranny.  And  so  premature  is  the  ten- 
der passion,  that  it  is  sometimes  known  to  in- 
vigorate so  early  a  period  of  life  as  the  age 
of  eleven  or  twelve  years.  The  women  are 
not  very  prolific :  a  circumstance  which  may 
be  attributed  in  a  great  measure,  to  the  hard- 
ships that  they  suffer,  for  except  a  few  small 
23 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

dogs,  they  alone  perform  that  labour  which  is 
allotted  to  beasts  of  burthen  in  other  coun- 
tries. It  is  not  uncommon,  while  the  men 
carry  nothing  but  a  gun,  that  their  wives  and 
daughters  follow  with  such  weighty  burdens, 
that  if  they  lay  them  down  they  cannot  re- 
place them,  and  that  is  a  kindness  which  the 
men  will  not  deign  to  perform ;  so  that  during 
their  journeys  they  are  frequently  obliged  to 
lean  against  a  tree  for  a  small  portion  of  tem- 
porary relief.  When  they  arrive  at  the  place 
which  their  tyrants  have  chosen  for  their  en- 
campment, they  arrange  the  whole  in  a  few 
minutes,  by  forming  a  curve  of  poles,  meet- 
ing at  the  top,  and  expanding  into  circles  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet  diameter  at  the  bottom, 
covered  with  dressed  skins  of  the  moose  sewed 
together.  During  these  preparations,  the  men 
sit  down  quietly  to  the  enjoyment  of  their 
pipes,  if  they  happen  to  have  any  tobacco. 
But  notwithstanding  this  abject  state  of  slav- 
ery and  submission,  the  women  have  a  con- 
siderable influence  on  the  opinion  of  the  men 
in  every  thing  except  their  own  domestic  sit- 
uation. 

These  Indians  are  excellent  hunters,  and 
their  exercise  in  that  capacity  is  so  violent  as 
to  reduce  them  in  general  to  a  very  meagre 
appearance.  Their  religion  is  of  a  very  con- 
tracted nature,  and  I  never  witnessed  any 
ceremony  of  devotion  which  they  had  not 
24 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

borrowed  from  the  Knisteneaux,  their  feasts 
and  fasts  being  in  imitation  of  that  people. 
They  are  more  vicious  and  warlike  than  the 
Chepewyans,  from  whence  they  sprang, 
though  they  do  not  possess  their  selfishness, 
for  while  they  have  the  means  of  purchasing 
their  necessaries,  they  are  liberal  and  gener- 
ous, but  when  those  are  exhausted  they  be- 
come errant  beggars :  they  are,  however,  re- 
markable for  their  honesty,  for  in  the  whole 
tribe  there  were  only  two  women  and  a  man 
who  had  been  known  to  have  swerved  from 
that  virtue,  and  they  were  considered  as  ob- 
jects of  disregard  and  reprobation.  They  are 
afflicted  with  but  few  diseases,  and  their  only 
remedies  consist  in  binding  the  temples,  pro- 
curing perspiration,  singing,  and  blowing  on 
the  sick  person,  or  affected  part.  When 
death  overtakes  any  of  them,  their  property, 
as  I  have  before  observed,  is  sacrificed  and 
destroyed ;  nor  is  there  any  failure  of  lamen- 
tation or  mourning  on  such  occasion:  they 
who  are  more  nearly  related  to  the  departed 
person,  black  their  faces,  and  sometimes  cut 
off  their  hair;  they  also  pierce  their  arms 
with  knives  and  arrows.  The  grief  of  the 
females  is  carried  to  a  still  greater  excess; 
they  not  only  cut  their  hair,  and  cry  and 
howl,  but  they  will  sometimes,  with  the  ut- 
most deliberation,  employ  some  sharp  instru- 
ment to  separate  the  nail  from  the  finger,  and 
25 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

then  force  back  the  flesh  beyond  the  first 
joint,  which  they  immediately  amputate. 
But  this  extraordinary  mark  of  affliction  is 
only  displayed  on  the  death  of  a  favourite 
son,  a  husband,  or  a  father.  Many  of  the  old 
women  have  so  often  repeated  this  ceremony, 
that  they  have  not  a  complete  finger  remain- 
ing on  either  hand.  The  women  renew  their 
lamentations  at  the  graves  of  their  departed 
relatives,  for  a  long  succession  of  years. 
They  appear,  in  common  with  all  the  Indian 
tribes,  to  be  very  fond  of  their  children,  but 
they  are  as  careless  in  their  mode  of  swadling 
them  in  their  infant  state,  as  they  are  of  their 
own  dress :  the  child  is  laid  down  on  a  board, 
of  about  two  feet  long,  covered  with  a  bed  of 
moss,  to  which  it  is  fastened  by  bandages, 
the  moss  being  changed  as  often  as  the  occa- 
sion requires.  The  chief  of  the  nation  had 
no  less  than  nine  wives,  and  children  in  pro- 
portion. 

When  traders  first  appeared  among  these 
people,  the  Canadians  were  treated  with  the 
utmost  hospitality  and  attention;  but  they 
have,  by  their  subsequent  conduct,  taught  the 
natives  to  withdraw  that  respect  from  them, 
and  sometimes  to  treat  them  with  indignity. 
They  differ  very  much  from  the  Chepewyans 
and  Knisteneaux,  in  the  abhorrence  they  pro- 
fess of  any  carnal  communication  between 
their  women  and  the  white  people.  They 
26 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OP  AMERICA. 

carry  their  love  of  gaming  to  excess;  they 
will  pursue  it  for  a  succession  of  days  and 
nights,  and  no  apprehension  of  ruin,  nor  in- 
fluence of  domestic  affection,  will  restrain 
them  from  the  indulgence  of  it.  They  are  a 
quick,  lively,  active  people,  with  a  keen, 
penetrating,  dark  eye;  and  though  they  are 
very  susceptible  of  anger,  are  as  easily  ap- 
peased. The  males  eradicate  their  beards, 
and  the  females  their  hair  in  every  part,  ex- 
cept their  heads,  where  it  is  strong  and  black, 
and  without  a  curl.  There  are  many  old  men 
among  them,  but  they  are  in  general  ignorant 
of  the  space  in  which  they  have  been 
inhabitants  of  the  earth,  though  one  of 
them  told  me  that  he  recollected  sixty 
winters. 

An  Indian  in  some  measure  explained  his 
age  to  me,  by  relating  that  he  remembered 
the  opposite  hills  and  plains,  now  interspersed 
with  groves  of  poplars,  when  they  were  cov- 
ered with  moss,  and  without  any  animal  in- 
habitant but  the  rein-deer.  By  degrees,  he 
said,  the  face  of  the  country  changed  to  its 
p^-esent  appearance,  when  the  elk  came  from 
the  East,  and  was  followed  by  the  buffalo; 
the  rein-deer  then  retired  to  the  long  range 
of  high  lands  that,  at  a  considerable  distance, 
run  parallel,  with  this  river. 

On  the  20th  of  April  I  had  an  observation 
of  Jupiter  and  his  satellites,  for  the  longi- 
27 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

tude,  and  we  were  now  visited  by  our  sum- 
mer companions  the  gnats  and  musquitoes. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  river,  which  was  yet 
covered  with  ice,  the  plains  were  delightful; 
the  trees  were  budding,  and  many  plants  in 
blossom.  Mr.  Mackay  brought  me  a  bunch 
of  flowers  of  a  pink  colour,  and  a  yellow  but- 
ton, encircled  with  six  leaves  of  a  light  pur- 
ple. The  change  in  the  appearance  of  na- 
ture was  as  sudden  as  it  was  pleasing,  for  a 
few  days  only  were  passed  away  since  the 
ground  was  covered  with  snow.  On  the  25th 
the  river  was  cleared  of  the  ice. 

I  now  found  that  the  death  of  the  man 
called  the  White  Partridge,  had  deranged  all 
the  plans  which  I  had  settled  with  the  In- 
dians for  the  spring  huntmg.  They  had  as- 
sembled at  some  distance  from  the  fort,  and 
sent  an  embassy  to  me,  to  demand  rum  to 
drink,  that  they  might  have  an  opportun^'ty 
of  crying  for  their  deceased  brother.  It 
would  be  considered  as  an  extreme  degrada- 
tion in  an  Indian  to  weep  when  sober,  but  a 
state  of  intoxication  sanctions  all  irregulari- 
ties. On  my  refusal,  they  threatened  to  go 
to  war,  which,  from  motives  of  interest  as 
well  as  humanity,  we  did  our  utmost  to  dis- 
courage ;  and  as  a  second  message  was  brought 
by  persons  of  some  weight  among  these  peo- 
ple, and  on  whom  I  could  depend,  I  thought 
it  prudent  to  comply  with  the  demand,  on  an 
2S 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

express  condition,  that  they  would  continue 
peaceably  at  home. 

The  month  of  April  being  now  past,  in  the 
early  part  of  which  I  was  most  busily  em- 
ployed in  trading  with  the  Indians,  I  ordered 
our  old  canoes  to  be  repaired  with  bark,  and 
added  four  new  ones  to  them,  when,  with  the 
furs  and  provisions  I  had  purchased,  six 
canoes  were  loaded  and  dispatched  on  the  8th 
of  May,  for  Fort  Chepewyan.  I  had,  how- 
ever, retained  six  of  the  men,  who  agreed  to 
accompany  me  on  my  projected  voyage  of 
discovery.  I  also  engaged  my  hunters,  and 
closed  the  business  of  the  year  for  the  com- 
pany by  writing  my  public  and  private  dis- 
patches. 

Having  ascertained,  by  various  observa- 
tions, the  latitude  of  this  place  to  be  56.  9. 
North,  and  longitude  117.  35.  15.  West :  on 
the  9th  day  of  May,  I  found,  that  my  aerom- 
eter was  one  hour  forty-six  minutes  slow  to 
apparent  time;  the  mean  going  of  it  I  had 
found  to  be  twenty -two  seconds  slow  in 
twenty-four  hours.  Having  settled  this  point, 
the  canoe  was  put  into  the  water ;  her  dimen- 
sions were  twenty-five  feet  long  within,  ex- 
clusive of  the  curves  of  stem  and  stern, 
twenty-six  inches  hold,  and  four  feet  nine 
inches  beam.  At  the  same  time  she  was  so 
light,  that  two  men  could  carry  her  on  a  good 
road  three  or  four  miles  without  resting.  In 
29 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

this  slender  vessel,  we  shipped  provisions, 
goods  for  presents,  arms,  ammunition,  and 
baggage,  to  the  weight  of  three  thousand 
pounds,  and  an  equipage  of  ten  people ;  viz. 
Alexander  Mackay,  Joseph  Landry,  Charles 
Ducette,"*  Franqois  Beaulieux,  Baptist  Bisson, 
Francois  Courtois,  and  Jaques  Beauchamp, 
with  two  Indians,  as  hunters  and  interpreters. 
One  of  them,  when  a  boy,  used  to  be  so  idle, 
that  he  obtained  the  reputable  name  of  Cancre, 
which  he  still  possesses.  With  these  persons 
I  embarked  at  seven  in  the  evening.  My 
winter  interpreter,  with  another  person,  whom 
I  left  here  to  take  care  of  the  fort,  and  sup- 
ply the  natives  with  ammunition  during  the 
summer,  shed  tears  on  the  reflection  of  those 
dangers  which  we  might  encounter  in  our  ex- 
pedition, while  my  own  people  offered  up 
their  prayers  that  we  might  return  in  safety 
from  it. 

*  Joseph  Landry  and  Charles  Ducette  were  with 
me  in  my  former  voyage. 


30 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 


CHAPTER   II. 

MAY,  1793. 

Thursday,  9. — We  began  our  voyage  with 
a  course  South  by  West  against  a  strong  cur- 
rent one  mile  and  three  quarters,  South-West 
by  South  one  mile,  and  landed  before  eight 
on  an  island  for  the  night. 

Friday,  10. — The  weather  was  clear  and 
pleasant,  though  there  was  a  keenness  in  the 
air ;  and  at  a  quarter  past  three  in  the  morn- 
ing we  continued  our  voyage,  steering  South- 
west three  quarters  of  a  mile,  South-West 
by  South  one  mile  and  a  quarter.  South  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  South-West  by  South  one 
quarter  of  a  mile,  South-West  by  West  one 
mile,  South-West  by  South  three  miles,  South 
by  West  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  and  South- 
West  one  mile.  The  canoe  being  strained 
from  its  having  been  very  heavily  laden,  be- 
came so  leaky,  that  we  were  obliged  to  land, 
unload,  and  gum  it.  As  this  circumstance 
took  place  about  twelve,  I  had  an  opportunity 
of  taking  an  altitude,  which  made  our  lati- 
tude 55.  58.  48. 

When  the  canoe  was  repaired  we  continued 
our  course,  steering  South-West  by  West  one 
mile  and  an  half,  when  I  had  the  misfortune 
31 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

to  drop  my  pocket-compass  into  the  water; 
West   half   a   mile,    West-Soiith-West  four 
miles  and  an  half.    Here,  the  banks  are  steep 
and  hilly,  and  in  some  parts  undermined  by 
the  river.     Where  the  earth  has  given  way, 
the   face   of    the   cliffs   discovers   numerous 
strata,  consisting  of  reddish  earth  and  smaU 
stones,  bitumen,  and  a  greyish  earth,  below 
which,  near  the  water-edge,  is  a  red  stone. 
Water  issues  from  most  of  the  banks,  and  the 
ground  on  which  it  spreads  is  covered  with  a 
thin  white  scurf,  or  particles  of  a  saline  sub- 
stance :  there  are  several  of  these  salt  springs. 
At  half  past  six  in  the  afternoon  the  young 
men  landed,  when  they  killed  an   elk  and 
wounded  a  buffalo.     In  this  spot  we  formed 
our  encampment  for  the  night. 

From  the  place  which  we  quitted  this  morn- 
ing, the  West  side  of  the  river  displayed  a 
succession  of  the  most  beautiful  scenery  I  had 
ever  beheld.     The  ground  rises  at  intervals 
to  a  considerable  height,  and  stretching  in- 
wards to  a  considerable  distance :  at  every  in- 
terval or  pause  in  the  rise,  there  is  a  very 
gently-ascending  space  or  lawn,  which  is  al- 
ternate with  abrupt  precipices  to  the  summit 
of  the  whole,  or,  at  least  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  distinguish.     This  magnificent  theatre 
of  nature  has  all  the  decorations  which  the 
trees  and  animals  of  the  country  can  afford 
it:  groves  of  poplars  in  every  shape  vary  the 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AAIERICA. 

scene ;  and  their  intervals  are  enlivened  with 
vast  herds  of  elks  and  buffaloes :  the  former 
choosing  the  steeps  and  uplands,  and  the  lat- 
ter preferring  the  plains.  At  this  time  the 
buffaloes  were  attended  with  their  young  ones 
who  were  frisking  about  them:  and  it  ap- 
peared that  the  elks  would  soon  exhibit  the 
same  enlivening  circumstance.  The  whole 
country  displayed  an  exuberant  verdure ;  the 
trees  that  bear  a  blossom  were  advancing  fast 
to  that  delightful  appearance,  and  the  velvet 
rind  of  their  branches  reflecting  the  oblique 
rays  of  a  rising  or  setting  sun,  added  a  splen- 
did gaiety  to  the  scene,  which  no  expressions 
of  mine  are  qualified  to  describe.  The  East 
side  of  the  river  consists  of  a  range  of  high 
land  covered  with  the  white  spruce  and  the 
soft  birch,  while  the  banks  abound  with  the 
alder  and  the  willow.  The  water  continued 
to  rise,  and  the  current  being  proportionately 
strong,  we  made  a  greater  use  of  setting 
poles  than  paddles. 

Saturday,  11. — The  weather  was  overcast. 
With  a  strong  wind  a-head,  we  embarked  at 
four  in  the  morning,  and  left  all  the  fresh 
meat  behind  us,  but  the  portion  which  had 
been  assigned  to  the  kettle ;  the  canoe  being 
already  too  heavily  laden.  Our  course  was 
West- South- West  one  mile,  where  a  small 
river  flowed  in  from  the  East,  named  Quisca- 

tina  Sepy,  or  E-iver  with  the  High  Banks; 
Vol.  II.— 3  33 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

West  half  a  mile,  South  half  a  mile,  South- 
West  by  West  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  West 
one  mile  and  a  quarter.  South- West  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  South-South-W^est  hajf  a  mile,  and 
West  by  South  a  mile  and  a  half.  Here  I 
took  a  meridian  altitude,  which  gave  55.  56. 
3.  North  latitude.  We  then  proceeded  West 
three  miles  and  a  half,  West-South- West, 
where  the  whole  plain  was  on  fire,  one  mile, 
West  one  mile,  and  the  wind  so  strong  a-head, 
that  it  occasioned  the  canoe  to  take  in  water, 
and  otherwise  impeded  our  progress.  Here 
we  landed  to  take  time,  with  the  mean  of 
three  altitudes,  which  made  the  watch  slow 
1.  42.  10. 

We  now  proceeded  West-South- West  one 
mile  and  a  quarter,  where  we  found  a  chief 
of  the  Beaver  Indians  on  a  hunting  party.  I 
remained,  however,  in  my  canoe,  and  though 
it  was  getting  late,  I  did  not  choose  to  en- 
camp with  these  people,  lest  the  friends  of 
my  hunters  might  discourage  them  from  pro- 
ceeding on  the  voyage.  We,  therefore,  con- 
tinued our  course,  but  several  Indians  kept 
company  with  us,  running  along  the  bank, 
aad  conversing  with  my  people,  who  were  so 
attentive  to  them,  that  they  drove  the  canoe 
on  a  stony  flat,  so  that  we  were  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  landing  to  repair  the  damages,  and 
put  up  for  the  night,  though  very  contrary  to 
my  wishes.  My  hunters  obtained  permission 
34 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

to  proceed  with  some  of  these  people  to  their 
lodges,  on  the  promise  of  being  back  by  the 
break  of  day ;  though  I  was  not  without  some 
apprehension  respecting  them.  The  chief, 
however,  and  another  man,  as  well  as  several 
people  from  the  lodges,  joined  us,  before  we 
had  completed  the  repair  of  the  canoe ;  and 
they  made  out  a  melancholy  story,  that  they 
had  neither  ammunition  or  tobacco  sufficient 
for  their  necessary  supply  during  the  summer. 
I  accordingly  referred  him  to  the  Fort,  where 
plenty  of  those  articles  were  left  in  the  care 
of  my  interpreter,  by  whom  they  would  be 
abundantly  furnished,  if  they  were  active  and 
industrious  in  pursuing  their  occupations.  I 
did  not  fail,  on  this  occasion,  to  magnify  the 
advantages  of  the  present  expedition ;  observ- 
ing, at  the  same  time,  that  its  success  would 
depend  on  the  fidelity  and  conduct  of  the 
young  men  who  were  retained  by  me  to  hunt. 
The  chief  also  proposed  to  borrow  my  canoe, 
in  order  to  transport  himself  and  family  across 
the  river;  several  plausible  reasons,  it  is 
true,  suggested  themselves  for  resisting  his 
proposition ;  but  when  I  stated  to  him,  that, 
as  the  canoe  was  intended  for  a  voyage  of 
such  consequence,  no  woman  could  be  per- 
mitted to  be  embarked  in  it,  he  acquiesced  in 
the  refusal.  It  was  near  twelve  at  night 
when  he  took  his  leave,  after  I  had  gratified 
him  with  a  present  of  tobacco. 
35 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

Sunday,  12. — Some  of  the  Indians  passed 
the  night  with  us,  and  I  was  informed  by 
them,  that  according  to  our  mode  of  proceed- 
ing, we  should,  in  ten  days,  get  as  far  as  the 
rocky  mountains.  The  young  men  now  re- 
turned, to  my  great  satisfaction,  and  with  the 
appearance  of  contentment ;  though  I  was  not 
pleased  when  they  dressed  themselves  in  the 
clothes  which  I  had  given  them  before  we  left 
the  Tort,  as  it  betrayed  some  latent  design. 

At  four  in  the  morning  we  proceeded  on 
our  voyage,  steering  West  three  miles,  in- 
cluding one  of  our  course  yesterday,  North- 
West  by  North  four  miles,  West  two  miles 
and  a  half.  North- West  by  West  a  mile  and 
a  half.  North  by  East  two  miles.  North- West 
by  West  one  mile,  and  North-North- West 
three  miles.  After  a  continuation  of  our 
course  to  the  North  for  a  mile  and  a  half,  we 
landed  for  the  night  on  an  island  where  sev- 
eral of  the  Indians  visited  us,  but  unattended 
by  their  women,  who  remained  in  their  camp, 
which  was  at  some  distance  from  us. 

The  land  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  during 
the  two  last  days,  is  very  much  elevated,  but 
particularly  in  the  latter  part  of  it,  and,  on 
the  Western  side,  presents  in  different  places, 
white,  steep,  and  lofty  cliffs.  Our  view  being 
confined  by  these  circumstances,  we  did  not 
see  so  many  animals  as  on  the  10th.  Between 
these  lofty  boundaries,  the  river  becomes  nar- 
36 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AlVIERICA. 

row,  and  in  a  great  measure  free  from  islands ; 
for  we  had  passed  only  four :  the  stream,  in- 
deed, was  not  more  than  from  two  hundred 
to  three  hundred  yards  broad;  whereas  be- 
fore these  cliffs  pressed  upon  it,  its  breadth 
was  twice  that  extent  and  besprinkled  with 
islands.  We  killed  an  elk,  and  fired  several 
shots  at  animals  from  the  canoe. 

The  greater  part  of  this  band  bemg  Eocky 
Mountain  Indians,  I  endeavoured  to  obtain 
some  intelligence  of  our  intended  route,  but 
they  all  pleaded  ignorance,  and  uniformly 
declared,  that  they  knew  nothing  of  the  coun- 
try beyond  the  first  mountain :  at  the  same 
time  they  were  of  opinion,  that,  from  the 
strength  of  the  current  and  the  rapids  we 
should  not  get  there  by  water ;  though  they 
did  not  hesitate  to  express  their  surprise  at 
the  expedition  we  had  already  made. 

I  inquired,  with  some  anxiety,  after  an  old 
man  who  had  already  given  me  an  account  of 
the  country  beyond  the  limits  of  his  tribe, 
and  was  very  much  disappointed  at  being  in- 
formed, that  he  had  not  been  seen  for  up- 
wards of  a  moon.  This  man  had  been  at  war 
on  another  large  river  beyond  the  Eocky 
Mountain,  and  described  to  me  a  fork  of  it 
between  the  mountains ;  the  Southern  branch 
of  which  he  directed  me  to  take ;  from  thence, 
he  said,  there  was  a  carrying -place  of  about 
a  day's  march  for  a  young  man  to  get  to  the 
37 

1  n  ^.  'I  ^i  Q 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

river.  To  prove  tlie  truth  of  his  relation,  he 
consented,  that  his  son,  who  had  been  with 
him  in  those  parts,  should  accompany  me; 
and  he  accordingly  sent  him  to  the  fort  some 
days  before  my  departure ;  but  the  preceding 
night  he  deserted  with  another  young  man, 
whose  application  to  attend  me  as  a  hunter, 
being  refused,  he  persuaded  the  other  to  leave 
me.  I  now  thought  it  right  to  repeat  to 
them  what  I  had  said  to  the  chief  of  the  first 
band,  respecting  the  advantages  which  would 
be  derived  from  the  voyage,  that  the  young 
men  might  be  encouraged  to  remain  with  me ; 
as  without  them  I  should  not  have  attempted 
to  proceed. 

3Ionday,  IS. — The  first  object  that  pre- 
sented itself  to  me  this  morning  was  the  young 
man  whom  I  have  already  mentioned,  as  hav- 
ing seduced  away  my  intended  guide.  At 
any  other  time  or  place,  I  should  have  chas- 
tised him  for  his  past  conduct,  but  in  my  sit- 
uation it  was  necessary  to  pass  over  his  of- 
fence, lest  he  should  endeavour  to  exercise 
the  same  influence  over  those  who  were  so  es- 
sential to  my  service.  Of  the  deserted  he 
gave  no  satisfactory  account,  but  continued  to 
express  his  wish  to  attend  me  in  his  place, 
for  which  he  did  not  possess  any  necessary 
qualifications. 

The  weather  was  cloudy,  with  an  appear- 
ance of  rain;  and  the  Indians  pressed  me 
38 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AlVIERICA. 

with  great  earnestness  to  pass  the  day  with 
them,  and  hoped  to  prolong  my  stay  among 
them  by  assuring  me  that  the  winter  yet  lin- 
gered in  the  rocky  mountains ;  but  my  object 
was  to  lose  no  time,  and  having  given  the 
chief  some  tobacco  for  a  small  quantity  of 
meat,  we  embarked  at  four,  when  my  young 
men  could  not  conceal  their  chagrin  at  part- 
ing with  their  friends,  for  so  long  a  period  as 
the  voyage  threatened  to  occupy.  When  I 
had  assured  them  that  in  three  moons  we 
should  return  to  them,  we  proceeded  on  our 
course  West-North- West  half  a  mile,  West- 
South- West  one  mile  and  a  half.  West  by 
North  three  miles,  North-West  by  West  two 
miles  and  a  half.  South- West  by  West  half  a 
mile,  South-South-West  a  mile  and  a  half, 
and  South-West  a  mile  and  a  half.  Here  I 
had  a  meridian  altitude,  which  gave  56.  17. 
44.  North  latitude. 

The  last  course  continued  a  mile  and  a  half, 
South  by  West,  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
South-West  by  South  three  miles  and  a  half, 
and  West-South- West  two  miles  and  a  half. 
Here  the  land  lowered  on  both  sides,  with  an 
increase  of  wood,  and  displayed  great  num- 
bers of  animals.  The  river  also  widened  from 
three  to  five  hundred  yards,  and  was  full  of 
islands  and  flats.  Having  continued  our 
course  three  miles,  we  made  for  the  shore  at 
seven,  to  pass  the  night. 
39 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

At  the  place  from  whence  we  proceeded  this 
morning,  a  river  falls  in  from  the  North; 
there  are  also  several  islands,  and  many  riv- 
ulets on  either  side,  which  are  too  small  to 
deserve  particular  notice.  We  perceived  along 
the  river,  tracks  of  large  bears,  some  of 
which  were  nine  inches  wide,  and  of  a  pro- 
portionate length.  We  saw  one  of  their  dens, 
or  winter-quarters,  called  watee,  in  an  island, 
which  was  ten  feet  deep,  five  feet  high,  and 
six  feet  wide ;  but  we  had  not  yet  seen  one  of 
those  animals.  The  Indians  entertain  great 
apprehension  of  this  kind  of  bear,  which  is 
called  the  grisly  bear,  and  they  never  ven- 
ture to  attack  it  but  in  a  party  of  at  least 
three  or  four.  Our  hunters,  though  they  had 
been  much  higher  than  this  part  of  our  voyage, 
by  land,  knew  nothing  of  the  river.  One  of 
them  mentioned,  that  having  been  engaged  in 
a  war  expedition,  his  party  on  their  return 
made  their  canoes  at  some  distance  below  us. 
The  wind  was  North  throughout  the  day,  and 
at  times  blew  with  considerable  violence. 

The  apprehensions  which  I  had  felt  respect- 
ing the  3^oung  men  were  not  altogether  ground- 
less, for  the  eldest  of  them  told  me  that  his 
uncle  had  last  night  addressed  him  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner : — "  My  nephew,  your  depart- 
ure makes  my  heart  painful.  The  white  peo- 
ple may  be  said  to  rob  us  of  you.  They  are 
about  to  conduct  you  into  the  midst  of  our 
40 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

enemies,  and  you  may  never  more  return  to 
us.  Were  you  not  with  the  Chief, ^  I  know 
not  what  I  should  do,  but  he  requires  your 
attendance,  and  you  must  follow  him." 

Tuesday  J  14- — The  weather  was  clear,  and 
the  air  sharp,  when  we  embarked  at  half  past 
four.  Our  course  was  South  by  West  one 
mile  and  a  half.  South- West  by  South  half  a 
mile.  South- West. 

We  here  found  it  necessary  to  unload,  and 
gum  the  canoe,  in  which  operation  we  lost  an 
hour ;  when  we  proceeded  on  the  last  course 
one  mile  and  a  half.  I  now  took  a  meridian 
altitude,  which  gave  56.  1.  19.  North  latitude, 
and  continued  to  proceed  West-South- West 
two  miles  and  a  half.  Here  the  Bear  River 
which  is  of  a  large  appearance,  falls  in  from 
the  East;  West  three  miles  and  an  half, 
South- South- West  one  mile  and  an  half,  and 
South- West  four  miles  and  an  half,  when  we 
encamped  upon  an  island  about  seven  in  the 
evening. 

During  the  early  part  of  the  day,  the  cur- 
rent was  not  so  strong  as  we  had  generally 
found  it,  but  towards  the  evening  it  became 
very  rapid,  and  was  broken  by  numerous 
islands.  We  were  gratified  as  usual,  with 
the  sight  of  animals.    The  land  on  the  West 

*  These  people,  as  well  as  all  the  natives  on  this 
side  of  Lake  Winipic,  give  tlie  mercantile  agent  that 
distinguished  appellation. 
41 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

side  is  very  irregular,  but  has  the  appearance 
of  being  a  good  beaver  country;  indeed  we 
saw  some  of  those  animals  in  the  river.  Wood 
is  in  great  plenty,  and  several  rivulets  added 
their  streams  to  the  main  river.  A  goose  was 
the  only  article  of  provision  which  we  pro- 
cured to-day.  Smoke  was  seen,  but  at  a  great 
distance  before  us. 

Wednesday  J  15. — The  rain  prevented  us 
from  continuing  our  route  till  past  six  in  the 
morning,  when  our  course  was  South- West  by 
West  three  quarters  of  a  mile ;  at  which  time 
we  passed  a  river  on  the  left.  West  by  South 
two  miles  and  a  half.  The  bank  was  steep, 
and  the  current  strong.  The  last  course  con- 
tinued one  mile  and  a  half,  West-South-West 
two  miles,  where  a  river  flowed  in  from  the 
right.  West  by  South  one  mile  and  a  half, 
West-North- West  one  mile,  and  West  by 
North  two  miles.  Here  the  land  takes  the 
form  of  an  high  ridge,  and  cut  our  course, 
which  was  West  for  three  miles,  at  right 
angles.  We  now  completed  the  voyage  of 
this  day. 

In  the  preceding  night  the  water  rose  up- 
wards of  two  inches,  and  had  risen  in  this 
proportion  since  our  departure.  The  wind, 
which  was  West-South-West,  blew  very  hard 
throughout  the  day,  and  with  the  strength  of 
the  current,  greatly  impeded  our  progress. 
The  river,  in  this  part  of  it,  is  full  of  islands  j 
42 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

and  the  land,  on  the  South  or  left  side,  is 
thick  with  wood.  Several  rivulets  also  fall 
in  from  that  quarter.  At  the  entrance  of  the 
last  river  which  we  passed,  there  was  a  quan- 
tity of  wood,  which  had  been  cut  down  by 
axes,  and  some  by  the  beaver.  This  fall, 
however,  was  not  made,  in  the  opinion  of  my 
people,  by  any  of  the  Indians  with  whom  we 
were  acquainted. 

The  land  to  the  right  is  of  a  very  irregular 
elevation  and  appearance,  composed  in  some 
places  of  clay,  and  rocky  cliffs,  and  others 
exhibiting  stratas  of  red,  green,  and  yellow 
colours.  Some  parts,  indeed,  offer  a  beauti- 
ful scenery,  in  some  degree  similar  to  that 
which  we  passed  on  the  second  day  of  our 
voyage,  and  equally  enlivened  with  the  elk 
and  the  buffalo,  who  were  feeding  in  great 
numbers,  and  unmolested  by  the  hunter.  In 
an  island  which  we  passed,  there  was  a  large 
quantity  of  white  birch,  whose  bark  might  be 
employed  in  the  construction  of  canoes. 

Thursday^  16. — The  weather  being  clear, 
we  re-embarked  at  four  in  the  morning,  and 
proceeded  West  by  North  three  miles.  Here 
the  land  again  appeared  as  if  it  run  across 
our  course,  and  a  considerable  river  discharged 
itself  by  various  streams.  According  to  the 
Eocky  Mountain  Indian,  it  is  called  the  Sinew 
River.  This  spot  would  be  an  excellent  situ- 
ation for  a  fort  or  factory,  as  there  is  plenty 
43 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

of  wood,  and  every  reason  to  believe  that  tlie 
country  abounds  in  beaver.  As  for  the  other 
animals,  they  are  in  evident  abundance,  as  in 
every  direction  the  elk  and  the  buffalo  are 
seen  in  possession  of  the  hills  and  the  plains. 
Our  course  continued  West-North- West  three 
miles  and  a  half.  North- West  one  mile  and  a 
half,  South-West  by  West  two  miles;  (the 
latitude  was  by  observation  56.  16.  54.) 
North,  West  by  North  half  a  mile,  West- 
North- West  three  quarters  of  a  mile ;  a  small 
river  appearing  on  the  right,  North- West  one 
mile  and  a  half.  West  by  North  half  a  mile, 
West  by  South  one  mile  and  a  half.  West  one 
mile ;  and  at  seven  we  formed  our  encamp- 
ment. 

Mr.  Mackay,  and  one  of  the  young  men, 
killed  two  elks,  and  mortally  wounded  a  buf- 
falo, but  we  only  took  a  part  of  the  flesh  of 
the  former.  The  land  above  the  spot  where 
"we  encamped,  spreads  into  an  extensive  plain, 
and  stretches  on  to  a  very  high  ridge,  which, 
in  some  parts,  presents  a  face  of  rock,  but  is 
principally  covered  with  verdure,  and  varied 
with  the  poplar  and  white  birch  tree.  The 
country  is  so  crowded  with  animals  as  to  have 
the  appearance,  in  some  places,  of  a  stall- 
yard,  from  the  state  of  the  ground,  and  the 
quantity  of  dung  which  is  scattered  over  it. 
The  soil  is  black  and  light.  We  this  day  saw 
two  grisly  and  hideous  bears. 
44 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AIMERICA. 

Friday,  17. — It  froze  during  the  night,  and 
the  air  was  sharp  in  the  morning,  when  we 
continued  our  course  West-North-West  three 
miles  and  a  half,  South- West  by  South  two 
miles  and  a  half,  South-West  by  West  one 
mile  and  a  half,  West  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  West-South- West  one  mile  and  a  quar- 
ter, and  South-West  by  South  one  mile  and  a 
half.  At  two  in  the  afternoon  the  rocky 
mountains  appeared  in  sight,  with  their  sum- 
mits covered  with  snow,  bearing  South-West 
by  South :  they  formed  a  very  agreeable  ob- 
ject to  every  person  in  the  canoe,  as  we  at- 
tained the  view  of  them  much  sooner  than  we 
expected.  A  small  river  was  seen  on  our 
right,  and  we  continued  our  progress  South- 
West  by  South  six  miles,  when  we  landed  at 
seven,  which  was  our  usual  hour  of  encamp- 
ment. 

Mr.  Mackay,  who  was  walking  along  the 
side  of  the  river,  discharged  his  piece  at  a 
buffalo,  when  it  burst  near  the  muzzle,  but 
without  any  mischievous  consequences.  On 
the  high  grounds,  which  were  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  we  saw  a  buffalo  tearing  up 
and  down  with  great  fury,  but  could  not  dis- 
cern the  cause  of  his  impetuous  motions ;  my 
hunters  conjectured  that  he  had  been  wounded 
with  an  arrow  by  some  of  the  natives.  We 
ascended  several  rapids  in  the  course  of  the 
day,  and  saw  one  bear. 
45 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

Saturday y  18. — It  again  froze  very  hard 
during  the  night,  and  at  four  in  the  morning 
we  continued  our  voyage,  but  we  had  not  pro- 
ceeded two  hundred  yards,  before  an  accident 
happened  to  the  canoe,  which  did  not,  how- 
ever, employ  more  than  three  quarters  of  an 
hour  to  complete  the  repair.  We  then  steered 
South  by  "West  one  mile  and  three  quarters, 
South-West  by  South  three  miles,  South-West 
by  West  one  mile  and  a  quarter.  West  by 
South  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  South-West 
half  a  mile,  West  by  South  one  mile.  South 
by  West  one  mile  and  a  half.  South- South- 
West,  where  there  is  a  small  run  of  water  from 
the  right,  three  miles  and  a  half,  when  the 
canoe  struck  on  the  stump  of  a  tree,  and  un- 
fortunately where  the  banks  were  so  steep 
that  there  was  no  place  to  unload,  except  a 
small  spot,  on  which  we  contrived  to  dispose 
the  lading  in  the  bow,  which  lightened  the 
canoe  so  as  to  raise  the  broken  part  of  it 
above  the  surface  of  the  water ;  by  which  con- 
trivance we  reached  a  convenient  situation. 
It  required,  however,  two  hours  to  complete 
the  rej)air,  when  the  weather  became  dark 
and  cloudy,  with  thunder,  lightning,  and  rain ; 
we,  however,  continued  the  last  course  half  a 
mile,  and  at  six  in  the  evening  we  were  com- 
pelled by  the  rain  to  land  for  the  night. 

About  noon  we  had  landed  on  an  island 
where  there  were  eight  lodges  of  last  year. 
4.6 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

The  natives  had  prepared  bark  here  for  five 
canoes,  and  there  is  a  road  along  the  hills 
where  they  had  passed.  Branches  were  cut 
and  broken  along  it;  and  they  had  also 
stripped  off  the  bark  of  the  trees,  to  get  the 
interior  rind,  which  forms  part  of  their  food. 

The  current  was  very  strong  through  the 
whole  of  the  day,  and  the  coming  up  along 
some  of  the  banks  was  rendered  very  danger- 
ous, from  the  continual  falling  of  large 
stones,  from  the  upper  parts  of  them.  This 
place  appears  to  be  a  particular  pass  for 
animals  across  the  river,  as  there  are  paths 
leading  to  it  on  both  sides,  every  ten 
yards. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  we  saw  a  ground 
hog,  and  two  cormorants.  The  earth  also 
appeared  in  several  places  to  have  been  turned 
up  by  the  bears,  in  search  of  roots. 

Sunday,  19. — It  rained  very  hard  in  the 
early  part  of  the  night,  but  the  weather  be- 
came clear  towards  the  morning,  when  we 
embarked  at  our  usual  hour.  As  the  current 
threatened  to  be  very  strong,  Mr.  Mackay, 
the  two  hunters,  and  myself,  went  on  shore, 
in  order  to  lighten  the  canoe,  and  ascended 
the  hills,  which  are  covered  with  cypress,  and 
but  little  encumbered  with  underwood.  We 
found  a  beaten  path,  and  before  we  had 
walked  a  mile,  fell  in  with  a  herd  of  buf- 
faloes, with  their  young  ones:  but  I  would 
47 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

not  suffer  the  Indians  to  fire  on  them,  from  an 
apprehension  that  the  report  of  their  fowling 
pieces  would  alarm  the  natives  that  might  be 
in  the  neighbourhood;  for  we  were  at  this 
time  so  near  the  mountains,  as  to  justify  our 
expectation  of  seeing  some  of  them.  We, 
however,  sent  our  dog  after  the  herd,  and  a 
caK  was  soon  secured  by  him.  "While  the 
young  men  were  skinning  the  animal,  we 
heard  two  reports  of  fire  arms  from  the  canoe, 
which  we  answered,  as  it  was  a  signal  for  my 
return;  we  then  heard  another,  and  imme- 
diately hastened  down  the  hill,  with  our  veal, 
through  a  very  close  wood.  There  we  met 
one  of  the  men,  who  informed  us  that  the 
canoe  was  at  a  small  distance  below,  at  the 
foot  of  a  very  strong  rapid,  and  that  as  sev- 
eral waterfalls  appeared  up  the  river,  we 
should  be  obliged  to  unload  and  carry.  I  ac- 
cordingly hastened  to  the  canoe,  and  was 
greatly  displeased  that  so  much  time  had  been 
lost,  as  I  had  given  previous  directions  that 
the  river  should  be  followed  as  long  as  it  was 
practicable.  The  last  Indians  whom  we  saw 
had  informed  us  that  at  the  first  mountain 
there  was  a  considerable  succession  of  rapids, 
cascades,  and  falls,  which  they  never  at- 
tempted to  ascend;  and  where  they  always 
passed  over  land  the  length  of  a  day's  march. 
My  men  imagined  that  the  carrying  })lace  was 
at  a  small  distance  below  us,  as  a  path  ap- 
48 


KORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

peared  to  ascend  a  hill,  where  there  were  sev- 
eral  lodges,  of  the  last  year's  construction. 
The  account  which  had  been  given  me  of  the 
rapids,  was  perfectly  correct:  though  by 
crossmg  to  the  other  side,  I  must  acknowl- 
edge with  some  risk,  in  such  a  heavy  laden 
canoe,  the  river  appeared  to  me  to  be  practi- 
cable, as  far  as  we  could  see :  the  traverse, 
therefore,  was  attempted,  and  proved  success- 
ful. We  now  towed  the  canoe  along  an  island, 
and  proceeded  without  any  considerable  diffi- 
culty, till  we  reached  the  extremity  of  it, 
when  the  line  could  be  no  longer  employed ; 
and  in  endeavouring  to  clear  the  point  of  the 
island,  the  canoe  was  driven  with  such  vio- 
lence on  a  stony  shore,  as  to  receive  consider- 
able injury.  We  now  employed  every  exertion 
in  our  power  to  re  j)air  the  breach  that  had  been 
made,  as  well  as  to  dry  such  articles  of  our 
loading  as  more  immediately  required  it :  we 
then  transported  the  whole  across  the  point, 
when  we  reloaded,  and  continued  our  course 
about  three  quarters  of  a  mile.  We  could  now 
proceed  no  further  on  this  side  of  the  water, 
and  the  traverse  was  rendered  extremely  dan- 
gerous, not  only  from  the  strength  of  the 
current,  but  by  the  cascades  just  below  us, 
which,  if  we  had  got  among  them,  would  have 
involved  us  and  the  canoe  in  one  common  de- 
struction. We  had  no  other  alternative  than 
to  return  by  the  same  course  we  came,  or  to 
Vol.  II.— 4  49 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

hazard  tlie  traverse,  tlie  river  on  this  side 
being  bounded  by  a  range  of  steep,  over-hang- 
ing rocks,  beneath  which  the  current  was 
driven  on  with  resistless  impetuosity  from 
the  cascades.  Here  are  several  islands  of 
solid  rock,  covered  with  a  small  portion  of 
verdure,  which  have  been  worn  away  by  the 
constant  force  of  the  current,  and  occasion- 
ally, as  I  presume,  of  ice,  at  the  water's  edge, 
so  as  to  be  reduced  in  that  part  to  one  fourth 
the  extent  of  the  upper  surface ;  presenting, 
as  it  were,  so  many  large  tables,  each  of 
which  was  supported  by  a  pedestal  of  a  more 
circumscribed  projection.  They  are  very  ele- 
vated for  such  a  situation,  and  afford  an  asy- 
lum for  geese,  which  were  at  this  time  breed- 
ing on  them.  By  crossing  from  one  to  the 
other  of  these  islands,  we  came  at  length  to 
the  main  traverse,  on  which  we  ventured,  and 
were  successful  in  our  passage.  Mr.  Mackay, 
and  the  Indians,  who  observed  our  manoeuvres 
from  the  top  of  a  rock,  were  in  continual 
alarm  for  our  safety,  with  which  their  own, 
indeed,  may  be  said  to  have  been  nearly  con- 
nected :  however,  the  dangers  that  we  encoun- 
tered were  very  much  augmented  by  the  heavy 
loading  of  the  canoe. 

When  we  had  effected  our  passage,  the  cur- 
rent on  the  West  side  was  almost  equally  vio- 
lent  with   that   from   whence  we   had   just 
escaped,  but  the  craggy  bank  being  somewhat 
50 


NORTH-WEST   CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

lower,  we  were  enabled,  with  a  line  of  sixty 
fathoms,  to  tow  the  canoe,  till  we  came  to  the 
foot  of  the  most  rapid  cascade  we  had  hith- 
erto seen.  Here  we  unloaded,  and  carried 
every  thing  over  a  rocky  point  of  an  hundred 
and  twenty  paces.  When  the  canoe  was  re- 
loaded, I,  with  those  of  my  people  who 
were  not  immediately  employed,  ascended  the 
bank,  which  was  there,  and  indeed,  as  far  as 
we  could  see,  composed  of  clay,  stone,  and  a 
yellow  gravel.  My  present  situation  was  so 
elevated,  that  the  men,  who  were  coming  up 
a  strong  point,  could  not  hear  me,  though  I 
called  to  them  with  the  utmost  strength  of 
my  voice,  to  lighten  the  canoe  of  part  of  its 
lading.  And  here  I  could  not  but  reflect, 
with  infinite  anxiety,  on  the  hazard  of  my 
enterprize ;  one  false  step  of  those  who  were 
attached  to  the  line,  or  the  breaking  of  tl| 
line  itself,  would  have  at  once  consigned  tb 
canoe,  and  every  thing  it  contained,  to  in- 
stant destruction  :  it,  however,  ascended  the 
rapid  in  perfect  security,  but  new  dangers  im- 
mediately presented  themselves,  for  stones, 
both  small  and  great,  were  continually  rolling 
from  the  bank,  so  as  to  render  the  situation 
of  those  who  were  dragging  the  canoe  beneath 
it  extremely  perilous ;  besides,  they  were  at 
every  step  in  danger,  from  the  steepness  of 
the  ground,  of  falling  into  the  water:  nor 
was  my  solicitude  diminished  by  my  being 
51 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

necessarily  removed  at  times  from  the  sight 
of  them. 

In  our  passage  through  the  woods,  we  came 
to  an  inclosure,  which  had  been  formed  by 
the  natives  for  the  purpose  of  setting  snares 
for  the  elk,  and  of  which  we  could  not  discover 
the  extent.  After  we  had  travelled  for  some 
hours  through  the  forest,  which  consisted  of 
the  spruce,  birch,  and  the  largest  poplars  I 
had  ever  seen,  we  sunk  down  upon  the  river 
where  the  bank  is  low,  and  near  the  foot  of  a 
mountain ;  between  which,  and  a  high  ridge, 
the  river  flows  in  a  channel  of  about  one  hun- 
dred yards  broad;  though,  at  a  small  distance 
below,  it  rushes  on  between  perpendicular 
rocks,  where  it  is  not  much  more  than  half 
that  breadth.  Here  I  remained,  in  great  anx- 
iety, expecting  the  arrival  of  the  canoe,  and 
after  some  time  I  sent  Mr.  Mackay  with  one 
of  the  Indians  down  the  river  in  search  of  it, 
and  with  the  other  I  went  up  to  it  to  examine 
what  we  might  expect  in  that  quarter.  In 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  I  came  to  a  part 
where  the  river  washes  the  feet  of  lofty  preci- 
pices, and  presented,  in  the  form  of  rapids 
and  cascades,  a  succession  of  difficulties  to 
our  navigation.  As  the  canoe  did  not  come 
in  sight,  we  returned,  and  from  the  x^lace 
where  I  had  separated  with  Mr.  Mackay,  we 
saw  the  men  carrying  it  over  a  small  rocky 
point.  We  met  them  at  the  entrance  of  the 
52 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AJ^IERICA. 

narrow  channel  already  mentioned;  theii 
difficulties  had  been  great  indeed,  and  the 
canoe  had  been  broken,  but  they  had  perse- 
vered with  success,  and  having  passed  the 
carrying-place,  we  proceeded  with  the  line  as 
far  as  I  had  already  been,  when  we  crossed 
over  and  encamped  on  the  opposite  beach; 
but  there  was  no  wood  on  this  side  of  the 
water,  as  the  adjacent  country  had  been  en- 
tirely over-run  by  fire.  We  saw  several  elks 
feeding  on  the  edge  of  the  opposite  precipice, 
which  was  upwards  of  three  hundred  feet 
high. 

Our  course  to-day  was  about  South-South- 
West  two  miles  and  a  half,  South-West  half 
a  mile,  South-West  by  South  one  mile  and  a 
half.  South  by  West  half  a  mile,  South-West 
half  a  mile,  and  West  one  mile  and  a  half. 
There  was  a  shower  of  hail,  and  some  rain 
from  flying  clouds.  I  now  dispatched  a  man 
with  an  Indian  to  visit  the  rapids  above,  when 
the  latter  soon  left  him  to  pursue  a  beaver, 
which  was  seen  in  the  shallow  water  on  the 
inside  of  a  stony  island;  and  though  Mr. 
Mackay,  and  the  other  Indian  joined  him, 
the  animal  at  length  escaped  from  their  pur- 
suit. Several  others  were  seen  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  which  I  by  no  means  expected, 
as  the  banks  are  almost  every  where  so  much 
elevated  above  the  channel  of  the  river.  Just 
as  the  obscurity  of  the  night  drew  on,  the 
53 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

man  returned  with  an  account  that  it  would 
be  impracticable  to  pass  several  points,  as 
well  as  the  super-impending  promontories. 

Monday,  20. — The  weather  was  clear  with 
a  sharp  air,  and  we  renewed  our  voyage  at  ^ 
quarter  past  four,  on  a  course  South- West  by 
West  three  quarters  of  a  mile.  We  now, 
with  infinite  dfficulty  passed  along  the  foot  of 
a  rock,  which,  fortunately,  was  not  an  hard 
stone,  so  that  we  were  enabled  to  cut  steps  in 
it  for  the  distance  of  twenty  feet ;  from  which, 
at  the  hazard  of  my  life,  I  leaped  on  a  small 
rock  below,  where  I  received  those  who  fol- 
lowed me  on  my  shoulders.  In  this  manner 
four  of  us  passed  and  dragged  up  the  canoe, 
in  which  attempt  we  broke  her.  Very  luckily, 
a  dry  tree  had  fallen  from  the  rock  above  us, 
without  which  we  could  not  have  made  a  fire, 
as  no  wood  was  to  be  procured  within  a  mile 
of  the  place.  When  the  canoe  was  repaired, 
we  continued  towing  it  along  the  rocks  to  the 
next  point,  when  we  embarked,  as  we  could 
not  at  present  make  any  further  use  of  the 
line,  but  got  along  the  rocks  of  a  round  high 
island  of  stone,  till  we  came  to  a  small  sandy 
bay.  As  we  had  already  damaged  the  canoe, 
and  had  every  reason  to  think  that  she  soon 
would  risk  much  greater  injury,  it  became 
necessary  for  us  to  supply  ourselves  with 
bark,  as  our  provision  of  that  material  article 
was  almost  exhausted ;  two  men  were  accord- 
54 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

ingly  sent  to  procure  it,  who  soon  returned 
with  the  necessary  store. 

Mr.  Mackay,  and  the  Indians  who  had  been 
on  shore,  since  we  broke  the  canoe,  were  pre- 
vented from  coming  to  us  by  the  rugged  and 
impassable  state  of  the  ground.  We,  there- 
fore, again  resumed  our  course  with  the  as- 
sistance of  poles,  with  which  we  pushed  on- 
wards till  we  came  beneath  a  precipice,  where 
we  could  not  find  any  bottom;  so  that  we 
were  again  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  the 
line,  the  management  of  which  was  rendered 
not  only  difficult  but  dangerous,  as  the  men 
employed  in  towing  were  under  the  necessity 
of  passing  on  the  outside  of  trees  that  grew 
on  the  edge  of  the  precipice.  We,  however, 
surmounted  this  difficulty,  as  we  had  done 
many  others,  and  the  people  who  had  been 
walking  over  land  now  joined  us.  They  also 
had  met  with  their  obstacles  in  passing  the 
mountain. 

It  now  became  necessary  for  us  to  make  a 
traverse,  where  the  water  was  so  rapid,  that 
some  of  the  people  stripped  themselves  to 
their  shirts  that  they  might  be  the  better  pre- 
pared for  swimming,  in  case  any  accident 
happened  to  the  canoe,  which  they  seriously 
apprehended;  but  we  succeeded  in  our  at- 
tempt without  any  other  inconvenience,  ex- 
cept that  of  taking  in  water.  We  now  came 
to  a  cascade,  when  it  was  thought  necessary 
55 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

to  take  out  part  of  tlie  lading.  At  noon  we 
stopped  to  take  an  altitude,  opposite  to  a 
small  river  that  flowed  in  from  the  left: 
while  I  was  thus  engaged,  the  men  went  on 
shore  to  fasten  the  canoe,  but  as  the  current 
was  not  very  strong,  they  had  been  negligent 
in  performing  this  office ;  it  proved,  however, 
sufficiently  powerful  to  sheer  her  off,  and  if  it 
had  not  happened  that  one  of  the  men,  from 
absolute  fatigue  had  remained  and  held  the 
end  of  the  line,  we  should  have  been  deprived 
of  every  means  of  prosecuting  our  voyage,  as 
well  as  of  present  subsistence.  But  notwith- 
standing the  state  of  my  mind  on  such  an 
alarming  circumstance,  and  an  intervening 
cloud  that  interrupted  me,  the  altitude  which 
I  took  has  been  since  proved  to  be  tolerably 
correct,  and  gave  56.  North  latitude.  Our 
last  course  was  South- South- West  two  miles 
and  a  quarter. 

We  now  continued  our  toilsome  and  peril- 
ous progress  with  the  line  West  by  North, 
and  as  we  proceeded  the  rapidity  of  the  cur- 
rent increased,  so  that  in  the  distance  of  two 
miles  we  were  obliged  to  unload  four  times, 
and  carry  every  thing  but  the  canoe :  indeed, 
in  many  places,  it  was  with  the  utmost  diffi- 
culty that  we  could  prevent  her  from  being 
lashed  to  pieces  against  the  rocks  by  the  vio- 
lence of  the  eddies.  At  five  we  had  proceeded 
to  where  the  river  was  one  continued  rapid. 
56 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  A:MERICA. 

Here  we  again  took  every  thing  out  of  the 
canoe,  in  order  to  tow  her  up  with  the  line, 
though  the  rocks  were  so  shelving  as  greatly 
to  increase  the  toil  and  hazard  of  that  opera- 
tion. At  length,  however,  the  agitation  of 
the  water  was  so  great,  that  a  wave  striking 
on  the  bow  of  the  canoe  broke  the  line,  and 
filled  us  with  inexpressible  dismay,  as  it  ap- 
peared impossible  that  the  vessel  could  escape 
from  being  dashed  to  pieces,  and  those  who 
were  in  her  from  perishing.  Another  wave, 
however,  more  propitious  than  the  former, 
drove  her  out  of  the  tumbling  water,  so  that 
the  men  were  enabled  to  bring  her  ashore,  and 
though  she  had  been  carried  over  rocks  by 
these  swells  which  left  them  naked  a  moment 
after,  the  canoe  had  received  no  material  in- 
jury. The  men  were,  however,  in  such  a 
state  from  their  late  alarm,  that  it  would  not 
only  have  been  unavailing  but  imprudent  to 
have  proposed  any  further  progress  at  pres- 
ent, particularly  as  the  river  above  us,  as  far 
as  we  could  see,  was  one  white  sheet  of  foam- 
ing water. 


67 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 


CHAPTER    III. 

MAY,  1793. 

That  the  discouragements,  difficulties,  and 
dangers,  which  had  hitherto  attended  the 
progress  of  our  enterprise,  should  have  ex- 
cited a  wish  in  several  of  those  who  were  en- 
gaged in  it  to  discontinue  the  pursuit,  might 
be  naturally  expected ;  and  indeed  it  began 
to  be  muttered  on  all  sides  that  there  was  no 
alternative  but  to  return. 

Instead  of  paying  any  attention  to  these 
murmurs,  I  desired  those  who  had  uttered 
them  to  exert  themselves  in  gaining  an  ascent 
of  the  hill,  and  encamp  there  for  the  night. 
In  the  mean  time  I  set  off  with  one  of  the  In- 
dians, and  though  I  continued  my  examina- 
tion of  the  river  almost  as  long  as  there  was 
any  light  to  assist  me,  I  could  see  no  end  of 
the  rapids  and  cascades:  I  was,  therefore, 
perfectly  satisfied,  that  it  would  be  imprac- 
ticable to  proceed  any  further  by  water.  We 
returned  from  this  reconnoitring  excursion 
very  much  fatigued,  with  our  shoes  worn  out 
and  wounded  feet ;  when  I  found  that,  by  fell- 
ing trees  on  the  declivity  of  the  first  hill,  my 
people  had  contrived  to  ascend  it. 

From  the  place  where  I  had  taken  the  alti- 
58 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

tude  at  noon,  to  the  place  where  we  made  our 
landmg,  the  river  is  not  more  than  fifty  yards 
wide,  and  flows  between  stupendous  rocks, 
from  whence  huge  fragments  sometimes  tum- 
ble down,  and  falling  from  such  an  height, 
dash  into  small  stones,  with  sharp  points,  and 
form  the  beach  between  the  rocky  projec- 
tions. Along  the  face  of  some  of  these  preci- 
pices, there  appears  a  stratum  of  a  bitumenous 
substance  which  resembles  coal ;  though  while 
some  of  the  pieces  of  it  appeared  to  be  excel- 
lent fuel,  others  resisted,  for  a  considerable 
time,  the  action  of  fire,  and  did  not  emit  the 
least  flame.  The  whole  of  this  day's  course 
would  have  been  altogether  impracticable,  if 
the  water  had  been  higher,  which  must  be  the 
case  at  certain  seasons.  We  saw  also  several 
encampments  of  the  Knisteneaux  along  the 
river,  which  must  have  been  formed  by  them 
on  their  war  excursions :  a  decided  proof  of 
the  savage,  blood-thirsty  disposition  of  that 
people;  as  nothing  less  than  such  a  spirit 
could  impel  them  to  encounter  the  difficulties 
of  this  almost  inaccessible  country,  w^hose 
natives  are  equally  unoffending  and  defence- 
less. 

Mr.  Mackay  informed  me,  that  in  passing 
over  the  mountains,  he  observed  several 
chasms  in  the  earth  that  emitted  heat  and 
smoke,  which  diffused  a  strong  sulphureous 
stench.  I  should  certainly  have  visited  this 
59 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

phenomenon,  if  I  had  been  sufficiently  qual- 
ified as  a  naturalist,  to  have  offered  scientific 
conjectures  or  observations  thereon. 

Tuesday,  21. — It  rained  in  the  morning, 
and  did  not  cease  till  about  eight,  and  as  the 
men  had  been  very  fatigued  and  disheartened, 
I  suffered  them  to  continue  their  rest  till  that 
hour.  Such  was  the  state  of  the  river,  as  I 
have  already  observed,  that  no  alternative  was 
left  us ;  nor  did  any  means  of  proceeding  pre- 
sent themselves  to  us,  but  the  passage  of  the 
mountain  over  which  we  were  to  carry  the 
canoe  as  well  as  the  baggage.  As  this  was  a 
very  alarming  enterprize,  I  dispatched  Mr. 
Mackay  with  three  men  and  the  two  Indians 
to  proceed  in  a  strait  course  from  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  and  to  keep  the  line  of  the 
river  till  they  should  find  it  navigable.  If  it 
should  be  their  opinion,  that  there  was  no 
practicable  passage  in  that  direction,  two  of 
them  were  instructed  to  return  in  order  to 
make  their  report;  while  the  others  were  to 
go  in  search  of  the  Indian  carrying-place. 
While  they  were  engaged  in  this  excursion, 
the  people  who  remained  with  me  were  em- 
ployed in  gumming  the  canoe,  and  making 
handles  for  the  axes.  At  noon  I  got  an  alti- 
tude, which  made  our  latitude  56.  0,  8.  At 
three  o'clocli  had  time,  when  my  watch  was 
slow  1.  31.  32.  apparent  time. 

At  sun-set,  Mr.  Mackav  returned  v>-ith  one 
60  " 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

of  the  men,  and  in  about  two  hours  was  fol- 
lowed by  the  others.  They  had  penetrated 
thick  woods,  ascended  hills  and  sunk  into 
vallies,  till  they  got  beyond  the  rapid,  which, 
according  to  their  calculation,  was  a  distance 
of  three  leagues.  The  two  parties  returned 
by  different  routes,  but  they  both  agreed,  that 
with  all  its  difficulties,  and  they  were  of  a 
very  alarming  nature,  the  outward  course  was 
that  which  must  be  jDreferred.  Unpromising, 
however,  as  the  account  of  their  expedition 
appeared,  it  did  not  sink  them  into  a  state 
of  discouragement ;  and  a  kettle  of  wild  rice, 
sweetened  with  sugar,  which  had  been  pre- 
pared for  their  return,  with  their  usual  regale 
of  rum,  soon  renewed  that  courage  which  dis- 
dained all  obstacles  that  threatened  our  prog- 
ress :  and  they  went  to  rest,  with  a  full  de- 
termmation  to  surmount  them  on  the  morrow. 
I  sat  up,  in  the  hope  of  getting  an  observa- 
tion of  Jupiter  and  his  first  satellite,  but  the 
cloudy  weather  prevented  my  obtaining  it. 

Wednesday,  22. — At  break  of  day  we  en- 
tered on  the  extraordinary  journey  which  was 
to  occupy  the  remaining  part  of  it.  The  men 
began,  without  delay,  to  cut  a  road  up  the 
mountain,  and  as  the  trees  were  but  of  small 
growth,  I  ordered  them  to  fell  those  which 
they  found  convenient,  in  such  a  manner, 
that  they  might  fall  parallel  with  the  road, 
but,  at  the  same  time,  not  separate  them  en- 
61 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

tirely  from  the  stumps,  so  tliat  they  might 
form  a  kind  of  railing  on  either  side.  The 
baggage  was  now  brought  from  the  water  side 
to  our  encampment.  This  was,  likewise,  from 
the  steep  shelving  of  the  rocks,  a  very  peril- 
ous undertaking,  as  one  false  step  of  any  of 
the  people  employed  in  it,  would  have  been 
instantly  followed  by  falling  headlong  into 
the  water.  AVhen  this  important  object  was 
attained,  the  whole  of  the  party  proceeded 
with  no  small  degree  of  apprehension,  to 
fetch  the  canoe,  which,  in  a  short  time,  was 
also  brought  to  the  encampment;  and,  as 
soon  as  we  had  recovered  from  our  fatigue, 
we  advanced  with  it  up  the  mountain,  having 
the  line  doubled  and  fastened  successively  as 
we  went  on  to  the  stumps ;  while  a  man  at 
the  end  of  it,  hauled  it  around  a  tree,  holding 
it  on  and  shifting  it  as  we  proceeded ;  so  that 
we  may  be  said,  with  strict  truth,  to  have 
warped  the  canoe  up  the  mountain;  indeed 
by  a  general  and  most  laborious  exertion,  we 
got  every  thing  to  the  summit  by  two  in  the 
afternoon.  At  noon,  the  latitude  was  56.  0. 
47.  North.  At  five,  I  sent  the  men  to  cut 
the  road  onwards,  which  they  effected  for 
about  a  mile,  when  they  returned. 

The  weather  was  cloudy  a.t  intervals,  with 
showers  and  thunder.     At  about  ten,  I  ob- 
served an  emersion  of  Jupiter's  second  satel- 
lite; time  by  the   achrometer  8.   32.  20.  by 
62 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  A3IERICA. 

which  I  found  the  longitude  to  be  120.  29, 
30  West  from  Greenwich. 

Thursday  23. — The  weather  was  clear  at 
four  this  morning,  when  the  men  began  to 
carry.  I  joined  ^Ir.  Mackay  and  the  two 
Indians  in  the  labour  of  cutting  a  road.  The 
ground  continued  rising  gently  till  noon, 
when  it  began  to  decline;  but  though  on 
such  an  elevated  situation,  we  could  see  but 
little,  as  mountains  of  a  still  higher  eleva- 
tion, and  covered  with  snow,  were  seen  far 
above  us  in  every  direction.  In  the  after- 
noon the  ground  became  very  uneven ;  hills 
and  deep  defiles  alternately  presented  them- 
selves to  us.  Our  progress,  however,  ex- 
ceeded my  expectation,  and  it  was  not  till 
four  in  the  afternoon  that  the  carriers  over- 
took us.  At  five,  in  a  state  of  fatigue  that 
may  be  more  readily  conceived  than  expressed, 
we  encamped  near  a  rivulet  or  spring  that  is- 
sued from  beneath  a  large  mass  of  ice  and 
snow. 

Our  toilsome  journey  of  this  day  I  compute 
at  about  three  miles ;  along  the  first  of  which 
the  land  is  covered  with  plenty  of  wood,  con- 
sisting of  large  trees,  encumbered  with  little 
underwood,  through  which  it  was  by  no  means 
difficult  to  open  a  road,  by  following  a  well- 
beaten  elk  path :  for  the  two  succeedmg  miles 
we  found  the  country  overspread  with  the 
trunks  of  trees,  laid  low  by  fire  some  years 
63 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

ago ;  a.inong  which  large  copses  had  sprung 
up  of  a  close  growth,  and  intermixed  with 
briars,  so  as  to  render  the  passage  through 
them  painful  and  tedious.  The  soil  in  the 
woods  is  light  and  of  a  dusky  colour ;  that 
in  the  burned  country  is  a  mixture  of  sand 
and  clay  with  small  stones.  The  trees  are 
spruce,  red-pine,  cypress,  poplar,  white  birch, 
willow,  alder,  arrow-wood,  red-wood.  Hard, 
service-tree,  bois-picant,  &c.  I  never  saw 
any  of  the  last  kind  before.  It  rises  to  about 
nine  feet  in  height,  grows  in  joints  without 
branches,  and  is  tufted  at  the  extremity. 
The  stem  is  of  an  equal  size  from  the  bottom 
to  the  top,  and  does  not  exceed  an  inch  in 
diameter;  it  is  covered  with  small  prickles, 
which  caught  our  trowsers,  and  working 
through  them,  sometimes  found  their  way  to 
the  flesh.  The  shrubs  are,  the  gooseberry, 
the  currant,  and  several  kinds  of  briars. 

Friday y  2Jf. — We  continued  our  very  labori- 
ous journey,  which  led  us  down  some  steep 
hills,  and  through  a  wood  of  tall  pines. 
After  much  toil  and  trouble  in  bearing  the 
canoe  through  the  difficult  passages  which  we 
encountered,  at  four  in  the  afternoon  we 
arrived  at  the  river,  some  hundred  yards 
above  the  rapids  of  falls,  with  all  our  bag- 
gage. I  compute  the  distance  of  this  day's 
progress  to  be  about  four  miles;  indeed  I 
should  have  measured  the  whole  of  the  way, 
64 


NORTH-WEST  CONTIKENT  OF  AlVIERICA. 

if  I  had  not  been  obliged  to  engage  personally 
in  the  labour  of  making  the  road.  But  after 
all,  the  Indian  carrying-way,  whatever  may 
be  its  length,  and  I  think  it  cannot  exceed 
ten  miles,  will  always  be  found  more  safe  and 
expeditious  than  the  passage  which  our  toil 
and  i^erseverance  formed  and  surmounted. 

Those  of  my  people  who  visited  this  place 
on  the  21st,  were  of  opinion  that  the  water 
had  risen  very  much  since  that  time.  About 
two  hundred  yards  below  us,  the  stream 
rushed  with  an  astonishing  but  silent  veloc- 
ity, between  j)erpendicular  rocks,  which  are 
not  more  than  thirty-five  yards  asunder: 
when  the  water  is  high,  it  runs  over  those 
rocks,  in  a  channel  three  times  that  breadth, 
where  it  is  bounded  by  far  more  elevated 
precipices.  In  the  former  are  deep  round 
holes,  some  of  which  are  full  of  water,  while 
others  are  empty,  in  whose  bottom  are  small 
round  stones,  as  smooth  as  marble.  Some  of 
these  natural  cjdinders  would  contain  two 
hundred  gallons.  At  a  small  distance  below 
the  first  of  these  rocks,  the  channel  widens  in 
a  kind  of  zig-zag  progression;  and  it  was 
really  awful  to  behold  with  what  infinite 
force  the  water  drives  against  the  rocks  on 
one  side,  and  with  what  impetuous  strength 
it  is  repelled  to  the  other :  it  then  falls  back, 
as  it  were,  into  a  more  strait  but  rugged  pas- 
sage, over  which  it  is  tossed  in  high,  foaming, 
Vol.  IL— 5  G5 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

lialf -formed  billows,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
follow  it. 

The  young  men  informed  me  that  this  was 
the  place  where  their  relations  had  told  me 
that  I  should  meet  with  a  fall  equal  to  that 
of  Niagara:  to  exculpate  them,  however, 
from  their  apparent  misinformation,  they 
declared  that  their  friends  were  not  accus- 
tomed to  utter  falsehoods,  and  that  the  fall 
had  probably  been  destroj^ed  by  the  force  of 
the  water.  It  is,  however,  very  evident  that 
those  people  had  not  been  here,  or  did  not 
adhere  to  the  truth.  By  the  number  of  trees 
which  appeared  to  have  been  felled  with  axes, 
we  discovered  that  the  Knisteneaux,  or  some 
tribes  who  are  known  to  employ  that  instru- 
ment, had  passed  this  way.  We  passed 
through  a  snare  enclosure,  but  saw  no  ani- 
mals, though  the  country  was  very  much  in- 
tersected by  their  tracks. 

Saturday,  25. — It  rained  throughout  the 
night,  and  till  twelve  this  day;  while  the 
business  of  preparing  great  and  small  poles, 
and  putting  the  canoe  in  order,  &c.  caused 
us  to  remain  here  till  five  in  the  afternoon. 
I  now  attached  a  knife,  with  a  steel,  flint, 
beads,  and  other  trifling  articles  to  a  pole, 
which  I  erected,  and  left  as  a  token  of  amity 
to  the  natives.  When  I  was  making  this 
arrangement,  one  of  my  attendants,  whom  I 
have  already  described  under  the  title  of  the 
66 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

Cancre,  added  to  my  assortment,  a  small 
round  piece  of  green  wood,  chewed  at  one 
end  in  the  form  of  a  brush,  which  the  In- 
dians used  to  pick  the  marrow  out  of  bones. 
This  he  informed  me  was  an  emblem  of  a 
country  abounding  in  animals.  The  water  had 
risen  during  our  stay  here  one  foot  and  a  half 
perpendicular  height. 

We  now  embarked,  and  our  course  was 
Korth-West  one  mile  and  three  quarters. 
There  were  mountains  on  all  sides  of  us,  which 
were  covered  with  snow;  one  in  particular, 
on  the  South  side  of  the  river,  rose  to  a  great 
height.  We  continued  to  proceed  West  three 
quarters  of  a  mile.  North- West  one  mile,  and 
West- South- West  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  when 
we  encamped  for  the  night.  The  Cancre 
killed  a  small  elk. 

Sunday,  26. — The  weather  was  clear  and 
sharp,  and  between  three  and  four  in  the 
morning  we  renewed  our  voyage,  our  first 
course  being  West  by  South  three  miles  and 
a  half,  when  the  men  complained  of  the  cold 
in  their  fingers,  as  they  were  obliged  to  push 
on  the  canoe  with  the  poles.  Here  a  small 
river  flowed  in  from  the  North.  We  now 
continued  to  steer  West-South- West  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  West-North- West  a  mile  and  a 
half,  and  West  two  miles,  when  we  found 
ourselves  on  a  parallel  with  a  chain  of  moun- 
tains on  both  sides  the  river,  running  South 
67 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

and  North.  The  river,  both  yesterday  and 
the  early  part  of  to-day,  was  from  four  to  eight 
hundred  yards  wide,  and  full  of  islands,  but 
was  at  this  time  diminished  to  about  two  hun- 
dred yards  broad,  and  free  from  islands,  with 
a  smooth  but  strong  current.  Our  next  course 
was  South- West  two  miles,  when  we  encount- 
ered a  rapid,  and  saw  an  encampmient  of  the 
Knisteneaux.  We  now  proceeded  North- 
West  by  West  one  mile,  among  islands, 
South- West  by  West  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
South- South-East  one  mile,  veered  to  South- 
West  through  islands  three  miles  and  a  half, 
and  South  by  East  half  a  mile.  Here  a  river 
poured  in  on  the  left,  which  was  the  most 
considerable  that  we  had  seen  since  we  had 
passed  the  mountain.  At  seven  in  the  even- 
ing we  landed  and  encamped. 

Though  the  sun  had  shone  upon  us  through- 
out the  day,  the  air  was  so  cold  that  the  men, 
though  actively  employed,  could  not  resist  it 
without  the  aid  of  their  blanket  coats.  This 
circumstance  might,  in  some  degree,  be  ex- 
pected from  the  surrounding  mountains, 
which  were  covered  with  ice  and  snow ;  but  as 
they  are  not  so  high  as  to  produce  the  ex- 
treme cold  which  we  suffered,  it  must  be 
more  particularly  attributed  to  the  high  situ- 
ation of  the  country  itself,  rather  than  to  the 
local  elevation  of  the  mountains,  the  greatest 
height  of  which  does  not  exceed  fifteen  hun- 
68 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

dred  feet ;  though  in  general  they  do  not  rise 
to  half  that  altitude. 

But  as  I  had  not  been  able  to  take  an  exact 
measurement,  I  do  not  presume  upon  the  ac- 
curacy of  my  conjecture.  Towards  the  bot- 
tom of  these  heights,  which  were  clear  of 
snow,  the  trees  were  putting  forth  their 
leaves,  while  those  in  their  middle  region 
still  retained  all  the  characteristics  of  winter, 
and  on  the  upper  parts  there  was  little  or  no 
wood. 

Monday,  27.^ — The  weather  was  clear, 
and  we  continued  our  voyage  at  the  usual 
hour,  when  we  successively  found  several 
rapids  and  points  to  impede  our  progress. 
At  noon  our  latitude  was  56.  5.  54.  North. 
The  Indians  killed  a  stag;  and  one  of  the 
men  who  went  to  fetch  it  was  very  much  en- 
dangered by  the  rolling  down  of  a  large  stone 
from  the  heights  above  him. 

Tuesday f  28. — The  day  was  very  cloudy. 
The  mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
seemed  to  have  sunk,  in  their  elevation,  dur- 
ing the  voyage  of  yesterday.      To-day  they 

*From  this  day  to  the  4th  of  June  the  courses  of 
my  voyage  are  omitted,  as  I  lost  the  book  that  con- 
tained them.  I  was  in  the  habit  of  sometimes  in- 
dulging myself  with  a  short  doze  in  the  canoe,  and 
I  imagine  that  the  branches  of  the  trees  brushed  my 
book  from  me,  when  I  was  in  such  a  situation, 
which  renders  the  account  of  these  few  days  less 
distinct  than  usual. 

69 


JOURNAL   OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

resumed  their  former  altitude,  and  run  so 
close  on  either  side  of  the  channel,  that  all 
view  was  excluded  of  every  thing  but  them- 
selves. This  part  of  the  current  was  not 
broken  by  islands ;  but  in  the  afternoon  we 
approached  some  cascades,  which  obliged  us 
to  carry  our  canoe  and  its  lading  for  several 
hundred  yards.  Here  we  observed  an  en- 
campment of  the  natives,  though  some  time 
had  elapsed  since  it  had  been  inhabited.  The 
greater  part  of  the  day  was  divided  between 
heavy  showers  and  small  rain ;  and  we  took 
our  sta-tion  on  the  shore  about  six  in  the 
evening,  about  three  miles  above  the  last 
rapid. 

Wednesday,  29. — The  rain  was  so  violent 
throughout  the  whole  of  this  day,  that  we  did 
not  venture  to  proceed.  As  we  had  almost 
expended  the  contents  of  a  rum-keg,  and  this 
being  a  day  which  allowed  of  no  active  em- 
ployment, I  amused  myself  with  the  experi- 
ment of  enclosing  a  letter  in  it,  and  dispatch- 
ing it  down  the  stream  to  take  its  fate.  I 
accordingly  introduced  a  written  account  of 
all  our  hardships,  &c.  carefully  enclosed  in 
bark,  into  the  small  barrel  by  the  bung-hole, 
which  being  carefully  secured,  I  consigned 
this  epistolatory  cargo  to  the  mercy  of  the 
current. 

Thursday,  SO. — We  were  alarmed  this 
morning  at  break  of  da^^,  by  the  continual 
70 


NORTH-WEST   CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

barking  of  our  dog,  who  never  ceased  from 
running  backwards  and  forwards  in  the  rear 
of  our  situation :  when,  however,  the  day  ad- 
vanced, we  discovered  the  cause  of  our  alarm 
to  proceed  from  a  wolf,  who  was  parading 
a  ridge  a  few  yards  behind  us,  and  had 
been  most  probably  allured  by  the  scent  of 
our  small  portion  of  fresh  meat.  The  weather 
was  cloudy,  but  it  did  not  prevent  us  from 
renewing  onr  progress  at  a  very  early  hour. 
A  considerable  river  appeared  from  the  left, 
and  we  continued  our  course  till  seven  in  the 
evening,  when  we  landed  at  night  where 
there  was  an  Indian  encampment. 

Friday  J  31. — The  morning  was  clear  and 
cold,  and  the  current  very  powerful.  On  cross- 
ing the  mouth  of  a  river  that  flowed  in  from  the 
right  of  us,  we  were  very  much  endangered; 
indeed  all  the  rivers  which  I  have  lately  seen, 
appear  to  overflov/  their  natural  limits,  as  it 
may  be  supposed,  from  the  melting  of  the 
mountain  snow.  The  water  is  almost  white, 
the  bed  of  the  river  being  of  limestone.  The 
mountains  are  one  solid  mass  of  the  same 
material,  but  without  the  least  shade  of  trees, 
or  decoration  of  foliage.  At  nine  the  men 
were  so  cold  that  we  landed,  in  order  to 
kindle  a  fire,  which  was  considered  as  a  very 
uncommon  circumstance  at  this  season;  a 
small  quantity  of  rum,  however,  served  as  an 
adequate  substitute  ;  and  the  current  being  so 
71 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

smooth  as  to  admit  of  tlie  use  of  paddles,  I 
encouraged  them  to  proceed  without  any- 
further  delay.  In  a  short  time  an  extensive 
view  opened  upon  us,  displaying  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  that  was  heightened  by  the 
calmness  of  the  weather,  and  a  splendid  sun. 
Here  the  mountains  which  were  covered  with 
wood,  opened  on  either  side,  so  that  we  en- 
tertained the  hope  of  soon  leaving  them  be- 
hind us.  When  we  had  got  to  the  termina- 
tion of  this  prospect,  the  river  was  barred 
with  rocks,  forming  cascades  and  small 
islands.  To  proceed  onwards,  we  were  un- 
der the  necessity  of  clearing  a  narrow  pas- 
sage of  the  drift  wood,  on  the  left  shore. 
Here  the  view  convinced  us  that  our  late 
hopes  were  without  foundation,  as  there  ap- 
peared a  ridge  or  chain  of  mountains,  run- 
ning South  and  North  as  far  as  the  eye 
eould  reach. 

On  advancing  two  or  three  miles,  we  ar- 
rived at  the  fork,  one  branch  running  about 
West-North-West,  and  the  other  South- 
South-East.  If  I  had  been  governed  by  my 
own  judgment,  I  should  have  taken  the  for- 
mer, as  it  appeared  to  me  to  be  the  most  likely 
to  bring  us  nearest  to  the  part  where  I  wished 
to  fall  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  but  the  old  man, 
whom  I  have  already  mentioned  as  having 
been  frequently  on  war  expeditions  in  this 
country,  had  warned  me  not,  on  any  account, 
72 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

to  follow  it,  as  it  was  soon  lost  in  various 
branches  among  tlie  mountains,  and  that  there 
was  no  great  river  that  ran  in  any  direction 
near  it ;  but  by  following  the  latter,  he  said, 
we  should  arrive  at  a  carrying-place  to  another 
large  river,  that  did  not  exceed  a  day's  march, 
where  the  inhabitants  build  houses,  and  live 
upon  islands.  There  was  so  much  apparent 
truth  in  the  old  man's  narrative,  that  I  de- 
termined to  be  governed  by  it;  for  I  did 
not  entertain  the  least  doubt,  if  I  could  get 
into  the  other  river,  that  I  should  reach  the 
ocean. 

I  accordingly  ordered  my  steersman  to  pro- 
ceed at  once  to  the  East  branch,  which  ap- 
peared to  be  more  rapid  than  the  other,  though 
it  did  not  possess  an  equal  breadth.  These 
circumstances  disposed  my  men  and  Indians, 
the  latter  in  particular  being  very  tired  of  the 
voyage,  to  express  their  wishes  that  I  should 
take  the  Western  branch,  especially  when  they 
perceived  the  difficulty  of  stemming  the  cur- 
rent, in  the  direction  on  which  I  had  deter- 
mined. Indeed  the  rush  of  water  was  so 
powerful,  that  we  were  the  greatest  part  of 
the  afternoon  in  getting  two  or  three  miles — 
a  very  tardy  and  mortifying  progress,  and 
which,  with  the  voyage,  was  openly  execrated 
by  many  of  those  who  were  engaged  in  it : 
and  tlie  inexpressible  toil  these  people  had 
endured,  as  well  as  the  dangers  they  had  en- 
73 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

countered,  required  some  degree  of  considera- 
tion ;  I  therefore  employed  those  arguments 
which  were  the  best  calculated  to  calm  their 
immediate  discontents,  as  well  as  to  encour- 
age their  future  hopes,  though,  at  the  same 
time,  I  delivered  my  sentiments  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  convince  them  that  I  was  deter- 
mined to  proceed. 

On  the  1st  of  June  we  embarked  at  sun- 
rise, and  towards  noon  the  current  began  to 
slacken;  we  then  put  to  shore,  in  order  to 
gum  the  canoe,  when  a  meridian  altitude  gave 
me  55.  42.  16.  North  latitude.  We  then  con- 
tinued our  course,  and  towards  the  evening 
the  current  began  to  recover  its  former 
strength.  Mr.  Mackay  and  the  Indians  had 
already  disembarked,  to  walk  and  lighten  the 
boat.  At  sun-set  we  encamped  on  a  point, 
being  the  first  dry  land  which  had  been  found 
on  this  side  the  river,  that  was  fit  for  our  pur- 
pose, since  our  people  went  on  shore.  In  the 
morning  we  passed  a  large  rapid  river,  that 
flowed  in  from  the  right. 

In  no  part  of  the  North-West  did  I  see  so 
much  beaver-work,  within  an  equal  distance, 
as  in  the  course  of  this  day.  In  some  places 
they  had  cut  down  several  acres  of  large  pop- 
lars ;  and  we  saw  also  a  great  number  of  these 
active  and  sagacious  animals.  The  time  which 
these  wonderful  creatures  allot  for  their  la- 
bours, whether  in  erecting  their  curious  hab- 
74 


NORTH-WEST   CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

itations,  or  providing  food,  is  the  whole  of 
the  interval  between  the  setting  and  the  rising 
sun. 

Towards  the  dusky  part  of  the  evening  we 
heard  several  discharges  from  the  fowling 
pieces  of  our  people,  which  we  answered,  to 
inform  them  of  our  situation ;  and  some  time 
after  it  was  dark,  they  arrived  in  an  equal 
state  of  fatigue  and  alarm;  they  were  also 
obliged  to  swim  across  a  channel  in  order  to 
get  to  us,  as  we  were  situated  on  an  island, 
though  we  were  ignorant  of  the  circumstance, 
till  they  came  to  inform  us.  One  of  the  In- 
dians was  positive  that  he  heard  the  discharge 
of  fire-arms  above  our  encampment ;  and  on 
comparing  the  number  of  our  discharges  with 
theirs,  there  appeared  to  be  some  foundation 
for  his  alarm,  as  we  imagined  that  we  had 
heard  two  reports  more  than  they  acknowl- 
edged ;  and  in  their  turn,  they  declared  that 
they  had  heard  twice  the  number  of  those 
which  we  knev/  had  proceeded  from  us.  The 
Indians  were  therefore  certain,  that  the  Knis- 
teneaux  must  be  in  our  vicinity,  on  a  war 
expedition,  and  consequently,  if  they  were 
numerous,  we  should  have  had  no  reason 
to  expect  the  least  mercy  from  them  in  this 
distant  country.  Though  I  did  not  believe 
that  circumstance,  or  that  any  of  the  na- 
tives could  be  in  possession  of  fire-arms,  I 
thought  it  right,  at  all  events,  we  should 
75 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

be  prepared.  Our  fusees  were,  therefore, 
primed  and  loaded,  and  having  extinguished 
»i)ur  fire,  each  of  us  took  his  station  at  the 
foot  of  a  tree,  where  we  passed  an  uneasy 
and  restless  night. 

The  succeeding  morning  being  clear  and 
pleasant,  we  proceeded  at  an  early  hour 
against  a  rapid  current,  intersected  by  islands. 
About  eight  we  passed  two  large  trees,  whose 
roots  having  been  undermined  by  the  current, 
had  recently  fallen  into  the  river ;  and,  in  my 
opinion,  the  crash  of  their  fall  had  occasioned 
the  noise  which  caused  our  late  alarm.  In 
this  manner  the  water  ravages  the  islands  in 
these  rivers,  and  by  driving  down  great  quan- 
tities of  wood,  forms  the  foundations  of 
others.  The  men  were  so  oppressed  with 
fatigue,  that  it  was  necessary  they  should  en- 
camp at  six  in  the  afternoon.  We,  therefore, 
landed  on  a  sandy  island,  which  is  a  very  un- 
common object,  as  the  greater  part  of  the 
islands  consist  of  a  bottom  of  round  stones 
and  gravel,  covered  from  three  to  ten  feet 
with  mud  and  old  drift-wood.  Beaver-work 
was  as  frequently  seen  as  on  the  preceding 
day. 

On  the  3d  of  June  we  renewed  our  voyage 
with  the  rising  sun.  At  noon  I  obtained  a 
meridian  altitude,  which  gave  55.  22.  3.  North 
latitude.  I  also  took  time,  and  the  watch 
was  slow  1.  30.  14.  apparent  time.  Accord- 
76 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA, 

ing  to  my  calculation,  this   place   is  about 
twenty-five  miles  South-East  of  the  fork.* 

*  I  shall  now  proceed  with  my  usual  regularity, 
which,  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  has  been,  for 
some  days,  suspended,  from  the  loss  of  my  book  of 
observation. 


JOURNAL  OF  A  YOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 


CHAPTER    IV. 

JUNE  4,  1793. 

We  embarked  tliis  morning  at  four  in  a 
rery  heavy  fog.  Tlie  water  had  been  contin- 
ually rising,  and,  in  many  places,  overflowed 
its  banks.  The  current  also  was  so  strong, 
that  our  progress  was  very  tedious,  and  re- 
quired the  most  laborious  exertions.  Our 
course  was  this  day,  South-South-East  one 
mile,  South-South- West  half  a  mile,  South- 
East  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  North-East  by 
East  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  South-East  half 
a  mile,  South-East  by  South  one  mile,  South- 
South-East  one  mile  and  three  quarters, 
South-East  by  South  half  a  mile.  East  by 
South  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  South-East  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  North-East  by  East  half 
a  mile,  East  by  North  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
South-East  half  a  mile,  South-East  by  South 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  South-East  by  East  half 
a  mile,  North-East  by  East  half  a  mile, 
North-North-East  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
k)  South  by  East  one  mile  and  a  half.  We 
eould  not  find  a  place  fit  for  an  encampment, 
inll  nine  at  night,  when  we  landed  on  a  bank 
•f  gravel,  of  which  little  more  appeared  above 
water  thau  the  spot  we  occupied. 
78 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

Wednesday f  5.  — This  morning  we  found  our 
canoe  and  baggage  in  the  water,  which  had 
continued  rising  during  the  night.  We  then 
gummed  the  canoe,  as  we  arrived  at  too  late 
an  hour  to  perform  that  operation  on  the  pre- 
ceding evening.  This  necessary  business  be- 
ing completed,  we  traversed  to  the  Korth 
shore,  where  I  disembarked  with  Mr.  Mac- 
kay,  and  the  hunters,  in  order  to  ascend  an 
adjacent  mountain,  with  the  hope  of  ob- 
taining a  view  of  the  interior  part  of  the 
couiitry.  I  directed  my  people  to  proceed 
with  all  possible  diligence,  and  that,  if 
they  met  with  any  accident,  or  found  my 
return  necessary,  they  should  fire  two  guns. 
They  also  understood,  that  when  they  should 
hear  the  same  signal  from  me,  they  were  to 
answer,  and  wait  for  me,  if  I  were  behind 
them. 

When  we  had  ascended  to  the  summit  of 
the  hill,  we  found  that  it  extended  onwards 
in  an  even,  level  country ;  so  that,  encumbered 
as  we  were,  with  the  thick  wood,  no  distant 
view  could  be  obtamed ;  I  therefore  climbed  a 
very  lofty  tree,  from  whose  top  I  discerned 
on  the  right  a  ridge  of  mountains  covered 
with  snow,  bearing  about  North- W^est;  from 
thence  another  ridge  of  high  land,  whereon 
no  snow  was  visible,  stretched  towards  the 
South:  between  which  and  the  snowy  hills 
on  the  East  side,  there  appeared  to  be  an 
79 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

opening,    which   we    determined    to   be   the 
course  of  the  river. 

Having  obtained  all  the  satisfaction  that 
the  nature  of  the  place  would  admit,  we  pro- 
ceeded forward  to  overtake  the  canoe,  and 
after  a  warm  walk  came  down  upon  the  river, 
when  we  discharged  our  pieces  twice,  but  re- 
ceived no  answering  signal.  I  was  of  opinion, 
that  the  canoe  was  before  us,  while  the  In- 
dians entertained  an  opposite  notion.  I, 
however,  crossed  another  point  of  land,  and 
came  again  to  the  waterside  about  ten.  Here 
we  had  a  long  view  of  the  river,  which  cir- 
cumstance excited  in  my  mind,  some  doubts 
of  my  former  sentiments.  We  repeated  our 
signals,  but  without  any  return ;  and  as  every 
moment  now  increased  my  anxiety,  I  left  Mr. 
Mackay  and  one  of  the  Indians  at  this  spot 
to  make  a  large  fire,  and  sent  branches  adrift 
down  the  current  as  notices  of  our  situation, 
if  the  canoe  was  behind  us ;  and  proceeded 
with  the  other.Indian  across  a  very  long  point, 
where  the  river  makes  a  considerable  bend,  in 
order  that  I  might  be  satisfied  if  the  canoe 
was  a-head.  Having  been  accustomed,  for 
the  last  fortnight,  to  very  cold  weather,  I 
found  the  heat  of  this  day  almost  insupport- 
able, as  our  way  lay  over  a  dry  sand,  which 
was  relieved  by  no  shade,  but  such  as  a  few 
scattered  cypresses  could  afford  us.  About 
twelve,  we  arrived  once  more  at  the  river, 
80 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

and  the  discharge  of  our  pieces  was  as  unsuc- 
cessful as  it  had  hitherto  been.  The  water 
rushed  before  us  with  uncommon  velocity; 
and  we  also  tried  the  experiment  of  sending 
fresh  branches  down  it.  To  add  to  the  dis- 
agreeableness  of  our  situation,  the  gnats  and 
mosquitoes  appeared  in  swarms  to  torment 
us.  When  we  returned  to  our  companions, 
we  found  that  they  had  not  been  contented 
with  remaining  m  the  position  where  I  had 
left  them,  but  had  been  three  or  four  miles 
down  the  river,  but  were  come  back  to  their 
station,  without  having  made  any  discovery 
of  the  people  on  the  water. 

Various  very  unpleasing  conjectures  at  once 
perplexed  and  distressed  us:  the  Indians, 
who  are  inclined  to  magnify  evils  of  any  and 
every  kind,  had  at  once  consigned  the  canoe 
and  every  one  on  board  it  to  the  bottom ;  and 
were  already  settling  a  plan  to  return  upon  a 
raft,  as  well  as  calculating  the  number  of 
nights  that  would  be  required  to  reach  their 
home.  As  for  myself,  it  will  be  easily  be- 
lieved, that  my  mind  was  in  a  state  of  ex- 
treme agitation,  and  the  imprudence  of  my 
conduct  in  leaving  the  people,  in  such  a  situ- 
ation of  danger  and  toilsome  exertion  added 
a  very  painful  mortification  to  the  severe  ap- 
prehensions I  already  suffered :  it  was  an  act 
of  indiscretion  which  might  have  put  an  end 

to  the  voyage  that  I  had  so  much  at  heart, 
Vol.  II.— 6  81 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

and  compelled  me  at  length  to  submit  to  the- 
scheme  which  my  hunters  had  already  formed 
for  our  return. 

At  half  past  six  in  the  evening,  Mr.  Mackay 
and  the  Cancre  set  off  to  proceed  down  the 
river,  as  far  as  they  could  before  the  night 
came  on,  and  to  continue  their  journey  in  the 
morning  to  the  place  where  we  had  encamped 
the  preceding  evening.  I  also  proposed  ta 
make  my  excursion  upwards ;  and,  if  we  both 
failed  of  success  in  meeting  the  canoe,  it  was 
agreed  that  we  should  return  to  the  place- 
where  we  now  separated. 

In  this  situation  we  had  wherewithal  to 
drink  in  plenty,  but  with  solid  food  we  were 
totally  unprovided.  We  had  not  seen  even  a 
partridge  throughout  the  daj^,  and  the  tracks 
of  rein-deer  that  we  had  discovered,  were  of 
an  old  date.  We  were,  however,  preparing 
to  make  a  bed  of  the  branches  of  trees,  where 
we  should  have  liad  no  other  canopy  than 
that  afforded  us  by  the  heavens,  when  we 
heard  a  shot,  and  soon  after  another,  which 
was  the  notice  agreed  upon,  if  Mr.  Mackay 
and  the  Indian  should  see  the  canoe :  that 
fortunate  circumstance  was  also  confirmed  by 
a  return  of  the  signal  from  the  people.  I 
was,  however,  so  fatigued  from  the  heat  and 
exercise  of  the  day,  as  well  as  incommoded 
from  drinking  so  much  cold  water,  that  I  did 
not  wish  to  remove  till  the  following  morn- 
S2 


KORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  A^IERICA. 

ing;  but  the  ludian  made  such  bitter  com- 
plaints of  the  cokl  and  hunger  he  suffered, 
that  I  complied  with  his  solicitations  to  de- 
part ;  and  it  was  almost  dark  when  we  reached 
the  canoe,  barefooted,  and  drenched  with 
rain.  But  these  inconveniences  affected  me 
very  little,  Avhen  I  saw  myself  once  more  sur- 
rounded with  my  people.  They  informed  me, 
that  the  canoe  had  been  broken;  and  that 
they  had  this  day  experienced  much  greater 
toil  and  hardships  than  on  any  former  occa- 
sion. I  thought  it  prudent  to  affect  a  belief 
of  every  representation  that  they  made,  and 
even  to  comfort  each  of  them  with  a  consol- 
atory dram :  for,  however  difficult  the  passage 
might  have  been,  it  Avas  too  short  to  have  oc- 
cupied the  whole  day,  if  they  had  not  relaxed 
in  their  exertions.  The  rain  was  accom- 
panied with  thunder  and  lightning. 

It  appeared  from  the  various  encampments 
which  we  had  seen,  and  from  several  paddles 
we  had  found,  that  the  natives  frequent  this 
part  of  the  country  at  the  latter  end  of  the 
summer  and  the  fall.  The  course  to-day  was 
nearly  East-South-East  two  miles  and  a  half, 
South  by  West  one  mile.  South- South-East 
one  mile  and  a  half,  East  two  miles,  and 
South-East  by  South  one  mile. 

Thursdcujj  6. — At  half  past  four  this  morn- 
ing we  continued  our  voyage,  our  courses 
being  South-East  by  South  one  mile.  East  by 
83 


JOURNAL  OP  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

South  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  South-East  by 
East  two  miles.  The  whole  of  this  distance 
we  proceeded  by  hauling  the  canoe  from 
branch  to  branch.  The  current  was  so  strong, 
that  it  was  impossible  to  stem  it  with  the 
paddles ;  the  depth  was  too  great  to  receive 
any  assistance  from  the  poles,  and  the  bank 
of  the  river  was  so  closely  lined  with  willows 
and  other  trees,  that  it  was  impossible  to  em- 
ploy the  line.  As  it  was  past  twelve  before 
we  could  find  a  place  that  would  allow  of  our 
landing,  I  could  not  get  a  meridian  altitude. 
We  occupied  the  rest  of  the  day  in  repairing 
the  canoe,  drying  our  cloaths,  and  making 
paddles  and  poles  to  replace  those  which  had 
been  broken  or  lost. 

Friday,  7. — The  morning  was  clear  and 
calm ;  and  since  we  had  been  at  this  station 
the  water  had  risen  two  inches ;  so  that  the 
current  became  still  stronger;  and  its  vel- 
ocity had  already  been  so  great  as  to  justify 
our  despair  in  getting  up  it,  if  we  had  not 
been  so  long  accustomed  to  surmount  I  last 
night  observed  an  emersion  of  Jupiter's  first 
satellite,  but  inadvertently  went  to  bed,  with- 
out committing  the  exact  time  to  writing :  if 
my  memory  is  correct,  it  was  8.  18.  10.  by 
the  timepiece.  The  canoe,  which  had  been 
little  better  than  a  wreck,  being  now  repaired, 
we  proceeded  East  two  miles  and  a  quarter, 
South- South -East  half  a  mile,  South-East  a 
84 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AlVIERICA 

quarter  of  a  mile,  when  we  landed  to  take  an 
altitude  for  time.  We  continued  our  route  at 
South-East  by  East  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
and  landed  again  to  determine  the  latitude, 
which  is  55.  2.  51.  To  this  I  add,  2.  45. 
Southing,  which  will  make  the  place  of  tak- 
ing altitude  for  time  55.  5.  36.  with  which  I 
find  that  my  time-piece  was  slow  1.  32.  23. 
apparent  time;  and  made  the  longitude  ob- 
tained 122.  35.  50.  West  of  Greenwich. 

From  this  place  we  proceeded  East  by  South 
four  miles  and  a  half,  East-South-East  one 
mile  and  a  half,  in  which  space  there  falls  in 
a  small  river  from  the  East ;  East  half  a  mile, 
South-East  a  mile  and  a  half.  East  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  and  encamped  at  seven  o'clock. 
Mr.  Mackay  and  the  hunters  walked  the 
greatest  part  of  the  day,  and  in  the  course  of 
their  excursion  killed  a  porcupme.*  Here 
we  found  the  bed  of  a  very  large  bear  quite 
fresh.  During  the  day  several  Indian  en- 
campments were  seen,  which  were  of  a  late 
erection.  The  current  had  also  lost  some  of 
its  impetuosity  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
day- 

*  We  had  been  obliged  to  indulge  our  hunters 
with  sitting  idle  in  the  canoe,  lest  their  being  com- 
pelled to  share  in  the  labour  of  navigating  it 
should  disgust  and  drive  them  from  us.  We, 
therefore,  employed  them  as  much  as  possible  on 
shore,  as  well  to  procure  provisions,  as  to  lighten 
the  canoe. 

85 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

Saturday y  8. — It  rained  and  thundered 
througli  the  night,  and  at  four  in  the  morn- 
ing we  again  encountered  the  current.  Our 
course  was  East  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  round  to 
South  by  East  along  a  very  high  white  sandy- 
bank  on  the  East  shore,  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  South-South-East  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
South-South-West  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  South- 
South-East  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  South- 
East  two  miles,  with  a  slack  current ;  South- 
East  by  East  two  miles  8.nd  a  quarter.  East  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  South-South-East  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile,  South-East  by  South  four  miles 
and  a  half,  South-East  one  mile  and  a  half, 
South-South-West  half  a  mile,  East-lSTorth- 
East  half  a  mile,  East-South-East  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  South-East  by  South  one  mile, 
South-East  by  East  half  a  mile,  East  by 
South  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  when  the 
mountains  were  in  full  view  in  this  direction, 
and  Eastward.  For  the  three  last  days  we 
could  only  see  them  at  short  intervals  and 
long  distances ;  but  till  then,  they  were  con- 
tinually in  sight  on  either  side,  from  our  en- 
trance into  the  fork.  Those  to  the  left  were 
at  no  great  distance  from  us. 

For  the  last  two  days  we  had  been  anxiously 
looking  out  for  the  carrying-place,  but  could 
not  discover  it,  and  our  only  hope  was  in  such 
information  as  we  should  be  able  to  procure 
from  the  natives.  All  that  remained  for  us 
86 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

to  do,  was  to  i:>usli  forwards  till  the  river 
should  be  no  longer  navigable :  it  had  now, 
indeed,  overflowed  its  banks,  so  that  it  was 
eight  at  night  before  we  could  discover  a  place 
to  encamp.  Having  found  plenty  of  wild 
parsnips,  we  gathered  the  tops,  and  boiled 
them  with  pemmican  for  our  supper. 

Sunday,  9. — The  rain  of  this  mornmg 
terminated  in  a  heavy  mist  at  half  past  five, 
when  we  embarked  and  steered  South-East 
one  mile  and  a  half,  when  it  veered  North- 
North-East  half  a  mile,  South-East  three 
quarters  of  a  mile.  East  by  South  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile,  East-South-East  a  quarter  of 
a  mile,  South-South-East  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
South-East  by  East  one  mile,  North-East  by 
East  half  a  mile,  South-East  by  East  half  a 
mile,  South-East  by  South  three  quarters  of 
a  mile,  South-East  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
East  by  South  half  a  mile,  South-East  by 
East  half  a  mile,  East-North-East  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile,  when  it  veered  to  South-South- 
East  half  a  mile,  then  back  to  East  (when  a 
blue  mountain,  clear  of  snow,  appeared 
a-head)  one  mile  and  a  half ;  North-East  by 
East  half  a  mile.  East  by  North  one  mile, 
when  it  veered  to  South-East  half  a  mile, 
then  on  to  North-West  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  and  back  to  North-East  by  East  half  a 
mile.  South  by  West  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
North-East  by  East  to  North-North-East  half 
87 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

a  mile,  South-South-East  a  quarter  of  a  mile^ 
and  East  by  North  half  a  raile ;  here  we  per- 
ceived a  smell  of  fire ;  and  in  a  short  time 
heard  people  in  the  woods,  as  if  in  a  state  of 
great  confusion,  which  was  occasioned,  as  we 
afterwards  understood,  by  their  discovery  of 
us.  At  the  same  time  this  unexpected  cir- 
cumstance produced  some  little  discomposure 
among  ourselves,  as  our  arms  were  not  in  a 
state  of  preparation,  and  we  were  as  yet  un- 
able to  ascertain  the  number  of  the  party.  I 
considered,  that  if  there  were '  but  few,  it 
would  be  needless  to  pursue  them,  as  it  would 
not  be  probable  that  we  should  overtake  them 
in  these  thick  woods ;  and  if  they  were  nu- 
merous, it  would  be  an  act  of  great  impru- 
dence to  make  the  attempt,  at  least  during 
their  present  alarm.  I  therefore  ordered  my 
people  to  strike  off  to  the  opposite  side,  that 
we  might  see  if  any  of  them  had  sufficient 
courage  to  remain ;  but,  before  we  were  half 
over  the  river,  which  in  this  part  is  not  more 
than  a  hundred  yards  wide,  two  men  appeared 
on  a  rising  ground  over  against  us,  brandish- 
ing their  spears,  displaying  their  bows  and 
arrows,  and  accompanying  their  hostile  ges- 
tures with  loud  vociferations .  My  interpreter 
did  not  hesitate  to  assure  them,  that  they 
might  dispel  their  apprehensions,  as  we  were 
white  people,  who  meditated  no  injury,  but 
were,  on  the  contrary,  desirous  of  demon- 
88 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AlVIERICA. 

strating  every  mark  of  kindness  and  friend- 
ship. They  did  not,  however,  seem  disposed 
to  confide  in  our  declarations,  and  actually 
threatened,  if  we  came  over  before  they  were 
more  fully  satisfied  of  our  peaceable  inten- 
tions, that  they  would  discharge  their  arrows 
at  us.  This  was  a  decided  kind  of  conduct 
which  I  did  not  expect ;  at  the  same  time  I 
readily  complied  with  their  proposition,  and 
after  some  time  had  passed  in  hearing  and 
answering  their  questions,  they  consented  to 
our  landing,  though  not  without  betraying 
very  evident  symptoms  of  fear  and  distrust. 
They,  however,  laid  aside  their  weapons,  and 
when  I  stepped  forward  and  took  each  of 
them  by  the  hand,  one  of  them,  but  with  a 
very  tremulous  action,  drew  his  knife  from 
his  sleeve,  and  presented  it  to  me  as  a  mark 
of  his  submission  to  my  will  and  pleasure. 
On  our  first  hearing  the  noise  of  these  people 
in  the  woods,  we  displayed  our  flag,  which 
was  now  shewn  to  them  as  a  token  of  friend- 
ship. They  examined  us,  and  every  thing 
about  us,  with  a  minute  and  suspicious  atten- 
tion. They  had  heard,  indeed,  of  white  men, 
but  this  was  the  first  time  that  they  had  ever 
seen  a  human  being  of  a  complexion  different 
from  their  own.  The  party  had  been  here 
but  a  few  hours;  nor  had  they  yet  erected 
their  sheds;  and,  except  the  two  men  now 
with  us,  they  had  all  fled,  leaving  their  little 
89 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

property  behind  them.  To  those  which  had 
given  us  such  a  proof  of  their  confidence,  we 
paid  the  most  conciliating  attentions  in  our 
power.  One  of  them  I  sent  to  recall  his  peo- 
ple, and  the  other,  for  very  obvious  reasons, 
we  kept  with  us.  In  the  mean  time  the  canoe 
was  unloaded,  the  necessary  baggage  carried 
up  the  hill,  and  the  tents  pitched. 

Here  I  determined  to  remain  till  the  In- 
dians became  so  familiarized  to  us,  as  to  give 
all  the  intelligence  which  we  imagined  might 
be  obtained  from  them.  In  fact,  it  had  been 
my  intention  to  land  where  I  might  most 
probably  discover  the  carrying-place,  which 
was  our  more  immediate  object,  and  under- 
take marches  of  two  or  three  days,  in  differ- 
ent directions,  in  search  of  another  river.  If 
unsuccessful  in  this  attempt,  it  was  my  pur- 
pose to  continue  my  progress  up  the  present 
river,  as  far  as  it  was  navigable,  and  if  we 
did  not  meet  with  natives  to  instruct  us  in 
our  further  progress,  I  had  determined  to  re- 
turn to  the  fork,  and  take  the  other  branch, 
with  the  hope  of  better  fortune. 

It  was  about  three  in  the  afternoon  when 
we  landed,  and  at  five  the  whole  party  of  In- 
dians were  assembled.  It  consisted  only  of 
three  men,  three  women,  and  seven  or  eight 
boys  and  girls.  "With  their  scratched  legs, 
bleeding  feet,  and  dishevelled  hair,  as  in  the 
hurry  of  their  flight  they  had  left  their  shoes 
90 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  A:MERICA. 

and  leggins  behind  them,  they  displayed  a 
most  wretched  appearance:  they  were  con- 
soled, however,  with  beads,  and  other  trifles, 
which  seemed  to  please  them ;  they  had  pem- 
mican  also  given  them  to  eat,  which  was  not 
unwelcome,  and  in  our  opinion,  at  least,  su- 
perior to  their  own  provision,  which  consisted 
entirely  of  dried  fish. 

When  I  thought  that  they  were  sufficiently 
composed,  I  sent  for  the  men  to  my  tent,  to 
gain  such  information  respecting  the  country 
as  I  concluded  it  was  in  their  power  to  afford 
me.  But  my  expectations  were  by  no  means 
satisfied:  they  said  that  they  were  not  ac- 
quainted with  any  river  to  the  Westward,  but 
that  there  was  one  from  whence  they  were 
just  arrived,  over  a  carrying-place  of  eleven 
days  march,  which  they  re^Dresented  as  being 
a  branch  only  of  the  river  before  us.  Their 
iron-work  they  obtained  from  the  people  who 
inhabit  the  bank  of  that  river,  and  an  adjacent 
lake,  in  exchange  for  beaver  skins,  and  dressed 
moose  skins.  They  represented  the  latter  as 
travelling,  during  a  moon,  to  get  to  the  coun- 
try of  other  tribes,  who  live  in  houses,  with 
whom  they  traffic  for  the  same  commodities ; 
and  that  these  also  extend  their  journies  in 
the  same  manner  to  the  sea  coast,  or,  to  use 
their  expression,  the  Stinking  Lake,  where 
they  trade  with  people  like  us,  that  come 
there  in  vessels  as  big  as  islands.  They 
91 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

added,  that  the  people  to  the  Westward,  as 
they  have  been  told,  are  very  numerous. 
Those  who  inhabit  the  other  branch  they 
stated  as  consisting  of  about  forty  families, 
while  they  themselves  did  not  amount  to 
more  than  a  fourth  of  that  number ;  and  were 
almost  continually  compelled  to  remain  in 
their  strong  holds,  where  they  sometimes 
perished  with  cold  and  hunger,  to  secure 
themselves  from  their  enemies,  who  never 
failed  to  attack  them  whenever  an  opportu- 
nity presented  itself. 

This  account  of  the  country,  from  a  people 
who  I  had  every  reason  to  suppose  were  well 
acquainted  with  every  part  of  it,  threatened 
to  disconcert  the  project  on  which  my  heart 
was  set,  and  in  which  my  whole  mind  was 
occupied.  It  occurred  to  me,  however,  that 
from  fear,  or  other  motives,  they  might  be 
tardy  in  their  communication ;  I  therefore  as- 
sured them  that,  if  they  would  direct  me  to 
the  river  which  I  described  to  them,  I  would 
come  in  large  vessels,  like  those  that  their 
neighbours  had  described,  to  the  mouth  of  it, 
and  bring  them  arms  and  ammunition  in  ex- 
change for  the  produce  of  their  country ;  so 
that  they  might  be  able  to  defend  themselves 
against  their  enemies,  and  no  longer  remain 
in  that  abject,  distressed,  and  fugitive  state 
in  which  they  then  lived.  I  added  also,  that 
in  the  mean  time,  if  they  would,  on  my  re- 
92 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AlVEERICA. 

turn,  accompany  me  below  the  mountains,  ta 
a  country  which  was  very  abundant  in  ani- 
mals, I  would  furnish  them,  and  their  com- 
panions, with  every  thing  they  might  want ; 
and  make  peace  between  them  and  the  Beaver 
Indians.  But  all  these  promises  did  not  ap- 
pear to  advance  the  object  of  my  inquiries, 
and  they  still  persisted  in  their  ignorance  of 
any  such  river  as  I  had  mentioned,  that  dis- 
charged itself  into  the  sea. 

In  this  state  of  perplexity  and  disappoint- 
ment, various  projects  presented  themselves 
to  my  mind,  which  were  no  sooner  formed 
than  they  were  discovered  to  be  impractica- 
ble, and  were  consequently  abandoned.  At 
one  time  I  thought  of  leaving  the  canoe,  and 
every  thing  it  contained,  to  go  over  land,  and 
pursue  that  chain  of  connexion  by  which  these 
people  obtain  their  iron- work ;  but  a  very  brief 
course  of  reflection  convinced  me  that  it  would 
be  impossible  for  us  to  carry  provisions  for 
our  support  through  any  considerable  part  of 
such  a  journey,  as  well  as  presents,  to  secure 
us  a  kind  reception  among  the  natives,  and 
ammunition  for  the  service  of  the  hunters, 
and  to  defend  ourselves  against  any  act  of 
hostility.  At  another  time  my  solicitude  for 
the  success  of  the  expedition  incited  a  wish  to 
remain  with  the  natives,  and  go  to  the  sea  by 
the  way  they  had  described ;  but  the  accom- 
plishment of  such  a  journey,  even  if  no  acci- 
93 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

dent  should  interpose,  would  have  required  a 
portion  of  time  which  it  was  not  in  my  power 
to  bestow.  In  my  present  state  of  informa- 
tion, to  proceed  further  up  the  river  was  con- 
sidered as  a  fruitless  waste  of  toilsome  exer- 
tion ;  and  to  return  unsuccessful,  after  all  our 
labour,  sufferings,  and  dangers,  was  an  idea 
too  painful  to  indulge.  Besides,  I  could  not 
yet  abandon  the  hope  that  the  Indians  might 
not  yet  be  sufficiently  composed  and  confi- 
dent, to  disclose  their  real  knowledge  of  the 
country  freely  and  fully  to  me.  Nor  was  I 
altogether  without  my  doubts  respecting  the 
fidelity  of  my  interpreter,  who  being  very 
much  tired  of  the  voyage,  might  be  induced 
to  withhold  those  communications  which 
would  induce  me  to  continue  it.  I  therefore 
continued  my  attentions  to  the  natives,  re- 
galed them  with  such  provisions  as  I  had,  in- 
dulged their  children  with  a  taste  of  sugar, 
and  determined  to  suspend  my  conversation 
with  them  till  the  following  mornmg.  On 
my  expressmg  a  desire  to  partake  of  their 
fish,  they  brought  me  a  few  dried  trout,  well 
cured,  that  had  been  taken  in  the  river  which 
they  lately  left.  One  of  the  men  also  brought 
me  five  beaver  skins,  as  a  present. 

Monday,  10. — The  solicitude  that  possessed 

my  mind  interrupted  my  repose;  when  the 

dawn  appeared  I  had  already  quitted  my  bed, 

and  was  waiting  with  impatience  for  another 

94 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AlVIERICA. 

conference  with  the  natives.  The  sun,  how- 
ever, had  risen  before  they  left  their  leafy 
bowers,  whither  they  had  retired  with  their 
children,  having  most  hospitably  resigned 
their  beds,  and  the  partners  of  them,  to  the 
solicitations  of  my  young  men. 

I  now  repeated  my  inquiries,  but  my  per- 
plexity was  not  removed  by  any  favourable 
variation  in  their  answers.  About  nine,  how- 
ever, one  of  them,  still  remaining  at  my  fire, 
in  conversation  with  the  interpreters,  I  un- 
derstood enough  of  his  language  to  know  that 
he  mentioned  something  about  a  great  river, 
at  the  same  time  pointing  significantly  up 
that  which  was  before  us.  On  my  inquiring 
of  the  interpreter  respecting  that  expression, 
I  was  informed  that  he  knew  of  a  large  river, 
that  runs  towards  the  mid-day  sun,  a  branch 
of  which  flowed  near  the  source  of  that  which 
we  were  now  navigating ;  and  that  there  were 
only  three  small  lakes,  and  as  many  carrying- 
places,  leading  to  a  small  river,  which  dis- 
charges itself  into  the  great  river,  but  that 
the  latter  did  not  empty  itself  into  the  sea. 
The  inhabitants,  he  said,  built  houses,  lived 
on  islands,  and  were  a  numerous  and  warlike 
people.  I  desired  him  to  describe  the  road  to 
the  other  river,  by  delineating  it  with  a  piece 
of  coal,  on  a  strip  of  bark,  which  he  accom- 
plished to  my  satisfaction.  The  opinion  that 
the  river  did  not  discharge  itself  into  the  sea, 
95 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

I  very  confidently  imputed  to  his  ignorance 
of  the  country. 

My  hopes  were  now  renewed,  and  an  object 
presented  itself  which  awakened  my  utmost 
impatience.  To  facilitate  its  attainment,  one 
of  the  Indians  was  induced,  by  presents,  to 
accompany  me  as  a  guide  to  the  first  inhabi- 
tants, which  we  might  expect  to  meet  on  the 
small  lakes  in  our  way.  I  accordingly  re- 
solved to  depart  with  all  expedition,  and 
while  my  people  were  making  every  necessary 
preparation,  I  employed  myself  in  writing  the 
following  description  of  the  natives  around 
me: 

They  are  low  in  stature,  not  exceeding  five 
feet  six  or  seven  inches ;  and  they  are  of  that 
meagre  appearance  which  might  be  expected 
in  a  people  whose  life  is  one  sucession  of  diffi- 
culties, in  procuring  subsistence.  Their  faces 
are  round,  with  high  cheek  bones;  and  their 
eyes,  which  are  small,  are  of  a  dark  brown 
colour;  the  cartilage  of  their  nose  is  perfor- 
ated, but  without  any  ornaments  suspended 
from  it ;  their  hair  is  of  a  dingy  black,  hang- 
ing loose  and  in  disorder  over  their  shoulders, 
but  irregularly  cut  in  the  front,  so  as  not  to 
obstruct  the  sight;  their  beards  are  eradi- 
cated, with  the  exception  of  a  few  straggling 
hairs,  and  their  complexion  is  a  swarthy  yel- 
low. 

Their  dress  consists  of  robes  made  of  the 
96 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

skins  of  the  beaver,  the  ground-hog  and  the 
rein -deer,  dressed  in  the  hair,  and  of  the 
moose-skin  without  it.  All  of  them  are  orna- 
mented with  a  fringe,  while  some  of  them 
have  tassels  hanging  down  the  seams ;  those 
of  the  ground-hog  are  decorated  on  the  fur 
side  with  the  tails  of  the  animal,  which  they 
do  not  separate  from  them.  Their  garments 
they  tie  over  the  shoulders,  and  fasten  them 
round  the  middle  with  a  belt  of  green  skin, 
which  is  as  stiff  as  horn.  Their  leggins  are 
long,  and,  if  they  were  topped  with  a  waist- 
band, might  be  called  trowsers :  they,  as  well 
as  their  shoes,  are  made  of  dressed  moose, 
elk,  or  rein-deer  skin.  The  organs  of  gener- 
ation they  leave  uncovered. 

The  women  differ  little  in  their  dress,  from 
the  men,  except  in  the  addition  of  an  apron, 
which  is  fastened  round  the  waist,  and  hangs 
down  to  the  knees.  They  are  in  general  of  a 
more  lusty  make  than  the  other  sex,  and 
taller  in  proportion,  but  infinitely  their  in- 
feriors in  cleanliness.  A  black  artificial 
stripe  crosses  the  face  beneath  the  eye,  from 
ear  to  ear,  which  I  first  took  for  scabs,  from 
the  accumulation  of  dirt  on  it.  Their  hair, 
which  is  longer  than  that  of  the  men,  is  di- 
vided from  the  forehead  to  the  crown,  and 
drawn  back  in  long  plaits  behind  the  ears. 
They  have  also  a  few  white  beads,  which  they 

get  where  they  procure  their  iron :  they  are 
Vol.  II.— 7  97 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

from  a  line  to  an  inch  in  length,  and  are  worn 
in  their  ears,  but  are  not  of  European  manu- 
facture. These,  with  bracelets  made  of  horn 
and  bone,  compose  all  the  ornaments  which 
decorate  their  persons.  Necklaces  of  the 
grisly  or  white  bear's  claws,  are  worn  exclu- 
sively by  the  men. 

Their  arms  consist  of  bows  made  of  cedar, 
six  feet  in  length,  with  a  short  iron  spike  at 
one  end,  and  serve  occasionally  as  a  spear. 
Their  arrows  are  well  made,  barbed,  and 
pointed  with  iron,  flint,  stone,  or  bone ;  they 
are  feathered,  and  from  two  or  two  feet  and 
a  half  in  length.  They  have  two  kinds  of 
spears,  but  both  are  double  edged,  and  of 
well  polished  iron;  one  of  them  is  about 
twelve  inches  long,  and  two  wide ;  the  other 
about  half  the  width,  and  two  thirds  of  the 
length ;  the  shafts  of  the  first  are  eight  feet 
in  length,  and  the  latter  six.  They  have  also 
spears  made  of  bone.  Their  knives  consist 
of  pieces  of  iron,  shaped  and  handled  by 
themselves.  Their  axes  are  something  like 
our  adze,  and  they  use  them  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  we  employ  that  instrument.  They 
were,  indeed,  furnished  with  iron  in  a  manner 
that  I  could  not  have  supposed,  and  plainly 
proved  to  me  that  their  communication  with 
those,  who  communicate  with  the  inhabitants 
of  the  sea  coast,  cannot  be  very  difficult,  and 
from  their  ample  provision  of  iron  weapons, 
98 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  A3IERICA. 

the  means  of  procuring  it  must  be  of  a  more 
distant  origin  than  I  had  at  first  conjectured. 
They  have  snares  made  of  green  skin, 
which  they  cut  to  the  size  of  sturgeon  twine, 
and  twist  a  certain  number  of  them  together; 
and  though  when  completed  they  do  not  exceed 
the  thickness  of  a  cod-line,  their  strength  is 
sufficient  to  hold  a  moose-deer ;  they  are  from 
one  and  a  half  to  two  fathoms  in  length.  Their 
nets  and  fishing-lines  are  made  of  willow- 
bark  and  nettles ;  those  made  of  the  latter  are 
finer  and  smoother  than  if  made  with  hempen 
thread.  Their  hooks  are  small  bones,  fixed 
in  pieces  of  wood  split  for  that  purpose,  and 
tied  round  with  fine  watape,  which  has  been 
particularly  described  in  the  former  voyage. 
Their  kettles  are  also  made  of  watape,  which 
is  so  closely  woven  that  they  never  leak,  and 
they  heat  water  in  them,  by  putting  red-hot 
stones  into  it.  There  is  one  kind  of  them, 
made  of  spruce -bark,  which  they  hang  over 
the  fire,  but  at  such  a  distance  as  to  receive 
the  heat  without  being  within  reach  of  the 
blaze ;  a  very  tedious  operation.  They  have 
various  dishes  of  wood  and  bark ;  spoons  of 
horn  and  wood,  and  buckets ;  bags  of  leather 
and  net-work,  and  baskets  of  bark,  some  of 
which  hold  their  fishing-tackle,  while  others 
are  contrived  to  be  carried  on  the  back.  They 
have  a  brown  kind  of  earth  in  great  abund- 
ance, with  which  they  rub  their  clothes,  not 
99 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

only  for  ornament  but  utility,  as  it  prevents 
the  leather  from  becoming  hard  after  it  has 
been  wetted.  They  have  spruce  bark  in  great 
plenty,  with  which  they  make  their  canoes, 
an  operation  that  does  not  require  any  great 
portion  of  skill  or  ingenuity,  and  is  managed 
in  the  following  manner. — The  bark  is  taken 
off  the  tree  the  whole  length  of  the  intended 
canoe,  which  is  commonly  about  eighteen  feet, 
and  is  sewed  with  watape  at  both  ends ;  two 
laths  are  then  laid,  and  fixed  along  the  edge 
of  the  bark  which  forms  the  gunwale;  in 
these  are  fixed  the  bars,  and  against  them 
bear  the  ribs  or  timbers,  that  are  cut  to  the 
length  to  which  the  bark  can  be  stretched; 
and,  to  give  additional  strength,  strips  of 
wood  are  laid  between  them:  to  make  the 
whole  water-tight,  gum  is  abundantly  em- 
ployed. These  vessels  carry  from  two  to  five 
people.  Canoes  of  a  similar  construction 
were  used  by  the  Beaver  Indians  within  these 
few  years,  but  they  now  very  generally  em- 
ploy those  made  of  the  bark  of  the  birch  tree, 
which  are  by  far  more  durable.  Their  pad- 
dles are  about  six  feet  long,  and  about  one 
foot  is  occupied  by  the  blade,  which  is  in  the 
shape  of  an  heart. 

Previous  to  our  departure,  the  natives  had 

caught  a  couple  of  trout,  of  about  six  pounds 

weight,  which  they  brought  me,  and  I  paid 

them  with  beads.     They  likewise  gave  me  a 

100 


NORTH-WEST  CONTIISrENT  OF  AMERICA, 

net,  made  of  nettles,  the  skin  of  a  moose- 
deer,  dressed,  and  a  white  horn  in  the  shape  of 
a  spoon  which  resembles  the  horn  of  the  buf- 
falo of  the  Copper-Mine-River ;  but  their  de- 
scription of  the  animal  to  which  it  belongs  does 
not  answer  to  that.  My  young  men  also  got 
two  quivers  of  excellent  arrows,  a  collar  of 
white  bear's  claws,  of  a  great  length,  horn 
bracelets,  and  other  articles,  for  which  they 
received  an  ample  remuneration. 


101 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 


CHAPTER   V. 

JU:N"E,  1793. 

Monday,  10. — At  ten  we  were  ready  to  em- 
bark. I  tlien  took  leave  of  the  Indians,  but 
encouraged  tliem  to  expect  us  in  two  moons, 
and  expressed  an  hope  that  I  should  find  them 
on  the  road  with  any  of  their  relations  whom 
they  might  meet.  I  also  returned  the  beaver 
skins  to  the  man  who  had  presented  them  to 
me,  desiring  him  to  take  care  of  them  till  I 
came  back,  when  I  would  purchase  them  of 
him.  Our  guide  expressed  much  less  concern 
about  the  undertaking  in  which  he  had  en- 
gaged, than  his  companions,  who  appeared  to 
be  affected  with  great  solicitude  for  his  safety. 

We  now  pushed  off  the  canoe  from  the 
bank,  and  proceeded  East  half  a  mile,  when 
a  river  flowed  in  from  the  left,  about  half  as 
large  as  that  which  we  were  navigating.  We 
continued  the  same  course  three  quarters  of 
a  mile,  when  we  missed  two  of  our  fowling 
pieces,  which  had  been  forgotten,  and  I  sent 
their  owners  back  for  them,  who  were  absent 
on  this  errand  upwards  of  an  hour.  We  now 
proceeded  North-East  by  East  half  a  mile, 
North-East  by  North  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
when  the  current  slackened ;  there  was  a  ver- 
102 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

dant  spot  on  the  left,  where,  from  the  remains 
of  some  Indian  timber-work,  it  appeared, 
that  the  natives  have  frequently  encamped. 
Our  next  course  was  East  one  mile,  and  we 
saw  a  ridge  of  mountains  covered  with  snow 
to  the  South-East.  The  land  on  our  right 
was  low  and  marshy  for  three  or  four  miles, 
when  it  rose  into  a  range  of  heights  that  ex- 
tended to  the  mountains.  We  proceeded 
East-South-East  a  mile  and  a  half,  South- 
East  by  East  one  mile.  East  by  South  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  South-East  by  East  one 
mile.  East  by  South  half  a  mile,  North-East 
by  East  one  mile,  South-East  half  a  mile, 
East-North-East  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  South- 
South-East  half  a  mile,  North-North-East  a 
mile  and  a  half :  here  a  river  flowed  in  from 
the  left,  which  was  about  one-fourth  part  as 
large  as  that  which  received  its  tributary 
waters.  We  then  continued  East  by  South 
half  a  mile,  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  on 
the  South  of  the  above  river.  The  course 
now  veered  short.  South- West  by  West  three 
quarters  of  a  mile.  East  by  South  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  South  half  a  mile,  South-East  by 
South  half  a  mile,  South-West  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  East  by  South  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
veered  to  West-North- West  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  South-West  one  eighth  of  a  mile,  East- 
South-East  one  quarter  of  a  mile.  East  one 
sixth  of  a  mile.  South- South-West  one  twelfth 
103 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

of  a  mile,  East-South-East  one  eighth,  of  a 
mile,  North-East  by  East  one  third  of  a  mile. 
East  by  North  one  twelfth  of  a  mile,  North- 
East  by  East  one  third  of  a  mile,  East  one 
sixteenth  of  a  mile,  South-East  one  twelfth 
of  a  mile,  North-East  by  East  one  twelfth  of 
a  mile.  East  one  eighth  of  a  mile,  and  East- 
South-East  half  a  mile,  when  we  landed  at 
seven  o'clock  and  encamped.  During  the 
greatest  part  of  the  distance  we  came  to-day, 
the  river  runs  close  under  the  mountains  on 
the  left. 

Wednesday,  12. — The  morning  was  clear 
and  cold.  On  my  interpreter's  encouraging 
the  guide  to  dis^^el  all  apprehension,  to  main- 
tain his  fidelity  to  me,  and  not  to  desert  in 
the  night,  "How  is  it  possible  for  me,"  he 
replied,  "to  leave  the  lodge  of  the  Great 
"  Spirit ! — When  he  tells  me  that  he  has  no 
"  further  occasion  for  me,  I  will  then  return 
"to  my  children."  As  we  proceeded,  how- 
ever, he  soon  lost,  and  with  good  reason,  his 
exalted  notions  of  me. 

At  four  we  continued  our  voyage,  steering 
East  by  South  a  mile  and  a  half,  East-South- 
East  half  a  mile.  A  river  appeared  on  the 
left,  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  which,  from 
its  conical  form,  my  young  Indian  called  the 
Beaver  Lodge  Mountain.  Having  proceeded 
South-South-East  half  a  mile,  another  river 
appeared  from  the  right.  We  now  came  in  a 
104 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OP  AMERICA. 

line  with  the  beginning  of  the  mountains  we 
saw  yesterday :  others  of  the  same  kind  ran 
parallel  with  them  on  the  left  side  of  the 
river,  which  was  reduced  to  the  breadth  of 
fifteen  yards,  and  with  a  moderate  current. 

We  now  steered  East-North -East  one  eighth 
of  a  mile,  South-East  by  South  one  eighth  of 
a  mile,  East-South-East  one  sixth  of  a  mile, 
South-West  one  eighth  of  a  mile,  East-South- 
East  one  eighth  of  a  mile,  South-South-East 
one  sixth  of  a  mile,  North-East  by  East  one 
twelfth  of  a  mile,  East-South-East  half  a 
mile,  South-West  by  West  one  third  of  a 
mile,  South-South-East  one  eighth  of  a  mile, 
South-South-West  one  quarter  of  a  mile, 
North-East  one  sixth  of  a  mile,  South  by 
West  one  fourth  of  a  mile.  East  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile,  and  North-East  one  quarter  of 
a  mile.  Here  the  mountain  on  the  left  ap- 
peared to  be  composed  of  a  succession  of 
round  hills,  covered  with  wood  almost  to 
their  summits,  which  were  white  with  snow, 
and  crowned  with  withered  trees.  We  now 
steered  East,  in  a  line  with  the  high  lands  on 
the  right  five  miles ;  North  one  twelfth  of  a 
mile,  North-East  by  North  one  eighth  of  a 
mile.  South  by  East  one  sixteenth  of  a  mile, 
North-East  by  North  one  fourth  of  a  mile, 
where  another  river  fell  in  from  the  right; 
North-East  by  East  one  sixth  of  a  mile,  East 
two  miles  and  a  half.  South  one  twelfth  of  a 
105 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

mile,  North-East  half  a  mile,  South-East  one 
third  of  a  mile,  East  one  mile  and  a  quar- 
ter, South-South-West  one  sixteenth  of  a 
mile,  North-East  by  East  half  a  mile.  East 
one  mile  and  three  quarters,  South  and  South- 
West  by  West  half  a  mile,  North-East  half  a 
mile.  South  one  third  of  a  mile,  North-East 
by  North  one  sixth  of  a  mile,  East  by  South 
one  fourth  of  a  mile.  South  one  eighth  of  a 
mile,  South-East  three  quarters  of  a  mile. 
The  canoe  had  taken  in  so  much  water,  that 
it  was  necessary  for  us  to  land  here,  in  or- 
der to  stop  the  leakage,  which  occasioned  the 
delay  of  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  North-East  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  East-North-East  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  South-East  by  South  a  sixteenth  of 
a  mile,  East  by  South  a  twelfth  of  a  mile, 
North-East  one  sixth  of  a  mile,  East-South- 
East  one  sixteenth  of  a  mile,  South-West  half 
a  mile,  North-East  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  East 
by  South  half  a  mile,  South-South-East  one 
tweKth  of  a  mile.  East  half  a  mile,  North- 
East  by  North  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  South- 
South-East  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  North-East 
by  North  one  twelfth  of  a  mile,  where  a  small 
river  flowed  in  from  the  left,  South-East  by 
East  one  twelfth  of  a  mile.  South  by  East  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  South-East  one  eighth  of  a 
mile.  East  one  twelfth  of  a  mile,  North-East 
by  North  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  South  half  a 
mile,  South-East  by  South  one  eighth  of  a 
106 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OP  AMERICA. 

mile,  North-East  one  fourth  of  a  mile,  South- 
East  by  East,  and  Soutli-East  by  South  one 
third  of  a  mile,  East-South-East,  and  North- 
North-East  one  third  of  a  mile,  and  South  by 
West,  East  and  East-North-East  one  eighth 
of  a  mile. 

Here  we  quitted  the  main  branch,  which, 
according  to  the  information  of  our  guide, 
terminates  at  a  short  distance,  where  it  is 
supplied  by  the  snow  which  covers  the  moun- 
tains. In  the  same  direction  is  a  valley 
which  appears  to  be  of  very  great  depth,  and 
is  full  of  snow,  that  rises  nearly  to  the  height 
of  the  land,  and  forms  a  reservoir  of  itself 
sufficient  to  furnish  a  river,  whenever  there  is 
a  moderate  degree  of  heat.  The  branch  which 
we  left  was  not,  at  this  time,  more  than  ten 
yards  broad,  while  that  which  we  entered  was 
still  less.  Here  the  current  was  very  trifling, 
and  the  channel  so  meandering,  that  we  some- 
times found  it  difficult  to  work  the  canoe  for- 
ward. The  straight  course  from  this  to  the 
entrance  of  a  small  lake  or  pond,  is  about 
East  one  mile.  This  entrance  by  the  river 
into  the  lake  was  almost  choked  up  by  a  quan- 
tity of  drift-wood,  which  appeared  to  me  to 
be  an  extraordinary  circumstance :  but  I  after- 
wards found  that  it  falls  down  from  the 
mountains.  The  water,  however,  was  so  high, 
that  the  country  was  entirely  overflowed,  and 
we  passed  with  the  eanoe  among  the  branches 
107 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

of  trees.  The  principal  wood  along  the  banks 
is  spruce,  intermixed  with  a  few  white  birch, 
growing  on  detached  spots,  the  intervening 
spaces  being  covered  with  willow  and  alder. 
We  advanced  about  a  mile  in  the  lake,  and 
took  up  our  station  for  the  night  at  an  old 
Indian  encampment.  Here  we  expected  to 
meet  with  natives,  but  were  disappointed; 
but  our  guide  encouraged  us  with  the  hope  of 
seeing  some  on  the  morrow.  We  saw  beaver 
in  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  but  did  not 
discharge  our  pieces  from  the  fear  of  alarm- 
ing the  inhabitants ;  there  were  also  swans  in 
great  numbers,  with  geese  and  ducks,  which 
we  did  not  disturb  for  the  same  reason.  We 
observed  also  the  tracks  of  moose-deer  that 
had  crossed  the  river ;  and  wild  parsnips  grew 
here  in  abundance,  which  have  been  already- 
mentioned  as  a  grateful  vegetable.  Of  birds, 
we  saw  bluejays,  yellow  birds,  and  one  beau- 
tiful humming-bird ;  of  the  first  and  last,  I 
had  not  seen  any  since  I  had  been  in  the 
North- West. 

The  weather  was  the  same  as  yesterday, 
and  we  proceeded  between  three  and  four  in 
the  morning.  We  took  up  the  net  which  we 
had  set  the  preceding  evening,  when  it  cou' 
tatned  a  trout,  one  white  fish,  one  carp,  and 
three  jub.  The  lake  is  about  two  miles  in 
length.  East  by  South,  and  from  three  to  five 
hundred  yards  wide.  This  I  consider  as  the 
108 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

highest  and  Southernmost  source  of  the  Unji- 
gah,  or  Peace  Kiver,  latitude,  54.  24.  North, 
longitude  121.  West  from  Greenwich,  which, 
after  a  winding  course  through  a  vast  extent 
of  country,  receiving  many  large  rivers  in  its 
progress,  and  passing  through  the  Slave  Lake, 
empties  itself  into  the  Frozen  Ocean,  in  70. 
North  latitude,  and  about  135.  West  longi- 
tude. 

We  landed  and  unloaded,  where  we  found 
a  beaten  path  leading  over  a  low  ridge  of 
land  eight  hundred  and  seventeen  paces  in 
length,  to  another  small  lake.  The  distance 
between  the  two  mountains  at  this  place  is 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  rocky  precipices 
presenting  themselves  on  both  sides.  A  few 
large  spruce  trees  and  liards  were  scattered 
over  the  carrying-place.  There  were  also  wil- 
lows along  the  side  of  the  water,  with  plenty 
of  grass  and  weeds.  The  natives  had  left 
their  old  canoes  here,  with  baskets  hanging 
on  the  trees,  which  contained  various  articles. 
From  the  latter  I  took  a  net,  some  hooks,  a 
goats' -horn,  and  a  kind  of  wooden  trap,  in 
which,  as  our  guide  informed  me,  the  ground- 
hog is  taken.  I  left,  however,  in  exchange,  a 
knife,  some  fire-steels,  beads,  awls,  &c.  Here 
two  streams  tumble  down  the  rocks  from  the 
right,  and  lose  themselves  in  the  lake  which 
we  had  left ;  while  two  others  fall  from  the 
opposite  heights,  and  glide  into  the  lake 
109 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

whicli  we  were  approaching;  this  being  the 
highest  point  of  land  dividing  these  waters, 
and  we  are  now  going  with  the  stream.  This 
laJie  runs  in  the  same  course  as  the  last,  but 
is  rather  narrower,  and  not  more  than  half 
the  length.  We  were  obliged  to  clear  away 
some  floating  drift-wood  to  get  to  the  carry- 
ing-place, over  which  is  a  beaten  path  of  only 
an  hundred  and  seventy-five  paces  long.  The 
lake  emi)ties  itself  by  a  small  river,  which, 
if  the  channel  were  not  interrupted  by  large 
trees  that  had  fallen  across  it,  would  have 
admitted  of  our  canoe  with  all  its  lading :  the 
impediment,  indeed,  might  have  been  removed 
by  two  axemen  in  a  few  hours.  On  the  edge 
of  the  water,  we  observed  a  large  quantity  of 
thick  yellow,  scum  or  froth,  of  an  acrid  taste 
and  smell 

We  embarked  on  this  lake,  which  is  in  the 
same  course,  and  about  the  same  size  as  that 
which  we  had  just  left,  and  from  whence  we 
passed  into  a  small  river,  that  was  so  full  of 
fallen  wood,  as  to  employ  some  time,  and  re- 
quire some  exertion,  to  force  a  passage.  At 
the  entrance,  it  afforded  no  more  water  than 
was  just  sufficient  to  bear  the  canoe ;  but  it 
was  soon  increased  by  many  small  streams 
which  came  in  broken  rills  down  the  rugged 
sides  of  the  mountains,  a,nd  were  furnished, 
as  I  suppose,  by  the  melting  of  the  snow. 
These  accessory  streaijilets  had  all  the  cold- 
110 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

ness  of  ice.  Our  course  continued  to  be  ob- 
structed by  banks  of  gravel,  as  well  as  trees 
which  had  fallen'  across  the  river.  We  were 
obliged  to  force  our  way  through  the  one,  and 
to  cut  through  the  other,  at  a  great  expense 
of  time  and  trouble.  In  many  places  the  cur- 
rent was  also  very  rapid  and  meandering. 
At  four  in  the  afternoon,  we  stopped  to  un- 
load and  carry,  and  at  five  we  entered  a  small 
round  lake  of  about  one  third  of  a  mile  in 
diameter.  From  the  last  lake  to  this  is,  I 
think,  in  a  straight  line.  East  by  South  six 
miles,  though  it  i.:  twice  that  distance  by  the 
winding  of  the  river.  We  again  entered  the 
river,  which  soon  ran  with  great  rapidity,  and 
rushed  impetuously  over  a  bed  of  flat  stones. 
At  half  past  six  we  were  stopped  by  two  large 
trees  that  lay  across  the  river,  and  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  that  the  canoe  was  pre- 
vented from  driving  against  them.  Here  we 
unloaded  and  formed  our  encampment. 

The  weather  was  cloudy  and  raw,  and  as 
the  circumstances  of  this  day's  voyage  had 
compelled  us  to  be  frequently  in  the  water, 
which  was  cold  as  ice,  we  were  almost  in  a 
benumbed  state.  Some  of  the  people  who  had 
gone  ashore  to  lighten  the  canoe,  experienced 
great  difficulty  in  reaching  us,  from  the  rug- 
ged state  of  the  country;  it  was,  indeed,  al- 
most dark  when  they  arrived.  We  had  no 
sooner  landed  than  I  sent  two  men  down  the 
111 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

river  to  bring  me  some  account  of  its  circum- 
stances, that  I  might  form  a  judgment  of  the 
difficulties  which  might  await  us  on  the  mor- 
row ;  and  they  brought  back  a  fearful  detail 
of  rapid  currents,  fallen  trees,  and  large 
stones.  At  this  place  our  guide  manifested 
evident  symptoms  of  discontent :  he  had  been 
very  much  alarmed  in  going  down  some  of 
the  rapids  with  us,  and  expressed  an  anxiety 
to  return.  He  shewed  us  a  mountain,  at  no 
great  distance,  which  he  represented  as  being 
on  the  other  side  of  a  river,  into  which  this 
empties  itself. 

Thursday,  13. — At  an  early  hour  of  this 
morning  the  men  began  to  cut  a  road,  in  or- 
der to  carry  the  canoe  and  lading  beyond  the 
rapid ;  and  by  seven  they  were  ready.  That 
business  was  soon  effected,  and  the  canoe  re- 
laden,  to  proceed  with  the  current  which  ran 
with  great  rapidity.  In  order  to  lighten  her, 
it  was  my  intention  to  walk  with  some  of  the 
people;  but  those  in  the  boat  with  great 
earnestness  requested  me  to  embark,  declar- 
ing, at  the  same  time,  that,  if  they  perished,  I 
should  perish  with  them.  I  did  not  then 
imagine  in  how  short  a  period  their  appre- 
hension would  be  justified.  We  accordingly 
pushed  off,  and  had  proceeded  but  a  very 
short  way  when  the  canoe  struck,  and  not- 
withstanding all  our  exertions,  the  violence 
of  the  current  was  so  great  as  to  drive  her 
112 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA.  ^ 

sideways  down  the  river,  and  break  her  by  the 
first  bar,  when  I  instantly  jumped  into  the 
water,  and  the  men  followed  my  example; 
but  before  we  could  set  her  straight,  or  stop 
her,  we  came  to  deeper  water,  so  that  we 
were  obliged  to  re-embark  with  the  utmost 
precipitation.  One  of  the  men  who  was  not 
sufficiently  active,  was  left  to  get  on  shore  in 
the  best  manner  in  his  power.  We  had  hardly 
regained  our  situations  when  we  drove  against 
a  rock  which  shattered  the  stern  of  the  canoe 
in  such  a  manner,  that  it  held  only  by  the 
gunwales,  so  that  the  steersman  could  no 
longer  keep  his  place.  The  violence  of  this 
stroke  drove  us  to  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  which  is  but  narrow,  when  the  bow  met 
with  the  same  fate  as  the  stern.  At  this  mo- 
ment the  foreman  seized  on  some  branches  of 
a  small  tree  in  the  hope  of  bringing  up  the 
canoe,  but  such  was  their  elasticity  that,  in  a 
manner  not  easily  described,  he  was  jerked 
on  shore  in  an  instant,  and  with  a  degree  of 
violence  that  threatened  his  destruction.  But 
we  had  no  time  to  turn  from  our  own  situa- 
tion to  enquire  what  had  befallen  him ;  for, 
in  a  few  moments,  we  came  across  a  cascade 
which  broke  several  large  holes  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  canoe,  and  started  all  the  bars, 
except  one  behind  the  scooping  seat.  If  this 
accident,  however,    had  not   happened,  the 

vessel  must  have  been  irretrievably  overset. 
Vol.  IL— 8  113 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

The  wreck  becoming  flat  on  the  water,  we  aU 
jumped  out,  while  the  steersman,  who  had 
been  compelled  to  abandon  his  place,  and  had 
not  recovered  from  his  fright,  called  out  to 
his  companions  to  save  themselves.  My  per- 
emptory commands  superseded  the  effects  of 
his  fear,  and  they  all  held  fast  to  the  wreck; 
to  which  fortunate  resolution  we  owed  our 
safety,  as  we  should  otherwise  have  been 
dashed  against  the  rocks  by  the  force  of  the 
water,  or  driven  over  the  cascades.  In  this 
condition  we  were  forced  several  hundred 
yards,  and  every  yard  on  the  verge  of  de- 
struction ;  but,  at  length,  we  most  fortunately 
arrived  in  shallow  water  and  a  small  eddy, 
where  we  were  enabled  to  make  a  stand,  from 
the  weight  of  the  canoe  resting  on  the  stones, 
rather  than  from  any  exertions  of  our  ex- 
hausted strength.  For  though  our  efforts 
were  short,  they  were  pushed  to  the  utmost, 
as  life  or  death  depended  on  them. 

This  alarming  scene,  with  all  its  terrors 
and  dangers,  occupied  only  a  few  minutes; 
and  in  the  present  suspension  of  it,  we  called 
to  the  people  on  shore  to  come  to  our  assist- 
ance, and  they  immediately  obeyed  the  sum- 
mons. The  foreman,  however,  was  the  first 
with  us ;  he  had  escaped  unhurt  from  the  ex- 
traordinary jerk  with  which  he  was  thrown 
out  of  the  boat,  and  just  as  we  were  beginning 
to  take  our  effects  out  of  the  water,  he  ap- 
114 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

peared  to  give  his  assistance.  The  Indians, 
when  they  saw  our  deplorable  situation,  in- 
stead of  making  the  least  effort  to  help  us, 
sat  down  and  gave  vent  to  their  tears.  I  was 
on  the  outside  of  the  canoe,  where  I  remained 
till  every  thing  was  got  on  shore,  in  a  state 
of  great  pain  from  the  extreme  cold  of  the 
water;  so  that  at  length,  it  was  with  diffi- 
culty I  could  stand,  from  the  benumbed  state 
of  my  limbs. 

The  loss  was  considerable  and  important, 
for  it  consisted  of  our  whole  stock  of  balls, 
and  some  of  our  furniture ;  but  these  consid- 
erations were  forgotten  in  the  impressions  of 
our  miraculous  escape.  Our  first  inquiry  was 
after  the  absent  man,  whom  in  the  first  mo- 
ment of  danger,  we  had  left  to  get  on  shore, 
and  in  a  short  time  his  appearance  removed 
our  anxiety.  We  had,  however,  sustained 
no  personal  injury  of  consequence,  and  my 
bruises  seemed  to  be  in  the  greater  propor- 
tion. 

All  the  different  articles  were  now  spread 
out  to  dry.  The  powder  had  fortunately  re- 
ceived no  damage,  and  all  my  instruments 
had  escaped.  Indeed,  when  my  people  began 
to  recover  from  their  alarm,  and  to  enjoy  a 
sense  of  safety,  some  of  them,  if  not  all,  were 
by  no  means  sorry  for  our  late  misfortune, 
from  the  hope  that  it  must  put  a  period  to 
our  voyage,  particularlv  as  we  were  without 
115 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

a  canoe,  and  all  tlie  bullets  sunk  in  the  river. 
It  did  not,  indeed,  seem  possible  to  them  that 
we  could  proceed  under  these  circumstances. 
I  listened,  however,  to  the  observations  that 
were  made  on  the  occasion  without  replying 
to  them,  till  their  panic  was  dispelled,  and 
they  had  got  themselves  warm  and  comfort- 
able, with  an  hearty  meal,  and  rum  enough 
to  raise  their  spirits. 

I  then  addressed  them,  by  recommending 
them  all  to  be  thankful  for  their  late  very 
narrow  escape.  I  also  stated,  that  the  naviga- 
tion was  not  impracticable  in  itself,  but  from 
our  ignorance  of  its  course ;  and  that  our  late 
experience  would  enable  us  to  pursue  our 
voyage  with  greater  security.  I  brought  to 
their  recollection,  that  I  did  not  deceive  them, 
and  that  they  were  made  acquainted  with  the 
difficulties  and  dangers  they  must  expect  to 
encounter,  before  they  engaged  to  accompany 
me.  I  also  urged  the  honour  of  conquering 
disasters,  and  the  disgrace  that  would  attend 
them  on  their  return  home,  without  having 
attained  the  object  of  the  expedition.  Nor 
did  I  fail  to  mention  the  courage  and  resolu- 
tion which  was  the  peculiar  boast  of  the  North 
men ;  and  that  I  depended  on  them,  at  that 
moment,  for  the  maintenance  of  their  char- 
acter. I  quieted  their  apprehension  as  to  the 
loss  of  the  bullets,  by  bringing  to  their  recol- 
lection that  we  still  had  shot  from  which  they 
116 


NORTH-WEST   CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

might  be  manufactured.  I  at  the  same  time 
acknowledged  the  difficulty  of  restoring  the 
wreck  of  the  canoe,  but  confided  in  our  skill 
and  exertion  to  put  it  in  such  a  state  as  would 
carry  uo  on  to  where  we  might  procure  bark, 
and  build  a  new  one.  In  short,  my  harangue 
produced  the  desired  effect,  and  a  very  gen- 
eral assent  appeared  to  go  wherever  I  should 
lead  the  way. 

Various  opinions  were  offered  in  the  present 
posture  of  affairs,  and  it  was  rather  a  gen- 
eral wish  that  the  wreck  should  be  abandoned, 
and  all  the  lading  carried  to  the  river,  which 
our  guide  informed  us  was  at  no  great  di&- 
tance,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  woods  where  he 
believed  there  was  plenty  of  bark.  This  pro- 
ject seemed  not  to  promise  that  certainty  to 
which  I  looked  in  my  present  operations ;  be- 
sides, I  had  my  doubts  respecting  the  views 
of  my  guide,  and  consequently  could  not  con- 
fide in  the  representation  he  made  to  me.  I 
therefore  dispatched  two  of  the  men  at  nine 
in  the  morning,  with  one  of  the  young  In- 
dians, for  I  did  not  venture  to  trust  the  guide 
out  of  my  sight,  in  search  of  bark,  and  to  en- 
deavour, if  it  were  possible,  in  the  course  of 
the  day,  to  penetrate  to  the  great  river,  into 
which  that  before  us  discharges  itself  in  the 
direction  which  the  guide  had  communicated, 
I  now  joined  my  people  in  order  to  repair,  as 
well  as  circumstances  would  admit,  our  wreck 
117 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

of  a  canoe,  and  I  began  to  set  them  the  ex- 
ample. 

At  noon  I  had  an  altitude,  which  gave  54. 
23.  North  latitude.  At  four  in  the  afternoon 
I  took  time,  with  the  hope  that  in  the  night 
I  might  obtain  an  observation  of  Jupiter,  and 
his  satellites,  but  I  had  not  a  sufficient  hori- 
zon, from  the  propinquity  of  the  mountains. 
The  result  of  my  calculation  for  the  time  was 
1.  32.  2S.  slow  apparent  time. 

It  now  grew  late,  and  the  people  who  had 
been  sent  on  the  excursion  already  mentioned, 
were  not  yet  returned;  about  ten  o'clock, 
however,  I  heard  a  man  halloo,  and  I  very 
gladly  returned  the  signal.  In  a  short  time 
our  young  Indian  arrived  with  a  small  roll  of 
indifferent  bark :  he  was  oppressed  with  fa- 
tigue and  hunger,  and  his  clothes  torn  to  rags : 
he  had  parted  with  the  other  two  men  at 
sunset,  who  had  walked  the  whole  day,  in  a 
dreadful  country,  without  procuring  any  good 
bark,  or  being  able  to  get  to  the  large  river. 
His  account  of  the  river,  on  whose  banks  we 
were,  could  not  be  more  unfavourable  or  dis- 
couraging ;  it  had  appeared  to  him  to  be  little 
more  than  a  succession  of  falls  and  rapids, 
with  occasional  interruptions  of  fallen  trees. 

Our  guide  became  so  dissatisfied  and  trou- 
bled in  mind,  that  we  could  not  obtain  from 
him  any  regular  account  of  the  country  before 
us.  All  we  could  collect  from  him  was,  «hat 
118 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

the  river  into  which  this  empties  itself,  is  but 
a  branch  of  a  large  river,  the  great  fork  being 
at  no  great  distance  from  the  confluence  of 
this ;  and  that  he  knew  of  no  lake,  or  large 
body  of  still  water,  in  the  vicinity  of  these 
rivers.  To  this  account  of  the  country,  he 
added  some  strange,  fanciful,  but  terrifying 
descriptions  of  the  natives,  similar  to  those 
which  were  mentioned  in  the  former  voyage. 

We  had  an  escape  this  day,  which  I  must 
add  to  the  many  instances  of  good  fortune 
which  I  experienced  in  this  perilous  expedi- 
tion. The  powder  had  been  spread  out,  to 
the  amount  of  eighty  pounds  weight,  to  re- 
ceive the  air;  and,  in  this  situation,  one  of 
the  men  carelessly  and  composedly  walked 
across  it  with  a  lighted  pipe  in  his  mouth, 
but  without  any  ill  consequence  resulting 
from  such  an  act  of  criminal  negligence.  I 
need  not  add  that  one  spark  might  have  put 
a  period  to  all  my  anxiety  and  ambition. 

I  observed  several  trees  and  plants  on  the 
banks  of  this  river,  which  I  had  not  seen  to 
the  North  of  the  latitude  52.  such  as  the 
cedar,  maple,  hemlock,  &c.  At  this  time  the 
water  rose  fast,  and  passed  on  with  the  rap- 
idity of  an  arrow  shot  from  a  bow. 

Friday,  IJf. — The  weather  was  fine,  clear, 
and  warm,  and  at  an  early  hour  of  the  morn- 
ing we  resumed  our  repair  of  the  canoe.  At 
half  i^ast  seven  our  two  men  returned  hungry 
119 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

and  cold,  not  having  tasted  food,  or  enjoyed 
the  least  repose  for  twenty-four  hours,  with 
their  clothes  torn  into  tatters,  and  their  skin 
lacerated,  in  passing  through  the  woods. 
Their  account  was  the  same  as  that  brought 
by  the  Indian,  with  this  exception,  that  they 
had  reason  to  think  they  saw  the  river,  or 
branch  which  our  guide  had  mentioned :  but 
they  were  of  opinion  that  from  the  frequent 
obstructions  in  this  river,  we  should  have  to 
carry  the  whole  way  to  it,  through  a  dreadful 
country,  where  much  time  and  labour  would 
be  required  to  open  a  ]3assage  through  it. 

Discouraging  as  these  accounts  were,  they 
did  not,  however,  interrupt  for  a  moment  the 
task  in  which  we  were  engaged,  of  repairing 
the  canoe;  and  this  work  we  contrived  to 
complete  by  the  conclusion  of  the  day.  The 
bark  which  was  brought  by  the  Indian,  with 
some  pieces  of  oil-cloth,  and  plenty  of  gum, 
enabled  us  to  put  our  shattered  vessel  in  a 
condition  to  answer  our  present  purposes. 
The  guide,  who  has  been  mentioned  as  mani- 
festing continual  signs  of  dissatisfaction,  now 
assumed  an  air  of  contentment,  which  I  at- 
tributed to  a  smoke  that  was  visible  in  the 
direction  of  the  river;  as  he  naturally  ex- 
pected, if  we  should  fall  in  with  any  natives, 
which  was  now  very  probable,  from  such  a 
circumstance,  that  he  should  be  released  from 
a  service  which  he  had  found  so  irksome  and 
120 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

full  of  danger.  I  had  an  observation  at 
noon,  which  made  our  latitude  54.  23.  43. 
North.  I  also  took  time,  and  found  it  slow 
apparent  time  1.  38.  44. 

Saturday y  15. — The  weather  continued  the 
same  as  the  preceding  day,  and  according  to 
the  directions  which  I  had  previously  given, 
my  people  began  at  a  very  early  hour  to  open 
a  road,  through  which  we  might  carry  a  part 
of  our  lading;  as  I  was  fearful  of  risking 
the  whole  of  it  in  the  canoe,  in  its  present 
weak  state,  and  in  a  part  of  the  river  which 
is  full  of  shoals  and  rapids.  Four  men  were 
employed  to  conduct  her,  lightened  as  she 
was  of  twelve  packages.  They  passed  several 
dangerous  places,  and  met  with  various  ob- 
structions, the  current  of  the  river  being  fre- 
quently stopped  by  rafts  of  drift  wood,  and 
fallen  trees,  so  that  after  fourteen  hours  hard 
labour  we  had  not  made  more  than  three 
miles.  Our  course  was  South-East  by  East, 
and  afi'  we  had  not  met  with  any  accident,  the 
men  appeared  to  feel  a  renewed  courage  to 
continue  their  voyage.  In  the  morning,  how- 
ever, one  of  the  crew,  whose  name  was  Beau- 
champ,  peremptorily  refused  to  embark  in 
the  canoe.  This  being  the  first  example  of 
absolute  disobedience  which  had  yet  appeared 
during  the  course  of  our  expedition,  I  should 
not  have  passed  it  over  without  taking  some 
very  severe  means  to  prevent  a  repetition  of 
121 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

it ;  but  as  lie  had  the  general  character  of  a 
simple  fellow,  among  his  companions,  and 
had  been  frightened  out  of  what  little  sense 
he  possessed,  by  our  late  dangers,  I  rather 
preferred  to  consider  him  as  unworthy  of  ac- 
companying us,  and  to  represent  him  as  an 
object  of  ridicule  and  contempt  for  his  pusil- 
lanimous behaviour ;  though,  in  fact,  he  was 
a  very  useful,  active,  and  laborious  man. 

At  the  close  of  the  day  we  assembled  round 
a  blazing  fire ;  and  the  whole  party,  being  en- 
livened with  the  usual  beverage  which  I  sup- 
plied on  these  occasions,  forgot  their  fatigues 
and  apprehensions ;  nor  did  they  fail  to  an- 
ticipate the  pleasure  they  should  enjoy  in  get- 
ting clear  of  their  present  difficulties,  and 
gliding  onwards  vfith  a  strong  and  steady 
stream,  which  our  guide  had  described  as  the 
characteristic  of  the  large  river  we  soon  ex- 
pected to  enter. 

Sunday,  16. — The  fine  weather  continued, 
and  we  began  our  work,  as  we  had  done  the 
preceding  day ;  some  were  occupied  in  open- 
ing a  road,  others  were  carrying,  and  the  rest 
employed  in  conducting  the  canoe.  I  was  of 
the  first  party,  and  soon  discovered  that  we 
had  encamped  about  half  a  mile  above  several 
falls,  over  which  we  could  not  attempt  to  run 
the  canoe,  lightened  even  as  she  was.  This 
circumstance  rendered  it  necessary  that  the 
road  should  be  made  sufliciently  wide  to  ad- 
122 


NORTH-WEST   CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

mit  the  canoe  to  pass ;  a  tedious  and  toilsome 
work.  In  running  her  down  a  rapid  above 
the  falls,  a  hole  was  broken  in  her  bottom, 
which  occasioned  a  considerable  dela^^,  as  we 
were  destitute  of  the  materials  necessary  for 
her  effectual  reparation.  On  my  being  in- 
formed of  this  misfortune,  I  returned,  and 
ordered  Mr.  Mackay,  with  two  Indians,  to 
quit  their  occupation  in  making  the  road,  and 
endeavour  to  penetrate  to  the  great  river,  ac- 
cording to  the  direction  which  the  guide  had 
communicated,  without  paying  any  attention 
to  the  course  of  the  river  before  us. 

When  the  people  had  repaired  the  canoe  in 
the  best  manner  they  were  able,  we  conducted 
her  to  the  head  of  the  falls ;  she  was  then  un- 
loaded and  taken  out  of  the  water,  when  we 
carried  her  for  a  considerable  distance  through 
a  low,  swampy  country.  I  appointed  four 
men  to  this  laborious  office,  which  they  ex- 
ecuted at  the  peril  of  their  lives,  for  the  canoe 
was  now  become  so  heaA-y,  from  the  additional 
quantity  of  bark  and  gum  necessary  to  patch 
her  up,  that  two  men  could  not  carry  her 
more  than  an  hundred,  yards,  without  being 
relieved ;  and  as  their  way  lay  through  deep 
mud,  which  was  rendered  more  difficult  by 
the  roots  and  prostrate  trunks  of  trees,  they 
were  every  moment  in  danger  of  falling;  and 
beneath  such  a  weight,  one  false  step  might 
have  been  attended  with  fatal  consequences. 
123 


JOURiq-AL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

The  other  two  men  and  myself  followed  as 
fast  as  we  could,  with  the  lading.  Thus  did 
we  toil  till  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening,  to 
get  to  the  termination  of  the  road  that  had 
been  made  in  the  morning.  Here  Mr.  Mackay 
and  the  Indian  joined  us,  after  having  been 
at  the  river,  which  they  represented  as  rather 
large.  They  had  also  observed,  that  the 
lower  part  of  the  river  before  us  was  so  full 
of  fallen  wood,  that  the  attempt  to  clear  a 
passage  through  it,  would  be  an  unavailing 
labour.  The  country  through  which  they  had 
passed  was  morass,  and  almost  impenetrable 
wood.  In  passing  over  one  of  the  embarras, 
our  dog,  which  was  following  them,  fell  in, 
and  it  was  with  very  great  difficulty  that  he 
was  saved,  as  the  current  had  carried  him 
under  the  drift.  They  brought  with  them 
two  geese,  which  had  been  shot  in  the  course 
of  their  expedition.  To  add  to  our  perplexi- 
ties and  embarrasments,  we  were  persecuted 
by  mosquitoes  and  sand-flies,  through  the 
whole  of  the  day. 

The  extent  of  our  journey  was  not  more 
than  two  miles  South-East ;  and  so  much  fa- 
tigue and  pain  had  been  suffered  in  the  course 
of  it,  that  my  people,  as  might  be  expected, 
looked  forward  to  a  continuance  of  it  with 
discouragement  and  dismay.  I  was,  indeed, 
informed  that  murmurs  prevailed  among 
them,  of  which,  however,  I  took  no  notice. 
124 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

When  we  were  assembled  together  for  the 
night,  I  gave  each  of  them  a  dram,  and  in  a 
short  time  they  retired  to  the  repose  which 
they  so  much  required.  We  could  discover 
the  termination  of  the  mountains  at  a  consid- 
erable distance  on  either  side  of  us,  which, 
according  to  my  conjecture,  marked  the 
course  of  the  great  river.  On  the  mountains 
to  the  East  there  were  several  fires,  as  their 
smokes  were  very  visible  to  us.  Excessive 
heat  prevailed  throughout  the  day. 

Monday,  17. — Having  sat  up  till  twelve 
last  night,  which  had  been  my  constant  prac- 
tice smce  we  had  taken  our  present  guide,  I 
awoke  Mr.  Mackay  to  watch  him  in  turn.  I 
then  laid  down  to  rest,  and  at  three  I  was 
awakened  to  be  informed  that  he  had  deserted. 
]\Ir.  Mackay,  with  whom  I  was  displeased  on 
this  occasion,  and  the  Cancre,  accompanied 
by  the  dog,  went  in  search  of  him,  but  he  had 
made  his  escape :  a  design  which  he  had  for 
some  time  meditated,  though  I  had  done  every 
thing  in  my  power  to  induce  him  to  remain 
with  me. 

This  misfortune  did  not  produce  any  relax- 
ation in  our  exertions.  At  an  early  hour  of 
the  morning  we  were  all  employed  in  cutting 
a  passage  of  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  through 
which  we  carried  our  canoe  and  cargo,  when 
we  put  her  into  the  water  with  her  lading, 
but  in  a  very  short  time  were  stopped  by  the 
125 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

drift-wood,  and  were  obliged  to  land  and 
cany.  In  short,  we  pursued  our  alternate 
journeys,  by  land  and  water,  till  noon,  when 
we  could  proceed  no  further,  from  the  various 
small  unnavigable  channels  into  which  the 
river  branched  in  every  direction;  and  no 
other  mode  of  getting  forward  now  remained 
for  us,  but  by  cutting  a  road  across  a  neck  of 
land.  I  accordingly  dispatched  two  men  to 
ascertain  the  exact  distance,  and  we  employed 
the  interval  of  their  absence  in  unloading  and 
getting  the  canoe  out  of  the  water.  It  was 
eight  in  the  evening  when  we  arrived  at  the 
bank  of  the  great  river.  This  journey  was 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  East-Xorth-East, 
through  a  continued  swamp,  where,  in  many 
places,  we  waded  up  to  the  middle  of  our 
thighs.  Our  course  in  the  small  river  was 
about  South-East  by  East  three  miles.  At 
length  we  enjoyed,  after  all  our  toil  and 
anxiety,  the  inexpressible  satisfaction  of  find- 
ing ourselves  on  the  bank  of  a  navigable  river, 
on  the  AVest  side  of  the  first  great  range  of 
mountains. 


126 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

JUNE,  1793. 

Tuesday y  18. — It  rained  throughout  the 
night  and  till  seven  in  the  morning ;  nor  was 
I  sorry  that  the  weather  gave  me  an  excuse 
for  indulging  my  people  with  that  additional 
rest,  which  their  fatigues,  during  the  last 
three  da^'s,  rendered  so  comfortable  to  them. 
Before  eight,  however,  we  were  on  the  water, 
and  driven  on  by  a  strong  current,  when  we 
steered  East-South-East  half  a  mile,  South- 
West  by  South  half  a  mile,  South-South-East 
half  a  mile,  South-West  half  a  mile,  went 
round  to  North-West  half  a  mile,  backed 
South-South-East  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
South-South- West  half  a  mile.  South  by  East 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  South-West  by  South 
three  quarters  of  a  mile.  Here  the  water  had 
fallen  considerably,  so  that  several  mud  and 
sand-banks  were  visible.  There  was  also  a 
hill  a-head,  W^est-South-West. 

The  weather  was  so  hazy  that  we  could  not 
see  across  the  river,  which  is  here  about  two 
hundred  yards  wide.  We  now  2^1'oceeded 
South  by  West  one  third  of  a  mile,  when  we 
saw  a  considerable  quantity  of  beaver  work 
along  the  banks,  North-North- West  half  a 
127 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

mile,  South- West  by  West  one  mile  and  a 
half,  South- South- West  one  third  of  a  mile, 
West  by  South  one  third  of  a  mile.  South  by 
East  half  a  mile.  Mountains  rose  on  the  left, 
immediately  above  the  river,  whose  summits 
were  covered  with  snow ;  South-West  half  a 
mile.  South  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  South-East 
one  third  of  a  mile,  South-South-West  half  a 
mile.  Here  are  several  islands;  we  then 
veered  to  West  by  South  a  third  of  a  mile, 
South-South-East  a  sixth  of  a  mile.  On  the 
right,  the  land  is  high,  rocky,  and  covered 
with  wood;  West-South- West  one  mile;  a 
small  river  running  in  from  the  South-East; 
South-West  half  a  mile.  South  three  quarters 
of  a  mile,  South-West  half  a  mile.  South  by 
West  half  a  mile.  Here  a  rocky  point  pro- 
trudes from  the  left,  and  narrows  the  river 
to  a  hundred  yards ;  South-East  half  a  mile, 
East  by  South  one  eighth  of  a  mile.  The 
current  now  was  very  strong,  but  perfectly 
safe;  South-East  by  South  an  eighth  of  a 
mile.  West  by  North  one  third  of  a  mile, 
South  by  West  a  twelfth  of  a  mile,  South- 
West  one  fourth  of  a  mile.  Here  the  high 
land  terminates  on  one  side  of  the  river, 
while  rocks  rise  to  a  considerable  height  im- 
mediately above  the  other,  and  the  channel 
widens  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  West 
by  South  one  mile.  The  river  now  narrows 
again  between  rocks  of  a  moderate  height, 
128 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

North-North -East  an  eighth  of  a  mile,  veered 
to  South-West  an  eighth  of  a  mile,  South  and 
South- West  half  a  mile.  The  country  ap- 
peared to  be  low,  as  far  as  I  could  judge  of 
it  from  the  canoe,  as  the  view  is  confined  by 
woods  at  the  distance  of  about  a  hundred 
yards  from  the  banks.  Our  course  continued 
West  by  North  two  miles,  North  half  a  mile, 
North-West  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  South-West 
two  miles,  North-West  three  quarters  of  a 
mile ;  when  a  ridge  of  high  land  appeared  in 
this  direction ;  West  one  mile.  A  smalbriver 
flowed  in  from  the  North;  South  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  North-West  half  a  mile,  South- 
South- West  two  miles  and  a  half,  South-East 
three  quarters  of  a  mile ;  a  rivulet  lost  itself 
in  the  main  stream,  West-North-West  half  a 
mile.  Here  the  current  slackened,  and  we 
proceeded  South-South- West  three  quarters 
of  a  mile,  South-West  tbi-ee  quarters  of  a 
mile.  South  by  East  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
South-East  by  East  one  mile,  when  it  veered 
gradually  to  West-North-West  half  a  mile ; 
the  river  being  full  of  islands.  We  proceeded 
due  North,  with  little  current,  the  river  pre- 
senting a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  for  a  mile 
and  a  half,  South-West  by  West  one  mile, 
West-North- West  one  mile,  when  it  veered 
round  to  South-East  one  mile,  West  by  North 
one  mile,  South-East  one  mile.  West  by  North 
three  quarters  of  a  mile.  South  one  eighth  of 
Vol.  II.— 9  129 


JOURNAL   OF  X  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

a  mile,  when  we  came  to  an  Indian  cabin  of 
/ate  erection.  Here  was  the  great  fork,  of 
which  our  guide  had  informed  us,  and  it  ap- 
peared to  be  the  largest  branch  from  the 
South-East.  It  is  about  half  a  mile  in 
breadth,  and  assumes  the  form  of  a  lake. 
The  current  was  very  slack,  and  we  got  into 
the  middle  of  the  channel,  when  we  steered 
West,  and  sounded  in  sixteen  feet  water. 

A  ridge  of  high  land  now  stretched  on,  as 
it  were,  across  our  present  direction:  this 
course  was  three  miles.  We  then  proceeded 
West- South -West  two  miles,  and  sounded  in 
twenty-four  feet  water.  Here  the  river  nar- 
rowed and  the  current  increased.  We  then 
continued  our  course  Xorth-North-West  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  a  small  river  falling  in 
from  the  North-East.  It  now  veered  to  South 
by  West  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  West-South- 
West  four  miles  and  a  half.  West  by  North 
one  mile  and  a  quarter,  North- West  by  West 
one  mile.  West  a  mile  and  a  quarter:  the 
land  was  high  on  both  sides,  and  the  river 
narrowed  to  an  hundred  and  fifty,  or  two  hun- 
dred yards ;  North- West  three  quarters  of  a 
mile.  South- West  by  South  two  miles  and 
a  half :  here  its  breadth  again  increased :  South 
by  West  one  mile.  West- South- West  half  a 
mile,  South-West  by  South  three  miles, 
South-South-East  one  mile,  with  a  small  river 
running  in  from  the  left.  South  with  a  strong 
130 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

current  one  mile,  then  East  three  quarters  of 
a  mile,  South-West  one  mile,  South-South- 
East  a  mile  and  a  half;  the  four  last  dis- 
tances being  a  continual  rapid,  South-West 
by  West  one  mile,  East-North-East  a  mile 
and  a  half,  East-South-East  one  mile,  where 
a  small  river  flowed  in  on  the  right ;  South- 
West  by  South  two  miles  and  a  half,  when 
another  small  river  appeared  from  the  same 
quarter ;  South  by  East  half  a  mile  and  South- 
West  by  West  one  mile  and  a  quarter:  here 
we  landed  for  the  night.  When  we  had 
passed  the  last  river  we  observed  smoke  ris- 
ing from  it,  as  if  produced  by  fires  that  had 
been  fresh  lighted ;  I  therefore  concluded  that 
there  were  natives  on  its  banks :  but  I  was 
unwilling  to  fatigue  my  people,  by  pulling 
back  against  the  current  in  order  to  go  in 
search  of  them. 

This  river  appeared,  from  its  high  water- 
mark, to  have  fallen  no  more  than  one  foot, 
while  the  snipJler  branch,  from  a  similar 
measurement,  had  sunk  two  feet  and  a  half. 
On  our  entering  it,  we  saw  a  flock  of  ducks 
which  were  entirely  white,  except  the  bill 
and  part  of  the  wings.  The  weather  was 
cold  and  raAv  throughout  the  day,  and  the 
wind  South-West.  We  sav/  a  smoke  rising  in 
columns  from  many  parts  of  the  woods,  and 
I  should  have  been  more  anxious  to  see  the 
natives,  if  there  had  been  any  person  with 
131 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

me  who  could  have  introduced  me  to  them; 
but  as  that  object  could  not  be  then  attained 
without  considerable  loss  of  time,  I  deter- 
mined to  pursue  the  navigation  while  it  con- 
tinued to  be  so  favourable,  and  to  wait  till 
my  return,  if  no  very  convenient  opportunity 
offered  in  the  mean  time,  to  engage  an  inter- 
course with  them. 

Wednesday,  19. — The  morning  was  foggy, 
and  at  three  we  were  on  the  water.  At  half 
past  that  hour,  our  course  was  East  by  South 
three  quarters  of  a  mile,  a  small  river  flowing 
in  from  the  right.  We  then  proceeded  South 
by  East  half  a  mile,  and  South-South-West  a 
mile  and  a  half.  During  the  last  distance, 
clouds  of  thick  smoke  rose  from  the  woods, 
that  darkened  the  atmosphere,  accompanied 
with  a  strong  odour  of  the  gum  of  cypress 
and  the  spruce-fir.  Our  courses  continued  to 
be  South- West  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  North- 
West  by  West  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  South- 
South-East  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  East  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  South-West  one  mile, 
West  by  South  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
South-East  by  South  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
South  by  West  half  a  mile.  West  by  South 
three  quarters  of  a  mile.  South  by  West  two 
miles  and  a  half.  In  the  last  course  there 
was  an  island,  and  it  appeared  to  me,  that 
the  main  channel  of  the  river  had  formerly 
been  on  the  other  side  of  it.  The  banks  were 
132 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

here  composed  of  high  white  cliffs,  crowned 
with  pinnacles  in  very  grotesque  shapes.  We 
continued  to  steer  South-East  by  South  a  mile 
and  a  half,  South  by  East  half  a  mile.  East 
one  mile  and  a  quarter,  South-East  by  East 
one  mile.  South  by  East  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  South-East  by  East  one  mile,  South- 
South-East  half  a  mile,  East  one  mile  and  a 
quarter,  South  by  East  half  a  mile.  East  a 
mile  and  half,  South-South-East  three  miles, 
and  South-West  three  quarters  of  a  mile.  In 
the  last  course  the  rocks  contracted  in  such  a 
manner  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  as  to  afford 
the  appearance  of  the  upper  part  of  a  fall  oi 
cataract.  Under  this  apprehension  we  landed 
on  the  left  shore,  where  we  found  a  kind  of 
footpath,  imperfectly  traced,  through  which 
we  conjectured  that  the  natives  occasionally 
passed  with  their  canoes  and  baggage.  On 
examining  the  course  of  the  river,  however, 
there  did  not  appear  to  be  any  fall  as  we  ex- 
pected ;  but  the  rapids  were  of  a  considerable 
length  and  impassable  for  a  light  canoe.  We 
had  therefore  no  alternative  but  to  widen  the 
road  so  as  to  admit  the  passage  of  our  canoe, 
which  was  now  carried  with  great  difficulty ; 
as  from  her  frequent  repairs,  and  not  always 
of  the  usual  materials,  her  weight  was  such, 
that  she  cracked  and  broke  on  the  shoulders 
of  the  men  who  bore  her.  The  labour  and 
fatigue  of  this  undertaking,  from  eight  till 
133 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYxiGE  THROUGH  THE 

twelve,  beggars  all  description,  when  we  at 
length  conquered  this  afflicting  passage,  of 
about  half  a  mile,  over  a  rocky  and  most 
rugged  hill.  Our  course  was  South-South- 
West.  Here  I  took  a  meridian  altitude  which 
gave  me  53.  42.  20.  North  latitude.  We, 
however,  lost  some  time  to  put  our  canoe  in 
a  condition  to  carry  us  onwa,rds.  Our  course 
was  South  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  next 
carrying-place;  which  was  nothing  more  than 
a  rocky  point  about  twice  the  length  of  the 
canoe.  From  the  extremity  of  this  point  to 
the  rocky  and  almost  perpendicular  bank  that 
rose  on  the  opposite  shore,  is  not  more  than 
forty  or  fifty  yards.  The  great  body  of  wa- 
ter, at  the  same  time  tumbling  in  successive 
cascades  along  the  first  carr^dng-place,  rolls 
through  this  narrow  passage  in  a  very  tur- 
bid current,  and  full  of  whirlpools.  On  the 
banks  of  the  river  there  was  great  plenty  of 
wild  onions,  which  when  mixed  up  with  our 
pemmican  was  a  great  improvement  of  it; 
though  they  produced  a  physical  effect  on  our 
appetites,  which  was  rather  inconvenient  to 
the  state  of  our  provisions. 

Here  we  embarked,  and  steered  South-East 
by  East  three  quarters  of  a  mile.  We  now 
saw  a  smoke  on  the  shore;  but  before  we' 
could  reach  land  the  natives  had  deserted 
their  camp,  which  appeared  to  be  erected  for 
no  more  than  two  families.  My  two  Indians 
134 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

were  instantly  dispatched  in  search  of  them,, 
and,  by  following  their  tracks,  they  soon 
overtook  them ;  but  their  language  was  mutu- 
ally unintelligible ;  and  all  attempts  to  pro- 
duce a  friendly  communication  were  fruitless. 
They  no  sooner  perceived  my  young  men  than 
they  prepared  their  bows  and  arrows,  and 
made  signs  for  them  not  to  advance;  and 
they  thought  it  prudent  to  desist  from  pro- 
ceeding, though  not  before  the  natives  had 
discharged  five  arrows  at  them,  which,  how- 
ever, they  avoided,  by  means  of  the  trees. 
When  they  returned  with  this  account,  I  very 
much  regretted  that  I  had  not  accompanied 
them;  and  as  these  peoj^le  could  not  be  at 
any  very  great  distance,  I  took  Mr.  Mackay, 
and  one  of  the  Indians  with  me  in  order  to 
overtake  them;  but  they  had  got  so  far  it 
would  have  been  imprudent  in  me  to  have 
followed  them.  My  Indians,  v\dio,  I  believe, 
were  terrified  at  the  manner  in  which  these 
natives  received  them,  informed  me,  that, 
besides  their  bows,  arrows,  and  spears,  they 
were  armed  with  long  knives,  and  that  they 
accompanied  their  strange  antics  with  menac- 
ing actions  and  loud  shoutings.  On  my  re- 
turn, I  found  my  j)eople  indulging  their  curi- 
osity in  examining  the  bags  and  baskets  which 
the  natives  had  left  behind  them.  Some  of 
them  contained  their  fishing  tackle,  such  as 
nets,  lines,  &c.,  others  of  a  smaller  size  were 
135 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

filled  witli  a  red  earth,  with  which  they  paint 
themselves.  In  several  of  the  bags  there 
were  also  sundry  articles  of  which  we  did  not 
know  the  use.  I  prevented  my  men  from 
taking  any  of  them ;  and  for  a  few  articles  of 
mere  curiosity,  which  I  took  myself,  I  left 
such  things  in  exchange  as  would  be  much 
more  useful  to  their  owners. 

At  four  we  left  this  place,  proceeding  with 
the  stream  South-East  three  quarters  of  a 
mile.  East- South-East  one  mile.  South  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  South-South-West  one 
mile.  South  by  East  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
South- South-East  one  mile.  South- South- 
West  two  miles,  South- South-East  three  miles 
and  a  quarter.  East  by  North  one  mile,  South- 
South-East  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  with  a 
rapid,  South-South-West  three  quarters  of  a 
\iile,  South  one  mile  and  a  half,  South-East 
me  mile  and  a  quarter.  South  three  quarters 
^f  a  mile,  and  South-South-East  one  mile  and 
a  half.  At  half  past  seven  we  landed  for  the 
night,  where  a  small  river  flowed  in  from  the 
right.  The  weather  was  showery,  accom- 
panied with  several  loud  claps  of  thunder. 
The  banks  were  overshadowed  by  lofty  firs, 
and  wide-spreading  cedars. 

Thursday,  20. — The  morning  was  foggy, 

and  at  half  past  four  we  proceeded  with  a 

South  wind,  South-East  by  East  two  miles, 

South-South-East  two  miles  and  a  half,  and 

136 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

South- South- West  two  miles.  The  fog  was 
so  thick,  that  we  could  not  see  the  length  of 
our  canoe,  which  rendered  our  progress  dan- 
gerous, as  we  might  have  come  suddenly  upon 
a  cascade  or  violent  rapid.  Our  next  course 
was  West-North- West  two  miles  and  a  half, 
which  comprehended  a  rapid.  Being  close  in 
with  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  we  perceived 
two  red  deer  at  the  very  edge  of  the  water: 
we  killed  one  of  them,  and  wounded  the 
other,  which  was  very  small.  We  now  landed, 
and  the  Indians  followed  the  wounded  ani- 
mal, which  they  soon  caught,  and  would  have 
shot  another  in  the  woods,  if  our  dog,  who 
followed  them,  had  not  disturbed  it.  From 
the  number  of  their  tracks  it  appeared  that 
they  abounded  in  this  country.  They  are  not 
so  large  as  the  elk  of  the  Peace  Eiver,  but  are 
the  real  red  deer,  which  I  never  saw  in  the 
North,  though  I  have  been  told  that  they  are 
to  be  found  in  great  numbers  in  the  plains 
along  the  Red,  or  Assiniboin  River.  The 
bark  had  been  stripped  off  many  of  the  spruce 
trees,  and  carried  away,  as  I  presumed,  by 
the  natives,  for  the  purpose  of  covering  their 
cabins.  We  now  got  the  venison  on  board, 
and  continued  our  voyage  South- West  one 
mile.  South  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  West  one 
mile.  Here  the  country  changed  its  appear- 
ance; the  banks  were  but  of  a  moderate 
height,  from  whence  the  ground  continued 
137 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

gradually  rising  to  a  considerable  distance, 
covered  with  poplars  and  cypresses,  but  with- 
out any  kind  of  underwood.  There  are  also 
several  low  points  which  the  river,  that  is 
here  about  three  hundred  yards  in  breadth, 
sometimes  overflows,  and  are  shaded  with  the 
Hard,  the  soft  birch,  the  spruce,  and  the  wil- 
low. For  some  distance  before  we  came  to 
this  part  of  the  river,  our  view  was  confined 
within  very  rugged,  irregular,  and  lofty 
banks,  which  were  varied  with  the  poplar, 
different  kinds  of  spruce  fir,  small  birch  trees, 
cedars,  alders,  and  several  species  of  the  wil- 
low. Our  next  course  was  South- West  by 
West  six  miles,  when  we  landed  at  a  deserted 
house,  which  was  the  only  Indian  habitation 
of  this  kind  that  I  had  seen  on  this  side  of 
Mechilimakina.  It  was  about  thirty  feet  long 
and  twenty  wide,  with  three  doors,  three  feet 
high  by  one  foot  and  an  half  in  breadth. 
From  this  and  other  circustances,  it  appears 
to  have  been  constructed  for  three  families. 
There  were  also  three  fire-places,  at  equal 
distances  from  each  other ;  and  the  beds  were 
on  either  side  of  them.  Behind  the  beds  was 
a  narrow  space,  in  the  form  of  a  manger,  and 
somewhat  elevated,  which  was  appropriated 
to  the  purpose  of  keeping  fish.  The  wall  of 
the  house,  which  was  five  feet  in  height,  was 
formed  of  very  strait  spruce  timbers,  brought 
close  together,  and  laid  into  each  other  at  the 
138 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA, 

comers.  The  roof  was  supported  by  a  ridge 
pole,  resting  on  two  upright  forks  of  about 
ten  feet  high ;  that  and  the  wall  support  a 
certain  number  of  spars,  which  are  covered 
with  spruce  bark ;  and  the  whole  attached  and 
secured  by  the  fibers  of  the  cedar.  One  of 
the  gable  ends  is  closed  with  split  boards; 
the  other  with  poles.  Large  rods  are  also 
fixed  across  the  upper  part  of  the  building, 
where  fish  may  hang  and  dry.  To  give  the 
walls  additional  strength,  upright  posts  are 
fixed  in  the  ground,  at  equal  distances,  both 
within  and  without,  of  the  same  height  as 
the  wall,  and  firmly  attached  with  bark  fibres. 
Openings  appear  also  between  the  logs  in  the 
wall,  for  the  purpose,  as  I  conjectured,  of  dis- 
charging their  arrows  at  a  besieging  enemy ; 
they  would  be  needless  for  the  purpose  of 
giving  light,  which  is  sufficiently  afforded  by 
fissures  between  the  logs  of  the  building,  so 
that  it  appeared  to  be  constructed  merely  for 
a  summer  habitation.  There  was  nothing^ 
further  to  attract  our  attention  iu  or  ribout 
the  house,  except  a  large  machine,  vvhich 
must  have  rendered  the  taking  off  the  roof 
absolutely  necessary,  in  order  to  have  intro- 
duced it.  It  was  of  a  cylindrical  form,  fif- 
teen feet  long,  and  four  feet  and  an  half  in 
diameter ;  one  end  was  square,  like  the  head 
of  a  cask,  and  an  conical  machine  was  fixed 
inwards  to  the  other  end,  of  similar  dimen- 
139 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

^ions;  at  the  extremity  of  which  was  an 
opening  of  about  seven  inches  in  diameter. 
This  machine  was  certainly  contrived  to  set 
in  the  river,  to  catch  large  fish ;  and  very  well 
adapted  to  that  purpose;  as  when  they  are 
once  in,  it  must  be  impossible  for  them  to  get 
out,  unless  they  should  have  strength  suffi- 
cient to  break  through  it.  It  was  made  of 
long  pieces  of  split  wood,  rounded  to  the  size 
of  a  small  finger,  and  placed  at  the  distance 
of  an  inch  asunder,  on  six  hoops ;  to  this  was 
added  a  kind  of  boot  of  the  same  materials, 
into  which  it  may  be  supposed  that  the  fish 
are  driven,  when  they  are  to  be  taken  out. 
The  house  was  left  in  such  apparent  order  as 
to  mark  the  design  of  its  owners  to  return 
thither.  It  answered  in  every  particular  the 
description  given  us  by  our  late  guide,  except 
that  it  was  not  situated  on  an  island. 

We  left  this  place,  and  steered  South  by 
East  one  mile  and  a  quarter  when  we  passed 
where  there  had  been  another  house,  of  which 
the  ridge-pole  and  supporters  alone  remained : 
the  ice  had  probably  carried  away  the  body  of 
it.  The  bank  was  at  this  time  covered  with 
water,  and  a  small  river  flowed  in  on  the  left. 
On  a  point  we  observed  an  erection  that  had 
the  appearance  of  a  tomb ;  it  was  in  an  oblong 
form,  covered,  and  very  neatly  walled  with 
bark.  A  pole  was  fixed  near  it,  to  which,  at 
the  height  of  ten  or  twelve  feet,  a  piece  of 
140 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA- 

bark  was  attached,  which  was  probably  ^ 
memorial,  or  symbol  of  distinction.  Our  next 
course  was  South  by  West  two  miles  and  a 
half,  when  we  saw  a  house  on  an  island, 
South-East  by  East  one  mile  and  three  quar- 
ters, in  which  we  observed  another  island, 
with  a  house  upon  it.  A  river  also  flowed 
from  the  right,  and  the  land  was  high  and 
rocky,  and  wooded  with  the  epinette. 

Our  canoe  was  now  become  so  crazy  that  it 
was  a  matter  of  absolute  necessity  to  con- 
struct another;  and  as  from  the  appearance 
of  the  country  there  was  reason  to  expect 
that  bark  was  to  be  found,  we  landed  at 
eight,  with  the  hope  of  procuring  it.  I  ac- 
cordingly dispatched  four  men  with  that  com- 
mission, and  at  twelve  they  returned  with  ^ 
sufficient  quantity  to  make  the  bottom  of  a 
canoe  of  five  fathom  in  length,  and  four  feet 
and  a  half  in  height.  At  noon  I  had  an  ob- 
servation, which  gave  me  53.  17.  28.  North 
latitude. 

We  now  continued  our  voyage  South-East 
by  South  one  mile  and  a  half,  East-South- 
East  one  mile,  East-North-East  half  a  mile, 
South-East  two  miles,  South-East  by  South 
one  mile,  South-East  six  miles,  and  East- 
North-East.  Here  the  river  narrows  between 
steep  rocks,  and  a  rapid  succeeded,  which 
was  so  violent  that  we  did  not  venture  to  run 
it.  I  therefore  ordered  the  loading  to  be 
141 


JOL'RXAL  OP  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THF 

taken  out  of  the  canoe,  but  she  was  now  be- 
come so  heavy  that  the  men  preferred  run- 
ning the  rapid  to  the  carrying  her  overland. 
Though  I  did  not  altogether  approve  of  their 
proposition,  I  was  unwilling  to  oppose  it. 
Four  of  them  undertook  this  hazardous  expe- 
dition, and  I  hastened  to  the  foot  of  the  rapid 
with  great  anxiety,  to  wait  the  event,  which 
turned  out  as  I  expected.  The  water  was  so 
;8trong,  that  although  they  kept  clear  of  the 
Tocks,  the  canoe  filled,  and  in  this  state  they 
drove  half  way  down  the  rapid,  but  fortu- 
siately  she  did  not  overset;  and  having  got 
her  into  an  eddy,  they  emptied  her,  and  in  an 
half-drowned  condition  arrived  safe  on  shore. 
The  carrying-place  is  about  half  a  mile  over, 
with  an  Indian  path  across  it.  Mr.  Mackay, 
and  the  hunters,  saw  some  deer  on  an  island 
above  the  rapid ;  and  had  that  discovery  been 
made  before  the  departure  of  the  canoe,  there 
is  little  doubt  but  we  should  have  added  a 
considerable  quantity  of  venison  to  our  stock 
of  provisions.  Our  vessel  was  in  such  a 
wretched  condition,  as  I  have  already  ob- 
served, that  it  occasioned  a  delay  of  three 
hours  to  put  her  in  a  condition  to  proceed. 
At  length  w©  continued  our  former  course, 
East-North-East  a  mile  and  a  half,  when  we 
passed  an  extensive  Indian  encampment; 
East-South-East  one  mile,  where  a  small 
river  appeared  on  the  left;  South-East  by 
142 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

South  one  mile  and  three  quarters,  East  by 
South  half  a  mile,  East  by  North  one  mile, 
and  saw  another  house  on  an  island ;  South 
half  a  mile.  West  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
South-West  half  a  mile,  where  the  cliffs  of 
white  and  red  clay  appeared  like  the  ruins  of 
ancient  castles.  Our  canoe  now  veered  grad- 
ually to  East-North-East  one  mile  and  a  half, 
when  we  landed  in  a  storm  of  rain  and  thun- 
der, where  we  perceived  the  remains  of  Indian 
houses.  It  was  impossible  to  determine  the- 
wind  in  any  part  of  the  day,  as  it  came  a-head 
in  all  our  directions. 

Friday,  21. — As  I  was  very  sensible  of  the 
difficulty  of  procuring  provisions  in  this  coun- 
try, I  thought  it  prudent  to  guard  against 
any  possibility  of  distress  of  that  kind  on  our 
return;  I  therefore  ordered  ninety  pounds 
weight  of  pemmican  to  be  buried  in  a  hole, 
sufficiently  deep  to  admit  of  a  fire  over  it 
without  doing  any  injury  to  our  hidden, 
treasure,  and  which  would,  at  the  same  time, 
secure  it  from  the  natives  of  the  country,  or 
the  wild  animals  of  the  woods. 

The  morning  was  very  cloudy,  and  at  four 
o'clock  we  renewed  our  voyage,  steering 
South  by  East  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  East- 
South-East  half  a  mile,  South  by  East  one 
mile  and  a  half.  East  half  a  mile.  South -East 
two  miles,  where  a  large  river  flowed  in  from 
the  left,  and  a  smaller  one  from  the  right. 
143 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

We  then  continued  South  by  West  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  East  by  South  a  mile  and 
a  half,  South  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  South- 
East  by  East  one  mile,  South  by  East  half  a 
mile,  South-East  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
South-East  by  South  half  a  mile,  South-East 
by  East  half  a  mile,  the  cliffs  of  blue  and 
yellow  clay,  displaying  the  same  grotesque 
shapes  as  those  which  we  passed  yesterday, 
South-South-East  a  mile  and  a  half,  South 
by  East  two  miles.  The  latitude  by  observa- 
tion was  52.  47.  51.  North. 

Here  we  perceived  a  small  new  canoe,  that 
liad  been  drawn  up  to  the  edge  of  the  woods, 
and  soon  after  another  appeared,  with  one 
man  in  it,  which  came  out  of  a  small  river. 
He  no  sooner  saw  us  than  he  gave  the  whoop 
to  alarm  his  friends,  who  immediately  ap- 
peared on  the  bank,  armed  with  bows  and 
arrows,  and  spears.  They  were  thialy  hab- 
ited, and  displayed  the  most  outrageous  an- 
tics. Though  they  were  certainly  in  a  state 
of  great  apprehension,  they  manifested  by 
their  gestures  that  they  were  resolved  to  at- 
tack i:.?,  if  we  should  venture  to  land.  I 
therefore  ordered  the  men  to  stop  the  way  of 
the  canoe,  and  even  to  check  her  drifting 
with  the  current,  as  it  would  have  been  ex- 
treme folly  to  have  approached  these  savages 
before  their  fury  had  in  some  degree  sub- 
sided.  My  interpreters,  who  understood  their 
144 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

language,  informed  me  that  they  threatened 
us  with  instant  death  if  we  drew  nigh  the 
shore ;  and  they  followed  the  menace  by  dis- 
charging a  volley  of  arrows,  some  of  which 
fell  short  of  the  canoe,  and  others  passed 
over  it,  so  that  they  fortunately  did  us  no 
injury. 

As  we  had  been  carried  by  the  current  be- 
low the  spot  where  the  Indians  were,  I  or- 
dered my  people  to  paddle  to  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  without  the  least  appear- 
ance of  confusion,  so  that  they  brought  me 
abreast  of  them.  My  interpreters,  while  we 
were  within  hearing,  had  done  every  thing  in 
their  power  to  pacify  them,  but  in  vain.  We 
also  observed  that  they  had  sent  off  a  canoe 
with  two  men,  down  the  river,  as  we  con- 
cluded, to  communicate  their  alarm,  and  pro- 
cure assistance.  This  circumstance  deter- 
mined me  to  leave  no  means  untried  that 
might  engage  us  in  a  friendly  intercourse  with 
them,  before  they  acquired  additional  secur- 
ity and  confidence,  by  the  arrival  of  their  re- 
lations and  neighbours,  to  whom  their  situa- 
tion would  be  shortly  notified. 

I  therefore  formed  the  following  adventur- 
ous project,  which  was  happily  crowned  with 
success.  I  left  the  canoe,  and  walked  by 
myself  along  the  beach,  in  order  to  induce 
some  of  the  natives  to  come  to  me,  which  I 

imagined  they  might  be  disposed  to  do,  when 
Vol.  II.— 10  145 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

they  saw  me  alone,  without  any  apparent 
possibility  of  receiving  assistance  from  my 
people,  and  would  consequently  imagine  that 
a  communication  with  me  was  not  a  service 
of  danger.  At  the  same  time,  in  order  to 
possess  the  utmost  security  of  which  my  situ- 
ation was  susceptible,  I  directed  one  of  the 
Indians  to  slip  into  the  woods,  with  my  gun 
and  his  own,  and  to  conceal  himself  from 
their  discovery ;  he  also  had  orders  to  keep  as 
near  me  as  possible,  without  being  seen ;  and 
if  any  of  the  natives  should  venture  across, 
and  attempt  to  shoot  me  from  the  water,  it 
was  his  instructions  to  lay  him  low :  at  the* 
same  time  he  was  particularly  enjoined  not  to 
fire  till  I  had  discharged  one  or  both  of  the 
pistols  that  I  carried  in  my  belt.  If,  how- 
ever, any  of  them  were  to  land,  and  approach 
my  person,  he  was  immediately  to  join  me. 
In  the  meantime  my  other  interpreter  assured 
them  that  we  entertained  the  most  friendly 
dispositions,  which  I  confirmed  by  such  sig- 
nals  as  I  conceived  would  be  comprehended 
by  them.  I  had  not,  indeed,  been  long  at  my 
station,  and  my  Indian  in  ambush  behind  me, 
when  two  of  the  natives  came  off  m  a  canoe, 
but  stopped  when  they  had  got  within  a  hun- 
dred yards  of  me.  I  made  signs  for  them  to 
land,  and  as  an  inducement,  displayed  look- 
ing-glasses, beads,  and  other  alluring  trinkets. 
At  length,  but  with  every  mark  of  extreme 
146 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OP  AMERICA. 

apprehension,  they  approached  the  shore, 
stern  foremost,  but  would  not  venture  to  land. 
I  now  made  them  a  present  of  some  beads, 
with  which  they  were  going  to  push  off,  when 
I  renewed  my  entreaties,  and,  after  some  time, 
prevailed  on  them  to  come  ashore,  and  sit 
down  by  me.  My  hunter  now  thought  it  right 
to  join  me,  and  created  some  alarm  in  my 
new  acquaintance.  It  was,  however,  soon 
removed,  and  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  find, 
that  he  and  these  people  perfectly  understood 
each  other.  I  instructed  him  to  say  every 
thing  that  might  tend  to  soothe  their  fears  and 
win  their  confidence.  I  expressed  my  wish 
to  conduct  them  to  our  canoe,  but  they  de- 
clined my  offer;  and  when  they  observed 
some  of  my  people  coming  towards  us,  they 
requested  me  to  let  them  return ;  and  I  was 
so  well  satisfied  with  the  progress  I  had  made 
in  my  intercourse  with  them,  that  I  did  not 
hesitate  a  moment  in  complying  with  their 
desire.  During  their  short  stay,  they  ob- 
served us,  and  every  thing  about  us,  with  a 
mixture  of  admiration  and  astonishment.  We 
eould  plainly  distinguish  that  their  friends 
received  them  with  great  joy  on  their  return, 
and  that  the  articles  which  they  carried  back 
with  them  were  examined  with  a  general  and 
eager  curiosity ;  they  also  appeared  to  hold  a 
consultation,  which  lasted  about  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  and  the  result  was,  an  invitation  to 
147 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

come  over  to  them,  which  was  cheerfully  ac- 
cepted. Nevertheless,  on  our  landing  they 
betrayed  evident  signs  of  confusion,  which 
arose  probably  from  the  quickness  of  our 
movements,  as  the  prospect  of  a  friendly  com- 
munication had  so  cheered  the  spirits  of  my 
people,  that  they  paddled  across  the  river 
with  the  utmost  expedition.  The  two  men, 
however,  who  had  been  with  us,  appeared, 
very  naturally,  to  possess  the  greatest  share 
of  courage  on  the  occasion,  and  were  ready 
to  receive  us  on  our  landing;  but  our  de- 
meanour soon  dispelled  all  their  apprehen- 
sions, and  the  most  familiar  communication 
took  place  between  us.  When  I  had  secured 
their  confidence,  by  the  distribution  of  trin- 
kets among  them,  and  treated  the  children 
with  sugar,  I  instructed  my  interpreters  to 
collect  every  necessary  information  in  their 
power  to  afford  me. 

According  to  their  account,  this  river, 
whose  course  is  very  extensive,  runs  towards- 
the  mid-day  sun ;  and  that  at  its  mouth,  as 
they  had  been  informed,  white  people  were 
building  houses.  They  represented  its  cur- 
rent to  be  uniformly  strong,  and  that  in  three 
places  it  was  altogether  impassable,  from  the 
falls  and  rapids,  which  poured  along  between 
perpendicular  rocks  that  were  much  higher, 
and  more  rugged,  than  any  we  had  yet  seen, 
and  would  not  admit  of  any  passage  over 
148 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

them.  But  besides  the  dangers  and  difficul- 
ties of  the  navigation,  they  added,  that  we 
should  have  to  encounter  the  inhabitants  of 
the  country,  who  were  very  numerous.  Thej 
also  represented  their  immediate  neighbours 
as  a  very  malignant  race,  who  lived  in  large 
subterraneous  recesses ;  and  when  they  were 
made  to  understand  that  it  was  our  design  to 
proceed  to  the  sea,  they  dissuaded  us  from 
prosecuting  our  intention,  as  we  should  cer- 
tainly become  a  sacrifice  to  the  savage  spirit 
of  the  natives.  These  people  they  described 
as  possessing  iron,  arms,  and  utensils,  which 
they  procured  from  their  neighbours  to  the 
Westward,  and  were  obtained  by  a  commer- 
cial progress  from  people  like  ourselves,  who 
brought  them  in  great  canoes. 

Such  an  account  of  our  situation,  exagger- 
ated as  it  might  be  in  some  points,  and  er- 
roneous in  others,  was  sufficiently  alarming, 
and  awakened  very  painful  reflections :  never- 
theless it  did  not  operate  on  my  mind  so  as 
to  produce  any  change  in  my  original  deter- 
mination. My  first  object,  therefore,  was  to 
persuade  two  of  these  people  to  accompany 
me,  that  they  might  secure  to  us  a  favourable 
reception  from  their  neighbours.  To  this 
proposition  they  assented,  but  expressed  some 
degree  of  dissatisfaction  at  the  immediate  de- 
parture, for  which  we  were  making  prepara- 
tion ;  but  when  we  were  ready  to  enter  the 
149 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

canoe,  a  small  one  was  seen  doubling  the  point 
below,  with  three  men  in  it.  We  thought  it 
prudent  to  wait  for  their  arrival,  and  they 
proved  to  be  some  of  their  relations,  who  had 
received  the  alarm  from  the  messenger?, 
which  I  have  already  mentioned  as  having 
been  sent  down  the  river  for  that  purpose, 
and  who  had  passed  on,  as  we  were  after- 
wards informed,  to  extend  the  notice  of  our 
arrival.  Though  these  people  saw  us  in  the 
midst  of  their  friends,  they  dipslayed  the 
most  menacing  actions,  and  hostile  postures. 
At  length,  however,  this  wild,  savage  spirit 
appeared  to  subside,  and  they  were  persuaded 
to  land.  One  of  them,  who  was  a  middle 
aged  person,  whose  agitations  had  been  less 
frequent  than  those  of  his  companions,  and 
who  was  treated  with  particular  respect  by 
them  all,  inquired  who  we  were,  whence  we 
came,  whither  we  were  going,  and  what  was 
the  motive  of  our  coming  into  that  country. 
When  his  friends  had  satisfied  him  as  far  as 
they  were  able,  respecting  us,  he  instantly 
advised  us  to  delay  our  departure  for  that 
night,  as  their  relations  below,  having  been 
by  this  time  alarmed  by  the  messengers,  who 
had  been  sent  for  that  purpose,  would  cer- 
tainly oppose  our  passage,  notwithstanding  I 
had  two  of  their  own  people  with  me.  He 
added,  that  they  would  all  of  them  be  here  by 
sunset,  they  would  be  convinced,  as  he  was, 
150 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

that  we  were  good  people,  and  meditated  no 
ill  designs  against  them. 

Such  were  the  reasons  which  this  Indian 
urged  in  favour  of  our  remaining  till  the  next 
morning;  and  they  were  too  well  founded  for 
me  to  hesitate  in  complying  with  them ;  be- 
sides, by  prolonging  my  stay  till  the  next 
morning,  it  was  probable  that  I  might  obtain 
some  important  intelligence  respecting  the 
country  through  which  I  was  to  pass,  and  the 
people  who  inhabited  it.  I  accordingly  or- 
dered the  canoe  to  be  unloaded,  taken  out  of 
the  water,  and  gummed.  My  tent  was  also 
pitched,  and  the  natives  were  now  become  so 
familiar,  that  I  was  obliged  to  let  them  know 
my  wish  to  be  alone  and  undisturbed. 

My  first  application  to  the  native  whom  I 
have  already  particularly  mentioned,  was  to 
obtain  from  him  such  a  plan  of  the  river  as 
he  should  be  enabled  to  give  me;  and  he 
complied  with  this  request  with  a  degree  of 
readiness  and  intelligence  that  evidently 
proved  it  was  by  no  means  a  new  business  to 
him.  In  order  to  acquire  the  best  informa- 
tion he  could  communicate,  I  assured  him,  if 
I  found  his  account  correct,  that  I  should 
either  return  myself,  or  send  others  to  them, 
with  such  articles  as  they  appeared  to  want : 
particularly  arms  and  ammunition,  with  which 
they  would  be  able  to  prevent  their  enemies 
from  invading  them.  I  obtained,  however, 
151 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

no  addition  to  what  I  already  knew,  but  that 
the  country  below  us,  as  far  as  he  was  ac- 
quainted with  it,  abounded  in  animals,  and 
that  the  river  produced  plenty  of  fish. 

Our  canoe  was  now  become  so  weak,  leaky, 
and  unmanageable,  that  it  became  a  matter 
of  absolute  necessity  to  construct  a  new  one  j, 
and  I  had  been  informed,  that  if  we  delayed 
jaat  important  work  till  we  got  further  down 
he  river,  we  should  not  be  able  to  procure 
>ark.  I  therefore  dispatched  two  of  my  peo- 
ple, with  an  Indian,  in  search  of  that  neces- 
sary material.  The  weather  was  so  cloudy^ 
that  I  could  not  get  an  observation.* 

I  passed  the  rest  of  the  day  in  conversing 
with  these  people:  they  consisted  of  seven 
families,  containing  eighteen  men,  they  were 
clad  in  leather,  and  handsome  beaver  and 
rabbit- skin  blankets.  They  had  not  been 
long  arrived  in  this  part  of  the  country,  where 
they  proposed  to  pass  the  summer,  to  catch 
fish  for  their  winter  provision :  for  this  pur- 
pose they  were  preparing  machines  similar  ta 
that  which  we  found  in  the  first  Indian  house 
we  saw  and  described.  The  fish  which  they 
take  in  them  are  large,  and  only  visit  this 
part  of  the  river  at  certain  seasons.  These 
people  differ  very  little,  if  at  all,  either  in 
their  appearance,  language,  or  manners,  from. 

*  The  observation,  already  mentioned,  I  got  on 
my  return. 

152 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

the  Eocky-Mountain  Indians.  The  men  whom 
I  sent  in  search  of  bark,  returned  with  a  cer- 
tain quantity  of  it,  but  of  a  very  indifferent 
kind.  We  were  not  gratified  with  the  arrival 
of  any  of  the  natives  whom  we  expected  from 
a  lower  part  of  the  river. 


158 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 


CHAPTER   YII. 

JUNE,  1793. 

Saturday,  22. — At  six  in  the  morning  we 
proceeded  on  our  voyage,  with  two  of  the 
Indians,  one  of  them  in  a  small  pointed  canoe, 
made  after  the  fashion  of  the  Esquimaux,  and 
the  other  in  our  own.  This  precaution  was 
necessary  in  a  two-fold  point  of  view,  as  the 
small  canoe  could  be  sent  ahead  to  speak  to 
any  of  the  natives  that  might  be  seen  down 
the  river,  and,  thus  divided,  would  not  be 
easy  for  them  both  to  make  their  escape.  Mr. 
Mackay  also  embarked  with  the  Indian,  which 
seemed  to  afford  him  great  satisfaction,  and 
he  was  thereby  enabled  to  keep  us  company 
with  diminution  of  labour. 

Our  courses  were  South-South-East  a  mile 
and  a  half,  South-East  half  a  mile.  South  by 
East  four  miles  and  a  half,  South-East  by 
South  half  a  mile.  South  by  West  half  a  mile, 
South-East  by  East  one  mile,  South-South- 
West  a  mile  and  a  half.  South  by  East  one 
mile  and  a  quarter.  The  country,  on  the 
right,  presented  a  very  beautiful  appearance : 
it  rose  at  first  rather  abruptly  to  the  height  of 
twenty-five  feet,  when  the  precipice  was  suc- 
ceeded by  an  inclined  plain  to  the  foot  of  an- 
154 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

other  steep ;  which  was  followed  by  another 
extent  of  gently-rising  ground :  these  objects, 
which  were  shaded  with  groves  of  fir,  pre- 
senting themselves  alternately  to  a  consider- 
able distance. 

We  now  landed  near  a  house,  the  roof  of 
which  alone  appeared  above  ground;  but  it 
was  deserted  by  its  inhabitants  who  had  been 
alarmed  at  our  approach.  We  observed  sev- 
eral men  in  the  second  steep,  who  displayed 
the  same  postures  and  menacing  actions  as 
those  which  we  have  so  lately  described. 
Our  conductors  went  to  them  immediately  on 
an  embassy  of  friendship,  and,  after  a  very 
vociferous  discourse,  one  of  them  was  per- 
suaded to  come  to  us,  but  presented  a  very 
ferocious  aspect :  the  rest,  who  were  seven  in 
number,  soon  followed  his  example.  They 
held  their  bows  and  arrows  in  their  hands, 
and  appeared  in  their  garments,  which  were 
fastened  round  the  neck,  but  left  the  right 
arm  free  for  action.  A  cord  fastened  a 
blanket  or  leather  covering  under  the  right 
armpit,  so  that  it  hung  upon  the  left  shoulder, 
and  might  be  occasionally  employed  as  a 
target,  that  would  turn  an  arrow  which  was 
nearly  spent.  As  soon  as  they  had  recovered 
from  their  apprehensions,  ten  women  made 
their  appearance,  but  without  any  children, 
whom,  I  imagine,  they  had  sent  to  a  greater 
distance,  to  be  out  of  the  reach  of  all  possible 
155 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

danger.  I  distributed  a  few  presents  among 
them,  and  left  my  guides  to  explain  to  them 
the  object  of  my  journey,  and  the  friendli- 
ness of  my  designs,  with  which  they  had 
themselves  been  made  acquainted;  their  fears 
being  at  length  removed,  I  gave  them  a  speci- 
men of  the  use  to  which  we  applied  our  fire- 
arms :  at  the  same  time,  I  calmed  their  aston- 
ishment, by  the  assurance,  that,  though  we 
could  at  once  destroy  those  who  did  us  injury, 
we  could  equally  protect  those  who  shewed  us 
kindness.  Our  stay  here  did  not  exceed  half 
an  hour,  and  we  left  these  people  with  fa- 
vourable impressions  of  us. 

From  this  place  we  steered  East  by  North 
half  a  mile,  South  by  East  three  quarters  of 
a  mile,  and  South  by  West  a  mile  and  a  half, 
when  we  landed  again  on  seeing  some  of  the 
natives  on  the  high  ground,  whose  appear- 
ance was  more  wild  and  ferocious  than  any 
whom  we  had  yet  seen.  Indeed  I  was  under 
some  apprehension  that  our  guides,  who  went 
to  conciliate  them  to  us,  would  have  fallen  a 
prey  to  their  savage  fury.  At  length,  how- 
ever, they  were  persuaded  to  entertain  a  more 
favourable  opinion  of  us,  and  they  approached 
us  one  after  another,  to  the  number  of  six- 
teen men,  and  several  women,  I  shook  hands 
with  them  all,  and  desired  my  interpreters  to 
explaiij  that  salutation  as  a  token  of  friend- 
ship. As  this  was  not  a  place  where  we  could 
156 


^NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

remain  with  the  necessary  convenience,  I  pro- 
posed to  proceed  further,  in  search  of  a  more 
commodious  spot.  They  immediately  invited 
us  to  pass  the  night  at  their  lodges,  which, 
were  at  no  great  distance,  and  promised,  at 
the  same  time,  that  they  would,  in  the  morn- 
ing, send  two  young  men  to  introduce  us  to 
the  next  nation,  who  were  very  numerous, 
and  ill-disposed  towards  strangers.  As  we 
were  pushing  from  the  shore,  we  were  very 
much  surprised  at  hearing  a  woman  pronounce 
several  words  in  the  Knisteneaux  language. 
She  proved  to  be  a  Eocky  Mountain  native, 
so  that  my  interpreters  perfectly  understood 
her.  She  informed  us  that  her  country  is  at 
the  forks  of  this  river,  and  that  she  had  been 
taken  prisoner  by  the  Knisteneaux,  who  had 
carried  her  across  the  mountains.  After  hav- 
ing passed  the  greatest  part  of  the  summer 
with  them,  she  had  contrived  to  escape,  be- 
fore they  had  reached  their  own  country,  and 
had  re-crossed  the  mountains,  when  she  ex- 
pected to  meet  her  own  friends:  but  after 
suffering  all  the  hardships  incident  to  such  a 
journey,  she  had  been  taken  by  a  war-party 
of  the  people  with  whom  she  then  was,  who 
had  driven  her  relations  from  the  river  into 
the  mountains.  She  had  since  been  detained 
by  her  present  husband,  of  whom  she  had  no 
cause  to  complain ;  nevertheless  she  expressed 
a  strong  desire  to  return  to  her  own  people. 
157 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

I  presented  her  with  several  useful  articles, 
and  desired  her  to  come  to  me  at  the  lodges, 
which  she  readily  engaged  to  do.  We  arrived 
thither  before  the  Indians,  and  landed,  as  we 
had  promised.  It  was  now  near  twelve  at 
noon,  but  on  attempting  to  take  an  altitude, 
I  found  the  angle  too  great  for  my  sextant. 

The  natives  whom  we  had  already  seen, 
and  several  others,  soon  joined  us,  with  a 
greater  number  of  women  than  I  had  yet 
seen ;  but  I  did  not  observe  the  female  pris- 
oner among  them.  There  were  thirty-five  of 
them,  and  my  remaining  store  of  presents  was 
not  sufficient  to  enable  me  to  be  very  liberal 
to  so  many  claimants.  Among  the  men  I 
found  four  of  the  adjoining  nation,  and  a 
Rocky-Mountain  Indian,  who  had  been  with 
them  for  some  time.  As  he  was  understood 
by  my  interpreters,  and  was  himself  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  language  of  the  strangers, 
I  possessed  the  means  of  obtaining  every  in- 
formation respecting  the  country,  which  it 
might  be  in  their  power  to  afford  me.  For 
this  purpose  I  selected  an  elderly  man,  from 
the  four  strangers,  whose  countenance  had 
prepossessed  me  in  his  favour.  I  stated  to 
these  people,  as  I  had  already  done  to  those 
from  whom  I  had  hitherto  derived  informa- 
tion, the  objects  of  my  voyage,  and  the  very 
great  advantages  which  they  would  receive 
from  my  successful  termination  of  it.  They 
158 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

expressed  themselves  very  much  satisfied  at 
my  communication,  and  assured  me  that  they 
would  not  deceive  me  respecting  the  subject 
of  my  inquiry.  An  old  man  also,  who  ap- 
peared to  possess  the  character  of  a  chief,  de- 
clared his  wish  to  see  me  return  to  his  land, 
and  that  his  two  young  daughters  should  then 
be  at  my  disposal.  I  now  proceeded  to  re- 
quest the  native,  whom  I  had  particularly  se- 
lected, to  commence  his  information,  by  draw- 
ing a  sketch  of  the  country  upon  a  large  piece 
of  bark,  and  he  immediately  entered  on  the 
work,  frequently  appealing  to,  and  sometimes 
asking  the  advice  of,  those  around  him.  He 
described  the  river  as  running  to  the  East  of 
South,  receiving  many  rivers,  and  every  six 
or  eight  leagues  encumbered  with  falls  and 
rapids,  some  of  which  were  very  dangerous, 
and  six  of  them  impracticable.  The  carrying- 
places  he  represented  as  of  great  length,  and 
passing  over  hills  and  mountains.  He  de- 
picted the  lands  of  three  other  tribes,  in  suc- 
cession, who  spoke  different  languages.  Be- 
yond them  he  knew  nothing  either  of  the 
river  or  country,  only  that  it  was  still  a  long 
way  to  the  sea;  and  that,  as  he  had  heard, 
there  was  a  lake,  before  they  reached  the 
water,  which  the  natives  did  not  drink.  As 
far  as  his  knowledge  of  the  river  extended, 
the  country  on  either  side  was  level,  in  many 
places  without  wood,  and  abounding  in  red 
159 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

deer,  and  some  of  a  small  fallow  kind.  Few 
of  the  natives,  he  said,  would  come  to  the 
banks  for  some  time ;  but,  that  at  a  certain 
season  they  would  arrive  there  in  great  num- 
bers, to  fish.  They  now  procured  iron,  brass, 
copper,  and  trinkets,  from  the  Westward ;  but 
formerly  these  articles  were  obtained  from 
the  lower  parts  of  the  river,  though  in  small 
quantities.  A  knife  was  produced  which  had 
been  brought  from  that  quarter.  The  blade 
was  ten  inches  long,  and  an  inch  and  a  half 
broad,  but  with  a  very  blunted  edge.  The 
handle  was  of  horn.  We  understood  that 
this  instrument  had  been  obtained  from  white 
men,  long  before  they  had  heard  that  any 
came  to  the  Westward.  One  very  old  man 
observed,  that  as  long  as  he  could  remember, 
he  was  told  of  white  people  to  the  South- 
ward ;  and  that  he  had  heard,  though  he  did 
not  vouch  for  the  truth  of  the  report,  that 
one  of  them  had  made  an  attempt  to  come  up 
the  river,  and  was  destroyed. 

These  people  describe  the  distance  across 
the  country  as  very  short  to  the  Western 
ocean ;  and,  according  to  my  own  idea,  it  can- 
not be  above  five  or  six  degrees.  If  the  as- 
sertion of  Mr.  Mears  be  correct,  it  cannot  be 
so  far,  as  the  inland  sea  which  he  mentions 
within  Nootka,  must  come  as  far  East  as  126. 
West  longitude.  They  assured  us  that  the 
road  was  not  difficult,  as  they  avoided  the 
160 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

mountains,  keeping  along  the  low  lands  be- 
tween them,  many  parts  of  which  are  entirely 
free  from  wood.  According  to  their  account, 
this  way  is  so  often  travelled  by  them,  that 
their  path  is  visible  throughout  the  whole 
journey,  which  lies  along  small  lakes  and 
rivers.  It  occupied  them,  they  said,  no 
more  than  six  nights,  to  go  to  where  they 
meet  the  people  who  barter  iron,  brass,  cop- 
per, beads,  &c.,  with  them,  for  dressed 
leather,  and  beaver,  bear,  lynx,  fox,  and 
marten  skins.  The  iron  is  about  eighteen 
inches  of  two-inch  bar.  To  this  they  give  an 
edge  at  one  end,  and  fix  it  to  a  handle  at 
right  angles,  which  they  employ  as  an  axe. 
When  the  iron  is  worn  down,  they  fabricate 
it  into  points  for  their  arrows  and  pikes. 
Before  they  procured  iron  they  employed  bone 
and  horn  for  those  purposes.  The  copper  and 
brass  they  convert  into  collars,  arm-bands, 
bracelets,  and  other  ornaments.  They  some- 
times also  point  their  arrows  with  those 
metals.  They  had  been  informed  by  those 
whom  they  meet  to  trade  with,  that  the  white 
people,  from  whom  these  articles  are  ob- 
tained, were  building  houses  at  the  distance 
of  three  days,  or  two  nights  journey  from 
the  place  where  they  met  last  fall.  With 
this  route  they  all  appeared  to  be  well  ac- 
quainted. 

I  now  requested  that  they  would  send  for 
Vol.  IL-11  161 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

tlie  female  prisoner  whom  I  saw  yesterday ; 
but  I  received  only  vague  and  evasive  an- 
swers. They  probably  apprehended,  that  it 
was  our  design  to  take  her  from  them.  I 
was,  however,  very  much  disappointed  at 
being  prevented  from  having  an  interview 
with  her,  as  she  might  have  given  me  a  cor- 
rect account  of  the  country  beyond  the  forks 
of  the  river,  as  well  as  of  the  pass,  through 
the  mountains,  from  them. 

My  people  had  listened  with  great  attention 
to  the  relation  which  had  been  given  me,  and 
it  seemed  to  be  their  opinion,  that  it  would 
be  absolute  madness  to  attempt  a  passage 
through  so  many  savage  and  barbarous  na- 
tions. My  situation  may  indeed,  be  more 
easily  conceived  than  expressed:  I  had  no 
more  than  thirty  days  provision  remaining, 
exclusive  of  such  supplies  as  I  might  obtain 
from  the  natives,  and  the  toil  of  our  hunters, 
which,  however,  was  so  precarious  as  to  be 
matter  of  little  dependence :  besides,  our  am- 
munition would  soon  be  exhausted,  particu- 
larly our  ball,  of  which  we  had  not  more  than 
a  hundred  and  fifty,  and  about  thirty  pound 
weight  of  shot,  which,  indeed,  might  be  con- 
verted into  bullets,  though  with  great  waste. 

The  more  I  heard  of  the  river,  the  more  I 

was  convinced  it  could  not  empty  itself  into 

the  ocean  to  the  North  of  what  is  called  the 

river  of  the  West,  so  that  with  its  windings, 

162 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

the  distance  must  be  very  great.  Such  being 
the  discouraging  circumstances  of  my  situa- 
tion,which  were  now  heightened  by  the  discon- 
tents of  my  people,  I  could  not  but  be  alarmed 
at  the  idea  of  attempting  to  get  to  the  dis- 
charge of  such  a  rapid  river,  especially  when 
I  reflected  on  the  tardy  progress  of  my  return 
up  it,  even  if  I  should  meet  with  no  obstruc- 
tion from  the  natives;  a  circumstance  not 
very  probable,  from  the  numbers  of  them 
which  would  then  be  on  the  river,  and  whom 
I  could  have  no  opportunity  of  conciliating  in 
my  passage  down,  for  the  reasons  which  have 
been  already  mentioned.  At  all  events,  I 
must  give  up  every  expectation  of  returning 
this  season  to  Athabasca.  Such  were  my  re- 
flections at  this  period ;  but  instead  of  con- 
tinuing to  indulge  them,  I  determined  to  pro- 
ceed with  resolution,  and  set  future  events  at 
defiance.  At  the  same  time  I  suffered  myself 
to  nourish  the  hope  that  I  might  be  able  to 
penetrate  with  more  safety,  and  in  a  shorter 
period,  to  the  ocean  by  the  inland  western 
communication. 

To  carry  this  project  into  execution  I  must 
have  returned  a  considerable  distance  up  the 
river,  which  would  necessarily  be  attended 
with  very  serious  inconvenience,  if  I  passed 
over  every  other ;  as  in  a  voyage  of  this  kind, 
a  retrograde  motion  could  not  fail  to  cool  the 
ardour,  slacken  the  zeal,  and  weaken  the  con- 
163 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

fidence  of  those,  who  have  no  greater  induce- 
ment to  the  undertaking,  than  to  follow  the 
conductor  of  it.  Such  was  the  state  of  my 
mind  at  this  period,  and  such  the  circum- 
stances with  which  it  was  distressed  and  dis- 
tracted. 

To  the  people  who  had  given  me  the  fore- 
going information  I  presented  some  beads, 
which  they  preferred  to  any  other  articles  in 
my  possession,  and  I  recompensed  in  the 
same  manner  two  of  them  who  communicated 
to  me  the  following  vocabulary  in  the  lan- 
guage of  the  Nagailer  and  Atnah  tribes. 


The  Negailer,  or 

The  Atnah,  or 

Carrier-Indians. 

Chin-Indians. 

Eye, 

Nah, 

Thloustin. 

Hair, 

Thigah, 

Cahowdin. 

Teeth, 

Gough, 

Chliough. 

Nose, 

Nenzeh, 

Pisax. 

Head, 

Thie, 

Scapacay. 

Wood, 

Dekin, 

Shedzay. 

Hand, 

Lah, 

Calietha. 

Leg, 

Kin, 

Squacht. 

Tongue, 

Thoula, 

Dewhasjisk. 

Ear, 

Zach, 

Ithlinah. 

Man, 

Dmay, 

Scuyloch. 

Woman, 

Chiquoi, 

Smosledgensk. 

Beaver, 

Zah, 

Schugh. 

Elk, 

Yezey, 

Ookoy-Beh. 

Dog, 

Sleing, 

Scacah. 

Ground-hog, 

Thidnu, 

Squaisquais. 

Iron, 

Thilisitch, 

Soucoumang. 

Fire, 

Coun, 

Teuck. 

Water, 

Tou, 

164 

Shaweliquoih. 

NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 


The  Negaller,  or 

The  Atnah,  or 

Carrier-Indians. 

Chin-Indians. 

Stone, 

Zeh, 

Ishehoinah. 

Bow, 

Nettuny, 

Isquoinah. 

Arrow, 

Igah, 

Squailai. 

Yes, 

Nesi, 

Amaig. 

Plains, 

Thoughoud, 

Spilela. 

Come  here. 

Andezei, 

Thla-elyeh. 

The  Atnah  language  has  no  affinity  to  any 
■with  which  I  am  acquainted;  but  the  Na- 
gailer  differs  very  little  from  that  spoken  by 
the  Beaver  Indians,  and  is  almost  the  same 
as  that  of  the  Chepewyans. 

We  had  a  thunder-storm  with  heavy  rain ; 
and  in  the  evening  when  it  had  subsided,  the 
Indians  amused  us  with  singing  and  dancing, 
in  which  they  were  joined  by  the  young 
women.  Four  men  now  arrived  whom  we 
had  not  yet  seen ;  they  had  left  their  families 
at  some  distance  in  the  country,  and  ex- 
pressed a  desire  that  we  should  visit  them 
there. 

Sunday f  23. — After  a  restless  night,  I 
called  the  Indians  together,  from  whom  I 
yesterday  received  the  intelligence  which  has 
been  already  mentioned,  in  the  hope  that  I 
might  obtain  some  additional  information. 
From  their  former  account  they  did  not  make 
the  least  deviation;  but  they  informed  me 
further,  that  where  they  left  this  river,  a 
small  one  from  the  Westward  falls  into  it, 
which  was  navigable  for  their  canoes  during 
165 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

four  days,  and  from  thence  they  slept  but 
two  nights,  to  get  to  the  people  with  whom 
they  trade,  and  who  have  wooden  canoes 
much  larger  than  ours,  in  which  they  go  down 
a  river  to  the  sea.  They  continued  to  inform 
me,  that  if  I  went  that  way  we  must  leave 
our  own  canoe  behind  us ;  but  they  thought 
it  probable  that  those  people  would  furnish 
us  with  another.  From  thence  they  stated 
the  distance  to  be  only  one  day's  voyage  with 
the  current  to  the  lake  whose  water  is  nause- 
ous, and  where  they  had  heard  that  great 
canoes  came  two  winters  ago,  and  that  the 
people  belonging  to  them,  brought  great  quan- 
tities of  goods  and  built  houses. 

At  the  commencement  of  this  conversation, 
I  was  very  much  surprised  by  the  following 
question  from  one  of  the  Indians:  "What," 
demanded  he,  "  can  be  the  reason  that  you 
are  so  particular  and  anxious  in  your  inquiries 
of  us  respecting  a  knowledge  of  this  country : 
do  not  you  white  men  know  every  thing  in 
the  world?  "  This  interrogatory  was  so  very 
unexpected,  that  it  occasioned  some  hesita- 
tion before  I  could  answer  it.  At  length, 
however,  I  replied,  that  we  certainly  were 
acquainted  with  the  principal  circumstances 
of  every  part  of  the  world;  that  I  knew 
where  the  sea  is,  and  where  I  myself  then 
was,  but  that  I  did  not  exactly  understand 
what  obstacles  might  interrupt  me  in  getting 
166 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AlVIERICA. 

to  it ;  with  which,  he  and  his  relations  must 
be  well  acquainted,  as  they  had  so  frequently- 
surmounted  them.  Thus  I  fortunately  pre- 
served the  impression  in  their  minds,  of  the 
superiority  of  white  people  over  themselves. 

It  was  now,  however,  absolutely  necessary 
that  I  should  come  to  a  final  determination 
which  route  to  take ;  and  no  long  interval  of 
reflection  was  employed,  before  I  preferred 
to  go  over  land:  the  comparative  shortness 
and  security  of  such  a  journey,  were  alone 
sufficient  to  determine  me.  I  accordingly 
proposed  to  two  of  the  Indians  to  accompany 
me,  and  one  of  them  readily  assented  to  my 
proposition. 

I  now  called  those  of  my  people  about  me, 
who  had  not  been  present  at  my  consultation 
with  the  natives ;  and  after  passing  a  warm 
eulogium  on  their  fortitude,  patience,  and 
perseverance,  I  stated  the  difficulties  that 
threatened  our  continuing  to  navigate  the 
river,  the  length  of  time  it  would  require, 
and  the  scanty  provision  we  had  for  such  a 
voyage :  I  then  proceeded  for  the  foregoing 
reasons  to  propose  a  shorter  route,  by  trying 
the  overland  road  to  the  sea.  At  the  same 
time,  as  I  knew  from  experience,  the  diffi- 
culty of  retaining  guides,  and  as  many  cir- 
cumstances might  occur  to  prevent  our  prog- 
ress in  that  direction,  I  declared  my  resolu- 
tion not  to  attempt  it,  unless  they  would  en- 
167 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

gage,  if  we  could  not  after  all  proceed  over 
land,  to  return  with  me,  and  continue  our 
voyage  to  the  discharge  of  the  waters,  what- 
ever the  distance  might  be.  At  all  events,  I 
declared,  in  the  most  solemn  manner,  that  I 
would  not  abandon  my  design  of  reaching  the 
sea,  if  I  made  the  attempt  alone,  and  that  I 
did  not  despair  of  returning  in  safety  to  my 
friends. 

This  proposition  met  with  the  most  zealous 
return,  and  they  unanimously  assured  me, 
that  they  were  as  willing  now  as  they  had  ever 
been,  to  abide  by  my  resolutions,  whatever 
they  might  be,  and  to  follow  me  wherever  I 
should  go.  I  therefore  requested  them  to 
prepare  for  an  immediate  departure,  and  at 
the  same  time  gave  notice  to  the  man  who 
had  engaged  to  be  our  guide,  to  be  in  readi- 
ness to  accompany  us.  When  our  determina- 
tion to  return  up  the  river  was  made  known, 
several  of  the  natives  took  a  very  abrupt  de- 
parture ;  but  to  those  who  remained,  I  gave  a 
few  useful  articles,  explaining  to  them  at  the 
same  time,  the  advantages  that  would  result 
to  them,  if  their  relations  conducted  me  to 
the  sea,  along  such  a  road  as  they  had  de- 
scribed. I  had  already  given  a  moose  skin 
to  some  of  the  women  for  the  purpose  of  mak- 
ing shoes,  which  were  now  brought  us ;  they 
were  well  sewed  but  ill-shaped,  and  a  few 
beads  were  considered  as  a  sufficient  remu- 
168 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF   AMERICA. 

neration  for  the  skill  employed  on  them. 
Mr.  Mackay,  by  my  desire,  engraved  my 
name,  and  the  date  of  the  year  on  a  tree. 

When  we  were  ready  to  depart,  our  guide 
proposed,  for  the  sake  of  expedition,  to  go 
over  land  to  his  lodge,  that  he  might  get 
there  before  us,  to  make  some  necessary 
preparation  for  his  journey.  I  did  not  alto- 
gether relish  his  design,  but  was  obliged  to 
consent:  I  thought  it  prudent,  however,  to 
send  Mr.  Mackay,  and  the  two  Indians  along 
with  him.  Our  place  of  rendezvous,  was  the 
subterraneous  house  which  we  passed  yester- 
day. 

At  ten  in  the  morning  we  embarked,  and 
went  up  the  current  much  faster  than  I  ex- 
pected with  such  a  crazy  vessel  as  that  which 
carried  us.  We  met  our  people  at  the  house 
as  had  been  appointed ;  but  the  Indian  still 
continued  to  prefer  going  on  by  land,  and  it 
would  have  been  needless  for  me  to  oppose 
him.  He  proceeded,  therefore,  with  his 
former  companions,  whom  I  desired  to  keep 
him  in  good  humour  by  every  reasonable 
gratification.  They  were  also  furnished  with 
a  few  articles  that  might  be  of  use  if  they 
should  meet  strangers. 

In  a  short  time  after  we  had  left  the  house, 

I  saw  a  wooden  canoe  coming  down  the  river, 

with  three  natives  in  it,  who,  as  soon  as  they 

perceived  us,  made  for  the  shore,  and  hurried 

169 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

into  the  woods.  On  passing  their  vessel,  we 
discovered  it  to  be  one  of  those  which  we  had 
seen  at  the  lodges.  A  severe  gust  of  wind, 
with  rain,  came  from  the  South-Sonth-East. 
This  we  found  to  be  a  very  prevalent  wind  in 
these  parts.  We  soon  passed  another  wooden 
canoe  drawn  stern  foremost  on  the  shore;  a 
circumstance  which  we  had  not  hitherto  ob- 
served. The  men  worked  very  hard,  and 
though  I  imagined  we  went  a-head  very  fast, 
we  could  not  reach  the  lodges,  but  landed  for 
the  night  at  nine,  close  to  the  encampment  of 
two  families  of  the  natives  whom  we  had 
formerly  seen  at  the  lodges.  I  immediately 
went  and  sat  down  with  them,  when  they 
gave  some  roasted  fish ;  two  of  my  men  who 
followed  me  were  gratified  also  with  some  of 
their  provisions.  The  youngest  of  the  two 
natives  now  quitted  the  shed,  and  did  not  re- 
turn during  the  time  I  remained  there.  I  en- 
deavoured to  explain  to  the  other  by  signs, 
the  cause  of  my  sudden  return,  which  he  ap- 
peared to  understand.  In  the  mean  time  my 
tent  was  pitched,  and  on  my  going  to  it,  I 
was  rather  surprised  that  he  did  not  follow 
me,  as  he  had  been  constantly  with  me  during 
the  day  and  night  I  had  passed  with  his  party 
on  going  down.  We,  however,  went  to  rest 
in  a  state  of  perfect  security ;  nor  had  we  the 
least  apprehension  for  the  safety  of  our  peo- 
ple who  were  gone  by  land. 
170 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

We  were  in  our  canoe  by  four  this  morning^ 
and  passed  by  the  Indian  hut,  which  appeared 
in  a  state  of  perfect  tranquillity.  We  soon 
came  in  sight  of  the  point  where  we  first  saw 
the  natives,  and  at  eight  were  much  surprised 
and  disappointed  at  seeing  Mr.  Mackay,  and 
our  two  Indians  coming  alone  from  the  ruins 
of  a  house  that  had  been  partly  carried  away 
by  the  ice  and  water,  at  a  short  distance  be- 
low the  place  where  we  had  appointed  to 
meet.  Nor  was  our  surprise  and  apprehension 
diminished  by  the  alarm  which  was  painted 
in  their  countenances.  When  we  had  landed, 
they  informed  me  that  they  had  taken  refuge 
in  that  place,  with  the  determination  to  sell 
their  lives,  which  they  considered  in  the  most 
imminent  danger,  as  dear  as  possible.  In  a 
very  short  time  after  they  had  left  us,  they 
met  a  party  of  the  Indians,  whom  we  had 
known  at  this  place,  and  were  probably  those 
whom  we  had  seen  to  land  from  their  canoe. 
They  appeared  to  be  in  a  state  of  extreme 
rage,  and  had  their  bows  bent,  with  their  ar- 
rows across  them.  The  guide  stopped  to  ask 
them  some  questions,  which  my  people  did 
not  understand,  and  then  set  off  with  his  ut- 
most speed.  Mr.  Mackay,  however,  did  not 
leave  him  till  they  were  both  exhausted  with 
running.  When  the  young  man  came  up,  he 
then  said,  that  some  treacherous  design  was 
meditated  against  them,  as  he  was  induced  to 
171 


JOURNAL  OP  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

believe  from  the  declaration  of  the  natives, 
who  told  him  that  they  were  going  to  do  mis- 
chief, but  refused  to  name  the  enemy.  The 
guide  then  conducted  them  through  very  bad 
ways,  as  fast  as  they  could  run ;  and  when  he 
was  desired  to  slacken  his  pace,  he  answered 
that  they  might  follow  him  in  any  manner 
they  pleased,  but  that  he  was  impatient  to 
get  to  his  family,  in  order  to  prepare  shoes^ 
and  other  necessaries,  for  his  journey.  They 
did  not,  however,  think  it  prudent  to  quit 
him,  and  he  would  not  stop  till  ten  at  night. 
On  passing  a  track  that  was  but  lately  made, 
they  began  to  be  seriously  alarmed,  and  on 
inquiring  of  the  guide  where  they  were,  he 
pretended  not  to  understand  them.  They 
then  all  laid  down,  exhausted  with  fatigue, 
and  without  any  kind  of  covering :  they  were 
cold,  wet,  and  hungry,  but  dared  not  light  a 
fire,  from  the  apprehension  of  an  enemy. 
This  comfortless  spot  they  left  at  the  dawn 
of  the  day,  and,  on  their  arrival  at  the  lodges, 
found  them  deserted;  the  proj)erty  of  the 
Indians  being  scattered  about,  as  if  aban- 
doned for  ever.  The  guide  then  made  two 
or  three  trips  into  the  woods,  calling  aloud, 
and  bellowing  like  a  madman.  At  length  he 
set  off  in  the  same  direction  as  they  came, 
and  had  not  since  appeared.  To  heighten 
their  misery,  as  they  did  not  find  us  at  the 
place  appointed,  they  concluded  that  we  were 
172 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

all  destroyed,  and  had  already  formed  their 
plan  to  take  to  the  woods,  and  cross  in  as 
direct  a  line  as  they  could  proceed,  to  the 
waters  of  the  Peace  River,  a  scheme  which 
could  only  be  suggested  by  despair.  They 
intended  to  have  waited  for  us  till  noon,  and 
if  we  did  not  appear  bj'  that  time,  to  have 
entered  without  further  delay  on  their  des- 
perate expedition. 

This  alarm  among  the  natives  was  a  very 
unexpected  as  well  as  perilous  event,  and  my 
powers  of  conjecture  were  exhausted  in 
searching  for  the  cause  of  it.  A  general 
panic  seized  all  around  me,  and  any  further 
prosecution  of  the  voyage  was  now  considered 
by  them  as  altogether  hopeless  and  imprac- 
ticable. But  without  paying  the  least  atten- 
tion to  their  opinions  or  surmises,  I  ordered 
them  to  take  every  thing  out  of  the  canoe, 
except  six  packages :  when  that  was  done,  I 
left  four  men  to  take  care  of  the  lading,  and 
returned  with  the  others  to  our  camp  of  last 
night,  where  I  hoped  to  find  the  two  men, 
with  their  families,  whom  we  had  seen  there, 
and  to  be  able  to  bring  them  to  lodge  with  us, 
when  I  should  wait  the  issue  of  this  mysteri- 
ous business.  This  project,  however,  was 
disappointed,  for  these  people  had  quitted 
their  sheds  in  the  silence  of  the  night,  and 
had  not  taken  a  single  article  of  their  little 
property  with  them. 

173 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

These  perplexing  circumstances  made  a 
deep  impression  on  my  mind,  not  as  to  our 
immediate  safety,  for  I  entertained  not  tlie 
least  apprehension  of  the  Indians  I  had  hith- 
erto seen,  even  if  their  whole  force  should 
have  been  combined  to  attack  us,  but  these 
untoward  events  seemed  to  threaten  the  pros- 
ecution of  my  journey;  and  I  could  not  re- 
flect on  the  possibility  of  such  a  disappoint- 
ment but  with  sensations  little  short  of  agony. 
Whatever  might  have  been  the  wavering  dis- 
position of  the  people  on  former  occasions, 
they  were  now  decided  in  their  opinions  as  to 
the  necessity  of  returning  without  delay ;  and 
when  we  came  back  to  them,  their  cry  was — 
"Let  us  re-embark,  and  be  gone."  This, 
however,  was  not  my  design,  and  in  a  more 
peremptory  tone  than  I  usually  employed, 
they  were  ordered  to  unload  the  canoe,  and 
take  her  out  of  the  water.  On  examining  our 
property,  several  articles  appeared  to  be  miss- 
ing, which  the  Indians  must  have  purloined ; 
and  among  them  were  an  axe,  two  knives, 
and  the  young  men's  bag  of  medicines.  We 
now  took  a  position  that  was  the  best  cal- 
culated for  defence,  got  our  arms  in  com- 
plete order,  filled  each  man's  flask  of  pow- 
der, and  distributed  an  hundred  bullets, 
which  were  all  that  remained,  while  some 
were  employed  in  melting  down  shot  to 
make  more.  The  weather  was  so  cloudy, 
174 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

that  I  had  not  an  opportunity  of  taking  an 
observation. 

While  we  were  employed  in  making  these 
preparations,  we  saw  an  Indian  in  a  canoe 
come  down  the  river,  and  land  at  the  huts, 
which  he  began  to  examine.  On  perceiving 
us  he  stood  still,  as  if  in  a  state  of  suspense, 
when  I  instantly  dispatched  one  of  my  In- 
dians towards  him,  but  no  persuasions  could 
induce  him  to  have  confidence  in  us ;  he  even 
threatened  that  he  would  hasten  to  join  his 
friends,  who  would  come  and  kill  us.  At 
the  conclusion  of  this  menace  he  disappeared. 
On  the  return  of  my  young  man,  with  this 
account  of  the  interview,  I  pretended  to  dis- 
credit the  whole,  and  attributed  it  to  his  own 
apprehensions  and  alarms.  This,  however, 
he  denied,  and  asked  with  a  look  and  tone 
of  resentment,  whether  he  had  ever  told  me  a 
lie?  Though  he  was  but  a  young  man,  he 
said,  he  had  been  on  war  excursions  before  he 
came  with  me,  and  that  he  should  no  longer 
consider  me  as  a  wise  man,  which  he  had 
hitherto  done. 

To  add  to  our  distresses  we  had  not  an 
ounce  of  gum  for  the  reparation  of  the  canoe, 
and  not  one  of  the  men  had  sufficient  courage 
to  venture  into  the  woods  to  collect  it.  In 
this  perplexing  situation  I  entertained  the 
hope  that  in  the  course  of  the  night  some  of 
the  natives  would  return,  to  take  away  a  part 
175 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

at  least  of  the  things  which  they  had  left  be- 
hind them,  as  they  had  gone  away  without 
the  covering  necessary  to  defend  them,  from 
the  weather  and  the  flies.  I  therefore  or- 
dered the  canoe  to  be  loaded,  and  dropped  to 
an  old  house,  one  side  of  which,  with  its  roof, 
had  been  carried  away  by  the  water;  but  the 
three  remaining  angles  were  sufficient  to  shel- 
ter us  from  the  woods.  I  then  ordered  two 
strong  piquets  to  be  driven  into  the  ground, 
to  which  the  canoe  was  fastened,  so  that  if 
we  were  hard  pressed  we  had  only  to  step  on 
board  and  push  off.  We  were  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  making  a  smoke  to  keep  off  the 
swarms  of  flies,  which  would  have  otherwise 
tormented  us ;  but  we  did  not  venture  to  ex- 
cite a  blaze,  as  it  would  have  been  a  mark  for 
the  arrows  of  the  enemy.  Mr.  Mackay  and 
myself,  with  three  men  kept  alternate  watch, 
and  allowed  the  Indians  to  do  as  they  fancied. 
I  took  the  first  watch,  and  the  others  laid 
down  in  their  clothes  by  us.  I  also  placed  a 
centinel  at  a  small  distance,  who  was  relieved 
every  hour.  The  weather  was  cloudy,  with 
showers  of  rain. 

Tuesday,  25. — At  one  I  called  up  the  other 
watch,  and  laid  down  to  a  small  portion  of 
broken  rest.  At  five  I  arose,  and  as  the  situ- 
ation which  we  left  yesterday  was  preferable 
to  that  which  we  then  occupied,  I  determied 
to  return  to  it.  On  our  arrival  Mr.  Mackay 
176 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

informed  me  that  the  men  had  expressed 
their  dissatisfaction  to  him  in  a  very  unre- 
served manner,  and  had  in.  very  strong  terms 
declared  their  resolution  to  follow  me  no  fur- 
ther in  my  proposed  enterprise.  I  did  not 
appear,  however,  to  have  received  such  com- 
munications from  him,  and  continued  to  em- 
ploy my  whole  thoughts  in  contriving  means 
to  bring  about  a  reconciliation  with  the  na- 
tives, which  alone  would  enable  me  to  pro- 
cure guides,  without  whose  assistance  it 
would  be  impossible  for  me  to  proceed,  when 
my  darling  project  would  end  in  disappoint- 
ment. 

At  twelve  we  saw  a  man  coming  with  the 
stream  upon  a  raft,  and  he  must  have  discov- 
ered us  before  we  perceived  him,  as  he  was 
working  very  hard  to  get  to  the  opposite 
shore,  where  he  soon  landed,  and  instantly 
fled  into  the  woods.  I  now  had  a  meridional 
altitude,  which  gave  60.  23.  natural  horizon 
(the  angle  being  more  than  the  sextant  could 
measure  with  the  artificial  horizon)  one  mile 
and  a  half  distant;  and  the  eye  five  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  water,  gave  52.  47.  51. 
North  latitude. 

While  I  was  thus  employed,  the  men  loaded 
the  canoe,  without  having  received  any  orders 
from  me,  and  as  this  was  the  first  time  they 
had  ventured  to  act  in  such  a  decided  man- 
ner, I  naturally  concluded  that  they  had  pre- 
VoL.  11—13  177 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

concerted  a  plan  for  their  return.  I  thought 
it  prudent,  however,  to  take  no  notice  of  this 
transaction,  and  to  wait  the  issue  of  future 
circumstances.  At  this  moment  our  Indians 
perceived  a  person  in  the  edge  of  the  woods 
above  us,  and  they  were  immediately  dis- 
patched to  discover  who  it  was.  After  a 
short  absence  they  returned  with  a  young 
woman  whom  we  had  seen  before :  her  lan- 
guage was  not  clearly  comprehended  by  us, 
so  that  we  could  not  learn  from  her,  at  least 
with  any  degree  of  certainty,  the  cause  of 
this  unfortunate  alarm  that  had  taken  place 
among  the  natives.  She  told  us  that  her 
errand  was  to  fetch  some  things  which  she 
had  left  behind  her;  and  one  of  the  dogs 
whom  we  found  here,  appeared  to  acknowl- 
edge her  as  his  mistress.  We  treated  her 
with  great  kindness,  gave  her  something  to 
eat,  and  added  a  present  of  such  articles  as 
we  thought  might  please  her.  On  her  ex- 
pressing a  wish  to  leave  us,  we  readily  con- 
sented to  her  departure,  and  indulged  the 
hope  that  her  reception  would  induce  the 
natives  to  return  in  peace,  and  give  us  an 
opportunity  to  convince  them,  that  we 
had  no  hostile  designs  whatever  against 
them.  On  leaving  us,  she  went  up  the 
river,  without  taking  a  single  article  of 
her  own,  and  the  dog  followed.  The  wind 
was  changeable  throughout  the  day,  and 
178 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

there   were    several   showers   in   the   course 
of  it. 

Though  a  very  apparent  anxiety  prevailed 
among  the  people  for  their  departure,  I  ap- 
peared to  be  wholly  inattentive  to  it,  and  at 
eight  in  the  evening  I  ordered  four  men  to 
step  into  the  canoe,  which  had  been  loaded 
for  several  hours,  and  drop  down  to  our 
guard-house,  and  my  command  was  imme- 
diately obeyed:  the  rest  of  us  proceeded 
there  by  land.  When  I  was  yet  at  a  consid- 
erable distance  from  the  house,  and  thought 
it  impossible  for  an  arrow  to  reach  it,  having 
a  bow  and  quiver  in  my  hand,  I  very  impru- 
dently let  fly  an  arrow,  when,  to  my  astonish- 
ment and  infinite  alarm,  I  heard  it  strike  a 
log  of  the  house.  The  men  who  had  just 
landed,  imagined  that  they  were  attacked  by 
an  enemy  from  the  woods.  Their  confusion 
was  in  proportion  to  their  imaginary  danger, 
and  on  my  arrival  I  found  that  the  arrow  had 
passed  within  a  foot  of  one  of  the  men; 
though  it  had  no  point,  the  weapon,  incredi- 
ble as  it  may  appear,  had  entered  an  hard, 
dry  log  of  wood  upwards  of  an  inch.  But 
this  was  not  all:  for  the  men  readily  availed 
themselves  of  this  circumstance,  to  remark 
upon  the  dangfer  of  remaining  in  the  power  of 
a  people  possessed  of  such  means  of  destruc- 
tion. Mr.  Mackay  having  the  first  watch,  I 
laid  myself  down  in  my  cloak. 
179 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

Wednesday f  26. — At  midnight  a  rustling 
noise  was  heard  in  the  woods  which  created 
a  general  alarm,  and  I  was  awakened  to  be 
informed  of  the  circumstance,  but  heard 
nothing.  At  one  I  took  my  turn  of  the 
watch,  and  our  dog  continued  unceasingly  to 
run  backwards  and  forwards  along  the  skirts 
of  the  wood  in  a  state  of  restless  vigilance. 
At  two  in  the  morning  the  centinel  informed 
me,  that  he  saw  something  like  an  human 
figure  creeping  along  on  all-fours  about  fifty 
paces  above  us.  After  some  time  had  passed 
in  our  search,  I  at  length  discovered  that  his 
information  was  true,  and  it  appeared  to  me 
that  a  bear  had  occasioned  the  alarm;  but 
when  day  appeared,  it  proved  to  be  an  old, 
grey -haired,  blind  man,  who  had  been  com- 
pelled to  leave  his  hiding-place  by  extreme 
hunger,  being  too  infirm  to  join  in  the  flight 
of  the  natives  to  whom  he  belonged.  When 
I  put  my  hand  on  this  object  of  decaying  na- 
ture, his  alarm  was  so  great,  that  I  expected 
it  would  have  thrown  him  into  convulsions. 
I  immediately  led  him  to  our  fire  which  had 
been  just  lighted,  and  gave  him  something  to 
eat,  which  he  much  wanted,  as  he  had  not 
tasted  food  for  two  days.  When  his  hunger 
was  satisfied,  and  he  had  got  warm  and  com- 
posed, I  requested  him  to  acquaint  me  with 
the  cause  of  that  alarm  which  had  taken  place 
respecting  us  among  his  relations  and  friends, 
180 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OP  AMERICA. 

whose  regard  we  appeared  to  have  conciliated 
but  a  few  days  past.  He  replied,  that  very 
soon  after  we  had  left  them,  some  natives  ar- 
rived from  above,  who  informed  them  that 
we  were  enemies;  and  our  unexpected  re- 
turn, in  direct  contradiction  to  our  own  dec- 
larations, confirmed  them  in  that  opinion. 
They  were  now,  he  said,  so  scattered,  that  a 
considerable  time  would  elapse,  before  they 
could  meet  again.  We  gave  him  the  real  his- 
tory of  our  return,  as  well  as  of  the  desertion 
of  our  guide,  and,  at  the  same  time,  stated 
the  impossibility  of  our  proceeding,  unless  we 
procured  a  native  to  conduct  us.  He  replied, 
that  if  he  had  not  lost  his  sight,  he  would 
with  the  greatest  readiness  have  accompanied 
us  on  our  journey.  He  also  confirmed  the  ac- 
counts which  we  had  received  of  the  country, 
and  the  route  to  the  Westward.  I  did  not 
neglect  to  employ  every  argument  in  my 
power,  that  he  might  be  persuaded  of  our 
friendly  dispositions  to  the  inhabitants  where- 
soever we  might  meet  them. 

At  sun-rise  we  perceived  a  canoe  with  one 
man  in  it  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
and  at  our  request,  the  blind  man  called  to 
him  to  come  to  us,  but  he  returned  no  answer, 
and  continued  his  course  as  fast  as  he  could 
paddle  down  the  current.  He  was  considered 
as  a  spy  by  my  men,  and  I  was  confirmed  in 
that  opinion,  when  I  saw  a  wooden  canoe 
181 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

drifting  with  the  stream  close  in  to  the  other 
shore,  where  it  was  more  than  probable  that 
some  of  the  natives  might  be  concealed.  It 
might,  therefore,  have  been  an  useless  enter- 
prise, or  perhaps  fatal  to  the  future  success 
of  our  undertaking,  if  we  had  pursued  these 
people,  as  they  might,  through  fear  have  em- 
ployed their  arms  against  us,  and  provoked 
us  to  retaliate. 

The  old  man  informed  me,  that  some  of 
the  natives  whom  I  had  seen  here  were  gone 
up  the  river,  and  those  whom  I  saw  below 
had  left  their  late  station  to  gather  a  root  in 
the  plains,  which,  when  dried,  forms  a  con- 
siderable article  in  their  winter  stock  of  pro- 
visions. He  had  a  woman,  he  said,  with 
him,  who  used  to  see  us  walking  along  the 
small  adjoining  river,  but  when  he  called  her 
he  received  no  answer,  so  that  she  had  prob- 
ably fled  to  join  her  people.  He  informed 
me,  also,  that  he  expected  a  considerable 
number  of  his  tribe  to  come  on  the  upper  part 
of  the  river  to  catch  fish  for  their  present 
support,  and  to  cure  them  for  their  winter 
store;  among  whom  he  had  a  son  and  two 
brothers. 

In  consequence  of  these  communications,  I 
deemed  it  altogether  unnecessary  to  lose  any 
more  time  at  this  place,  and  I  informed  the 
old  man  that  he  must  accompany  me  for  the 
purpose  of  introducing  us  to  his  friends  and 
182 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

relations,  and  that  if  we  met  with  his  son  or 
brothers,  I  depended  upon  him  to  persuade 
them,  or  some  of  their  party,  to  attend  us  as 
guides  in  our  meditated  expedition.  He  ex- 
pressed his  wishes  to  be  excused  from  this 
service,  and  in  other  circumstances  we  should 
not  have  insisted  on  it,  but,  situated  as  we 
were,  we  could  not  yield  to  his  request. 

At  seven  in  the  morning  we  left  this  place, 
which  I  named  Deserter's  River  or  Creek. 
Our  blind  guide  was,  however,  so  averse  to 
continuing  with  us,  that  I  was  under  the  very 
disagreeable  necessity  of  ordering  the  men  to 
carry  him  into  the  canoe ;  and  this  was  the 
first  act  during  my  voyage,  that  had  the  sem- 
blance of  violent  dealing.  He  continued  to 
speak  in  a  very  loud  tone,  while  he  remained, 
according  to  his  conjecture,  near  enough  to 
the  camp  to  be  heard,  but  in  a  language  that 
our  interpreters  did  not  understand.  On  ask- 
ing him  what  he  said,  and  why  he  did  not 
speak  in  a  language  known  to  us,  he  replied, 
that  the  woman  understood  him  better  in  that 
which  he  spoke,  and  he  requested  her,  if  she 
heard  him,  to  come  for  him  to  the  carrying- 
place,  where  he  expected  we  should  leave  him. 

At  length  our  canoe  was  become  so  leaky, 
that  it  was  absolutely  unfit  for  service ;  and 
it  was  the  unremitting  employment  of  one 
person  to  keep  her  clear  of  water :  we,  there- 
fore, inquired  of  the  old  man  where  we  could 
183 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

conveniently  obtain  the  articles  necessary  to 
build  a  new  one ;  and  we  understood  from  him 
that,  at  some  distance  up  the  river,  we  should 
find  plenty  of  bark  and  cedar. 

At  ten,  being  at  the  foot  of  a  rapid,  we  saw 
a  small  canoe  coming  down  with  two  men  in 
it.  We  thought  it  would  be  impossible  for 
them  to  escape,  and  therefore  struck  off  from 
the  shore  with  a  design  to  intercept  them, 
directing  the  old  man  at  the  same  time  to  ad- 
dress them ;  but  they  no  sooner  perceived  us, 
than  they  steered  into  the  strength  of  the 
current,  where  I  thought  that  they  must  in- 
evitably perish ;  but  their  attention  appeared 
to  be  engrossed  by  the  situation  of  their 
canoe,  and  they  escaped  without  making  us 
the  least  reply. 

About  three  in  the  afternoon  we  perceived 
a  lodge  at  the  entrance  of  a  considerable  river 
on  the  right,  as  well  as  the  tracks  of  people 
in  the  mud  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  river  on 
the  left.  As  they  appeard  to  be  fresh,  we 
landed,  and  endeavoured  to  trace  them,  but 
without  success.  We  then  crossed  over  to 
the  lodge,  which  was  deserted,  but  all  the 
usual  furniture  of  such  buildings  remained  un- 
touched. 

Throughout  the  whole  of  this  day  the  men 

had  been  in  a  state  of  extreme  ill-humour, 

and  as  they  did  not  choose  openly  to  vent  it 

"apoa  me,  they  disputed  and  quarrelled  among 

184 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  A]VIERICA. 

themselves.  About  sun-set  the  canoe  struck 
upon  the  stump  of  a  tree,  which  broke  a  large 
hole  in  her  bottom ;  a  circumstance  that  gave 
them  an  opportunity  to  let  loose  their  discon- 
tents without  reserve.  I  left  them  as  soon  as 
we  had  landed,  and  ascended  an  elevated 
bank,  in  a  state  of  mind  which  I  scarce  wish 
to  recollect,  and  shall  not  attempt  to  describe. 
At  this  place  there  was  a  subterraneous 
house,  where  I  determined  to  pass  the  night. 
The  water  had  risen  since  we  had  passed 
down,  and  it  was  with  the  utmost  exertion 
that  we  came  up  several  points  in  the  course 
of  the  day. 

We  embarked  at  half  past  four,  with  very 
favourable  weather,  and  at  eight  we  landed, 
where  there  was  an  appearance  of  our  being 
able  to  procure  bark ;  we,  however,  obtained 
but  a  small  quantity.  At  twelve  we  went  on 
shore  again,  and  collected  as  much  as  was 
necessary  for  our  purpose.  It  now  remained 
for  us  to  fix  on  a  proper  place  for  building 
another  canoe,  as  it  was  impossible  to  proceed 
with  our  old  one,  which  was  become  an  abso- 
lute wreck.  At  five  in  the  afternoon  we  came 
to  a  spot  well  adapted  to  the  business  in 
which  we  were  about  to  engage.  It  was  on 
a  small  island  not  much  encumbered  with 
wood,  though  there  was  plenty  of  the  spruce 
kind  on  the  opposite  land,  which  was  only 
divided  from  us  by  a  small  channel.  We  nov 
185 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

landed,  but  before  the  canoe  was  unloaded, 
and  the  tent  pitched,  a  violent  thunder-storm 
came  on,  accompanied  with  rain,  which  did 
not  subside  till  the  night  had  closed  in  upon 
us.  Two  of  our  men  who  had  been  in  the 
woods  for  axe-handles,  saw  a  deer,  and  one 
of  them  shot  at  it,  but  unluckily  missed  his 
aim.  A  net  was  also  prepared  and  set  in  the 
eddy  at  the  end  of  the  island. 


186 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

JUKE,  1793. 

Friday,  28. — At  a  very  early  hour  of  the 
morning  every  man  was  employed  in  making 
preparations  for  building  another  canoe,  and 
different  parties  went  in  search  of  wood, 
watape,  and  gum.  At  two  in  the  afternoon 
they  all  returned  successful,  except  the  col- 
lectors of  gum,  and  of  that  article  it  was 
feared  we  should  not  obtain  here  a  sufficient 
supply  for  our  immediate  wants.  After  a 
necessary  portion  of  time  allotted  for  refresh- 
ment, each  began  his  respective  work.  I  had 
an  altitude  at  noon,  which  made  us  in  53.  2. 
32.  North  latitude. 

Saturday,  29. — The  weather  continued  to  be 
fine.  At  five  o'clock  we  renewed  our  labour, 
and  the  canoe  was  got  in  a  state  of  considerable 
forwardness.  The  conductor  of  the  work, 
though  a  good  man,  was  remarkable  for  the 
tardiness  of  his  operations,  whatever  they 
might  be,  and  more  disposed  to  eat  than  to 
be  active ;  I  therefore  took  this  opportunity 
of  unfolding  my  sentiments  to  him,  and  there- 
by discovering  to  all  around  me  the  real  state 
of  my  mind,  and  the  resolutions  I  had  formed 
for  my  future  conduct.  After  reproaching 
187 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

him  for  his  general  inactivity,  but  particu- 
larly on  the  present  occasion,  when  our  time 
was  so  precious,  I  mentioned  the  apparent 
want  of  economy,  both  of  himself  and  his 
companions,  in  the  article  of  provisions.  I 
informed  him  that  I  was  not  altogether  a 
stranger  to  their  late  conversations,  from 
whence  I  drew  the  conclusion  that  they 
wished  to  put  an  end  to  the  voyage i  K  that 
were  so,  I  expressed  my  wish  that  they  would 
be  explicit,  and  tell  me  at  once  of  their  de- 
termination to  follow  me  no  longer.  I  con- 
cluded, however,  by  assuring  him,  that  what- 
ever plan  they  had  meditated  to  pursue,  it 
was  my  fixed  and  unalterable  determination 
to  proceed,  in  spite  of  every  difficulty  that 
might  oppose,  or  danger  that  should  threaten 
me.  The  man  was  very  much  mortified  at 
my  addressing  this  remonstrance  particularly 
to  him ;  and  replied  that  he  did  not  deserve 
my  displeasure  more  than  the  rest  of  them. 
My  object  being  answered,  the  conversation 
dropped,  and  the  work  went  on. 

About  two  in  the  afternoon  one  of  the  men 
perceived  a  canoe  with  two  natives  in  it, 
coming  along  the  inside  of  the  island,  but  the 
water  being  shallow,  it  turned  back,  and  we 
imagined  that  on  perceiving  us  they  had  taken 
the  alarm ;  but  we  were  agreeably  surprised 
on  seeing  them  come  up  the  outside  of  the 
island,  when  we  recognised  our  guide,  and 
188 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OP  AMERICA. 

one  of  the  natives  whom  we  had  already  seen. 
The  former  began  immediately  to  apologize 
for  his  conduct,  and  assured  me  that  since  he 
had  left  me,  his  whole  time  had  been  employed 
in  searching  after  his  family,  who  had  been 
seized  with  the  general  panic,  that  had  been 
occasioned  by  the  false  reports  of  the  people 
who  had  first  fled  from  us.  He  said  it  was 
generally  apprehended  by  the  natives,  that 
we  had  been  unfriendly  to  their  relations 
above,  who  were  expected  upon  the  river  in 
great  numbers  at  this  time :  and  that  many  of 
the  Atnah  or  Chin  nation,  had  come  up  the 
river  to  where  we  had  been,  in  the  hope  of 
seeing  us,  and  were  very  much  displeased 
with  him  and  his  friends  for  having  neglected 
to  give  them  an  early  notice  of  our  arrival 
there.  He  added,  that  the  two  men  whom 
we  had  seen  yesterday,  or  the  day  before, 
were  just  returned  from  their  rendezvous, 
with  the  natives  of  the  sea  coast,  and  had 
brought  a  message  from  his  brother-in-law, 
that  he  had  a  new  axe  for  him,  and  not  to 
forget  to  bring  a  moose-skin  dressed  in  ex- 
change, which  he  actually  had  in  his  canoe. 
He  expected  to  meet  him,  he  said,  at  the 
other  end  of  the  carrying-place. 

This  was  as  pleasing  intelligence  as  we  had 

reason  to  expect,  and  it  is  almost  superfluous 

to  observe  that  we  stood  in  great  need  of  it. 

I  had  a  meridian  altitude,  which  gave  53.  3. 

189 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

7.  North  latitude.  I  also  took  time  in  the 
fore  and  afternoon,  that  gave  a  mean  of 
1.  37.  42.  Achrometer  slow  apparent  time, 
which,  with  an  observed  immersion  of  Jupi- 
ter's first  satellite,  made  our  longitude  122. 
48.  West  of  Greenwich. 

The  blind  old  man  gave  a  very  favourable 
account  of  us  to  his  friends,  and  they  all 
three  were  very  merry  together  during  the 
whole  of  the  afternoon.  That  our  guide, 
however,  might  not  escape  from  us  during 
the  night,  I  determined  to  set  a  watch  upon 
him. 

Sunday,  30. — Our  strangers  conducted 
themselves  with  great  good  humour  through- 
out the  day.  According  to  their  information, 
we  should  find  their  friends  above  and  below 
the  carrying-place.  They  mentioned,  also, 
that  some  of  them  were  not  of  their  tribe, 
but  are  allied  to  the  people  of  the  sea  coast, 
who  trade  with  the  white  men.  I  had  a 
meridian  altitude,  that  gave  53.  3.  "•'<'.  North 
latitude. 

JULY.  Monday,  1. — Last  night  I  had  the 
first  watch,  when  one  of  my  Indians  proposed 
to  sit  up  with  me,  as  he  understood,  from 
the  old  man's  conversation,  that  he  intended, 
in  the  course  of  the  night,  to  make  his  es- 
cape. Accordingly,  at  eleven  I  extinguished 
my  light,  and  sat  quietly  in  my  tent,  from 
whence  I  could  observe  the  motions  of  the 
190 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

natives.  About  twelve,  though  the  night  was 
rather  dark,  I  observed  the  old  man  creeping 
on  his  hands  and  knees  towards  the  water- 
side. We  accordingly  followed  him  very 
quietly  to  the  canoe,  and  he  would  have  gone 
away  with  it,  if  he  had  not  been  interrupted 
in  his  design.  On  upbraiding  him  for  his 
treacherous  conduct,  when  he  had  been  treated 
with  so  much  kindness  by  us,  he  denied  the 
intention  of  which  we  accused  him,  and  de- 
clared that  his  sole  object  was  to  assuage  his 
thirst.  At  length,  however,  he  acknowledged 
the  truth,  and  when  we  brought  him  to  the 
fire,  his  friends,  who  now  awoke,  on  being 
informed  of  what  had  passed,  reprobated  his 
conduct,  and  asked  him  how  he  could  expect 
that  the  white  people  would  return  to  this 
country,  if  they  experienced  such  ungrateful 
treatment.  The  guide  said,  for  his  part,  he 
was  not  a  woman,  and  would  never  run  away 
through  fear.  But  notwithstanding  this  cour- 
ageous declaration,  at  once  I  awakened  Mr. 
Mackay,  related  to  him  what  had  passed,  and 
requested  him  not  to  indulge  himself  in  sleep, 
till  I  should  rise.  It  was  seven  before  I 
awoke,  and  on  quitting  my  tent  I  was  sur- 
prised at  not  seeing  the  guide  and  his  com- 
panion, and  my  apprehensions  were  increased 
when  I  observed  that  the  canoe  was  removed 
from  its  late  situation.  To  my  inquiries  after 
them,  some  of  the  men  very  composedly  an- 
191 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

swered,  that  they  were  gone  up  the  river, 
and  had  left  the  old  man  behind  them.  Mr. 
Mackay  also  told  me,  that  while  he  was  busily 
employed  on  the  canoe,  they  had  got  to  the 
point  before  he  had  observed  their  departure. 
The  interpreter  now  informed  me  that  at  the 
dawn  of  day  the  guide  had  expressed  his  de- 
sign, as  soon  as  the  sun  was  up,  to  go  and 
wait  for  us,  where  he  might  find  his  friends. 
I  hoped  this  might  be  true ;  but  that  my  peo- 
ple should  suffer  them  to  depart  without  giv- 
ing me  notice,  was  a  circumstance  that  awak- 
ened very  painful  reflections  in  my  breast. 
The  weather  was  clear  in  the  forenoon.  My 
observation  this  day  gave  53.  3.  32.  North 
latitude. 

At  five  in  the  afternoon  our  vessel  was 
completed,  and  ready  for  service.  She  proved 
a  stronger  and  better  boat  than  the  old  one, 
though  had  it  not  been  for  the  gum  obtained 
from  the  latter,  it  would  have  been  a  matter 
of  great  difficulty  to  have  procured  a  suffi- 
ciency of  that  article  to  have  prevented  her 
from  leaking.  The  remainder  of  the  day  was 
employed  by  the  people  in  cleaning  and  re- 
freshing themselves,  as  they  had  enjoyed  no 
relaxation  from  their  labour  since  we  landed 
on  this  spot. 

The  old  man  having  manifested  for  various 
and  probably  very  fallacious  reasons,  a  very 
great  aversion  to  accompany  us  any  further, 
192 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

it  did  not  appear  that  there  was  any  necessity 
to  force  his  inclination.  We  now  put  our 
arms  in  order,  which  was  soon  accomplished, 
as  they  were  at  all  times  a  general  object  of 
attention. 

Tuesday,  2. — It  rained  throughout  the 
night,  but  at  half  past  three  we  were  ready 
to  embark,  when  I  offered  to  conduct  the  old 
man  where  he  had  supposed  we  should  meet 
his  friends,  but  he  declined  the  proposition. 
I  therefore  directed  a  few  pounds  of  pemmi- 
can  to  be  left  with  him,  for  his  immediate 
support,  and  took  leave  of  him  and  the  place, 
which  I  named  Canoe  Island.  During  our 
stay  there  we  had  been  most  cruelly  tor- 
mented by  flies,  particulai-ly  the  sand-fly, 
which  I  am  disposed  to  consider  as  the  most 
tormenting  insect  of  its  size  in  nature.  I  was 
also  compelled  to  put  the  people  upon  short 
allowance,  and  confine  them  to  two  meals 
a-day,  a  regulation  peculiarly  offensive  to  a 
Canadian  voyager.  One  of  these  meals  was 
composed  of  the  dried  rows  of  fish,  pounded, 
and  boiled  in  water,  thickened  with  a  small 
quantity  of  flour,  and  fattened  with  a  bit  of 
grian.  These  articles,  being  brought  to  the 
consistency  of  an  hasty  pudding,  produced  a 
substantial  and  not  unpleasant  dish.  The 
natives  are  very  careful  of  the  rows  of  fish, 
which  they  dry,  and  preserve  in  baskets  made 
of  bark.  Those  we  used  were  found  in  the 
Vol.  II.— 13  193 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

liuts  of  the  first  people  who  fled  from  us. 
During  our  abode  in  Canoe  Island,  the  water 
sunk  three  perpendicular  feet.  I  now  gave 
the  men  a  dram  each,  which  could  not  but  be 
considered,  at  this  time,  as  a  very  comfortable 
treat.  They  were,  indeed,  in  high  spirits, 
when  they  perceived  the  superior  excellence 
of  the  new  vessel,  and  reflected  that  it  was 
the  work  of  their  own  hands. 

At  eleven  we  arrived  at  the  rapids,  and  the 
foreman,  who  had  not  forgotten  the  fright  he 
suffered  on  coming  down  it,  proposed  that  the 
canoe  and  lading  should  be  carried  over  the 
mountain.  I  threatened  him  with  taking  the 
office  of  foreman  on  myself,  and  suggested  the 
evident  change  there  was  in  the  appearance 
of  the  water  since  we  passed  it,  which  upon 
examination  had  sunk  four  feet  and  an  half. 
As  the  water  did  not  seem  so  strong  on  the 
West  side,  I  determined  to  cross  over,  having 
first  put  Mr.  Mackay,  and  our  two  hunters, 
on  shore,  to  try  the  woods  for  game.  We 
accordingly  traversed,  and  got  up  close  along 
the  rocks,  to  a  considerable  distance,  with 
the  paddles,  when  we  could  proceed  no  fur- 
ther without  assistance  from  the  line ;  and  to 
draw  it  across  a  perpendicular  rock,  for  the 
distance  of  fifty  fathoms,  appeared  to  be  an 
insurmountable  obstacle.  The  general  opin- 
ion was  to  return,  and  carry  on  the  other 
side  J  I  desired,  however,  two  of  the  men  to 
194 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

take  the  line,  which  was  seventy  fathoms  in 
length,  with  a  small  roll  of  bark,  and  en- 
deavour to  climb  up  the  rocks,  from  whence 
they  were  to  descend  on  the  other  side  of 
that  which  opposed  our  progress ;  they  were 
then  to  fasten  the  end  of  the  Ime  to  the  roll 
of  bark,  which  the  current  would  bring  to 
us ;  this  being  effected,  they  would  be  able  to 
draw  us  up.  This  was  an  enterprise  of  diJBB.- 
culty  and  danger,  but  it  was  crowned  with 
success;  though  to  get  to  the  water's  edge 
above,  the  men  were  obliged  to  let  themselves 
down  with  the  line,  run  round  a  tree,  from 
the  summit  of  the  rock.  By  a  repetition  of 
the  same  operation,  we  at  length  cleared  the 
rapid,  with  the  additional  trouble  of  carrying 
the  canoe,  and  unloading  at  two  cascades. 
"We  were  not  more  than  two  hours  getting  up 
this  difficult  part  of  the  river,  including  the 
time  employed  in  repairing  an  hole  which 
had  been  broken  in  the  canoe,  by  the  negli- 
gence of  the  steersman. 

Here  we  expected  to  meet  with  the  natives, 
but  there  was  not  the  least  appearance  of 
them,  except  that  the  guide,  his  companion, 
and  two  others,  had  apparently  passed  the 
carrying-place.  We  saw  several  fish  leap  out 
of  the  water,  which  appeared  to  be  of  the 
salmon  kind.  The  old  man,  indeed,  had  in- 
formed us  that  this  was  the  season  when  the 
large  fish  begin  to  come  up  the  river.  Our 
195 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

hunters  returned,  but  had  not  seen  the  track 
of  any  animal.  We  now  continued  our  jour- 
ney ;  the  current  was  not  strong,  but  we  met 
with  frequent  impediments  from  the  fallen 
trees,  which  lay  along  the  banks.  We  landed 
at  eight  in  the  evening;  and  suffered  inde- 
scribable inconveniences  from  the  flies. 

Wed7iesdayy  3. — It  had  rained  hard  in  the 
night,  and  there  was  some  small  rain  in  the 
morning.  At  four  we  entered  our  canoe,  and 
at  ten  we  came  to  a  small  river,  which  an- 
swered to  the  description  of  that  whose  course 
the  natives  said,  they  follow  in  their  journies 
towards  the  sea  coast ;  we  therefore  put  into 
it,  and  endeavoured  to  discover  if  our  guide 
had  landed  here ;  but  there  were  no  traces  of 
him  or  of  any  others.  My  former  perplexi- 
ties were  now  renewed.  If  I  passed  this 
river,  it  was  probable  that  I  might  miss  the 
natives ;  and  I  had  reason  to  suspect  that  my 
men  would  not  consent  to  return  thither.  As 
for  attempting  the  woods,  without  a  guide, 
to  introduce  us  to  the  first  inhabitants,  such 
a  determination  would  be  little  short  of  abso- 
lute madness.  At  length,  after  much  painful 
reflection,  I  resolved  to  come  at  once  to  a  full 
explanation  with  my  people,  and  I  experi- 
enced a  considerable  relief  from  this  resolu- 
tion. Accordingly,  after  repeating  the  prom- 
ise they  had  so  lately  made  me,  on  our  put- 
ting back  up  the  river,  I  represented  to  them 
196 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

that  this  appeared  to  me  to  be  the  spot  from 
which  the  natives  took  their  departure  for 
the  sea  coast,  and  added,  withal,  that  I  was 
determined  to  try  it:  for  though  our  guide 
had  left  us,  it  was  possible  that,  while  we 
were  making  the  necessary  preparations,  he 
or  some  others  might  appear,  to  relieve  us 
from  our  present  difficulties.  I  now  found, 
to  my  great  satisfaction,  that  they  had  not 
come  to  any  fixed  determination  among  them- 
selves, as  some  of  them  immediately  assented 
to  undertake  the  woods  with  me.  Others, 
however,  suggested  that  it  might  be  better  to 
proceed  a  few  leagues  further  up  the  river,  in 
expectation  of  finding  our  guide,  or  procuring 
another,  and  that  after  all  we  might  return 
hither.  This  plan  I  very  readily  agreed  to 
adopt,  but  before  I  left  this  place,  to  which  I 
gave  the  name  of  the  West-Road  River,  I 
sent  some  of  the  men  into  the  woods,  in  dif- 
ferent directions,  and  went  some  distance  up 
the  river  myself,  which  I  found  to  be  navi- 
gable only  for  small  canoes.  Two  of  the  men 
found  a  good  beaten  path,  leading  up  a  hill 
just  behind  us,  which  I  imagined  to  be  the 
great  road. 

At  four  in  the  afternoon  we  left  this  place, 
proceeding  up  the  river;  and  had  not  been 
upon  the  water  more  than  three  quarters  of 
an  hour,  when  we  saw  two  canoes  coming 
with  the  stream.  No  sooner  did  the  people 
197 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

in  them  perceive  us  than  they  landed,  and 
we  went  on  shore  at  the  same  place  with 
them.  They  proved  to  be  our  guide,  and  six 
of  his  relations.  He  was  covered  with  a 
painted  beaver  robe,  so  that  we  scarcely  knew 
him  in  his  fine  habiliment.  He  instantly  de- 
sired us  to  acknowledge  that  he  had  not  dis- 
appointed us,  and  declared,  at  the  same  time, 
that  it  was  his  constant  intention  to  keep  his 
word.  I  accordingly  gave  him  a  jacket,  a 
pair  of  trowsers,  and  a  handkerchief,  as  a  re- 
ward for  his  honourable  conduct.  The  stran- 
gers examined  us  with  the  most  minute  atten- 
tion, and  two  of  them,  as  I  was  now  informed, 
belonged  to  the  people  whom  we  first  saw, 
and  who  fled  with  so  much  alarm  from  us. 
They  told  me,  also,  that  they  were  so  ter- 
rified on  that  occasion,  as  not  to  apj^roach 
their  huts  for  two  days ;  and  that  when  they 
ventured  thither,  they  found  the  greater  part 
of  their  property  destroyed,  by  the  fire  run- 
ning in  the  ground.  According  to  their  ac- 
count, they  were  of  a  different  tribe,  though 
I  found  no  difference  in  their  language  from 
that  of  the  Nagailas  or  Carriers.  They  are 
called  Nascud  Denee.  Their  lodges  were  at 
some  distance,  on  a  small  lake,  where  they 
take  fish,  and  if  our  guide  had  not  gone  for 
them  there,  we  should  not  have  seen  a  human 
being  on  the  river.  They  informed  me  that 
the  road  by  their  habitation  is  the  shortest, 
198 


NORTH-WEST  CONTHSTENT  OF  AMERICA. 

and  they  proposed  that  we  should  take 
it. 

Thursday,  4. — At  an  early  hour  this  morn- 
ing, and  at  the  suggestion  of  our  guide,  we 
proceeded  to  the  landing-place  that  leads  to 
the  strangers'  lodges.  Our  great  difficulty 
here  was  to  procure  a  temporary  separation 
from  our  company,  in  order  to  hide  some 
articles  we  could  not  carry  with  us,  and 
which  it  would  have  been  imprudent  to  leave 
in  the  power  of  the  natives.  Accordingly 
Mr.  Mackay,  and  one  of  our  Indians  em- 
barked with  them,  and  soon  run  out  of  our 
sight.  At  our  first  hiding-place  we  left  a 
bag  of  pemmican,  weighing  ninety  pounds, 
two  bags  of  wild  rice,  and  a  gallon  keg  of 
gunpowder.  Previous  to  our  putting  these 
articles  in  the  ground,  we  rolled  them  up  in 
oilcloth,  and  dressed  leather.  In  the  second 
hiding-place,  and  guarded  with  the  same  roll- 
ers, we  hid  two  bags  of  Indian  corn,  or  maize, 
and  a  bale  of  different  articles  of  merchan- 
dise. When  we  had  completed  this  impor- 
tant object,  we  proceeded  till  half  past  eight, 
when  we  landed  at  the  entrance  of  a  small 
rivulet,  where  our  friends  were  waiting  for  us. 

Here  it  wa-s  necessary  that  we  should  leave 
our  canoe,  and  whatever  we  could  not  carry 
on  our  backs.  In  the  first  place,  therefore, 
we  prepared  a  stage,  on  which  the  canoe  was 
placed  bottom  upwards,  and  shaded  by  a 
199 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

covering  of  small  trees  and  branches,  to  keep 
her  from  the  sun.  We  then  built  an  oblong 
hollow  square,  ten  feet  by  five,  of  green  logs, 
wherein  we  placed  every  article  it  was  neces- 
sary for  us  to  leave  here,  and  covered  the 
whole  with  large  pieces  of  timber. 

While  we  were  eagerly  employed  in  this 
necessary  business,  our  guide  and  his  com- 
panions were  so  impatient  to  be  gone,  that 
we  could  not  persuade  the  former  to  wait  till 
we  were  prepared  for  our  departure,  and  we 
had  some  difficulty  in  persuading  another  of 
the  natives  to  remain,  who  had  undertook  to 
conduct  us  where  the  guide  had  promised  to 
wait  our  arrival. 

At  noon  we  were  in  a  state  of  preparation 
to  enter  the  woods,  an  undertaking  of  which. 
I  shall  not  here  give  any  preliminary  opinion, 
but  leave  those  who  read  it  to  judge  for 
themselves. 

We  carried  on  our  backs  four  bags  and  a 
half  of  pemmican,  weighing  from  eighty-five 
to  ninety  pounds  each ;  a  case  with  my  in- 
struments, a  parcel  of  goods  for  presents, 
weighing  ninety  pounds,  and  a  parcel  con- 
taining ammunition  of  the  same  weight. 
Each  of  the  Canadians  had  a  burden  of  about 
ninety  pounds,  with  a  gun,  and  some  ammu- 
nition. The  Indians  had  about  forty-five 
pounds  weight  of  pemmican  to  carry,  besides 
their  gun,  &c.,  with  which  they  were  very 
200 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

much  dissatisfied,  and  if  they  had  dared 
would  have  instantly  left  us.  They  had 
hitherto  been  very  much  indulged,  but  the 
moment  was  now  arrived,  when  indulgence 
was  no  longer  practicable.  My  own  load, 
and  that  of  Mr.  Mackay,  consisted  of  twenty- 
two  pounds  of  pemmican,  some  rice,  a  little 
sugar,  &c.,  amounting  in  the  whole  to  about 
seventy  pounds  each,  besides  our  arms  and 
ammunition.  I  had  also  the  tube  of  my  tele- 
scope swung  across  my  shoulder,  which  was  a 
troublesome  addition  to  my  burthen.  It  was 
determined  that  we  should  content  ourselves 
with  two  meals  a  day,  which  were  regulated 
without  difficulty,  as  our  provisions  did  not 
require  the  ceremony  of  cooking. 

In  this  state  of  equipment  we  began  our 
journey,  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  about 
twelve  at  noon,  the  commencement  of  which 
was  a  steep  ascent  of  about  a  mile;  it  lay 
along  a  well-beaten  path,  but  the  country 
through  which  it  led  was  rugged  and  ridgy, 
and  full  of  wood.  When  we  were  in  a  state 
of  extreme  heat,  from  the  toil  of  our  journey, 
the  rain  came  on,  and  continued  till  evening, 
and  even  when  it  ceased,  the  underwood  con- 
tinued its  drippings  upon  us. 

About  half  past  six  we  arrived  at  an  Indian 
camp  of  three  fires,  where  we  found  our 
guide,  and  on  his  recommendation  we  deter- 
mined to  remain  there  for  the  night.  The 
201 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

computed  distance  of  this  day's  journey  was 
about  twelve  geographical  miles ;  the  course 
about  West. 

At  sun-set,  an  elderly  man  and  three  other 
natives  joined  us  from  the  Westward.  The 
former  bore  a  lance,  which  very  much  resem- 
bled a  Serjeant's  halberd.  He  had  lately  re- 
ceived it,  by  way  of  barter,  from  the  natives 
of  the  Sea-Coast,  who  procured  it  from  the 
white  men.  We  should  meet,  he  said,  with 
many  of  his  countrymen,  who  had  just  re- 
turned from  thence.  According  to  his  report, 
it  did  not  require  more  than  six  days'  journey, 
for  people  who  are  not  heavily  laden,  to  reach 
the  country  of  those  with  whom  they  bartered 
their  skins  for  iron,  &c. ,  and  from  thence  it 
is  not  quite  two  days'  march  to  the  sea. 
They  proposed  to  send  two  young  men  on 
before  us,  to  notify  to  the  different  tribes 
that  we  were  approaching,  that  they  might 
not  be  surprised  at  our  appearance,  and  be 
disposed  to  afford  us  a  friendly  reception. 
This  was  a  measure  which  I  could  not  but 
approve,  and  endeavoured  by  some  small 
presents  to  prepossess  our  couriers  in  our 
favour. 

These  people  live  but  poorly  at  this  season, 
-and  I  could  procure  no  provision  from  them, 
but  a  few  small,  dried  fish,  as  I  think,  of  the 
carp  kind.  They  had  several  European  arti- 
cles; and  one  of  them  had  a  strip  of  fur, 
202 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA, 

which  appeared  to  me  to  be  of  the  sea  otter. 
He  obtained  it  from  the  natives  of  the  coast, 
and  exchanged  it  with  me  for  some  beads  and 
a  brass  cross. 

We  retired  to  rest  in  as  much  security  as  if 
we  had  been  long  habituated  to  a  confidence 
in  our  present  associates :  indeed,  we  had  no 
alternative ;  for  so  great  were  the  fatigues  of 
the  day  in  our  mode  of  travelling,  that  we 
were  in  great  need  of  rest  at  night. 

Friday,  5. — We  had  no  sooner  laid  our- 
selves down  to  rest  last  night,  than  the  natives 
began  to  sing,  in  a  manner  very  different  from 
what  I  had  been  accustomed  to  hear  among 
savages.  It  was  not  accompanied  either  with 
dancing,  drum,  or  rattle;  but  consisted  of 
soft  plaintive  tones,  and  a  modulation  that 
was  rather  agreeable:  it  had  somewhat  the 
air  of  church  music.  As  the  natives  had  re- 
quested me  not  to  quit  them  at  a  very  early 
hour  in  the  morning,  it  was  five  before  I  de- 
sired that  the  young  men,  who  were  to  pro- 
ceed with  us,  should  depart,  when  they  pre- 
pared to  set  off :  but  on  calling  to  our  guide 
to  conduct  us,  he  said  that  he  did  not  intend 
to  accompany  us  any  further  j  as  the  young- 
men  would  answer  our  purpose  as  well  as 
himself.  I  knew  it  would  be  in  vain  to  re- 
monstrate with  him,  and  therefore  submitted 
to  his  caprice  without  a  reply.  However,  I 
thought  proper  to  inform  him,  that  one  of 
203 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

my  people  had  lost  his  dag  or  poignard,  and 
requested  his  assistance  in  the  recovery  of  it. 
He  asked  me  what  I  would  give  him  to  con- 
jure it  back  agam ;  and  a  knife  was  agreed 
to  be  the  price  of  his  necromantic  exertions. 
Accordingly,  all  the  dags  and  knives  in  the 
place  were  gathered  together,  and  the  natives 
formed  a  circle  round  them ;  the  conjurer  also 
remaining  in  the  middle.  When  this  part  of 
the  ceremony  was  arranged,  he  began  to  sing, 
the  rest  joining  in  the  chorus ;  and  after  some 
time  he  produced  the  poignard,  which  was 
stuck  in  the  ground,  and  returned  it  to  me. 

At  seven  we  were  ready  to  depart ;  when  I 
was  surprised  to  hear  our  late  guide  propose, 
without  any  solicitation  on  our  part,  to  re- 
sume his  office ;  and  he  actually  conducted  us 
as  far  as  a  small  lake,  where  we  found  an 
encampment  of  three  families.  The  young 
men  who  had  undertaken  to  conduct  us,  were 
not  well  understood  by  my  interpreters,  who 
continued  to  be  so  displeased  with  their  jour- 
ney, that  they  performed  this  part  of  their 
duty  with  great  reluctance.  I  endeavoured  to 
persuade  an  elderly  man  of  this  encampment 
to  accompany  us  to  the  next  tribe,  but  no  in- 
ducement of  mine  could  prevail  on  him  to 
comply  with  my  wishes.  I  was,  therefore, 
obliged  to  content  myself  with  the  guides  I 
liad  already  engaged,  for  whom  we  were 
obliged  to  wait  some  time,  till  they  had  pro- 
204 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA- 

vided  shoes  for  their  journey.  I  exchanged 
two  halfpence  here,  one  of  his  present  Ma- 
jesty, and  the  other  of  the  State  of  Massa- 
chusett's  Bay,  coined  in  1787.  They  hung 
as  ornaments  in  children's  ears. 

My  situation  here  was  rendered  rather  un- 
pleasant by  the  treatment  which  my  hunters 
received  from  these  people.  The  former,  it 
appeared,  were  considered  as  belonging  to  a 
tribe  who  inhabit  the  mountains,  and  are  the 
natural  enemies  of  the  latter.  We  had  also 
been  told  by  one  of  the  natives,  of  a  very 
stern  aspect,  that  he  had  been  stabbed  by  a 
relation  of  theirs,  and  pointed  to  a  scar  as  the 
proof  of  it.  I  was,  therefore,  very  glad  to 
proceed  on  my  journey. 

Our  guides  conducted  us  along  the  lake 
through  thick  woods,  and  without  any  path, 
for  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  when  we  lost 
sight  of  it.  This  piece  of  water  is  about 
three  miles  long  and  one  broad.  We  then 
crossed  a  creek  and  entered  upon  a  beaten 
track,  through  an  open  country,  sprinkled 
with  Cyprus  trees.  At  twelve  the  sky  became 
black,  and  a  heavy  gust  with  rain  shortly 
followed,  which  continued  for  upwards  of  an 
hour.  When  we  perceived  the  approaching 
storm,  we  fixed  our  thin  light  oil-cloth  to 
screen  us  from  it.  On  renewing  our  march, 
as  the  bushes  were  very  wet,  I  desired  our 
guides,  they  having  no  burdens,  to  walk  in 
205 


JOURNAL  OP  A.  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

front  and  beat  them  as  thej  went :  this  task 
they  chose  to  decline,  and  accordingly  I  un- 
dertook it.  Our  road  now  lay  along  a  lake, 
and  across  a  creek  that  ran  into  it.  The 
guides  informed  me,  that  this  part  of  the 
country  abounds  in  beaver :  many  traps  were 
geen  along  the  road,  which  had  been  set  for 
lynxes  and  martens.  About  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  place  where  we  had  been  stop- 
ped by  tho  rain,  the  ground  was  covered  with 
hail,  and  as  we  advanced,  the  hailstones  in- 
creased in  size,  some  of  them  being  as  big  as 
musket-balls.  In  this  manner  was  the  ground 
whitened  for  upwards  of  two  miles.  At  five 
in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  on  the  banks  of 
another  lake,  when  it  again  threatened  rain; 
and  we  had  already  been  sufficiently  wetted 
in  the  course  of  the  day,  to  look  with  com- 
placency towards  a  repetition  of  it:  we  ac- 
cordingly fixed  our  shed,  the  rain  continuing 
with  great  violence  through  the  remainder  of 
the  day:  it  was  therefore  determined,  that 
we  should  stop  here  for  the  night. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  we  passed  three 
winter  huts;  they  consisted  of  low  walls, 
with  a  ridge  pole,  covered  with  the  branches 
of  the  Canadian  balsam-tree.  One  of  my 
men  had  a  violent  pain  in  his  knee,  and  I 
asked  the  guides  to  take  a  share  of  his  burden, 
lis  they  had  nothing  to  carry  but  their  beaver 
i»bes,  and  bows  and  arrows,  but  they  could  not 
206 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

be  made  to  understand  a  word   of    my  re- 
quest. 

Saturday,  6. — At  four  this  morning  I  arose 
from  my  bed,  such  as  it  was.  As  we  must 
have  been  in  a  most  unfortunate  predicament, 
if  our  guides  should  have  deserted  us  in  the 
night,  by  way  of  security,  I  proposed  to  the 
youngest  of  them  to  sleep  with  me,  and  h© 
readily  consented.  These  people  have  no 
covering  but  their  beaver  garments,  and  that 
of  my  companions  was  a  nest  of  vermin.  I, 
however,  spread  it  under  us,  and  having  laid 
down  upon  it,  we  covered  ourselves  with  my 
camblet  cloak.  My  companion's  hair  being- 
greased  with  fish-oil,  and  his  body  smeared 
with  red  earth,  my  sense  of  smelling  as  well 
as  that  of  feeling,  threatened  to  interrupt  my 
rest ;  but  these  inconveniences  yielded  to  my 
fatigue,  and  I  passed  a  night  of  soimd  re- 
pose. 

I  took  the  lead  in  our  march,  as  I  had  don© 
yesterday,  in  order  to  clear  the  branches  of 
the  wet  which  continued  to  hang  upon  them. 
We  proceeded  with  all  possible  expedition 
through  a  level  country  with  but  little  under- 
wood ;  the  larger  trees  were  of  the  fir  kind. 
At  half  past  eight  we  fell  upon  the  road, 
which  we  first  intended  to  have  taken  from 
the  Great  Eiver,  and  must  be  shorter  than 
that  which  we  had  travelled.  The  West-road 
river  was  also  in  sight,  winding  through  a 
207 


JOUKNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

valley.  We  had  not  met  with  any  water 
since  our  encampment  of  last  night,  and 
though  we  were  afflicted  with  violent  thirst, 
the  river  was  at  such  a  distance  from  us,  and 
the  descent  to  it  so  long  and  steep,  that  we 
were  compelled  to  be  satisfied  with  casting 
our  longing  looks  towards  it.  There  appeared 
to  be  more  water  in  the  river  here,  than  at 
its  discharge.  The  Indian  account,  that  it  is 
navigable  for  their  canoes,  is,  I  believe,  per- 
fectly correct. 

Our  guides  now  told  us,  that  as  the  road 
was  very  good  and  well  traced,  they  would 
proceed  to  inform  the  next  tribe  that  we  were 
coming.  This  information  was  of  a  very  un- 
pleasant nature ;  as  it  would  have  been  easy 
for  them  to  turn  off  the  road  at  an  hundred 
yards  from  us,  and,  when  we  had  passed 
them,  to  return  home.  I  proposed  that  one 
of  them  should  remain  with  us,  while  two  of 
my  people  should  leave  their  loads  behind 
and  accompany  the  other  to  the  lodges.  But 
they  would  not  stay  to  hear  our  persuasions, 
and  were  soon  out  of  sight. 

I  now  desired  the  Cancre  to  leave  his  bur- 
den, take  a  small  quantity  of  provision,  with 
his  arms  and  blanket,  and  follow  me.  I  also 
told  my  men  to  come  on  as  fast  as  they  could, 
and  that  I  would  wait  for  them  as  soon  as  I 
had  formed  an  acquaintance  with  the  natives 
of  the  country  before  us.  We  accordingly 
208 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

followed  our  guides  with  all  the  expedition 
in  our  power,  but  did  not  overtake  them  till 
we  came  to  a  family  of  natives,  consisting  of 
one  man,  two  women,  and  six  children,  with 
whom  we  found  them.  These  people  be- 
trayed no  signs  of  fear  at  our  appearance, 
and  the  man  willingly  conversed  with  my  in- 
terpreter, to  whom  he  made  himself  more  in- 
telligible, than  our  guides  had  been  able  to 
do.  They,  however,  had  informed  him  of 
the  object  of  our  journey.  He  pointed  out 
to  us  one  of  his  wives,  who  was  a  native  of 
the  sea  coast,  which  was  not  a  very  great 
distance  from  us.  This  woman  was  more  in- 
clined to  corpulency  than  any  we  had  yet 
seen,  was  of  low  stature,  with  an  oblong  face, 
grey  eyes,  and  a  flattish  nose.  She  was 
decorated  with  ornaments  of  various  kinds, 
such  as  large  blue  beads,  either  pendant 
from  her  ears,  encircling  her  neck,  or  braided 
in  her  hair :  she  also  wore  bracelets  of  brass, 
copper,  and  horn.  Her  garments  consisted 
of  a  kind  of  tunic,  which  was  covered  with  a 
robe  of  matted  bark,  fringed  round  the  bottom 
with  skin  of  the  sea  otter.  None  of  the 
women  whom  I  had  seen  since  we  crossed  the 
mountain  wore  this  kmd  of  tunic;  their 
blankets  being  merely  girt  round  the  waist. 
She  had  learned  the  language  of  her  hus- 
band's tribe,  and  confirmed  his  account,  that 
we  were  at  no  great  distance  from  the  sea. 
Vol.  II.— U  209 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

They  were  on  their  way,  she  said,  to  the  great 
river  to  fish.  Age  seemed  to  be  an  object  of 
great  veneration  among  these  people,  for  they 
carried  an  old  woman  by  turns  on  their  backs 
who  was  quite  blind  and  infirm  from  the  very 
advanced  period  of  her  life. 

Our  people  having  joined  us  and  rested 
themselves,  I  requested  our  guides  to  pro- 
ceed, when  the  elder  of  them  told  me  that  he 
should  not  go  any  further,  but  that  these 
people  would  send  a  boy  to  accompany  his 
brother,  and  I  began  to  think  myself  rather 
fortunate,  that  we  were  not  deserted  by  them 
all. 

About  noon  we  parted,  and  in  two  hours 
we  came  up  with  two  men  and  their  families : 
when  we  first  saw  them  they  were  sitting 
■own,  as  if  to  rest  themsel\tes ;  but  no  sooner 
did  they  perceive  us  than  they  rose  up  and 
seized  their  arms. — The  boys  who  were  be- 
hind us  immediately  ran  forwards  and  spoke 
to  them,  when  they  laid  by  their  arms  and 
received  us  as  friends.  They  had  been  eat- 
ing green  berries  and  dried  fish  We  had, 
indeed,  scarcely  joined  them,  when  a  woman 
and  a  boy  came  from  the  river  with  water, 
which  they  very  hospitably  gave  us  to  drink. 
The  people  of  this  party  had  a  very  sickly 
appearance,  which  might  have  been  the  con- 
sequence of  disease,  or  that  indolence  which 
is  so  natural  to  them,  or  of  both.  One  of  the 
210 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

women  had  a  tattooed  line  along  the  chin,  of 
the  same  length  of  her  mouth. 

The  lads  now  informed  me  that  they  would 
go  no  further,  but  that  these  men  would  take 
their  places;  and  they  parted  from  their 
families  with  as  little  apparent  concern,  as  if 
they  were  entire  strangers  to  each  other. 
One  of  them  was  very  well  understood  by  my 
interpreter,  and  had  resided  among  the  natives 
|f  the  sea  coast,  whom  he  had  left  but  a  short 
|.me.  According  to  his  information,  we  were 
approaching  a  river,  which  was  neither  large 
nor  long,  but  whose  banks  were  inhabited; 
and  that  in  the  bay  which  the  sea  forms  at 
the  mouth  of  it,  a  great  wooden  canoe,  with 
white  people,  arrives  about  the  time  when 
the  leaves  begin  to  grow ;  I  presume  in  the 
early  part  of  May. 

After  we  parted  with  the  last  people,  we 
came  to  an  uneven,  hilly,  swampy  country, 
through  which  our  way  was  impeded  by  a 
considerable  number  of  fallen  trees.  At 
five  in  the  afternoon  we  were  overtaken  by  a 
heavy  shower  of  rain  and  hail,  and  being  at 
the  same  time  very  much  fatigue «l,  we  en- 
camped for  the  night  near  a  small  creek. 
Our  course  till  we  came  to  the  river,  was 
about  South-West  ten  miles,  and  then  West, 
twelve  or  fourteen  miles.  I  thought  it  pru- 
dent, by  way  of  security,  to  submit  to  the 
same  inconveniences  I  have  already  described, 
211 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

and  shared  the  beaver  robe   of  one  of  my 
guides  during  the  night. 

Sunday f  7. — I  was  so  busily  employed  in 
collecting  intelligence  from  our  conductors^ 
that  I  last  night  forgot  to  wind  up  my  time- 
piece, and  it  was  the  only  instance  of  such  an 
act  of  negligence  since  I  left  Fort  Chepewyan 
on  the  11th  of  last  October.  At  five  we 
quitted  our  station,  and  proceeded  across  twa 
mountains,  covered  with  spruce,  poplar,  white 
birch,  and  other  trees.  We  then  descended 
into  a  level  country,  where  we  found  a  good 
road,  through  woods  of  cypress.  We  then 
came  to  two  small  lakes,  at  the  distance  of 
about  fourteen  miles.  Course  about  West. 
Through  them  the  river  passes,  and  our  road 
kept  in  a  parallel  line  with  it  on  a  range  of 
elevated  ground.  On  observing  some  people 
before  us,  our  guides  hastened  to  meet  them, 
and,  on  their  approach,  one  of  them  stepped 
forward  with  an  axe  in  his  hand.  This  party 
consisted  only  of  a  man,  two  women,  and  the 
same  number  of  children.  The  eldest  of  the 
women,  who  probably  was  the  man's  mother, 
was  engaged,  when  we  joined  them,  in  clear- 
ing a  circular  spot,  of  about  five  feet  in  di- 
ameter, of  the  weeds  that  infested  it ;  nor  did 
our  arrival  interrupt  her  employment,  which 
was  sacred  to  the  memory  of  the  dead.  The 
spot  to  which  her  pious  care  was  devoted, 
contained  the  grave  of  an  husband,  and  a  son, 
212 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

and  whenever  she  passed  this  way,  she  always 
stopped  to  pay  this  tribute  of  affection. 

As  soon  as  we  had  taken  our  morning  al- 
lowance, we  set  forwards,  and  about  three 
we  perceived  more  people  before  us.  After 
some  alarm  we  came  up  with  them.  They 
consisted  of  seven  men,  as  many  women,  and 
several  children.  Here  I  was  under  the 
necessity  of  procuring  another  guide,  and  we 
continued  our  route  on  the  same  side  of  the 
river,  till  six  in  the  evening,  when  we  crossed 
it.  It  was  knee  deep,  and  about  an  hundred 
yards  over.  I  wished  now  to  stop  for  the 
night,  as  we  were  all  of  us  very  much  fatigued, 
but  our  guide  recommended  us  to  proceed  on- 
wards to  a  family  of  his  friends,  at  a  small 
distance  from  thence,  where  we  arrived  at 
half  past  seven.  He  had  gone  forward,  and 
procured  us  a  welcome  and  quiet  reception. 
There  being  a  net  hanging  to  dry,  I  requested 
the  man  to  prepare  and  set  it  in  the  water, 
which  he  did  with  great  expedition,  and  then 
presented  me  with  a  few  small  dried  fish. 
Our  course  was  South- West  about  twelve 
miles,  part  of  which  was  an  extensive  swamp, 
that  was  seldom  less  than  knee  deep.  In  the 
course  of  the  afternoon  we  had  several  show- 
ers of  rain.  I  had  attempted  to  take  an  alti- 
tude, but  it  was  past  meridian.  The  water 
of  the  river  before  the  lodge  was  quite  still, 
and  expanded  itself  into  the  form  of  a  small 
213 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

lake.     In  many  other  places,  indeed,  it  had 
assumed  the  same  form. 

Monday,  8. — It  rained  throughout  the 
night,  and  it  was  seven  in  the  morning  before 
3ie  weather  would  allow  us  to  proceed.  The 
',uide  brought  me  five  small  boiled  fish,  in  a 
/)latter  made  of  bark ;  some  of  them  were  of 
the  carp  kind,  and  the  rest  of  a  species  for 
which  I  am  not  qualified  to  furnish  a  name. 
Having  dried  our  clothes,  we  set  off  on  our 
march  about  eight,  and  our  guide  very  cheer- 
fully continued  to  accompany  us  j  but  he  was 
not  altogether  so  intelligible  as  his  predeces- 
sors in  our  service.  We  learned  from  him, 
however,  that  this  lake,  through  which  the 
river  passes,  extends  to  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  that  he  expected  to  meet  nine  men, 
of  a  tribe  which  inhabits  the  North  side  of 
the  river. 

In  this  part  of  our  journey  we  were  sur- 
prised with  the  appearance  of  several  regular 
basons,  some  of  them  furnished  with  water, 
and  the  others  empty ;  their  slope  from  the 
edge  to  the  bottom  formed  an  angle  of  about 
forty-five  degrees,  and  their  perpendicular 
depth  was  about  twelve  feet.  Those  that 
contained  water,  discovered  gravel  near  their 
edges,  while  the  empty  ones  were  covered 
with  grass  and  herbs,  among  which  we  dis- 
covered mustard,  and  mint.  There  were  also 
several  places  from  whence  the  water  appears 
214 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

to  have  retired,  which  are  covered  with  the 
same  soil  and  herbage. 

We  now  proceeded  along  a  very  uneven 
country,  the  upper  parts  of  which  were  cov- 
ered with  poplars,  a  little  under-wood,  and 
plenty  of  grass :  the  intervening  vallies  were 
watered  with  rivulets.  From  these  circum- 
stances, and  the  general  appearance  of  vege- 
tation, I  could  not  account  for  the  apparent 
absence  of  animals  of  every  kind. 

Tuesday,  9. — At  two  in  the  afternoon  we 
arrived  at  the  largest  river  that  we  had  seen, 
since  we  left  our  canoe,  and  which  forced  its 
way  between  and  over  the  huge  stones  that 
opposed  its  current.  Our  course  was  about 
South-South- West  sixteen  miles  along  the 
river,  which  might  here  justify  the  title  of  a 
lake.  The  road  was  good,  and  our  next 
•course,  which  was  West  by  South,  brought 
us  onward  ten  miles,  where  we  encamped, 
fatigued  and  wet,  it  having  rained  three  parts 
of  the  day.  This  river  abounds  with  fish, 
and  must  fall  into  the  great  river,  further 
down  than  we  had  extended  our  voyage. 

A  heavy  and  continued  rain  fell  through 
great  part  of  the  night,  and  as  we  were  in  some 
measure  exposed  to  it,  time  was  required  to 
dry  our  clothes ;  so  that  it  was  half  past  seven 
in  the  morning  before  we  were  ready  to  set 
out.  As  we  found  the  country  so  destitute 
of  game,  and  foreseeing  the  difficulty  of  pro- 
215 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

curing  provisions  for  our  return,  I  thought  it 
prudent  to  conceal  half  a  bag  of  pemmican : 
having  sent  off  the  Indians,  and  all  my  peo- 
ple except  two,  we  buried  it  under  the  fire- 
place, as  we  had  done  on  a  former  occasion. 
We  soon  overtook  our  party,  and  continued 
our  route  along  the  river  or  lake.  About 
twelve  I  had  an  altitude,  but  it  was  inaccu- 
rate from  the  cloudiness  of  the  weather.  We 
continued  our  progress  till  five  in  the  after- 
noon, when  the  water  began  to  narrow,  and 
in  about  half  an  hour  we  came  to  a  ferry, 
where  we  found  a  small  raft.  At  this  time 
it  began  to  thunder,  and  torrents  of  rain  soon 
followed,  which  terminated  our  journey  for 
the  day.  Our  course  was  about  South,  twenty- 
one  miles  from  the  lake  already  mentioned. 
We  now  discovered  the  tops  of  mountains, 
covered  with  snow,  over  very  high  interme- 
diate land.  We  killed  a  whitehead  and  a 
grey  eagle,  and  three  grey  partridges;  we 
also  saw  two  otters  in  the  river,  and  several 
beaver  lodges  along  it.  When  the  rain  ceased, 
we  caught  a  few  small  fish,  and  repaired  the 
raft  for  the  service  of  the  ensuing  day. 

Wednesday,  10. — At  an  early  hour  of  this 
morning  we  prepared  to  cross  the  water. 
The  traverse  is  about  thirty  yards,  and  it  re- 
quired five  trips  to  get  us  all  over.  At  a 
short  distance  below,  a  small  river  falls  in, 
that  comes  from  the  direction  in  which  we 
216 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

were  proceeding.  It  is  a  rapid  for  about  three 
hundred  yards,  when  it  expands  into  a  lake, 
along  which  our  road  conducted  us,  and  be- 
neath a  range  of  beautiful  hills,  covered  with 
verdure.  At  half  past  eight  we  came  to  the 
termination  of  the  lake,  where  there  were  two 
houses  that  occupied  a  most  delightful  sit- 
uation, and  as  they  contained  their  neces- 
sary furniture,  it  seemed  probable  that  their 
owners  intended  shortly  to  return.  Near 
them  were  several  graves  or  tombs,  to  which 
the  natives  are  particularly  attentive,  and 
never  suffer  any  herbage  to  grow  upon  them. 
In  about  half  an  hour  we  reached  a  place 
where  there  were  two  temporary  huts,  that 
contained  thirteen  men,  with  whom  we  found 
our  guide  who  had  preceded  us,  in  order  to 
secure  a  good  reception.  The  buildings  were 
detached  from  each  other,  and  conveniently- 
placed  for  fishing  in  the  lake.  Their  inhabi- 
tants called  themselves  Sloua-cuss-Dinais, 
which  denomination,  as  far  as  my  interpreter 
could  explain  it  to  me,  I  understood  to  mean 
Red-fish  Men.  They  were  much  more  cleanly ^ 
healthy,  and  agreeable  in  their  appearance, 
than  any  of  the  natives  whom  we  had  passed ; 
nevertheless,  I  have  no  doubt  that  they  are 
the  same  people,  from  their  name  alone, 
which  is  of  the  Chepewyan  language.  My 
interpreters,  however,  understood  very  little 
of  what  they  said,  so  that  I  did  not  expect 
217 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

much  information  from  them.  Some  of  them 
said  it  was  a  journey  of  four  days  to  the  sea, 
and  others  were  of  opinion  that  it  was  six ; 
and  there  were  among  them  who  extended  it 
to  eight;  but  they  all  uniformly  declared 
that  they  had  been  to  the  coast.  They  did 
not  entertain  the  smallest  apprehension  of 
danger  from  us,  and,  when  we  discharged  our 
pieces,  expressed  no  sensation  but  that  of 
astonishment,  which,  as  may  be  supposed,  was 
proportionably  increased  when  one  of  the 
hunters  shot  an  eagle,  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance. At  twelve  I  obtained  an  altitude, 
which  made  our  latitude  53.  4.  32.  North, 
being  not  so  far  South  as  I  expected. 

I  now  went,  accompanied  by  one  of  my 
men,  an  interpreter,  and  the  guide,  to  visit 
some  huts  at  the  distance  of  a  mile.  On  our 
arrival,  the  inhabitants  presented  us  with  a 
dish  of  boiled  trout,  of  a  small  kind.  The 
fish  would  have  been  excellent  if  it  had  not 
tasted  of  the  kettle,  which  was  made  of  the 
bark  of  the  white  spruce,  and  of  the  dried 
grass  with  which  it  was  boiled.  Besides  this 
kind  of  trout,  red  and  white  carp  and  jub, 
are  the  only  fish  I  saw  as  the  produce  of  these 
waters. 

These  people  appeared  to  live  in  a  state  of 

comparative    comfort;    they  take   a   greater 

share  in  the  labour  of  the  women,  than  is 

common  among  the  savage  tribes,  and  are,  as 

218 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

I  was  informed,  content  with  one  wife. 
Though  this  circumstance  may  proceed  rather 
from  the  difficulty  of  procuring  subsistence, 
than  any  habitual  aversion  to  polygamy. 

My  present  guide  now  informed  me,  that 
he  could  not  proceed  any  further,  and  I  ac- 
cordingly engaged  two  of  these  people  to  suc- 
ceed him  in  that  office ;  but  when  they  desired 
us  to  proceed  on  the  beaten  path  without 
them,  as  they  could  not  set  off  till  the  follow- 
ing day,  I  determined  to  stay  that  night,  in 
order  to  accommodate  myself  to  their  conve- 
nience. I  distributed  some  trifles  among  the 
wives  and  children  of  the  men  who  were  to 
be  our  future  guides,  and  returned  to  my  peo- 
ple. We  came  back  by  a  different  way,  and 
passed  by  two  buildings,  erected  between 
four  trees,  and  about  fifteen  feet  from  the 
gi'ound,  which  appeared  to  me  to  be  intended 
as  magazines  for  winter  provisions.  At  four 
in  the  afternoon,  we  proceeded  with  consider- 
able expedition,  by  the  side  of  the  lake,  till 
six,  when  we  came  to  the  end  of  it :  we  then 
struck  off  through  a  much  less  beaten  track, 
and  at  half  past  seven  stopped  for  the  night. 
Our  course  was  about  West-South-West  thir- 
teen miles,  and  West  six  miles. 

Thursday y  11. — I  passed  a  most  uncom- 
fortable night :  the  first  part  of  it  I  was  tor- 
mented with  flies,  and  in  the  latter  deluged 
with  rain.  In  the  morning  the  weather 
219 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

cleared,  and  as  soon  as  our  clothes  were  dried, 
we  proceeded  through  a  morass.  This  part 
of  the  country  had  been  laid  waste  by  fire, 
and  the  fallen  trees  added  to  the  pain  and 
perplexity  of  our  way.  A  high,  rocky  ridge 
stretched  along  our  left.  Though  the  rain 
returned,  we  continued  our  progress  till  noon, 
when  our  guide  took  to  some  trees  for  shelter. 
We  then  spread  our  oil-cloth,  and,  with  some 
difficulty,  made  a  fire.  About  two  the  rain 
ceased,  when  we  continued  our  journey 
through  the  same  kind  of  country  which  we 
had  hitherto  passed.  At  half  past  three  we 
came  in  sight  of  a  lake ;  the  land  at  the  same 
time  gradually  rising  to  a  range  of  mountains 
whose  tops  were  covered  with  snow.  We 
soon  after  observed  two  fresh  tracks,  which 
seemed  to  surprise  our  guides,  but  they  sup- 
posed them  to  have  been  made  by  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  country,  who  were  come  into  this 
part  of  it  to  fish.  At  five  in  the  afternoon 
we  were  so  wet  and  cold  (for  it  had  at  inter- 
vals continued  to  rain)  that  we  were  compelled 
to  stop  for  the  night.  We  passed  seven  rivu- 
lets and  a  creek  in  this  day's  journey.  As  I 
had  hitherto  regulated  our  course  by  the  sun, 
I  could  not  form  an  accurate  judgment  of 
this  route,  as  we  had  not  been  favoured  with 
a  sight  of  it  during  the  day ;  but  I  imagine 
it  to  have  been  nearly  in  the  same  direc- 
tion as  that  of  yesterday.  Our  distance 
220 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

could  not  have  been  less  than  fifteen 
miles. 

Our  conductors  now  began  to  complain  of 
our  mode  of  travelling,  and  mentioned  their 
intention  of  leaving  us ;  and  my  interpreters, 
who  were  equally  dissatisfied,  added  to  our 
perplexity  by  their  conduct.  Besides  these 
circumstances,  and  the  apprehension  that  the 
distance  from  the  sea  might  be  greater  than 
I  had  imagined,  it  became  a  matter  of  real 
necessity  that  we  should  begin  to  diminish 
the  consumption  of  our  provisions,  and  ta 
subsist  upon  two-thirds  of  our  allowance ;  a 
proposition  which  was  as  unwelcome  to  my 
people,  as  it  was  necessary  to  put  into  imme- 
diate practice. 

Friday,  12. — At  half  past  five  this  morn- 
ing we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  with  cloudy 
weather,  and  when  we  came  to  the  end  of  the 
lake,  several  tracks  were  visible  that  led  to 
the  side  of  the  water;  from  which  circum- 
stance I  concluded,  that  some  of  the  natives 
were  fishing  along  the  banks  of  it.  This  lake 
is  not  more  than  three  miles  long,  and  about 
one  broad.  We  then  passed  four  smaller 
lakes,  the  two  first  being  on  our  right,  and 
those  which  preceded,  on  our  left.  A  small 
river  also  flowed  across  our  way  from  the 
right,  and  we  passed  it  over  a  beaver-dam. 
A  larger  lake  now  appeared  on  our  right,  and 
the  mountains  on  each  side  of  us  were  covered 
221 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

"witli  snow.  We  afterwards  came  to  another 
lake  on  our  right,  and  soon  reached  a  river, 
which  our  guides  informed  us  was  the  same 
that  we  had  passed  on  a  raft.  They  said  it 
was  navigable  for  canoes  from  the  great 
river,  except  two  rapids,  one  of  which  we 
had  seen.  At  this  place  it  was  upwards  of 
twenty  yards  across,  and  deep  water.  One  of 
the  guides  swam  over  to  fetch  a  raft  which 
was  on  the  opposite  side;  and  having  en- 
creased  its  dimensions,  we  crossed  at  two 
trips,  except  four  of  the  men,  who  preferred 
swimming. 

Here  our  conductors  renewed  their  menace 
of  leaving  us,  and  I  was  obliged  to  give  them 
several  articles,  and  promise  more,  in  order 
to  induce  them  to  continue  till  we  could  pro- 
cure other  natives  to  succeed  them.  At  four 
in  the  afternoon  we  forded  the  same  river, 
and  being  with  the  guides  at  some  distance 
before  the  rest  of  the  people,  I  sat  down  to 
wait  for  them,  and  no  sooner  did  they  arrive, 
than  the  former  set  off  with  so  much  speed, 
that  my  attempt  to  follow  them  proved  un- 
successful. One  of  my  Indians,  however, 
who  had  no  load,  overtook  them,  when  they 
excused  themselves  to  him  by  declaring  that 
their  sole  motive  for  leaving  us,  was  to  pre- 
vent the  people,  whom  they  expected  to  find, 
from  shooting  their  arrows  at  us.  At  seven 
o'clock,  however,  we  were  so  fatigued,  that 
222 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  A^IERICA. 

we  encamped  without  them ;  the  mountains 
covered  with  snow  now  appeared  to  be  di- 
rectly before  us.  As  we  were  collecting  wood 
for  our  fire,  we  discovered  a  cross  road,  where 
it  appeared  that  people  had  passed  within 
seven  or  eight  days.  In  short,  our  situation 
was  such  as  to  afford  a  just  cause  of  alarm, 
and  that  of  the  people  with  me  was  of  a  na- 
ture to  defy  immediate  alleviation.  It  was 
necessary,  however,  for  me  to  attempt  it ;  and 
I  rested  my  principles  of  encouragement  on  a 
representation  of  our  past  perplexities  and 
unexpected  relief,  and  endeavoured  to  excite 
in  them  the  hope  of  similar  good  fortune.  I 
stated  to  them,  that  we  could  not  be  at  a 
great  distance  from  the  sea,  and  that  there 
were  but  few  natives  to  pass,  till  we  should 
arrive  among  those,  who  being  accustomed  to 
visit  the  sea  coast,  and,  having  seen  white 
people,  would  be  disposed  to  treat  us  with 
kindness.  Such  was  the  general  tenor  of  the 
reasoning  I  employed  on  the  occasion,  and  I 
was  happy  to  fiind  that  it  was  not  offered  in 
vain. 

The  weather  had  been  cloudy  till  three  in 
the  afternoon,  when  the  sun  appeared;  but? 
surrounded,  as  we  were,  with  snow-clad 
mountains,  the  air  became  so  cold,  that  the 
violence  of  our  exercise,  was  not  sufficient  to 
produce  a  comfortable  degree  of  warmth. 
Our  course  to-day  was  from  West  to  Sout*^ 
223 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

and  at  least  thirty-six  miles.  The  land  in 
general  was  very  barren  and  stony,  and  lay 
in  ridges,  with  cjrpress  trees  scattered  over 
them.  We  passed  several  swamps,  where 
we  saw  nothing  to  console  us  but  a  few  tracks 
of  deer. 

Saturday,  13.  The  weather  this  morning 
was  clear  but  cold,  and  our  scanty  covering 
was  not  sufficient  to  protect  us  from  the  se- 
verity of  the  night.  About  five,  after  we 
had  warmed  ourselves  at  a  large  fire,  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  dubious  journey.  In  about  an 
hour  we  came  to  the  edge  of  a  wood,  when 
we  perceived  a  house,  situated  on  a  green 
spot,  and  by  the  side  of  a  small  river.  The 
smoke  that  issued  from  it  informed  us  that  it 
was  inhabited.  I  immediately  pushed  for- 
ward towards  this  mansion,  while  my  people 
were  in  such  a  state  of  alarm,  that  they  fol- 
lowed me  with  the  greatest  reluctance.  On 
looking  back,  I  perceived  that  we  were  in  an 
Indian  defile,  of  fifty  yards  in  length.  I, 
however,  was  close  upon  the  house  before  the 
inhabitants  perceived  us,  when  the  women 
and  children  uttered  the  most  horrid  shrieks, 
and  the  only  man  who  appeared  to  be  with 
them,  escaped  out  of  a  back  door,  which  I 
reached  in  time  to  prevent  the  women  and 
children  from  following  him.  The  man  fled 
with  all  his  speed  into  the  wood,  and  I  called 
in  vain  on  my  interpreters  to  speak  to  him, 
224 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

but  they  were  so  agitated  with  fear  as  to  have 
lost  the  power  of  utterance.  It  is  impossible 
to  describe  the  distress  and  alarm  of  these 
poor  people,  who  believing  that  they  were  at- 
tacked by  enemies,  expected  an  immediate 
massacre,  which,  among  themselves,  never 
fails  to  follow  such  an  event. 

Our  prisoners  consisted  of  three  women, 
and  seven  children,  which  apparently  com- 
posed three  families.  At  length,  however, 
by  our  demeanor,  and  our  presents,  we  con- 
trived to  dissipate  their  apprehensions.  One 
of  the  women  then  informed  us,  that  their 
people,  with  several  others  had  left  that 
place  three  nights  before,  on  a  trading  jour- 
ney to  a  tribe  whom  she  called  Annah,  which 
is  the  name  the  Chepewyans  give  to  the 
Knisteneaux,  at  the  distance  of  three  days. 
She  added  also,  that  from  the  mountains  be- 
fore us,  which  were  covered  with  snow,  the 
sea  was  visible ;  and  accompanied  her  infor- 
mation with  a  present  of  a  couple  of  dried 
fish.  We  now  expressed  our  desire  that  the 
man  might  be  induced  to  return,  and  conduct 
us  in  the  road  to  the  sea.  Indeed,  it  was  not 
long  before  he  discovered  himself  in  the 
wood,  when  he  was  assured,  both  by  the 
women  and  our  interpreters,  that  we  had  no 
hostile  design  against  him ;  but  these  assur- 
ances had  no  effect  in  quieting  his  apprehen- 
sions. I  then  attempted  to  go  to  him  alone, 
Vol.  II.— 15  225 


JOUENAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

and  showed  him  a  knife,  beads,  &c.,  to  induce 
him  to  come  to  me,  but  he,  in  return,  made  a 
hostile  display  of  his  bow  and  arrows :  and, 
having  for  some  time  exhibited  a  variety  of 
strange  antics,  again  disappeared.  However, 
he  soon  presented  himself  in  another  quarter, 
and  after  a  succession  of  parleys  between  us, 
he  engaged  to  come  and  accompany  us. 

While  these  negociations  were  proceeding, 
I  proposed  to  visit  the  fishing  machines,  to 
which  the  women  readily  consented,  and  I 
found  in  them  twenty  small  fish,  such  as 
trout,  carp,  and  jub,  for  which  I  gave  her  a 
large  knife;  a  present  that  appeared  to  be 
equally  unexpected  ajid  gratifying  to  her. 
Another  man  now  came  towards  us,  from  a 
hill,  talking  aloud  from  the  time  he  appeared, 
till  he  reached  us.  The  purport  of  his  speech 
was,  that  he  threw  himself  upon  our  merqj 
and  we  might  kill  him,  if  it  was  our  pleasure 
but  that  from  what  he  had  heard,  he  looked 
rather  for  our  friendship  than  our  enmity. 
He  was  an  ederly  person,  of  a  decent  appear- 
ance, and  I  gave  him  some  articles  to  concili- 
ate him  to  us.  The  first  man  now  followed 
with  a  lad  along  with  him,  both  of  whom 
were  the  sons  of  the  old  man,  and,  on  his 
arrival,  he  gave  me  several  half  dried  fish, 
which  I  considered  as  a  peace-offering.  After 
some  conversation  with  these  people,  respect- 
ing the  country,  and  our  future  progress 
226 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

through  it,  we  retired  to  rest,  with  sensations 
very  different  from  those  with  which  we  had 
risen  in  the  morning.  The  weather  had  been 
generally  cloudy  throughout  the  day,  and 
when  the  sun  was  obscured,  extremely  cold 
for  the  season.  At  noon  I  obtained  a  merid- 
ian altitude,  which  gave  52.  58.  53.  North 
latitude.  I  likewise  took  time  in  the  after- 
noon. 

Sunday,  I4. — This  morning  we  had  a  bright 
sun,  with  an  East  wind.  These  people  ex- 
amined their  fishing  machines,  when  they 
found  in  them  a  great  number  of  small  fish, 
and  we  dressed  as  many  of  them  as  we  could 
eat.  Thus  was  our  departure  retarded  until 
seven,  when  we  proceeded  on  our  journey, 
accompanied  by  the  man  and  his  two  sons. 
As  I  did  not  want  the  younger,  and  should 
be  obliged  to  feed  him,  I  requested  of  his 
father  to  leave  him,  for  the  purpose  of  fishing 
for  the  women.  He  replied,  that  they  were 
accustomed  to  fish  for  themselves,  and  that  I 
need  not  be  apprehensive  of  their  encroaching 
upon  my  provisions,  as  they  were  used  to 
sustain  themselves  in  their  journies  on  herbs, 
and  the  inner  tegument  of  the  bark  of  trees, 
for  the  stripping  of  which  he  had  a  thin  piece 
of  bone,  then  hanging  by  his  side.  The  lat- 
ter is  of  glutinous  quality,  of  a  clammy,  sweet 
taste,  and  is  generally  considered  by  the  more 
interior  Indians  as  a  delicacy,  rather  than  an 
227 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

article  of  common  food.  Our  guide  informed 
me  that  there  is  a  short  cut  across  the  moun- 
tains, but  as  there  was  no  trace  of  a  road, 
and  it  would  shorten  our  journey  but  one  day, 
he  should  prefer  the  beaten  way. 

We  accordingly  proceeded  along  a  lake, 
West  five  miles.  We  then  crossed  a  small 
river,  and  passed  through  a  swamp,  about 
South- West,  when  we  began  gradually  to  as- 
cend for  some  time  till  we  gained  the  summit 
of  a  hill,  where  we  had  an  extensive  view  to 
the  South-East,  from  which  direction  a  con- 
siderable river  appeared  to  flow,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  about  three  miles :  it  was  represented 
to  me  as  being  navigable  for  canoes.  The 
descent  of  this  hill  was  more  steep  than  its 
ascent,  and  was  succeeded  by  another,  whose 
top,  though  not  so  elevated  as  the  last,  afford- 
ed a  view  of  the  range  of  mountains,  covered 
with  snow,  which,  according  to  the  intelli- 
gence of  our  guide,  terminates  in  the  ocean. 
We  now  left  a  small  lake  on  our  left,  then 
crossed  a  creek  running  out  of  it,  and  at  one 
in  the  afternoon  came  to  a  house,  of  the  same 
construction  and  dimensions  as  have  already 
been  mentioned,  but  the  materials  were  much 
better  prepared  and  finished.  The  timber 
was  squared  on  two  sides,  and  the  bark  taken 
off  the  two  others ;  the  ridge  pole  was  also 
shaped  in  the  same  manner,  extending  about 
eight  or  ten  feet  beyond  the  gable  end,  and 
228 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

supporting  a  shed  over  the  door :  the  end  of 
it  was  carved  into  the  similitude  of  a  snake's 
head.  Several  hieroglyphics  and  figures  of  a 
similar  workmanship,  and  painted  with  red 
earth,  decorated  the  interior  of  the  building. 
The  inhabitants  had  left  the  house  but  a 
short  time,  and  there  were  several  bags  or 
bundles  in  it,  which  I  did  not  suffer  to  be  dis- 
turbed. Near  it  were  two  tombs,  surrounded 
in  a  neat  manner  with  boards,  and  covered 
with  bark.  Beside  them  several  poles  had 
been  erected,  one  of  which  was  squared,  and 
all  of  them  painted.  From  each  of  them 
were  suspended  several  rolls  or  parcels  of 
bark,  and  our  guide  gave  the  following  ac- 
count of  them;  which,  as  far  as  we  could 
judge,  from  our  imperfect  knowledge  of  the 
language,  and  the  incidental  errors  of  inter- 
pretation, appeared  to  involve  two  different 
modes  of  treating  their  dead ;  or  it  might  be 
one  and  the  same  ceremony,  which  we  did 
not  distinctly  comprehend:  at  all  events,  it 
is  the  practice  of  these  people  to  burn  the 
bodies  of  their  dead,  except  the  larger  bones, 
which  are  rolled  up  in  bark  and  suspended 
from  poles,  as  I  have  already  described.  Ac- 
cording to  the  other  account,  it  appeared  that 
they  actually  bury  their  dead;  and  when 
another  of  the  family  dies,  the  remains  of  the 
person  who  was  last  interred  are  taken  from 
the  grave  and  burned,  has  been  already  men- 
229 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

tioned ;  so  that  the  members  of  a  family  are 
thus  successively  buried  and  burned,  to  make 
room  for  each  other;  and  one  tomb  proves 
sufficient  for  a  family  through  succeeding 
generations.  There  is  no  house  in  this  coun- 
try without  a  tomb  in  its  vicinity.  Our  last 
course  extended  about  ten  miles. 

We  continued  our  journey  along  the  lake 
before  the  house,  and,  crossing  a  river  that 
flowed  out  of  it,  came  to  a  kind  of  bank,  or 
weir,  formed  by  the  natives,  for  the  purpose 
of  placing  their  fishing  machines,  many  of 
which  of  different  sizes,  were  lying  on  the 
side  of  the  river.  Our  guide  placed  one  of 
them,  with  the  certain  expectation  that  on 
his  return  he  should  find  plenty  of  fish  in  it. 
We  proceeded  nine  miles  further,  on  a  good 
road,  West- South- West,  when  we  came  to  a 
small  lake :  we  then  crossed  a  river  that  ran 
out  of  it,  and  our  guides  were  in  continual 
expectation  of  meeting  with  some  of  the  na- 
tives. To  this  place  our  course  was  a  mile 
and  a  half,  in  the  same  direction  as  the  last. 
At  nine  at  night  we  crossed  a  river  on  rafts, 
our  last  distance  being  about  four  miles 
South-East,  on  a  winding  road,  through  a 
swampy  country,  and  along  a  succession  of 
small  lakes.  We  were  now  quite  exhausted, 
and  it  was  absolutely  necessary  for  us  to  stop 
for  the  night.  The  weather  being  clear 
throughout  the  day,  we  had  no  reason  to  com- 
230 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

plain  of  the  cold.  Our  guides  encouraged  us 
with  the  hope  that,  in  two  days  of  similar  ex- 
ertion, we  should  arrive  among  people  of  the 
other  nation. 

Monday,  15. — At  five  this  morning  we 
were  again  in  motion,  and  passing  along  a 
river,  we  at  length  forded  it.  This  stream 
was  not  more  than  knee  deep,  about  thii-ty 
yards  over,  and  with  a  stony  bottom.  The 
old  man  went  onward  by  himself,  in  the  hope 
of  falling  in  with  the  people,  whom  he  ex- 
pected to  meet  in  the  course  of  the  day.  At 
eleven  we  came  up  with  him,  and  the  natives 
whom  he  expected,  consisting  of  five  men, 
and  part  of  their  families.  They  received  us 
with  great  kindness,  and  examined  us  with 
the  most  minute  attention.  They  must,  how- 
ever, have  been  told  that  we  were  white,  as 
our  faces  no  longer  indicated  that  distinguish- 
ing complexion.  They  called  themselves 
Neguia  Dinais,  and  were  come  in  a  different 
direction  from  us,  but  were  now  going  the 
same  way,  to  the  Anah-yoe  Tesse  or  Eiver, 
and  appeared  to  be  very  much  satisfied  with 
our  having  joined  them.  They  presented  ua 
with  some  fish  which  they  had  just  taken  in 
the  adjoining  lake. 

Here  I  expected  that  our  guides,  like  their 

predecessors,  would  have  quitted  us,  but,  on 

the  contrary,  they  expressed  themselves  to 

be  so  happy,  in  our  company,  and  that  of 

231 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

their  friends,  that  they  voluntarily,  and  with 
great  cheerfulness  proceeded  to  pass  another 
night  with  us.  Our  new  acquaintance  were 
people  of  a  very  pleasing  aspect.  The  hair 
of  the  women  was  tied  in  large  loose  knots 
over  the  ears,  and  plaited  with  great  neatness 
from  the  division  of  the  head,  so  as  to  be  in- 
cluded in  the  knots.  Some  of  them  had 
adorned  their  tresses  with  beads,  with  a  very 
pretty  effect.  The  men  were  clothed  in 
leather,  their  hair  was  nicely  combed,  and 
their  complexion  was  fairer,  or  perhaps  it 
may  be  said,  with  more  propriety,  that  they 
were  more  cleanly,  than  any  of  the  natives 
whom  we  had  yet  seen.  Their  eyes,  though 
keen  and  sharp,  are  not  of  that  dark  colour, 
so  generally  observable  in  the  various  tribes  of 
Indians;  they  were,  on  the  contrary,  of  a 
grey  hue,  with  a  tinge  of  red.  There  was 
one  man  amongst  them  of  at  least  six  feet 
four  inches  in  height ;  his  manners  were  affa- 
ble, and  he  had  a  more  prepossessing  appear- 
ance than  any  Indian  I  had  met  with  in  my 
journey;  he  was  about  twenty-eight  years  of 
age,  and  was  treated  with  particular  respect 
by  his  party.  Every  man,  woman,  and  child 
carried  a  proportionate  burden,  consisting  of 
beaver  coating,  and  parchment,  as  well  as 
skins  of  the  otter,  the  marten,  the  bear,  the 
lynx,  and  dressed  moose-skins.  The  last 
they  procure  from  the  Rocky- Mountain  Indi- 
232 


'  NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

ans.  According  to  their  account,  the  people 
of  the  sea  coast  prefer  them  to  any  other  arti- 
cle. Several  of  their  relations  and  friends, 
they  said,  were  already  gone,  as  well  provided 
as  themselves,  to  barter  with  the  people  of 
the  coast ;  who  barter  them  in  their  turn,  ex- 
cept the  dressed  leather,  with  white  people, 
who,  as  they  had  been  informed,  arrive  there 
in  large  canoes. 

Such  an  escort  was  the  most  fortunate  cir- 
cumstance that  could  happen  in  our  favour. 
They  told  us,  that  as  the  women  and  children 
could  not  travel  fast,  we  should  be  three  days 
in  getting  to  the  end  of  our  journey;  which 
must  be  supposed  to  have  been  very  agreeable 
information  to  people  in  our  exhausted  condi- 
tion. 

In  about  half  an  hour  after  we  had  joined 
our  new  acquaintance,  the  signal  for  moving^ 
onwards  was  given  by  the  leader  of  the  party, 
who  vociferated,  the  words  Huy,  Huy,  when 
his  people  joined  him  and  continued  a  clamor- 
ous conversation.  We  passed  along  a  wind- 
ing road,  over  hills,  and  through  swampy 
vallies,  from  South  to  West.  We  then  crossed 
a  deep,  narrow  river,  which  discharges  itself 
into  a  lake,  on  whose  side  we  stopped  at  five 
in  the  afternoon,  for  the  night,  though  we 
had  reposed  several  times  since  twelve  at 
noon ;  so  that  our  mode  of  travelling  had  un- 
dergone a  very  agreeable  change.  I  compute 
233 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

the  distance  of  this  day^s  journey  at  about 
twenty  miles.  In  the  middle  of  the  day  the 
weather  was  clear  and  sultry. 

We  all  sat  down  on  a  very  pleasant  green 
spot,  and  were  no  sooner  seated,  than  our 
guide  and  one  of  the  party  prepared  to  en- 
gage in  play.  They  had  each  a  bundle  of 
about  fifty  small  sticks,  neatly  polished,  of 
the  size  of  a  quill,  and  five  inches  long:  a 
certain  number  of  these  sticks  had  red  lines 
round  them;  and  as  many  of  these  as  one 
of  the  players  might  find  convenient  were 
curiously  rolled  up  in  dry  grass,  and  ac- 
cording to  the  judgment  of  his  antagonist 
respecting  their  number  and  marks,  he  lost 
or  won.  Our  friend  was  apparently  the 
loser,  as  he  parted  with  his  bow  and  arrows, 
and  several  articles  which  I  had  given 
him. 

Ttcesday^  16, — The  weather  of  this  morn- 
ing was  the  same  as  yesterday ;  but  our  fel- 
low-travellers were  in  no  hurry  to  proceed, 
and  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  pressing 
them  into  greater  expedition,  by  representing 
the  almost  exhausted  state  of  our  provisions. 
They,  however,  assured  us,  that  after  the 
next  night's  sleep  we  should  arrive  at  the 
river  where  they  were  going,  and  that  we 
should  there  get  fish  in  great  abundance.  My 
young  men,  from  an  act  of  imprudence,  de- 
prived themselves  last  night  of  that  rest 
234 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

which  was  so  necessary  to  them.  One  of  the 
strangers  askmg  them  several  questions  re- 
specting us,  and  concerning  their  own  coun- 
try, one  of  them  gave  such  answers  as  were 
not  credited  by  the  audience ;  whereupon  he 
demanded,  in  a  very  angry  tone,  if  they 
thought  he  was  disposed  to  tell  lies,  like  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Indians;  and  one  of  that 
tribe  happening  to  be  of  the  party,  a  quarrel 
ensued,  which  might  have  been  attended  with 
the  most  serious  consequences,  if  it  had  not 
been  fortunately  prevented  by  the  interfer- 
ence of  those  who  were  not  interested  in  the 
dispute. 

Though  our  stock  of  provisions  was  getting 
so  low,  I  determined,  nevertheless,  to  hide 
about  twenty  pounds  of  pemmican,  by  way 
of  providing  against  our  return.  I  therefore 
left  two  of  the  men  behind,  with  directions 
to  bury  it,  as  usual,  under  the  place  where 
we  had  made  our  fire. 

Our  course  was  about  West-South- West  by 
the  side  of  the  lake,  and  in  about  two  miles 
we  came  to  the  end  of  it.  Here  was  a  gen- 
eral halt,  when  my  men  overtook  us.  I  was 
now  informed,  that  some  people  of  another 
tribe  were  sent  for,  who  wished  very  much 
to  see  us,  two  of  whom  would  accompany  us 
over  the  mountains ;  that,  as  for  themselves, 
they  had  changed  their  mind,  and  intended 
to  follow  a  small  river  which  issued  out  of 
235 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

the  lake,  and  went  in  a  direction  very  differ- 
ent from  the  line  of  our  journey.  This  was 
a  disappointment,  which,  though  not  uncom- 
mon to  us,  might  have  been  followed  by  con- 
siderable inconveniences.  It  was  my  wish  to 
continue  with  them  whatever  way  they  went ; 
but  neither  my  promises  or  entreaties  would 
avail;  these  people  were  not  to  be  turned 
from  their  purpose;  and  when  I  represented 
the  low  state  of  our  provisions,  one  of  them 
answered,  that  if  we  would  stay  with  them 
all  night,  he  would  boil  a  kettle  of  fish-roes 
for  us.  Accordingly,  without  receiving  any 
answer,  he  began  to  make  preparation  to  ful- 
fil his  engagement.  He  took  the  roes  out  of 
a  bag,  and  having  bruised  them  between  two 
stones,  put  them  in  water  to  soak.  His  wife 
then  took  an  handful  of  dry  grass  in  her  hand^ 
with  which  she  squeezed  them  through  her 
fingers ;  in  the  mean  time  her  husband  was 
employed  in  gathering  wood  to  make  a  fire, 
for  the  purpose  of  heating  stones.  When  she 
had  finished  her  operation,  she  filled  a  water 
kettle  nearly  full  of  water,  and  poured  the 
roes  into  it.  When  the  stones  were  suflS.- 
ciently  heated,  some  of  them  were  put  into 
the  kettle,  and  others  were  thrown  in  from 
time  to  time,  till  the  water  was  in  a  state  of 
boiling;  the  woman  also  continued  stirring 
the  contents  of  the  kettle,  till  they  were 
rough  to  a  thick  consistency;  the  stones 
236 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA, 

were  then  taken  out,  and  the  whole  was  sea- 
soned with  about  a  pint  of  strong  rancid  oil. 
The  smell  of  this  curious  dish  was  sufficient 
to  sicken  me  without  tasting  it,  but  the  hun- 
ger of  my  people  surmounted  the  nauseous 
meal.  When  unadulterated  by  the  stinking 
oil,  these  boiled  roes  are  not  unpalatable 
food. 

In  the  mean  time  four  of  the  people  who 
had  been  expected,  arrived,  and,  according 
to  the  account  given  of  them,  were  of  two 
tribes  whom  I  had  not  yet  known.  After 
some  conversation,  they  proposed,  that  I 
should  continue  my  route  by  their  houses; 
but  the  old  guide,  who  was  now  preparing  to 
leave  us,  informed  me  that  it  would  lengthen 
my  journey;  and  by  his  advice  I  proposed  to 
them  to  conduct  us  along  the  road  which  had 
already  been  marked  out  to  us.  This  they 
undertook  without  the  least  hesitation ;  and, 
at  the  same  time,  pointed  out  to  me  the  pass 
in  the  mountain,  bearing  South  by  East  by 
compass.  Here  I  had  a  meridian  altitude, 
and  took  time. 

At  four  in  the  afternoon  we  parted  with  our 
late  fellow-travellers  in  a  very  friendly  man- 
ner, and  immediately  forded  the  river.  The 
wild  parsnip,  which  luxuriates  on  the  borders 
of  the  lakes  and  rivers,  is  a  favourite  food  of 
the  natives :  they  roast  the  tops  of  this  plant, 
in  their  tender  state,  over  the  fire,  and  taking 
237 


JOURNAL  OP  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH    THE 

off  the  outer  rind,  they  are  then  a  very  pala- 
table food. 

We  now  entered  the  woods,  and  some  time 
after  arrived  on  the  banks  of  another  river 
that  flowed  from  the  mountain,  which  we 
also  forded.  The  country  soon  after  we 
left  the  river  was  swamp}^;  and  the  fire 
having  passed  through  it,  the  number  of 
trees,  which  had  fallen,  added  to  the  toil  of 
our  journey.  In  a  short  time  we  began  to 
ascend,  and  continued  ascending  till  nine  at 
night.  We  walked  upwards  of  fourteen  miles, 
according  to  my  computation,  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  though  the  strait  line  of  distance 
might  not  be  more  than  ten.  ISTotwithstand- 
ing  that  we  were  surrounded  by  mountains 
covered  with  snow,  we  were  very  much  tor- 
mented with  musquitoes. 

Wednesday,  17. — Before  the  sun  rose,  our 
guides  summoned  us  to  proceed,  when  we  de- 
scended into  a  beautiful  valley,  watered  by  a 
small  river.  At  eight  we  came  to  the  termi- 
nation of  it,  where  we  saw  a  great  number  of 
moles,  and  began  again  to  ascend.  We  now 
perceived  many  ground-hogs,  and  heard  them 
whistle  in  every  direction.  The  Indians  went 
in  pursuit  of  them,  and  soon  joined  us  with 
a  female  and  her  litter,  almost  grown  to  their 
full  size.  They  stripped  off  their  skins,  and 
gave  the  carcases  to  my  people.  They  also 
pulled  up  a  root,  which  appeared  like  a  bunch 
238 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA- 

of  white  berries  of  the  size  of  a  pea;  its 
shape  was  that  of  a  fig,  while  it  had  the  col- 
our and  taste  of  a  potatoe. 

We  now  gained  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  found  ourselves  surrounded  by- 
snow.  But  this  circumstance  is  caused  rather 
by  the  quantity  of  snow  drifted  in  the  pass, 
than  the  real  height  of  the  spot,  as  the  sur- 
rounding montains  rise  to  a  much  higher  de- 
gree of  elevation.  The  snow  had  become  so 
compact  that  our  feet  hardly  made  a  percepti- 
ble impression  on  it.  We  observed,  however, 
the  tracks  of  an  herd  of  small  deer  which 
must  have  passed  a  short  time  before  us,  and 
the  Indians  and  my  hunters  went  immediately 
in  pursuit  of  them.  Our  way  was  now  nearly 
level,  without  the  least  snow,  and  not  a  tree 
to  be  seen  in  any  part  of  it.  The  grass  is 
very  short,  and  the  soil  a  reddish  clay,  inter- 
mixed with  small  stones.  The  face  of  the 
hills,  where  they  are  not  enlivened  with  ver- 
dure, appears,  at  a  distance,  as  if  fire  had 
passed  over  them.  It  now  began  to  hail, 
snow,  and  rain,  nor  could  we  find  any  shelter 
but  the  leeward  side  of  an  huge  rock.  The 
wind  also  rose  into  a  tempest,  and  the  weather 
was  as  distressing  as  any  I  had  ever  experi- 
enced. After  an  absence  of  an  hour  and  a 
half,  our  hunters  brought  a  small  doe  of  the 
rein-deer  species,  which  was  all  they  had 
killed,  though  they  fired  twelve  shots  at  a 
239 


JOURNAL   OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

large  herd  of  them.  Their  ill  success  they 
attributed  to  the  weather.  I  proposed  to 
leave  half  of  the  venison  in  the  snow,  but  the 
men  preferred  carrying  it,  though  their 
strength  was  very  much  exhausted.  We  had 
been  so  long  shivering  with  cold  in  this  situ- 
ation that  we  were  glad  to  renew  our  march. 
Here  and  there  were  scattered  a  few  crow- 
berry  bushes  and  stinted  willows ;  the  former 
of  which  had  not  yet  blossomed. 

Before  us  appeared  a  stupendous  mountain, 
whose  snow-clad  summit  was  lost  in  the 
clouds ;  between  it  and  our  immediate  course, 
flowed  the  river  to  which  we  were  going. 
The  Indians  informed  us  that  it  was  at  no 
great  distance.  As  soon  as  we  could  gather 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  wood,  we  stopped  to 
dress  some  of  our  venison ;  and  it  is  almost 
superfluous  to  add,  that  we  made  an  heartier 
meal  than  we  had  done  for  many  a  day  be- 
fore. To  the  comfort  which  I  have  just  men- 
tioned, I  added  that  of  taking  off  my  beard, 
as  well  as  changing  my  linen,  and  my  people 
followed  the  humanising  example.  We  then 
set  forwards,  and  came  to  a  large  pond,  on 
whose  bank  we  found  a  tomb,  but  lately 
made,  with  a  pole,  as  usual,  erected  beside 
it,  on  which  two  figures  of  birds  were  painted, 
and  by  them  the  guides  distinguished  the  tribe 
to  which  the  deceased  person  belonged.  One 
of  them,  very  unceremoniously,  opened  the 
240 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

bark  and  shewed  us  the  bones  which  it  con- 
tained, while  the  other  threw  down  the  pole, 
and  having  possessed  himself  of  the  feathers 
that  were  tied  to  it,  fixed  them  on  his  own 
head.  I  therefore  conjectured,  that  these 
funeral  memorials  belonged  to  an  individual 
of  a  tribe  at  enmity  with  them. 

We  continued  our  route  with  a  considerable 
degree  of  expedition,  and  as  we  proceeded 
the  mountains  appeared  to  withdraw  from, 
us.  The  country  between  them  soon  opened 
to  our  view,  which  apparently  added  to  their 
awful  elevation.  We  continued  to  descend 
till  we  came  to  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  from 
whence  our  guides  discovered  the  river  to  us, 
and  a  village  on  its  banks.  This  precipice, 
or  rather  succession  of  precipices,  is  covered 
with  large  timber,  which  consists  of  the  pine, 
the  spruce,  the  hemlock,  the  birch,  and  other 
trees.  Our  conductors  informed  us,  that  it 
abounded  in  animals,  which,  from  their  de- 
scription, must  be  wild  goats.  In  about  two 
hours  we  arrived  at  the  bottom,  where  there 
is  a  conflux  of  two  rivers,  that  issue  from  the 
mountains.  We  crossed  the  one  which  was 
to  the  left.  They  are  both  very  rapid,  and 
continue  so  till  they  unite  their  currents, 
forming  a  stream  of  about  twelve  yards  in 
breadth.  Here  the  timber  was  also  very 
large ;  but  I  could  not  learn  from  our  conduc- 
tors why  the  most  considerable  hemlock  trees 
Vol.  II.— 16  241 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

were  stripped  of  their  bark  to  the  tops  of 
them.  I  concluded,  indeed,  at  that  time  that 
the  inhabitants  tanned  their  leather  with  it. 
Here  were  also  the  largest  and  loftiest  elder 
and  cedar  trees  that  I  had  ever  seen.  We 
were  now  sensible  of  an  entire  change  in  the 
climate,  and  the  berries  were  quite  ripe. 

The  sun  was  about  to  set,  when  our  conduc- 
tors left  us  to  follow  them  as  well  as  we 
could.  We  were  prevented,  however,  from 
going  far  astray,  for  we  were  hemmed  in  on 
both  sides  and  behind  by  such  a  barrier  as 
nature  never  before  presented  to  my  view. 
Our  guides  had  the  precaution  to  mark  the 
road  for  us,  by  breaking  the  branches  of  trees 
as  they  passed.  This  small  river  must,  at 
certain  seasons,  rise  to  an  uncommon  height 
and  strength  of  current  most  probably  on  the 
melting  of  the  snow ;  as  we  saw  a  large  quan- 
tity of  drift  wood  lying  twelve  feet  above  the 
immediate  level  of  the  river.  This  circum- 
stance impeded  our  progress,  and  the  pro- 
truding rocks  frequently  forced  us  to  pass 
through  the  water.  It  was  now  dark,  with- 
out the  least  appearance  of  houses,  though  it 
would  be  impossible  to  have  seen  them,  if 
there  had  been  any,  at  the  distance  of  twenty 
yards,  from  the  thickness  of  the  woods.  My 
men  were  anxious  to  stop  for  the  night ;  in- 
deed the  fatigue  they  had  suffered  justified 
the  proposal,  and  I  left  them  to  their  choice ; 
242 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

but  as  the  anxiety  of  my  mind  impelled  me 
forwards,  they  continued  to  follow  me,  till  I 
found  myself  at  the  edge  of  the  woods ;  and, 
notwithstanding  the  remonstrances  that  were 
made,  I  proceeded,  feeling  rather  than  seeing 
my  way,  till  I  arrived  at  a  house,  and  soon 
discovered  several  fires,  in  small  huts,  with 
people  busily  employed  in  cooking  their  fish. 
I  walked  into  one  of  them  without  the  least 
ceremony,  threw  down  my  burden,  and,  after 
shaking  hands  with  some  of  the  people,  sat 
down  upon  it.  They  received  me  without 
the  least  appearance  of  surprize,  but  soon 
made  signs  for  me  to  go  up  to  the  large  house, 
which  was  erected,  on  upright  posts,  at  some 
distance  from  the  ground,  A  broad  piece  of 
timber  with  steps  cut  in  it,  led  to  the  scaf- 
folding even  with  the  floor,  and  by  this  curi- 
ous kind  of  ladder  I  entered  the  house  at  one 
end ;  and  having  passed  three  fires,  at  equal 
distances  in  the  middle  of  the  building,  I  was 
received  by  several  people,  sitting  upon  a 
very  wide  board,  at  the  upper  end  of  it.  I 
shook  hands  with  them,  and  seated  myself 
beside  a  man,  the  dignity  of  whose  counte- 
nance induced  me  to  give  him  that  prefer- 
ence. I  soon  discovered  one  of  my  guides 
seated  a  little  above  me,  with  a  neat  mat 
spread  before  him,  which  I  supposed  to  be 
the  place  of  honour,  and  appropriated  to 
strangers. 

243 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

In  a  short  time  my  people  arrived,  and 
placed  themselves  near  me,  when  the  man, 
by  whom  I  sat,  immediately  rose,  and  fetched, 
from  behind  a  plank  of  about  four  feet  wide 
a  quantity  of  roasted  salmon.  He  then  di- 
rected a  mat  to  be  placed  before  me  and  Mr. 
Mackay,  who  was  now  sitting  by  me.  When 
this  ceremony  was  performed,  he  brought  a 
salmon  for  each  of  us,  and  half  an  one  to 
each  of  my  men.  The  same  plank  also  served 
as  a  screen  for  the  beds,  whither  the  women 
and  children  were  already  retired;  but 
whether  that  circumstances  took  place  on  our 
arrival,  or  was  the  natural  consequence  of  the 
late  hour  of  the  night,  I  did  not  discover. 
The  signs  of  our  protector  seemed  to  denote 
that  we  might  sleep  in  the  house,  but  as  we 
did  not  understand  him  with  a  sufficient  de- 
gree of  certainty,  I  thought  it  prudent,  from 
the  fear  of  giving  offence,  to  order  the  men 
to  make  a  fire  without,  that  we  might  sleep 
by  it.  When  he  observed  our  design,  he 
placed  boards  for  us,  that  we  might  not  take 
our  repose  on  the  bare  ground,  and  ordered  a 
fire  to  be  prepared  for  us.  We  had  not  been 
long  seated  round  it,  when  we  received  a 
large  dish  of  salmon  roes,  pounded  fine  and 
beat  up  with  water,  so  as  to  have  the  appear- 
ance of  a  cream.  Nor  was  it  without  some 
kind  of  seasoning  that  gave  it  a  bitter  taste. 
Another  dish  soon  followed,  the  princinal 
244 


NORTH-WEST   CONTINENT  OF  AIVIERICA. 

article  of  which  was  also  salmon  roes,  with 
a  large  proportion  of  gooseberries,  and  an 
herb  that  appeared  to  be  sorrel.  Its  acidity- 
rendered  it  more  agreeable  to  my  taste  than 
the  former  preparation.  Having  been  regaled 
with  these  delicacies,  for  such  they  were  con- 
sidered by  that  hospitable  spirit  which  pro- 
vided them,  we  laid  ourselves  down  to  rest, 
with  no  other  canopy  than  the  sky;  but  I 
never  enjoyed  a  more  sound  and  refreshing 
rest,  though  I  had  a  board  for  my  bed,  and 
a  billet  for  my  pillow. 

Thursday,  18. — At  five  this  morning  I 
awoke,  and  found  that  the  natives  had  lighted 
a  fire  for  us,  and  were  sitting  by  it.  My 
hospitable  friend  immediately  brought  me 
some  berries'  and  roasted  salmon,  and  his 
companions  soon  followed  his  example.  The 
former,  which  consisted  among  many  others, 
of  gooseberries,  hurtleberries,  and  raspber- 
ries, were  of  the  finest  I  ever  saw  or  tasted, 
of  their  respective  kinds.  They  also  brought 
the  dried  roes  of  fish  to  eat  with  the  berries. 

Salmon  is  so  abundant  in  this  river,  that 
these  people  have  a  constant  and  plentiful 
su]3ply  of  that  excellent  fish.  To  take  them 
with  more  facility,  they  had,  with  great  la- 
bour, formed  an  embankment  or  weir  across 
the  river,  for  the  purpose  of  placing  their 
fishing  machines,  which  they  disposed  both 
above  and  below  it.  I  expressed  my  wish  to 
245 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

visit  this  extraordinary  work,  but  these  peo- 
ple are  so  superstitious,  that  they  would  not 
allow  me  a  nearer  examination  than  I  could 
obtain  by  viewing  it  from  the  bank.  The 
river  is  about  fifty  yards  in  breadth,  and  by 
observing  a  man  fish  with  a  dipping  net,  I 
judged  it  to  be  about  ten  feet  deep  at  the  foot 
of  the  fall.  The  weir  is  a  work  of  great  la- 
bour, and  contrived  with  considerable  inge- 
nuity. It  was  near  four  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  water,  at  the  time  I  saw  it,  and  nearly 
the  height  of  the  bank  on  which  I  stood  to 
examine  it.  The  stream  is  stopped  nearly 
two-thirds  by  it.  It  is  constructed  by  fixing 
small  trees  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  in  a  slant- 
ing position  (which  could  be  practicable  only 
when  the  water  is  much  lower  than  when  I 
saw  it)  with  the  thick  part  downwards ;  over 
these  is  laid  a  bed  of  gravel,  on  which  is 
placed  a  range  of  lesser  trees,  and  so  on  alter- 
nately till  the  work  is  brought  to  its  proper 
height.  Beneath  it  the  machines  are  placed, 
into  which  the  salmon  fall  when  they  attempt 
to  leap  over.  On  either  side  there  is  a  large 
frame  of  timber-work,  six  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  upper  water,  in  which  passages  are 
left  for  the  salmon  leading  directly  into  the 
machines,  which  are  taken  up  at  pleasure. 
At  the  foot  of  the  fall  dipping  nets  are  also 
successfully  employed. 

The  water  of  this  river  is  of  the  colour  of 
246 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

asses'  milk,  which  I  attributed  in  part  to  the 
limestone  that  in  many  places  forms  the  bed 
of  the  river,  but  principally  to  the  rivulets 
which  fall  from  mountains  of  the  same  mate- 
rial. 

These  people  indulge  an  extreme  supersti- 
tion respecting  their  fish,  as  it  is  apparently 
their  only  animal  food.  Flesh  they  never 
taste,  and  one  of  their  dogs  having  picked 
and  swallowed  part  of  a  bone  which  we  had 
left,  was  beaten  by  his  master  till  he  dis- 
gorged it.  One  of  my  people  also  having 
thrown  a  bone  of  the  deer  into  the  river,  a 
native,  who  had  observed  the  circumstance, 
immediately  dived  and  brought  it  up,  and, 
having  consigned  it  to  the  fire,  instantly  pro- 
ceeded to  wash  his  polluted  hands. 

As  we  were  still  at  some  distance  from  the 
sea,  I  made  application  to  my  friend  to  pro- 
cure us  a  canoe  or  two,  with  people  to  con- 
duct us  thither.  After  he  had  made  various 
excuses,  I  at  length  comprehended  that  his 
only  objection  was  to  the  embarking  venison 
in  a  canoe  on  their  river,  as  the  fish  would 
instantly  smell  it  and  abandon  them,  so  that 
he,  his  friends,  and  relations,  must  starve. 
I  soon  eased  his  apprehensions  on  that  point, 
and  desired  to  know  what  I  must  do  with  the 
venison  that  remained,  when  he  told  me  to 
give  it  to  one  of  the  strangers  whom  he 
pointed  out  to  me,  as  being  of  a  tribe  that  eat 
247 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

flesh.  I  now  requested  hini  to  furnisli  me 
with  some  fresh  salmon  in  its  raw  state ;  but, 
instead  of  complying  with  my  wish,  he 
brought  me  a  couple  of  them  roasted,  observ- 
ing at  the  same  time,  that  the  current  was 
very  strong,  and  would  bring  us  to  the  next 
village,  where  our  wants  would  be  abundantly 
supplied.  In  short,  he  requested  that  we 
would  make  haste  to  depart.  This  was  rather 
unexpected  after  so  much  kindness  and  hos- 
pitality, but  our  ignorance  of  the  language 
prevented  us  from  being  able  to  discover  the 
cause. 

At  eight  this  morning,  fifteen  men  armed, 
the  friends  and  relations  of  these  people, 
arrived  by  land,  in  consequence  of  notice  sent 
them  in  the  night,  immediately  after  the  ap- 
pearance of  our  guides.  They  are  more  cor- 
pulent and  of  a  better  appearance  than  the 
inhabitants  of  the  interior.  Their  language 
totally  different  from  any  I  had  heard ;  the 
Atnah  or  Chin  tribe,  as  far  as  I  can  judge 
from  the  very  little  I  saw  of  that  people, 
bear  the  nearest  resemblance  to  them.  They 
appear  to  be  of  a  quiet  and  peaceable  charac- 
ter, and  never  make  any  hostile  incursions 
into  the  lands  of  their  neighbours. 

Their  dress  consists  of  a  single  robe  tied 

over  the  shoulders,  falling  down  behind,  to 

the  heels,  and  before,  a  little  below  the  knees, 

with  a  deep  fringe  round  the  bottom.     It  is 

248 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT    OF  AMERICA. 

generally  made  of  the  bark  of  the  cedar  tree, 
which  they  prepare  as  fine  as  hemp ;  though 
some  of  these  garments  are  interwoven  with 
strips  of  the  sea-otter  skin,  which  give  them 
the  appearance  of  a  fur  on  one  side.  Others 
have  stripes  of  red  and  yellow  threads  fanci- 
fully introduced  toward  the  borders,  which 
have  a  very  agreeable  effect.  The  men  have 
no  other  covering  than  that  which  I  have  de- 
scribed, and  they  unceremoniously  lay  it  aside 
when  they  find  it  convenient.  In  addition  to 
this  robe,  the  women  wear  a  close  fringe 
hanging  down  before  them  about  two  feet  in 
length,  and  half  as  wide.  When  they  sit 
down  they  draw  this  between  their  thighs. 
They  wear  their  hair  so  short,  that  it  requires 
little  care  or  combing.  The  men  have  their' s 
in  plaits,  and  being  smeared  with  oil  and  red 
earth,  instead  of  a  comb  they  have  a  small 
stick  hanging  by  a  string  from  one  of  the 
locks,  which  they  employ  to  alleviate  any 
itching  or  irritation  in  the  head.  The  colour 
of  the  eye  is  grey  with  a  tinge  of  red.  They 
have  all  high  cheek-bones,  but  the  women  are 
more  remarkable  for  that  feature  than  the 
men.  Their  houses,  arms,  and  utensils  I 
shall  describe  hereafter. 

I  presented  my  friend  with  several  articles, 

and  also  distributed  some  among  others  of 

the  natives  who  had  been  attentive  to  us. 

One  of  my  guides  had  been  very  serviceable 

249 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

in  procuring  canoes  for  us  to  proceed  on  our 
expedition ;  he  appeared  also  to  be  very  de- 
sirous of  giving  these  people  a  favourable  im- 
pression of  us;  and  I  was  very  much  con- 
cerned that  he  should  leave  me  as  he  did, 
without  giving  me  the  least  notice  of  his  de- 
parture, or  receiving  the  presents  which  I 
had  prepared  for  him,  and  he  so  well  de- 
served. At  noon  I  had  an  observation  which 
gave  52.  28.  11.  North  latitude. 


250 


KORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

JULY,  1793. 

At  one  in  the  afternoon  we  embarked, 
with  our  small  baggage,  in  two  canoes,  ac- 
companied by  seven  of  the  natives.  The 
stream  was  rapid,  and  ran  upwards  of  six 
miles  an  hour.  We  came  to  a  weir,  such  as 
I  have  already  described,  where  the  natives 
landed  us,  and  shot  over  it  without  taking  a 
drop  of  water.  They  then  received  us  on 
board  again,  and  we  continued  our  voyage, 
passing  many  canoes  on  the  river,  some  with 
people  in  them,  and  others  empty.  We  pro- 
ceeded at  a  very  great  rate  for  about  two 
hours  and  a  half,  when  we  were  informed 
that  we  must  land,  as  the  village  was  only 
at  a  short  distance.  I  had  imagined  that  the 
Canadians  who  accompanied  me  were  the 
most  expert  canoe-men  in  the  world,  but  they 
are  very  inferior  to  these  people,  as  they 
themselves  acknowledged,  in  conducting  those 
vessels. 

Some  of  the  Indians  ran  before  us,  to  an- 
nounce our  approach,  when  we  took  our  bun- 
dles and  followed.  We  had  walked  along  a 
well-beaten  path,  through  a  kind  of  coppice, 
when  we  were  informed  of  the  arrival  of  our 
251 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

couriers  at  the  houses,  by  the  loud  aud  con- 
fused talking  of  the  inhabitants.  As  we  ap- 
proached the  edge  of  the  wood,  and  were 
almost  in  sight  of  the  houses,  the  Indians 
who  were  before  me  made  signs  for  me  to 
take  the  lead,  and  that  they  would  follow. 
The  noise  and  confusion  of  the  natives  now 
seemed  to  encrease,  and  when  we  came  in 
sight  of  the  village,  we  saw  them  running 
from  house  to  house,  some  armed  with  bows 
and  arrows,  others  with  spears,  and  many 
with  axes,  as  if  in  a  state  of  great  alarm. 
This  very  unpleasant  and  unexpected  circum- 
stance, I  attributed  to  our  sudden  arrival, 
and  the  very  short  notice  of  it  which  had 
been  given  them.  At  all  events,  I  had  but 
one  line  of  conduct  to  pursue,  which  was  to 
walk  resolutely  up  to  them,  without  mani- 
festing any  signs  of  apprehension  at  their 
hostile  appearance.  This  resolution  pro- 
duced the  desired  effect,  for  as  we  approached 
the  houses,  the  greater  part  of  the  people  laid 
down  their  weapons,  and  came  forward  to 
meet  us.  I  was,  however,  soon  obliged  to 
stop  from  the  number  of  them  that  surrounded 
me.  I  shook  hands,  as  usual  with  such  as 
were  nearest  to  me,  when  an  elderly  man 
broke  through  the  crowd,  and  took  me  in  his 
arms;  another  then  came,  who  turned  him 
away  without  the  least  ceremony,  and  paid 
me  the  same  compliment.  The  latter  was 
252 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

followed  by  a  young  man,  whom  I  understood 
to  be  his  son.  These  embraces,  which  at  first 
rather,  surprised  me,  I  soon  found  to  be  marks 
of  regard  and  friendship.  The  crowd  pressed 
with  so  much  violence  and  contention  to  get 
a  view  of  us,  that  we  could  not  move  in  any 
direction.  An  opening  was  at  length  made 
to  allow  a  person  to  approach  me,  whom  the 
old  man  made  me  understand  was  another  of 
his  sons.  I  instantly  stepped  forward  to 
meet  him,  and  presented  my  hand,  whereupon 
he  broke  the  string  of  a  very  handsome  robe 
of  sea-otter  skin,  which  he  had  on,  and  cov- 
ered me  with  it.  This  was  as  flattering  a  re- 
ception as  I  could  possibly  receive,  especially 
as  I  considered  him  to  be  the  eldest  son  of  the 
chief.  Indeed  it  appeared  to  me  that  we 
had  been  detained  here  for  the  purpose  of 
giving  him  time  to  bring  the  robe  with  which 
he  had  presented  me. 

The  chief  now  made  signs  for  us  to  follow 
him,  and  he  conducted  us  through  a  narrow 
coppice,  for  several  hundred  yards,  till  we 
came  to  a  house  built  on  the  ground,  which 
was  of  larger  dimensions,  and  formed  of  bet- 
ter materials  than  any  I  had  hitherto  seen ; 
it  was  his  residence.  We  were  no  sooner 
arrived  there,  than  he  directed  mats  to  be 
spread  before  it,  on  which  we  were  told  to 
take  our  seats,  when  the  men  of  the  village, 
who  came  to  indulge  their  curiosity,  were  or- 
253 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

dered  to  keep  behind  us.  In  our  front  other 
mats  were  placed,  where  the  chief  and  his 
counsellors  took  their  seats.  In  the  interven- 
ing space,  mats,  which  were  very  clean,  and 
of  a  much  neater  workmanship  than  those  on 
which  we  sat,  were  also  spread,  and  a  small 
roasted  salmon  placed  before  each  of  us. 
When  we  had  satisfied  ourselves  with  the  fish, 
one  of  the  people  who  came  with  us  from  the 
last  village  approached,  with  a  kind  of  ladle 
in  one  hand,  containing  oil,  and  in  the  other 
something  that  resembled  the  inner  rind  of 
the  cocoa-nut,  but  of  a  lighter  colour,  this  he 
dipped  in  the  oil,  and,  having  eat  it,  indicated 
by  his  gestures  how  palatable  he  thought  it. 
He  then  presented  me  with  a  small  piece  of 
it,  which  I  chose  to  taste  in  its  dry  state, 
though  the  oil  was  free  from  any  unpleasant 
smell.  A  square  cake  of  this  was  next  pro- 
duced, when  a  man  took  it  to  the  water  near 
the  house,  and  having  thoroughly  soaked  it, 
Ae  returned,  and,  after  he  had  pulled  it  to 
pieces  like  oakum,  put  it  into  a  well-made 
trough,  about  three  feet  long,  nine  inches 
wide,  and  five  deep;  he  then  plentifully 
sprinkled  it  with  salmon  oil,  and  manifested 
by  his  own  example  that  we  were  to  eat  of  it. 
I  just  tasted  it,  and  found  the  oil  perfectly 
sweet,  without  which  the  other  ingredient 
would  have  been  very  insipid.  The  chief 
partook  of  it  with  great  a^ddity,  after  it  had 
2,^4 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AlVIERICA. 

received  an  additional  quantity  of  oil.  This 
dish  is  considered  by  these  people  as  a  great 
delicacy,  and  on  examination,  I  discovered  it 
to  consist  of  the  inner  rind  of  the  hemlock 
tree,  taken  off  early  in  summer,  and  put  into 
a  frame,  which  shapes  it  into  cakes  of  fifteen 
inches  long,  ten  broad,  and  half  an  inch 
thick ;  and  in  this  form  I  should  suppose  it 
may  be  preserved  for  a  great  length  of  time. 
This  discovery  satisfied  me  respecting  the 
many  hemlock  trees  which  I  had  observed 
stripped  of  their  bark. 

In  this  situation  we  remained  for  upwards 
of  three  hours,  and  not  one  of  the  curious 
natives  left  us  during  all  that  time,  except  a 
party  of  ten  or  twelve  of  them,  whom  the 
chief  ordered  to  go  and  catch  fish,  which  they 
did  in  great  abundance,  with  dipping  nets, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Weir. 

At  length  we  were  relieved  from  the  gazing 
crowd,  and  got  a  lodge  erected,  and  covered 
in  for  our  reception  during  the  night.  I  now 
presented  the  young  chief  with  a  blanket,  in 
return  for  the  robe  with  which  he  had  fa- 
voured me,  and  several  other  articles,  that 
appeared  to  be  very  gratifying  to  him.  I 
also  presented  some  to  his  father,  and  amongst 
them  was  a  pair  of  scissors,  whose  use  I  ex- 
plained to  him,  for  clipping  his  beard,  which 
was  of  great  length ;  and  to  that  purpose  he 
immediately  applied  them.  My  distribution 
265 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

of  similar  articles  was  also  extended  to  others, 
who  had  been  attentive  to  us.  The  communi- 
cation, however,  between  us  was  awkward 
and  inconvenient,  for  it  was  carried  on  en- 
tirely by  signs,  as  there  was  not  a  person 
with  me  who  was  qualified  for  the  office  of 
an  interpreter. 

We  were  all  of  us  very  desirous  to  get 
some  fresh  salmon,  that  we  might  dress  them 
in  our  own  way,  but  could  not  by  any  means 
obtain  that  gratification,  though  there  were 
thousands  of  that  fish  strung  on  cords,  which 
were  fastened  to  stakes  in  the  river.  They 
were  even  averse  to  our  approaching  the  spot 
where  they  clean  and  prepare  them  for  their 
own  eating.  They  had,  indeed,  taken  our 
kettle  from  us,  lest  we  should  employ  it  in 
getting  water  from  the  river;  and  they  as- 
signed as  the  reason  for  this  precaution,  that 
the  salmon  dislike  the  smell  of  iron. 

At  the  same  time,  they  supplied  us  with 
wooden  boxes,  which  were  capable  of  holding 
any  fluid.  Two  of  the  men  who  went  to  fish, 
in  a  canoe  capable  of  containing  ten  people, 
returned  with  a  full  lading  of  salmon,  that 
weighed  from  six  to  forty  pounds,  though  the 
far  greater  part  of  them  were  under  twenty. 
They  immediately  strung  the  whole  of  them, 
as  I  have  already  mentioned,  in  the  river. 

I  now  made  the  tour  of  the  village,  which 
consisted  of  four  elevated  houses,  and  seven 
256 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

built  on  the  ground,  besides  a  considerable 
number  of  other  buildings  or  sheds,  which 
are  used  only  as  kitchens,  and  places  for  cur- 
ing their  fish.  The  former  are  constructed 
by  fixing  a  certain  number  of  posts  in  the 
earth,  on  some  of  which  are  laid,  and  to 
others  are  fastened,  the  supporters  of  the 
floor,  at  about  twelve  feet  above  the  surface 
of  the  ground ;  their  length  is  from  a  hun- 
dred to  a  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  and  they 
are  about  forty  in  breadth.  Along  the  centre 
are  built  three,  four,  or  five  hearths,  for  the 
two-fold  purpose  of  giving  warmth,  and  dress- 
ing their  fish.  The  whole  length  of  the 
building  on  either  side  is  divided  by  cedar 
planks,  into  partitions  or  apartments  of  seven 
feet  square,  in  the  front  of  which  there  are 
boards,  about  three  feet  wide,  over  which, 
though  they  are  not  immovably  fixed,  the  in- 
mates of  these  recesses  generally  pass,  when 
they  go  to  rest.  The  greater  part  of  them 
are  intended  for  that  purpose,  and  such  are 
covered  with  boards,  at  the  height  of  the 
wall  of  the  house,  which  is  about  seven  or 
eight  feet,  and  rest  upon  beams  that  stretch 
across  the  building.  On  those  also  are  placed 
the  chests  which  contain  their  provisions, 
utensils,  and  whatever  they  possess.  The 
intermediate  space  is  sufficient  for  domestic 
purposes.  On  poles  that  run  along  the 
beams,  hang  roasted  fish,  and  the  whole 
Vol.  II.— 17  257 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

building  is  well  covered  with  boards  and 
bark,  except  within  a  few  inches  of  the  ridge 
pole ;  where  open  spaces  are  left  on  each  side 
to  let  in  light  and  emit  tlie  smoke.  At  the 
end  of  the  house  that  fronts  the  river,  Is  a 
narrow  scaffolding,  which  is  also  ascended  by 
a  piece  of  timber,  with  steps  cut  in  it ;  and  at 
each  corner  of  this  erection  there  are  open- 
ings for  the  inhabitants  to  ease  nature.  As 
it  does  not  appear  to  be  a  custom  among  them 
to  remove  these  heaps  of  excremental  filth,  it 
may  be  supposed  that  the  effluvia  does  not 
annoy  them. 

The  houses  which  rest  on  the  ground  are 
built  of  the  same  materials,  and  on  the  same 
plan.  A  sloping  stage  that  rises  to  a  cross 
piece  of  timber,  supported  by  two  forks,  joins 
also  to  the  main  building,  for  those  purposes 
which  need  not  be  repeated. 

When  we  were  surrounded  by  the  natives 
on  our  arrival,  I  counted  sixty-five  men,  and 
several  of  them  may  be  supposed  to  have 
been  absent;  I  cannot,  therefore,  calculate 
the  inhabitants  of  this  village  at  less  than 
two  hundred  souls. 

The  people  who  accompanied  us  hither, 
from  the  other  village,  had  given  the  chief  a 
very  particular  account  of  everything  they 
knew  concerning  us:  I  was,  therefore,  re- 
quested to  produce  my  astronomical  instru- 
ments, nor  could  I  have  any  objection  to 
258 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

afford  them  this  satisfaction,  as  they  would 
necessarily  add  to  our  importance  in  their 
opinion. 

Near  the  house  of  the  chief  I  observed  sev- 
eral oblong  squares,  of  about  twenty  feet  by 
eight.  They  were  made  of  thick  cedar  boards, 
which  were  joined  with  so  much  neatness, 
that  I  at  first  thought  they  were  one  piece. 
They  were  painted  with  hieroglyphics,  and 
figures  of  different  animals,  and  with  a  de- 
gree of  correctness  that  was  not  to  be  ex- 
pected from  such  an  uncultivated  people.  I 
could  not  learn  the  use  of  them,  but  they  ap- 
peared to  be  calculated  for  occasional  acts  of 
devotion  or  sacrifice,  which  all  these  tribes 
perform  at  least  twice  in  the  year,  at  the 
spring  and  fall.  I  was  confirmed  in  this 
opinion  by  a  large  building  in  the  middle  of 
the  village,  which  I  at  first  took  for  the  half 
finished  frame  of  a  house.  The  groundplot 
of  it  was  fifty  feet  by  forty-five ;  each  end  is 
formed  by  four  stout  posts,  fixed  perpendicu- 
larly in  the  ground.  The  corner  ones  are 
plain,  and  support  a  beam  of  the  whole 
length,  having  three  intermediate  props  on 
each  side,  but  of  a  larger  size,  and  eight  or 
nine  feet  in  height.  The  two  centre  posts, 
at  each  end,  are  two  feet  and  a  half  in  diame- 
ter, and  carved  into  human  figures,  support- 
ing two  ridge  poles  on  their  heads,  at  twelve 
feet  from  the  ground.  The  figures  at  the 
259 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

upper  part  of  this  square  represent  tvro  per- 
sons, with  their  hands  upon  their  knees,  as 
if  they  supported  the  weight  with  pain  and 
difficulty ;  the  others  opposite  to  them  stand 
at  their  ease,  with  their  hands  resting  on 
their  hips.  In  the  area  of  the  building  there 
were  the  remains  of  several  fires.  The  posts, 
poles,  and  figures,  were  painted  red  and 
black;  but  the  sculpture  of  these  people  is 
superior  to  their  painting. 

Friday ,  19. — Soon  after  I  retired  to  rest 
last  night,  the  chief  paid  me  a  visit  to  insist 
on  my  going  to  his  bed-companion,  and  tak- 
ing my  place  himself;  but,  notwithstanding 
his  repeated  entreaties,  I  resisted  this  offer- 
ing of  his  hospitality. 

At  an  early  hour  this  morning,  I  was  again 
visited  by  the  chief,  in  company  with  his  son. 
The  former  complained  of  a  pain  in  his 
breast;  to  relieve  his  suffering,  I  gave  him  a 
few  drops  of  Turlington's  Balsam  on  a  piece 
of  sugar ;  and  I  was  rather  surprised  to  see 
him  take  it  without  the  least  hesitation. 
When  he  had  taken  my  medicine,  he  requested 
me  to  follow  him,  and  conducted  me  to  a  shed, 
where  several  people  were  assembled  round  a 
sick  man,  who  was  another  of  his  sons.  They 
immediately  uncovered  him,  and  showed  me 
a  violent  ulcer  in  the  small  of  his  back,  in 
the  foulest  state  that  can  be  imagined.  One 
of  his  knees  was  also  afflicted  in  the  same 
260 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

manner.  This  unhappy  man  was  reduced  to 
a  skeleton,  and,  from  his  appearance,  was 
drawing  near  to  an  end  of  his  pains.  They 
requested  that  I  would  touch  him,  and  his 
father  was  very  urgent  with  me  to  administer 
medicine;  but  he  was  in  such  a  dangerous 
state,  that  I  thought  it  prudent  to  yield  no 
further  to  the  importunities  than  to  give  the 
sick  man  a  few  drops  of  Turlington's  Balsam 
in  some  water.  I  therefore  left  them,  but 
was  soon  called  back  by  the  loud  lamenta- 
tions of  the  women,  and  was  rather  appre- 
hensive that  some  inconvenience  might  result 
from  my  compliance  with  the  chief's  request. 
On  my  return  I  found  the  native  physicians 
busy  in  practising  their  skill  and  art  on  the 
patient.  They  blew  on  him,  and  then  whis- 
tled; at  times  they  pressed  their  extended 
fingers,  with  all  their  strength,  on  his  stom- 
ach; they  also  put  their  forefingers  doubled 
into  his  mouth,  and  spouted  water  from  their 
own  with  great  violence  into  his  face.  To  sup- 
port these  operations,  the  wretched  sufferer 
was  held  up  in  a  sitting  posture ;  and  when 
they  were  concluded,  he  was  laid  down  and 
covered  with  a  new  robe  made  of  the  skins  of 
the  lynx.  I  had  observed  that  his  belly  and 
breast  were  covered  with  scars,  and  I  under- 
stood that  they  were  caused  by  a  custom 
prevalent  among  them,  of  applying  pieces  of 
lighted  touch-wood  to  their  flesh,  in  order  to 
261 


JOURNAL    OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

relieve  pain  or  demonstrate  their  courage. 
He  was  now  placed  on  a  broad  plank,  and 
carried  by  six  men  into  the  woods,  where  I 
was  invited  to  accompany  them.  I  could  not 
conjecture  what  would  be  the  end  of  this 
ceremony,  particularly  as  I  saw  one  man 
carry  fire,  another  an  axe,  and  a  third  dry 
wood.  I  was  indeed,  disposed  to  suspect 
that,  as  it  was  their  custom  to  burn  the  dead, 
they  intended  to  relieve  the  poor  man  from 
his  pain,  and  perform  the  last  sad  duty  of 
surviving  affection.  When  they  advanced  a 
short  distance  into  the  woods,  they  laid  him 
upon  a  clear  spot,  and  kindled  a  fire  against 
his  back,  when  the  physician  began  to  scarify 
the  ulcer  with  a  very  blunt  instrument,  the 
cruel  pain  of  which  operation  the  patient  bore 
with  incredible  resolution.  The  scene  afflicted 
me,  and  I  left  it. 

On  my  return  to  our  lodge,  I  observed  be^ 
fore  the  door  of  the  chief's  residence,  four 
heaps  of  salmon,  each  of  which  consisted  of 
between  three  and  four  hundred  fish.  Six- 
teen women  were  employed  in  cleaning  and 
preparing  them.  They  first  separate  the  head 
from  the  body,  the  former  of  which  they 
boil ;  they  then  cut  the  latter  down  the  back 
on  each  side  of  the  bone,  leaving  one  third 
of  the  fish  adhering  to  it,  and  afterwards  take 
out  the  guts.  The  bone  is  roasted  for  im- 
mediate use,  and  the  other  parts  are  dressed 
262 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

in  the  same  manner,  but  with  more  attention, 
for  future  provision.  While  they  are  before 
the  fire,  troughs  are  placed  under  them  to  re- 
ceive the  oil.  The  roes  are  also  carefully 
preserved,  and  form  a  favourite  article  of 
their  food. 

After  I  had  observed  these  culinary  prepa- 
rations, I  paid  a  visit  to  the  chief,  who  pre- 
sented me  with  a  roasted  salmon  j  he  then 
opened  one  of  his  chests,  and  took  out  of  it  a 
garment  of  blue  cloth,  decorated  with  brass 
buttons;  and  another  of  flowered  cotton, 
which  I  supposed  were  Spanish ;  it  had  been 
trimmed  with  leather  fringe,  after  the  fash- 
ion of  their  own  cloaks.  Copper  and  brass 
are  in  great  estimation  among  them,  and  of 
the  former  they  have  great  plenty:  they 
point  their  arrows  and  spears  with  it,  and 
work  \t  up  into  personal  ornaments ;  such  as 
collars,  ear-rings,  and  bracelets,  which  they 
wear  on  their  wrists,  arms,  and  legs.  I  pre- 
sume they  find  it  the  most  advantageous  arti- 
cles of  trade  with  the  more  inland  tribes. 
They  also  abound  in  iron.  I  saw  some  of 
their  twisted  collars  of  that  metal  which 
weighed  upwards  of  twelve  pounds.  It  is 
generally  beat  in  bars  of  fourteen  inches  in 
length,  and  one  inch  three  quarters  wide. 
The  brass  is  in  thin  squares :  their  copper  is 
in  larger  pieces,  and  some  of  it  appeared  to 
be  old  still-a  cut  up.  They  have  various  trin- 
263 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

kets;  but  their  manufactured  iron  consists 
only  of  poignards  and  daggers.  Some  of  the 
former  have  very  neat  handles,  with  a  silver 
coin  of  a  quarter  or  eighth  of  a  dollar  fixed 
on  the  end  of  them. — The  blades  of  the  latter 
are  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  in  length,  and 
about  four  inches  broad  at  the  top,  from 
which  they  gradually  lessen  into  a  point. 

When  I  produced  my  instruments  to  take 
an  altitude,  I  was  desired  not  to  make  use 
of  them.  I  could  not  then  discover  the  cause 
of  this  request,  but  I  experienced  the  good 
effect  of  the  apprehension  which  they  occa- 
sioned, as  it  was  very  effectual  in  hastening 
my  departure.  I  had  applied  several  times 
to  the  chief  to  prepare  canoes  and  people  to 
take  me  and  my  party  to  the  sea,  but  very 
little  attention  had  been  paid  to  my  applica- 
tion till  noon ;  when  I  was  informed  that  a 
canoe  was  properly  equipped  for  my  voyage, 
and  that  the  young  chief  would  accompany 
me.  I  now  discovered  that  they  had  enter- 
tained no  personal  fear  of  the  instruments, 
but  were  apprehensive  that  the  operation  of 
them  might  frighten  the  salmon  from  that 
part  of  the  river.  The  observation  taken  m 
this  village  gave  me  52.  25.  52.  North  lati- 
tude. 

In  compliance  with  the  chief's  request  I 
desired  my  people  to  take  their  bundles,  and 
lay  them  down  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  In 
264 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

the  mean  time  I  went  to  take  the  dimensions 
of  his  large  canoe,  in  which,  it  was  signified 
to  me,  that  about  ten  winters  ago  he  went  a 
considerable  distance  towards  the  mid-day 
sun,  with  forty  of  his  people,  when  he  saw  two 
large  vessels  full  of  such  men  as  myself,  by 
whom  he  was  kindly  received :  they  were,  he 
said,  the  first  white  people  he  had  seen. 
They  were  probably  the  ships  commanded  by 
Captain  Cook.  This  canoe  was  built  of  cedar, 
forty-five  feet  long,  four  feet  wide,  and  three 
feet  and  a  half  in  depth.  It  was  painted 
black  and  decorated  with  white  figures  of  fish 
of  different  kinds.  The  gunwale,  fore  and 
aft,  was  inlaid  with  the  teeth  of  the  sea- 
otter.* 

When  I  returned  to  the  river,  the  natives 
who  were  to  accompany  us,  and  my  people, 
were  already  in  the  canoe.  The  latter,  how- 
ever, informed  me,  that  one  of  our  axes  was 
missing.  I  immediately  applied  to  the  chief, 
and  requested  its  restoration ;  but  he  would 
not  understand  me  till  I  sat  myself  down  on 
a  stone,  with  my  arms  in  a  state  of  prepara- 
tion, and  made  it  appear  to  him  that  I  should 

*  As  Captain  Cook  has  mentioned,  that  the  peo- 
ple of  the  sea-coast  adorned  tlieir  canoes  with  hu- 
man teeth,  I  was  more  particular  in  my  inquiries ; 
the  result  of  which  was,  the  most  satisfactory  proof 
that  he  was  mistaken ;  but  his  mistake  arose  from 
the  very  great  resemblance  there  is  between  human 
teeth  and  those  of  the  sea-otter. 
265 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

not  depart  till  tlie  stolen  article  was  restored. 
The  village  was  immediately  in  a  state  of  up- 
roar, and  some  danger  was  apprehended  from 
the  confusion  that  prevailed  in  it.  The  axe, 
however,  which  had  been  hidden  under  the 
chief's  canoe,  was  soon  returned.  Though 
this  instrument  was  not,  in  itsell,  of  sufficient 
value  to  justify  a  dispute  with  these  people, 
I  apprehended  that  the  suffering  them  to 
keep  it,  after  we  had  declared  its  loss,  might 
have  occasioned  the  loss  of  every  thing  we 
carried  with  us,  and  of  our  lives  also.  My 
people  were  dissatisfied  with  me  at  the  mo- 
ment ;  but  I  thought  myself  right  then,  and, 
I  think  now,  that  the  circumstances  in  which 
we  were  involved,  justified  the  measure  which 
I  adopted. 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 


CHAPTER   X. 

JULY,  1793. 

Saturday,  18. — At  one  in  the  afternoon  we 
renewed  our  voyage  in  a  large  canoe  with 
four  of  the  natives.  We  found  the  river 
almost  one  continued  rapid,  and  in  half  an 
hour  we  came  to  a  house,  where,  however, 
we  did  not  land,  though  invited  by  the  in- 
habitants. In  about  an  hour  we  arrived  at 
two  houses,  where  we  were,  in  some  degree, 
obliged  to  go  on  shore,  as  we  were  informed 
that  the  owner  of  them  was  a  person  of  con- 
sideration. He  indeed  received  and  regaled 
us  in  the  same  manner  as  at  the  last  village ; 
and  to  increase  his  consequence,  he  produced 
many  European  articles,  and  amongst  them 
were  at  least  forty  pounds  weight  of  old  cop- 
per stills.  We  made  our  stay  as  short  as 
possible,  and  our  host  embarked  with  us.  In 
a  very  short  time  we  were  carried  by  the  ra- 
pidity of  the  current  to  another  house  of  very 
large  dimensions,  which  was  partitioned  into 
different  apartments,  and  whose  doors  were 
on  the  side.  The  inhabitants  received  us 
with  great  kindness ;  but  instead  of  fish,  they 
placed  a  long,  clean,  and  well  made  trough 
before  us  full  of  berries.  In  addition  to 
267 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

those  which  we  had  already  seen,  there  were 
some  black,  that  were  larger  than  the  hurtle- 
berry,  and  of  a  richer  flavour ;  others  white, 
which  resembled  the  blackberry  in  everything 
but  colour.  Here  we  saw  a  woman  with  two 
pieces  of  copper  in  her  under  lip,  as  described 
by  Captain  Cook.  I  continued  my  usual 
practice  of  making  these  people  presents  in 
return  for  their  friendly  reception  and  enter- 
tainment. 

The  navigation  of  the  river  now  became 
more  difficult,  from  the  numerous  channels 
into  which  it  was  divided,  without  any  sensi- 
ble diminution  in  the  velocity  of  its  current. 
"We  soon  reached  another  house  of  the  com- 
mon size,  where  we  were  well  received ;  but 
-whether  our  guides  had  informed  them  that 
"we  were  not  in  want  of  anytliing,  or  that  they 
were  deficient  in  inclination,  or  perhaps  the 
means,  of  being  hospitable  to  us,  they  did 
not  offer  us  any  refreshment.  They  were  in 
a  state  of  busy  preparation.  Some  of  the 
women  were  employed  in  beating  and  prepar- 
ing the  inner  rind  of  the  cedar  bark,  to  which 
they  gave  the  appearance  of  flax.  Others 
were  spinning  with  a  distaff  and  spindle. 
One  of  them  was  weaving  a  robe  of  it,  inter- 
mixed with  stripes  of  the  sea-otter  skin,  on  a 
frame  of  adequate  contrivance  that  was  placed 
against  the  side  of  the  house.  The  men  were 
fishing  on  the  river  with  drag-nets  between 
268 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

two  canoes.  These  nets  are  forced  by  poles 
to  the  bottom,  the  current  driving  them  be- 
fore it ;  by  which  means  the  salmon  coming 
up  the  river  are  intercepted,  and  give  notice 
of  their  being  taken  by  the  struggles  they 
make  in  the  bag  or  sleeve  of  the  net.  There 
are  no  weirs  in  this  part  of  the  river,  as  I 
suppose,  from  the  numerous  channels  into 
which  it  is  divided.  The  machines,  there- 
fore, are  placed  along  the  banks,  and  conse- 
quently these  people  are  not  so  well  supplied 
with  fish  as  the  village  which  has  been  already 
described,  nor  do  they  appear  to  possess  the 
same  industry.  The  inhabitants  of  the  last 
house  accompanied  us  in  a  large  canoe. 
They  recommended  us  to  leave  ours  here,  as 
the  next  village  was  but  at  a  small  distance 
from  us,  and  the  water  more  rapid  than  that 
which  we  had  passed.  They  informed  us 
also,  that  we  were  approaching  a  cascade.  I 
directed  them  to  shoot  it,  and  proceeded  my- 
self to  the  foot  thereof,  where  I  re-embarked, 
and  we  went  on  with  great  velocity,  till  we 
came  to  a  fall,  where  we  left  our  canoe,  and 
carried  our  luggage  along  a  road  through  a 
wood  for  some  hundred  yards,  when  we  came 
to  a  village,  consisting  of  six  very  large 
houses,  erected  on  pallisades,  rising  twenty- 
five  feet  from  the  ground,  which  differed  in 
no  one  circumstance  from  those  already  de- 
scribed, but  the  height  of  their  elevation. 
269 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

Tliey  contained  only  four  men  and  their 
families.  The  rest  of  the  inhabitants  were 
with  us  and  in  the  small  houses  which  we 
passed  higher  up  the  river.*  These  people 
do  not  seem  to  enjoy  the  abundance  of  their 
neighbours,  as  the  men  who  returned  from 
fishing  had  no  more  than  five  salmon ;  they 
refused  to  sell  one  of  them,  but  gave  me  one 
roasted  of  a  very  indifferent  kind.  In  the 
houses  there  were  several  chests  or  boxes 
containing  different  articles  that  belonged  to 
the  people  whom  we  had  lately  passed.  If  I 
were  to  judge  by  the  heaps  of  filth  beneath 
these  buildings,  they  must  have  been  erected 
at  a  more  distant  period  than  any  which  we 
liad  passed.  From  these  houses  I  could 
perceive  the  termination  of  the  river,  and 
its  discharge  into  a  narrow  arm  of  the 
sea. 

As  it  was  now  half  past  six  in  the  evening, 
and  the  weather  cloudy,  I  determined  to 
remain  here  for  the  night,  and  for  that  pur- 
pose we  possessed  ourselves  of  one  of  the 
unoccupied  houses.  The  remains  of  our  last 
meal,  which  we  brought  with  us,  served  for 
our  supper,  as  we  could  not  procure  a  single 
fish  from  the  natives.  The  course  of  the  river 
is  about  West,  and  the  distance  from  the 
great  village  upwards  of  thirty-six  miles. — • 

*  Mr.  Johnstone  came  to   these  houses  the  first 
day  of  the  preceding  month. 
270 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

There  we  had  lost  our  dog,  a  circumstance 
of  no  small  regret  to  me. 

Saturday,  20. — We  rose  at  a  very  early 
hour  this  morning,  when  I  proposed  to  the 
Indians  to  run  down  our  canoe,  or  procure 
another  at  this  place.  To  both  these  propos- 
als they  turned  a  deaf  ear,  as  they  imagined 
that  I  should  be  satisfied  with  having  come 
in  sight  of  the  sea.  Two  of  them  perempto- 
rily refused  to  proceed;  but  the  other  two 
having  consented  to  continue  with  us,  we 
obtained  a  larger  canoe  than  our  former  one, 
and  though  it  was  in  a  leaky  state  we  were 
glad  to  possess  it. 

At  about  eight  we  got  out  of  the  river, 
which  discharges  itself  by  various  channels 
into  an  arm  of  the  sea.  The  tide  was  out, 
and  had  left  a  large  space  covered  with  sea- 
weed. The  surrounding  hills  were  involved 
in  fog.  The  wind  was  at  West,  which  wa& 
ahead  of  us,  and  very  strong;  the  bay  ap- 
pearing to  be  from  one  to  three  miles  in 
breadth.  As  we  advanced  along  the  land  we 
saw  a  great  number  of  sea-otters.  We  fired 
several  shots  at  them,  but  without  any  suc- 
cess from  the  rapidity  with  which  they 
plunge  under  the  water.  We  also  saw  many 
small  porpoises  or  divers.  The  white-headed 
eagle,  which  is  common  in  the  interior  parts; 
some  small  gulls,  a  dark  bird  which  is  inferior 
in  size  to  the  gull,  and  a  few  small  ducks, 
271 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

were  all  the  birds  which  presented  themselves 
to  our  view. 

At  two  in  the  afternoon  the  swell  was  so 
high,  and  the  wind,  which  was  against  us,  so 
boisterous,  that  we  could  not  proceed  with 
our  leaky  vessel,  we  therefore  landed  in  a 
small  cove  on  the  right  side  of  the  bay.  Op- 
posite to  us  appeared  another  small  bay,  in 
the  mouth  of  which  is  an  island,  and  where, 
according  to  the  information  of  the  Indians, 
a  river  discharges  itself  that  abounds  in 
salmon. 

Our  young  Indians  now  discovered  a  very 
evident  disposition  to  leave  us ;  and,  in  the 
evening,  one  of  them  made  his  escape.  Mr. 
Mackay,  however,  with  the  other,  pursued 
and  brought  him  back ;  but  as  it  was  by  no 
means  necessary  to  detain  him,  particularly 
as  provisions  did  not  abound  with  us,  I  gave 
him  a  small  portion,  with  a  pair  of  shoes, 
which  were  necessary  for  his  journey,  and  a 
silk  handkerchief,  telling  him  at  the  same 
time,  that  he  might  go  and  inform  his  friends, 
that  we  should  also  return  in  three  nights. 
He  accordingly  left  us,  and  his  companion, 
the  young  chief,  went  with  him. 

^¥hen  we  landed,  the  tide  was  going  out, 
and  at  a  quarter  past  four  it  was  ebb,  the 
water  having  fallen  in  that  short  period  eleven 
feet  and  an  half.  Since  we  left  the  river, 
not  a  quarter  of  an  hour  had  passed  in  which 
272 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

we  did  not  see  porpoises  and  sea-otters.  Soon 
after  ten  it  was  high  water,  and  rendered  it 
necessary  that  our  baggage  should  be  shifted 
several  times,  though  not  till  some  of  the 
things  had  been  wetted. 

We  were  now  reduced  to  the  necessity  of 
looking  out  for  fresh  water,  with  which  we 
were  plentifully  supplied  by  the  rills  that  ran 
down  from  the  mountains. 

When  it  was  dark  the  young  chief  returned 
to  us,  bearing  a  large  porcupine  on  his  back. 
He  first  cut  the  animal  open,  and  having  dis- 
encumbered it  of  the  entrails,  threw  them 
into  the  sea;  he  then  singed  its  skin,  and 
boiled  it  in  separate  pieces,  as  our  kettle  was 
not  sufficiently  capacious  to  contain  the 
whole;  nor  did  he  go  to  rest,  till  with  the 
assistance  of  two  of  my  people  who  happened 
to  be  awake,  every  morsel  of  it  was  devoured. 

I  had  flattered  myself  with  the  hope  of 
getting  a  distance  of  the  moon  and  stars,  but 
the  cloudy  weather  continually  disappointed 
me,  and  I  began  to  fear  that  I  should  fail  in 
this  important  object ;  particularly  as  our  pro- 
visions were  at  a  very  low  ebb,  and  we  had, 
as  yet,  no  reason  to  expect  any  assistance 
from  the  natives.  Our  stock  was,  at  this 
time,  reduced  to  twenty  pounds  weight  of 
pemmican,  fifteen  pounds  of  rice,  and  six 
pounds  of  flour,  among  ten  half -starved  men, 
in  a  leaky  vessel,  and  on  a  barbarous  coast. 
Vol.  II.— 18  273 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

Our  course  from  the  river  was  about  West- 
South- West,  distance  ten  miles. 

Sunday,  21. — At  forty  minutes  past  four 
this  morning  it  was  low  water,  which  made 
fifteen  feet  of  perpendicular  height  below  the 
high-water  mark  of  last  night.  Mr.  Mackay 
collected  a  quantity  of  small  muscles  which 
we  boiled.  Our  people  did  not  partake  of 
this  regale,  as  they  are  wholly  unacquainted 
with  sea  shell-fish.  Our  young  chief  being 
missing,  we  imagined  that  he  had  taken  his 
flight,  but,  as  we  were  preparing  to  depart, 
he  fortunately  made  his  appearance  from  the 
woods,  where  he  had  been  to  take  his  rest 
after  his  feast  of  last  night. 

At  six  we  were  upon  the  water,  when  we 
cleared  the  small  bay,  which  we  named  Por- 
cupine Cove,  and  steered  West-South- West 
for  seven  miles,  we  then  opened  a  channel 
about  two  miles  and  a  half  wide  at  South- 
South- West,  and  had  a  view  of  ten  or  twelve 
miles  into  it. 

As  I  could  not  ascertain  the  distance  from 
the  open  sea,  and  being  uncertain  whether 
we  were  in  a  bay  or  among  inlets  and  chan- 
nels of  islands,  I  confined  my  search  to  a 
proper  place  for  taking  an  observation.  We 
steered,  therefore,  along  the  land  on  the  left, 
West-North -West  a  mile  and  a  half;  then 
North-West  one  fourth  of  a  mile,  and  North 
three  miles  to  an  island ;  the  land  continuing 
274 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

to  run  North-North-West,  then  along  the 
island,  South-South- West  half  a  mile,  West 
a  mile  and  a  half,  and  from  thence  directly 
across  to  the  land  on  the  left,  (where  I  had 
an  altitude,)  South- West  three  miles.*  From 
this  position  a  channel,  of  which  the  island 
we  left  appeared  to  make  a  check,  bears 
North  by  East. 

Under  the  land  we  met  with  three  canoes, 
with  fifteen  men  in  them,  and  laden  with 
their  moveables,  as  if  proceeding  to  a  new 
situation,  or  returning  to  a  former  one.  They 
manifested  no  kind  of  mistrust  or  fear  of  us, 
but  entered  into  conversation  with  our  young 
man,  as  I  suppossed,  to  obtain  some  informa- 
tion concerning  us.  It  did  not  appear  that 
they  were  the  same  people  as  those  we  had 
lately  seen,  as  they  spoke  the  language  of 
our  young  chief,  with  a  different  accent. 
They  then  examined  everything  we  had  in 
our  canoe,  with  an  air  of  indifference  and  dis- 
dain. One  of  them  in  particular  made  me 
understand,  with  an  air  of  insolence,  that  a 
large  canoe  had  lately  been  in  this  bay,  with 
people  in  her  like  me,  and  that  one  of  them, 
whom  he  called  Macuhah  had  fired  on  him 
and  his  friends,  and  that  Bensins  had  struck 
him  on  the  back,  with  the  flat  part  of  his 
sword.  He  also  mentioned  another  name, 
the  articulation  of  which  I  could  not  deter- 

*  The  Cape  or  Poiut  Menzies  of  Vancouver. 

275 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

mine.  At  the  same  time  he  illustrated  these 
circumstances  by  the  assistance  of  my  gun 
and  sword ;  and  I  do  not  doubt  but  he  well 
deserved  the  treatment  which  he  described. 
He  also  produced  several  European  articles, 
which  could  not  have  been  long  in  his  pos- 
session. From  his  conduct  and  appearance, 
I  wished  very  much  to  be  rid  of  him,  and 
flattered  myself  that  he  would  prosecute  his 
voyage,  which  appeared  to  be  in  an  opposite 
direction  to  our  course. 

However,  when  I  prepared  to  part  from 
them,  they  turned  their  canoes  about,  and 
persuaded  my  young  man  to  leave  me,  which 
I  could  not  prevent. 

We  coasted  along  the  land  *  at  about  West- 
South-West  for  six  miles,  and  met  a  canoe 
with  two  boys  in  it,  who  were  dispatched  to 
summon  the  people  on  that  part  of  the  coast 
to  join  them.  The  troublesome  fellow  now 
forced  himself  into  my  canoe,  and  pointed 
out  a  narrow  channel  on  the  opposite  shore, 
that  led  to  his  village,  and  requested  us  to 
steer  towards  it,  which  I  accordingly  ordered. 
His  importunities  now  became  very  irksome, 
and  he  wanted  to  see  everything  we  had,  par- 
ticularly my  instruments,  concerning  which 
he  must  have  received  information  from  my 
young  man.  He  asked  for  my  hat,  my  hand- 
kerchief,  and  in  short,  everything  that  he 

*  Named  by  Vancouver  King's  Island. 
276 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

saw  about  me.  At  the  same  time  he  fre- 
quently repeated  the  unpleasant  intelligence 
that  he  had  been  shot  at  by  people  of  my 
colour.  At  some  distance  from  the  land  a 
channel  opened  to  us,  at  South-West  by 
West,  and  pointing  that  way,  he  made  me 
understand  that  Macuhah  came  there  with  his 
large  canoe.  When  we  were  in  mid-channel, 
I  perceived  some  sheds,  or  the  remains  of  old 
buildings  on  the  shore;  and  as,  from  that 
circumstance  I  thought  it  probable  that  some 
Europeans  might  have  been  there  I  directed 
my  steersman  to  make  for  that  spot.  The 
traverse  is  upwards  of  three  miles  North- 
West. 

We  landed,  and  found  the  ruins  of  a  vil- 
lage, in  a  situation  calculated  for  defence. 
The  place  itself  was  overgrown  with  weeds, 
and  in  the  centre  of  the  houses  there  was  a 
temple,  of  the  same  form  and  construction  as 
that  which  I  described  at  the  large  village. 
We  were  soon  followed  by  ten  canoes,  each 
of  which  contained  from  three  to  six  men. 
They  informed  us  that  we  were  expected  at 
the  village,  where  we  should  see  many  of 
them.  From  their  general  deportment  I  was 
very  apprehensive  that  some  hostile  design 
was  meditated  against  us,  and  for  the  first 
time  I  acknowledged  my  apprehensions  to 
my  people.  I  accordingly  desired  them  to 
be  very  much  upon  their  guard,  and  to  be 
277 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

prepared  if  any  violence  was  offered  to  de- 
fend themselves  to  the  last. 

We  had  no  sooner  landed,  than  we  took 
possession  of  a  rock,  where  there  was  nofe 
space  for  more  than  twice  our  number,  anc 
which  admitted  of  our  defending  ourselves 
with  advantage,  in  case  we  should  be  attacked. 
The  people  in  the  three  first  canoes,  were  the 
most  troublesome,  but,  after  doing  their  ut- 
most to  irritate  us,  they  went  away. 

They  were,  however,  no  sooner  gone,  than 
a  hat,  a  handkerchief,  and  several  other  arti- 
cles, were  missing.  The  rest  of  our  visitors 
continued  their  pressing  invitations  to  accom- 
pany them  to  their  village,  but  finding  our 
resolution  to  decline  them  was  not  to  be 
shaken,  they,  about  sun-set  relieved  us  from 
all  further  importunities,  by  their  departure. 

Another  canoe,  however,  soon  arrived,  with 
seven  stout,  well-looking  men.  They  brought 
a  box,  which  contained  a  very  fine  sea-otter 
skin,  and  a  goat  skin  that  was  beautifully 
white.  For  the  former  they  demanded  my 
hanger,  which,  as  may  well  be  supposed, 
could  not  be  spared  in  our  present  situation, 
and  they  actually  refused  to  take  a  yard  and 
a  half  of  common  broad  cloth,  with  some 
other  articles,  for  the  skin,  which  proves  the 
unreflecting  improvidence  of  our  European 
traders.  The  goat-skin  was  so  bulky  that  I 
did  not  offer  to  purchase  it.  These  men  also 
278 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

told  me  that  Macubah  had  been  there,  and 
left  his  ship  behind  a  point  of  land  in  the 
channel,  South- West  from  us;  from  whence 
"he  had  come  to  their  village  in  boats,  which 
these  people  represented  by  imitating  our 
manner  of  rowing.  When  I  offered  them 
what  they  did  not  choose  to  accept  for  the 
otter-skin,  they  shook  their  heads,  and  very 
distinctly  answered,  "  No,  no. "  And  to  mark 
their  refusal  of  anything  we  asked  from 
them,  they  emphatically  employed  the  same 
British  monosyllable.  In  one  of  the  canoes 
which  had  left  us,  there  was  a  seal,  that  I 
wished  to  purchase,  but  could  not  persuade 
the  natives  to  part  with  it.  They  had  also  a 
fish,  which  I  now  saw  for  the  first  time.  It 
was  about  eighteen  inches  in  length,  of  the 
shape  and  appearance  of  a  trout,  with  strong 
sharp  teeth.  We  saw  great  numbers  of  the 
animals  which  we  had  taken  for  sea-otters, 
but  I  was  now  disposed  to  think  that  a  great 
part  of  them,  at  least,  must  have  been  seals. 
The  natives  having  left  us,  we  made  a  fire 
to  warm  ourselves,  and  as  for  supper,  there 
was  but  little  of  that,  for  our  whole  daily 
allowance  did  not  amount  to  what  was  suffi- 
cient for  a  single  meal.  The  weather  was 
clear  throughout  the  day,  which  was  suc- 
ceeded by  a  fine  moon-light  night.  I  directed 
the  people  to  keep  watch  by  two  in  turn,  and 
laid  myself  down  on  my  cloak. 
27*9 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

Monday y  22. — This  morning  the  weather 
was  clear  and  pleasant;  nor  had  anything 
occurred  to  disturb  us  throughout  the  night. 
One  solitary  Indian,  indeed,  came  to  us  with 
about  half  a  pound  of  boiled  seal's  flesh,  and 
the  head  of  a  small  salmon,  for  which  he 
asked  a  handkerchief,  but  afterwards  accepted 
a  few  beads.  As  this  man  came  alone,  I 
concluded  that  no  general  plan  had  been, 
formed  among  the  natives  to  annoy  us,  but 
this  opinion  did  not  altogether  calm  the  ap- 
prehensions of  my  people. 

Soon  after  eight  in  the  morning,  I  took  five 
altitudes  for  time,  and  the  mean  of  them  was 
36°  48'  at  six  in  the  afternoon,  58.  34.  time, 
by  the  watch,  which  makes  the  achrometer 
slow  apparent  time  1^  2V^  44^ 

Two  canoes  now  arrived  from  the  same 
quarter  as  the  rest,  with  several  men,  and 
our  young  Indian  along  with  them.  They 
brought  a  very  few  small  sea-otter  skins,  out 
of  season,  with  some  pieces  of  raw  seal's 
flesh.  The  former  were  of  no  value,  but 
hunger  compelled  some  of  my  people  to  take 
the  latter,  at  an  extravagant  price.  Mr. 
Mackay  lighted  a  bit  of  touch-wood  with  a 
burning-glass,  in  the  cover  of  his  tobacco-box, 
which  so  surprised  the  natives,  that  they  ex- 
changed the  best  of  their  otter  skins  for  it. 
The  young  man  was  now  very  anxious  to  per- 
suade our  people  to  depart,  as  the  natives,  he 
280 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

said,  were  as  numerous  as  musquitoes,  and 
of  very  malignant  character.  This  informa- 
tion produced  some  very  earnest  remon- 
strances to  me  to  hasten  our  departure,  but 
as  I  was  determined  not  to  leave  this  place, 
except  I  was  absolutely  compelled  to  it,  till 
I  had  ascertained  its  situation,  these  solicita- 
tions were  not  repeated. 

While  I  was  taking  a  meridian,  two  canoes, 
of  a  larger  size,  and  well  manned,  appeared 
from  the  main  South- West  channel.  They 
seemed  to  be  the  fore-runners  of  others,  who 
were  coming  to  co-operate  with  the  people  of 
the  village,  in  consequence  of  the  message  sent 
by  the  two  boys,  which  has  been  already  men- 
tioned; and  our  young  Indian,  who  under- 
stood them,  renewed  his  entreaties  for  our  de- 
parture, as  they  would  soon  come  to  shoot 
their  arrows,  and  hurl  their  spears  at  us.  In 
relating  our  danger,  his  agitation  was  so  vio- 
lent, that  he  foamed  at  the  mouth.  Though 
I  was  not  altogether  free  from  apprehensions 
on  the  occasion,  it  was  necessary  for  me  to 
disguise  them,  as  my  people  were  panic- 
struck,  and  some  of  them  asked  if  it  was  my 
determination  to  remain  there  to  be  sacrificed? 
My  reply  was  the  same  as  their  former  im- 
portunities had  received,  that  I  would  not 
stir  till  I  had  accomplished  my  object;  at 
the  same  time,  to  humour  their  fears,  I  con- 
sented that  they  should  put  everything  into 
281 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

the  canoe,  that  we  might  be  in  a  state  of 
preparation  to  depart.  The  two  canoes  now 
approached  the  shore,  and  in  a  short  time, 
five  men,  with  their  families,  landed  very 
quietly  from  them.  My  instruments  being 
exposed,  they  examined  them  with  much  ap- 
parent admiration  and  astonishment.  My 
altitude,  by  an  artificial  horizon,  gave  52° 
21'  33" ;  that  by  the  natural  horizon  was  52'^ 
20'  48"  North  latitude.* 

These  Indians  were  of  a  different  tribe 
from  those  which  I  had  already  seen,  as  our 
guide  did  not  understand  their  language.  I 
now  mixed  up  some  vermillion  in  melted 
grease,  and  inscribed,  in  large  characters,  on 
the  South-East  face  of  the  rock  on  which  we 
had  slept  last  night,  this  brief  memorial^ 
"Alexander  Mackenzie,  from  Canada,  by 
land,  the  twenty-second  of  July,  one  thou- 
sand seven  hundred  and  ninety-three." 

As  I  thought  that  we  were  too  near  the  vil- 
lage, I  consented  to  leave  this  place,  and  ac- 
cordingly proceeded  North-East  three  miles, 
when  we  landed  on  a  point,  in  a  small  cove, 
where  we  should  not  be  readily  seen,  and 
could  not  be  attacked  except  in  our  front. 

Among  other  articles  that  had  been  stolen 
from  us,  at  our  last  station,  was  a  sounding- 


*  This  I  found  to  be  the  cheek  of  Vancouver's 
Cascade  Canal. 

282 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OP  AMERICA. 

line,  which  I  intended  to  have  employed  in 
this  bay,  though  I  should  not  probably  have 
found  the  bottom,  at  any  distance  from  the 
shore,  as  the  appearance  both  of  the  water 
and  land  indicated  a  great  depth.  The  latter 
displayed  a  solid  rock,  rising  as  it  appeared 
to  me,  from  three  to  seven  hundred  feet  above 
high  water  mark.  Where  any  soil  was  scat- 
tered about,  there  were  cedars,  spruce-firs, 
white  birch,  and  other  trees  of  large  growth. 
From  its  precipices  issued  streams  of  fine 
water,  as  cold  as  ice. 

The  two  canoes  which  we  had  left  at  our 
last  station,  followed  us  hither,  and  when  they 
were  preparing  to  depart,  our  young  chief 
embarked  with  them.  I  was  determined, 
however,  to  prevent  his  escape,  and  com- 
pelled him,  by  actual  force,  to  come  on  shore, 
for  I  thought  it  much  better  to  incur  his  dis- 
pleasure than  to  suffer  him  to  expose  himself 
to  any  untoward  accident  among  strangers, 
or  to  return  to  his  father  before  us.  The 
men  in  the  canoe  made  signs  for  him  to  go 
over  the  hill,  and  that  they  would  take  him 
on  board  at  the  other  side  of  it.  As  I  was 
necessarily  engaged  in  other  matters,  I  de- 
sired my  people  to  take  care  that  he  should 
not  run  away ;  but  they  peremptorily  refused 
to  be  employed  in  keeping  him  against  his 
will.  I  was,  therefore,  reduced  to  the  neces- 
sity of  watching  him  myself. 
283 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

I  took  five  altitudes,  and  the  mean  of  them 
was  29.  23.  48,  at  3.  5.  53.  in  the  after- 
noon, by  the  watch,  which  makes  it  slow  ap- 
parent time. 

1^  22°^  38^ 
In  the  forenoon)  ^    ^1    44  2     44     22 

it  was  ) 


Mean  of  both 
le  hours  go- 
ing of  the  time-piece  slow 


Difference  of  nine  hours  go-  ) 


1     22 

11 
8 

1     22 

19 

I  observed  an  emersion  of  Jupiter's  third 
satellite,  which  gave  8°  32'  21.  difference  of 
longitude.  I  then  observed  an  emersion  of 
Jupiter's  first  satellite,  which  gave  8°  31'  48. 
The  mean  of  these  observations  is  8°  32'  2. 
which  is  equal  to  128.  2.  West  of  Green- 
wich. 

I  had  now  determined  my  situation,  which 
is  the  most  fortunate  circumstance  of  my 
long,  painful,  and  perilous  journey,  as  a  few 
cloudy  days  would  have  prevented  me  from 
ascertaining  the  final  longitude  of  it.* 

*  Mr,  Meares  was  undoubtedly  wrong  in  the  idea, 
so  earnestly  insisted  on  by  him,  in  his  voyage,  that 
there  was  a  North- West  practicable  passage  to  the 
Southward  of  sixty-nine  degrees  and  an  half  of  lati- 
tude, as  I  flatter  myself  has  been  proved  by  my 
former  voyage.  Nor  can  I  refrain  from  expressing 
my  surprise  at  his  assertion,  that  there  was  an  inland 
sea  or  archipelago  of  great  extent  between  the 
284 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

At  twelve  it  was  high  water,  but  the  tide 
did  not  come  within  a  foot  and  an  half  of  lihe 
high  water  mark  of  last  night.  As  soon  as  I 
had  completed  my  observations,  we  left  this 
place :  it  was  then  ten  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon. We  returned  the  same  way  that  we 
came,  and  though  the  tide  was  running  out 
very  strong,  by  keeping  close  in  with  the 
rocks,  we  proceeded  at  a  considerable  rate,  as 
my  people  were  very  anxious  to  get  out  of 
the  reach  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  coast. 

Tuesday,  23. — During  our  course  we  saw 
several  fires  on  the  land  to  the  Southward, 
and  after  the  day  dawned,  their  smokes  were 
visible.  At  half  past  four  this  morning  we 
arrived  at  our  encampment  of  the  night  of 
the  21st,  which  had  been  named  Porcupine 
Cove.  The  tide  was  out,  and  considerably 
lower  than  we  found  it  when  we  were  here 
before ;  the  high-water  mark  being  above  the 
place  where  we  had  made  our  fire.  This 
fluctuation  must  be  occasioned  by  the  action 
of  the  wind  upon  the  water,  in  those  narrow 
channels. 

islands  of  Nootka  and  the  main,  about  the  latitude 
where  I  was  at  this  time.  Indeed  I  have  been  in- 
formed that  Captain  Grey,  who  commanded  an 
American  vessel,  and  on  whose  authority  he  ven- 
tured this  opinion,  denies  that  he  had  given  Mr. 
Meares  any  such  information.  Besides,  the  contrary 
is  indubitably  proved  by  Captain  Vancouver's  sur- 
vey, from  which  no  appeal  can  be  made. 
285 


:journal  of  a  voyage  through  the 

As  we  continued  onwards,  towards  the 
river,  we  saw  a  canoe,  well  manned,  which 
at  first  made  from  us  with  great  expedition, 
but  afterwards  waited,  as  if  to  reconnoitre 
us ;  however,  it  kept  out  of  our  way,  and  al- 
lowed us  to  pass.  The  tide  being  much 
lower  than  when  we  were  here  before,  we 
were  under  the  necessity  of  landing  a  mile 
below  the  village.  We  observed  that  stakes 
were  fixed  in  the  ground  along  the  bay,  and 
in  some  places  machines  were  fastened  to 
them,  as  I  afterwards  learned,  to  intercept 
the  seals  and  otters.  These  works  are  very 
extensive,  and  must  have  been  erected  with 
no  common  labour.  The  only  bird  we  saw 
to-day  was  the  white  headed  eagle.* 

Our  guide  directed  us  to  draw  the  canoe 
out  of  the  reach  of  the  tide  and  to  leave  it. 
He  would  not  wait,  however,  till  this  opera- 
tion was  performed,  and  I  did  not  wish  to  let 
him  go  alone.  I  therefore  followed  him 
through  a  bad  road  encumbered  with  under- 
wood. When  we  had  quitted  the  wood,  and 
were  in  sight  of  the  houses,  the  young  man 
being  about  fifteen  or  twenty  paces  before 
me,  I  was  surprised  to  see  two  men  running 
down  towards  me  from  one  of  the  houses, 
with  daggers  in  their  hands  and  fury  in  their 
aspect.  From  their  hostile  appearance,  I 
could  not  doubt  of  their  purpose.     I  there- 

*Tliis  bay  was  now  named  Mackeznie's  Outlet. 
286 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

fore  stopped  short,  threw  down  ray  cloak, 
and  put  myself  in  a  posture  of  defence,  with 
my  gun  presented  towards  them.  Fortu- 
nately for  me,  they  knew  the  effect  of  fire- 
arms, and  instantly  dropped  their  daggers, 
which  were  fastened  by  a  string  to  their 
wrists,  and  had  before  been  held  in  a  menac- 
ing attitude.  I  let  my  gun  also  fall  into  my 
left  hand,  and  drew  my  hanger.  Several 
others  soon  joined  them,  who  were  armed  in 
the  same  manner ;  and  among  them  I  recog- 
nised the  man  whom  I  have  already  men- 
tioned as  being  so  troublesome  to  us,  and 
who  now  repeated  the  names  of  Macuba  and 
Benzins,  signifying  at  the  same  time  by  his 
action,  as  on  a  former  occasion,  that  he  had 
been  shot  at  by  them.  Until  I  saw  him  my 
mind  was  undisturbed;  but  the  moment  he 
appeared,  conceiving  that  he  was  the  cause 
of  my  present  perilous  situation,  my  resent- 
ment predominated,  and  if  he  had  come 
within  my  reach,  I  verily  believe,  that  I 
should  have  terminated  his  insolence  forever. 
The  rest  now  approached  so  near,  that  one 
of  them  contrived  to  get  behind  me,  and 
grasped  me  in  his  arms.  I  soon  disengaged 
myself  from  him ;  and,  that  he  did  not  avail 
himself  of  the  opportunity  which  he  had  of 
plunging  his  dagger  into  me,  I  cannot  conjec- 
ture. They  certainly  might  have  overpowered 
ine,  and  though  I  should  probably  have  killed 
287 


JOURNAL   OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

one  or  two  of  them,  I  must  have  fallen  at 
last. 

One  of  my  people  now  came  out  of  the 
wood.  On  his  appearance  they  mstantly  took 
to  flight,  and  with  the  utmost  speed  sought 
shelter  in  the  houses  from  whence  they  had 
issued.  It  was,  however,  upwards  of  ten 
minutes  before  all  my  people  joined  me ;  and 
as  they  came  one  after  the  other,  these  people 
might  have  successively  dispatched  every  one 
of  us.  If  they  had  killed  me,  in  the  first  in- 
stance, this  consequence  would  certainly  have 
followed,  and  not  one  of  us  would  have  re- 
turned home  to  tell  the  horrid  fate  of  his 
companions. 

After  having  stated  the  danger  I  had  en- 
countered, I  told  my  people  that  I  was  deter- 
mined to  make  these  natives  feel  the  impro- 
priety of  their  conduct  toward  us,  and  com- 
pel them  to  return  my  hat  and  cloak  which 
they  had  taken  in  the  scuffle,  as  well  as  the 
articles  previously  purloined  from  us,  for 
most  of  the  men  who  were  in  the  three  canoes 
that  we  first  saw,  were  now  in  the  village.  I 
therefore  told  my  men  to  prime  their  pieces 
afresh,  and  prepare  themselves  for  an  active 
use  of  them,  if  the  occasion  should  require  it. 

We  now  drew  up  before  the  house,  and 

made  signs  for  some  one  to  come  down  to  us. 

At  length  our  j^oung  chief  appeared,  and  told 

us  that  the  men  belonging  to  the  canoes  had 

288 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

not  only  informed  his  friends,  that  we  had 
treated  him  very  ill,  but  that  we  had  killed 
four  of  their  companions  whom  he  had  met  in 
the  bay.  When  I  had  explained  to  them  as 
well  as  it  was  in  my  power,  the  falsehood  of 
such  a  story,  I  insisted  on  the  restoration  of 
everything  that  had  been  taken  from  us,  as 
well  as  a  necessary  supply  of  fish,  as  the 
conditions  of  my  departure ;  accordingly  the 
things  were  restored,  and  a  few  dried  fish 
along  with  them.  A  reconciliation  now  took 
place,  but  our  guide  or  young  chief  was  so 
much  terrified  that  he  would  remain  no  longer 
with  us,  and  requested  us  to  follow  with  his 
father's  canoe,  or  mischief  would  follow.  I 
determined,  however,  before  my  departure, 
to  take  an  observation,  and  at  noon  got  a 
meridian  altitude,  making  this  place,  which 
I  named  Rascal's  Village,  52.  23.  43.  North 
latitude. 

On  my  informing  the  natives  that  we 
wanted  something  more  to  eat,  they  brought 
us  two  salmon ;  and  when  we  signified  that 
we  had  no  poles  to  set  the  canoe  against  the 
current,  they  were  furnished  with  equal  alac- 
rity, so  anxious  were  they  for  our  departure. 
I  paid,  however,  for  everything  which  we 
had  received,  and  did  not  forget  the  loan  of 
the  canoe. 


Vol.  II.— 19  289 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 


CHAPTER   XI. 

JULY,  1793. 

The  current  of  the  river  was  so  strong,  that 
I  should  have  complied  with  the  wishes  of 
my  people,  and  gone  by  land,  but  one  of  my 
Indians  was  so  weak,  that  it  was  impossible 
for  him  to  perform  the  journey.  He  had 
been  ill  some  time ;  and,  indeed,  we  had  been 
all  of  us  more  or  less  afflicted  with  colds  on 
the  sea  coast.  Four  of  the  people  therefore 
set  off  with  the  canoe,  and  it  employed  them 
an  hour  to  get  half  a  mile.  In  the  mean 
time  the  native,  who  has  been  already  men- 
tioned as  having  treated  us  with  so  much  in- 
solence, and  four  of  his  companions,  went  up 
the  river  in  a  canoe,  which  they  had  above 
the  rapid,  with  as  many  boxes  as  men  in  her. 
This  circumstance  was  the  cause  of  fresh 
aJarm,  as  it  was  generally  concluded  that  they 
would  produce  the  same  mischief  and  danger 
in  the  villages  above,  as  they  had  in  that  be- 
low. Nor  was  it  forgotten  that  the  young 
chief  had  left  us  in  a  manner  which  would 
not  be  interpreted  in  our  favour  by  his  father 
and  friends. 

At  length  the  canoe  arrived,  and  the  peo- 
ple declared  in  the  most  unreserved  terms, 
290 


NORTH- WEvST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

that  they  would  proceed  no  further  in  her ; 
but  when  they  were  made  acquainted  with 
the  circumstances  which  have  just  been  de- 
scribed, their  violence  increased,  and  the 
greater  part  of  the  men  announced  their  de- 
termination to  attempt  the  mountains,  and 
endeavour,  by  passing  over  them,  to  gain  the 
road  by  which  we  came  to  the  first  village. 
So  resolved  were  they  to  pursue  this  plan, 
that  they  threw  everything  which  they  had 
into  the  river,  except  their  blankets.  I  was 
all  this  time  sitting  patiently  on  a  stone,  and 
indulging  the  hope  that,  when  their  frantic 
terror  had  subsided,  their  returning  reason 
would  have  disposed  them  to  perceive  the 
rashness  of  their  project;  but  when  I  ob- 
served that  they  persisted  in  it,  I  no  longer 
remained  a  silent  listener  to  their  passionate 
declarations,  but  proceeded  to  employ  such 
arguments  as  I  trusted  would  turn  them  from 
their  senseless  and  impracticable  purpose. 
After  reproving  my  young  Indian  in  very 
severe  terms,  for  encouraging  the  rest  to  fol- 
low their  mad  design  of  passing  the  moun- 
tains, I  addressed  myself  generally  to  them, 
stating  the  difficulty  of  ascending  the  moun- 
tains, the  eternal  snows  with  which  they  were 
covered,  our  small  stock  of  provisions,  which 
two  days  would  exhaust,  and  the  consequent 
probability  that  we  should  perish  with  cold 
and  hunger.  I  urged  the  folly  of  being  af- 
291 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

fected  by  the  alarm  of  danger  which  might 
not  exist,  and  if  it  did,  I  encouraged  them 
with  the  means  we  possessed  of  surmounting 
it.  Nor  did  I  forget  to  urge  the  inhumanity 
and  injustice  of  leaving  the  poor  sick  Indian 
to  languish  and  die.  I  also  added,  that  as 
my  particular  object  had  been  accomplished, 
I  had  now  no  other  but  our  common  safety ; 
that  the  sole  wish  of  my  heart  was  to  employ 
the  best  means  in  my  power,  and  to  pursue 
the  best  method  which  my  understanding 
could  suggest,  to  secure  them  and  myself 
from  every  danger  that  might  impede  our 
return. 

My  steersman,  who  had  been  with  me  for 
five  years  in  that  capacity,  instantly  replied 
that  he  was  ready  to  follow  me  wherever  I 
should  go,  but  that  he  would  never  again 
enter  that  canoe,  as  he  had  solemnly  sworn 
he  would  not,  while  he  was  in  the  rapid. 
His  example  was  followed  by  all  the  rest, 
except  two,  who  embarked  with  Mr.  Mackay,* 
myself,  and  the  sick  Indian.  The  current, 
however,  was  so  strong,  that  we  dragged  up 
the  greatest  part  of  the  way,  by  the  branches 
of  trees.  Our  progress,  as  may  be  imagined, 
was  very  tedious,  and  attended  with  uncom- 
mon labour;   the  party  who  went  by  land 

*  It  is  but  common  justice  to  him,  to  mention  in 
this  place  that  I  had  every  reason  to  be  satisfied 
with  his  conduct. 

292 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

being  continually  obliged  to  wait  for  us.  Mr. 
Mackay's  gun  was  carried  out  of  the  canoe 
and  lost,  at  a  time  when  we  appeared  to 
stand  in  very  great  need  of  it,  as  two  canoes, 
with,  sixteen  or  eighteen  men,  were  coming 
down  the  stream;  and  the  apprehensions 
which  they  occasioned  did  not  subside  till 
they  shot  by  us  with  great  rapidity. 

At  length  we  came  in  sight  of  the  house, 
when  we  saw  our  young  Indian  with  six 
others,  in  a  canoe  coming  to  meet  us.  This 
was  a  very  encouraging  circumstance,  as  it 
satisfied  us  that  the  natives  who  had  preceded, 
and  whose  malignant  designs  we  had  every 
reason  to  suspect,  had  not  been  able  to  preju- 
dice the  people  against  us.  We,  therefore, 
landed  at  the  house,  where  we  were  re- 
ceived in  a  friendly  manner,  and  having 
procured  some  fish,  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey. 

It  was  almost  dark  when  we  arrived  at  the 
next  house,  and  the  first  persons  who  pre- 
sented themselves  to  our  observation  were  the 
turbulent  Indian  and  his  four  companions. 
They  were  not  very  agreeable  objects;  but 
we  were  nevertheless  well  received  by  the  in- 
habitants, who  presented  us  with  fish  and 
berries.  The  Indians  who  had  caused  us  so 
much  alarm,  we  now  discovered  to  be  inhabi- 
tants of  the  islands,  and  traders  in  various 
articles,  such  as  cedar-bark,  prepared  to  be 
293 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

wove  into  mats,  fish-spawn,  copper,  iron, 
and  beads,  the  latter  of  which  they  get  on 
their  own  coast.  For  these  they  receive  in 
exchange  roasted  salmon,  hemlock  bark  cakes, 
and  the  other  kind  made  of  salmon  roes,  sor- 
rel, and  bitter  berries.  Having  procured  as 
much  fish  as  would  serve  us  for  our  supper, 
and  the  meals  of  the  next  day,  all  my  people 
went  to  rest  except  one,  with  whom  I  kept 
the  first  watch. 

Wednesday,  24.  After  twelve  last  night, 
I  called  up  Mr.  Mackay,  and  one  of  the  men, 
to  relieve  ns,  but  as  a  general  tranquillity 
appeared  to  prevail  in  the  place,  I  recom- 
mended them  to  return  to  their  rest.  I  was 
the  first  awake  in  the  morning,  and  sent  Mr. 
Mackay  to  see  if  our  canoe  remained  where 
we  left  it ;  but  he  returned  to  inform  me  that 
the  Islajiders  had  loaded  it  with  their  articles 
of  traffic,  and  were  ready  to  depart.  On  this 
intelligence  I  hurried  to  the  water  side,  and 
seizing  the  canoe  by  the  stem,  I  should  cer- 
tainly have  overset  it,  and  turned  the  three 
men  that  were  in  it,  Avith  all  their  merchan- 
dise, into  the  river,  had  not  one  of  the  people 
of  the  house,  who  had  been  very  kind  to  us, 
informed  me,  that  this  was  their  own  canoe, 
and  that  my  guide  had  gone  off  with  ours. 
At  the  same  moment  the  other  two  Indians 
who  belonged  to  the  party,  jumped  nimbly 
into  it,  and  pushed  off  with  all  the  haste  and 
294 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

hurry  that  their  fears  may  be  supposed  to 
dictate. 

We  now  found  ourselves  once  more  with- 
out a  guide  or  a  canoe.  We  were,  however, 
so  fortunate  as  to  engage,  without  much  diffi- 
culty, two  of  these  people  to  accompany  us ; 
as,  from  the  strength  of  the  current,  it  would 
not  have  been  possible  for  us  to  have  pro- 
ceeded by  water  without  their  assistance. 
As  the  house  was  upon  an  island,  we  ferried 
over  the  pedestrian  party  to  the  main  bank  of 
the  river  and  continued  our  course  till  our 
conductors  came  to  their  fishing  ground,  when 
they  proposed  to  land  us,  and  our  small  por- 
tion of  baggage ;  but  as  our  companions  were 
on  the  opposite  shore,  we  could  not  acquiesce, 
and  after  some  time  persuaded  them  to  pro- 
ceed further  with  us.  Soon  after  we  met  the 
chief  who  had  regaled  us  in  our  voyage  down 
the  river.  He  was  seining  between  two  ca- 
noes, and  had  taken  a  considerable  quantity 
of  salmon.  He  took  us  on  board  with  him, 
and  proceeded  upwards  with  great  expedition. 
These  people  are  surprisingly  skilful  and  ac- 
tive in  setting  against  a  strong  current.  In 
the  roughest  part  they  almost  filled  the  canoe 
with  water,  by  way  of  a  sportive  alarm  to  us. 

We  landed  at  the  house  of  the  chief,  and 

he  immediately  placed  a  fish  before  me.     Our 

people  now  appeared  on  the  opposite  bank, 

when  a  canoe  was  sent  fo^  them.     As  soon  as 

295 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

they  had  made  their  meal  of  fish,  they  pro- 
ceeded on  their  route,  and  we  followed  them ; 
the  chief  and  one  of  the  natives  having  un- 
dertaken to  conduct  us. 

At  five  in  the  afternoon  we  came  to  two 
houses,  which  we  had  not  seen  in  going  down. 
They  were  upon  an  island,  and  I  was  obliged 
to  send  for  the  walking  party,  as  our  conduc- 
tors, from  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  refused 
to  proceed  any  further  with  us  till  the  next 
day.  One  of  our  men,  being  at  a  small  dis- 
tance before  the  others,  had  been  attacked  by 
a  female  bear  with  two  cubs,  but  another  of 
them  arrived  to  his  rescue,  and  shot  her. 
Their  fears  probably  prevented  them  from 
killing  the  two  young  ones.  They  brought 
a  part  of  the  meat,  but  it  was  very  indiffer- 
ent. We  were  informed  that  our  former 
guide,  or  young  chief,  had  passed  this  place, 
at  a  very  early  hour  of  the  morning,  on 
foot. 

These  people  take  plenty  of  another  fish, 
besides  salmon,  which  weigh  from  fifteen  to 
forty  pounds.  This  fish  is  broader  than  the 
salmon,  of  a  greyish  colour,  and  with  a  hunch 
on  its  back :  the  flesh  is  white,  but  neither  rich 
nor  well  flavoured.  Its  jaw  and  teeth  are 
like  those  of  a  dog,  and  the  latter  are  larger 
and  stronger  than  any  I  had  ever  seen  in  a 
fish  of  equal  size :  those  in  front  bend  in- 
wards, like  the  claws  of  a  bird  of  prey.  It 
296 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

delights  in  shallow  water,  and  its  native  name 
is  Dilly. 

We  received  as  many  fish  and  berries  from 
these  people  as  completely  satisfied  our  appe- 
tites. The  latter  excelled  any  of  the  kind 
that  we  had  seen.  I  saw  also,  three  kinds 
of  gooseberries,  which,  as  we  passed  through 
the  woods,  we  found  in  great  abundance. 

Thursday,  25.  — I  arose  before  the  sun,  and 
the  weather  was  very  fine.  The  men  who 
were  to  accompany  us  went  to  visit  their  ma- 
chines, and  brought  back  plenty  of  fish, 
which  they  strung  on  a  rope,  and  left  them 
in  the  river.  We  now  embarked  thirteen  in  a 
canoe,  and  landed  my  men  on  the  South  bank, 
as  it  would  have  been  impracticable  to  have 
stemmed  the  tide  with  such  a  load.  The 
underwood  was  so  thick  that  it  was  with 
great  difficulty  they  could  pass  through  it. 
At  nine  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  wait- 
ing to  ferry  them  over  a  river  from  the  South, 
which  is  not  fordable.  After  some  time  we 
came  to  two  deserted  houses,  at  the  foot  of 
a  rapid,  beyond  which  our  boatmen  absolutely 
refused  to  conduct  us  by  water.  Here  was  a 
road  which  led  opposite  to  the  village.  We 
had,  however,  the  curiosity  to  visit  the  houses, 
which  were  erected  upon  posts,  and  we  suf- 
fered very  severely  for  the  indulgence  of  it; 
for  the  floors  were  covered  with  fleas,  and  we 
were  immediately  y^  the  same  condition,  for 
297 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

which  we  had  no  remedy  but  to  take  to  the 
water.  There  was  not  a  spot  round  the 
houses  free  from  grass,  that  was  not  alive, 
as  it  were,  with  this  vermin. 

Our  guides  proposed  to  conduct  us  on  our 
way,  and  we  followed  them  on  a  well-beaten 
track.  They,  however,  went  so  fast,  that  we 
could  not  all  of  us  keep  up  with  them,  par- 
ticularly our  sick  Indian,  whose  situation  was 
very  embarrassing  to  us,  and  at  length  they 
contrived  to  escape.  I  very  much  wished  for 
these  men  to  have  accompanied  us  to  the  vil- 
lage, in  order  to  do  away  any  ill  impressions 
which  might  have  arisen  from  the  young 
chief's  report  to  his  father,  which  we  were 
naturally  led  to  expect  would  not  be  in  our 
favour. 

This  road  conducted  us  through  the  finest 
wood  of  cedar  trees  that  I  had  ever  seen.  I 
measured  several  of  them  that  were  twenty- 
four  feet  in  the  girth,  and  of  a  proportionate 
height.  The  alder  trees  are  also  of  an  un- 
common size ;  several  of  them  were  seven  feet 
and  an  half  in  circumference,  and  rose  to 
forty  feet  without  a  branch ;  but  my  men  de- 
clared that  they  had,  in  their  progress,  seen 
much  larger  of  both  kinds.  The  other  wood 
was  hemlock,  white  birch,  two  species  of 
spruce-firs,  willows,  &c.  Many  of  the  large 
cedars  appeared  to  have  been  examined,  as  I 
suppose  by  the  natives,  for  the  purpose  of 
298 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

making  canoes,  but  finding  them  hollow  at 
heart,  they  were  suffered  to  stand.  There 
was  but  little  underwood,  and  the  soil  was  a 
black  rich  mould,  which  would  well  reward 
the  trouble  of  cultivation.  From  the  remains 
of  bones  on  certain  spots,  it  is  probable  that 
the  natives  may  have  occasionally  burned 
their  dead  in  this  wood. 

As  it  was  uncertain  what  our  reception 
might  be  at  the  village,  I  examined  every 
man's  arms  and  ammunition,  and  gave  Mr. 
Mackay,  who  had  unfortunately  lost  his  gun, 
one  of  my  pistols.  Our  late  conductors  had 
informed  us  that  the  man  whom  we  left  in  a 
dying  state,  and  to  whom  I  had  administered 
some  Turlington's  balsam,  was  dead;  audit 
was  by  no  means  improbable  that  I  might  be 
suspected  of  hastening  his  end. 

At  one  in  the  afteriioon  we  came  to  the 
bank  of  the  river,  which  was  opposite  to  the 
village,  which  appeared  to  be  in  a  state  of 
perfect  tranquillity.  Several  of  the  natives 
were  fishing  above  and  below  the  weir,  and 
they  very  readily  took  us  over  in  their  canoes. 
The  people  now  hurried  down  to  the  water 
side,  but  I  perceived  none  of  the  chief's  fami- 
ly among  them.  They  made  signs  to  me  to 
go  to  his  house ;  I  signified  to  them  not  to 
crowd  about  us,  and  indeed  drew  a  line,  be- 
yond which  I  made  them  understand  they 
must  not  pass.  I  now  directed  Mr.  Mackay, 
299 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

axid  the  men  to  remain  there,  with  their  arms 
in  readiness,  and  to  keep  the  natives  at  a  dis- 
tance, as  I  was  determined  to  go  alone  to  the 
chief's  house;  and  if  they  should  hear  the 
report  of  my  pistols,  they  were  ordered  to 
make  the  best  of  their  way  from  these  people, 
as  it  would  then  be  equally  fruitless  and  dan- 
gerous to  attempt  the  giving  me  any  assist- 
ance, as  it  would  be  only  in  the  last  extremi- 
ty, and  when  I  was  certain  of  their  intention 
to  destroy  me,  that  I  should  discharge  my 
pistols.  My  gun  I  gave  to  Mr.  Mackay, 
when,  with  my  loaded  pistols  in  my  belt,  and 
a  poignard  in  my  hand,  I  proceeded  to  the 
abode  of  the  chief.  I  had  a  wood  to  pass  in 
my  way  thither,  which  was  intersected  by 
various  paths  and  I  took  one  that  led  to  the 
back,  instead  of  the  front  of  the  house ;  and 
as  the  whole  had  been  very  much  altered  since 
I  was  here  before,  I  concluded  that  I  had 
lost  my  way.  But  I  continued  to  proceed, 
and  soon  met  with  the  chief's  wife,  who  in- 
formed me,  that  he  was  at  the  next  house. 
On  my  going  round  it,  I  perceived  that  they 
had  thrown  open  the  gable  ends,  and  added 
two  wings,  nearly  as  long  as  the  body,  both 
of  which  were  hung  round  with  sabnon  as 
close  as  they  could  be  placed.  As  I  could 
discover  none  of  the  men,  I  sat  down  upon  a 
large  stone  near  some  women  who  were  sup- 
ping on  salmon  roes  and  berries.  They  in- 
300 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

vited  me  to  partake  of  their  fare,  and  I  was 
about  to  accept  their  invitation  when  Mr. 
Mackay  joined  me,  as  both  himself  and  all 
my  party  were  alarmed  at  my  being  alone. 
Nor  was  his  alarm  lessened  by  an  old  man 
whom  he  met  in  the  wood,  and  who  made  use 
of  signs  to  persuade  him  to  return.  As  he 
came  without  his  gun,  I  gave  him  one  of  my 
pistols.  When  I  saw  the  women  continue 
their  employment  without  paying  the  least 
attention  to  us,  I  could  not  imagine  that  any 
hostile  design  was  preparing  against  us. 
Though  the  non-appearance  of  the  men  awak- 
ened some  degree  of  suspicion  that  I  should 
not  be  received  with  the  same  welcome  as  on 
my  former  visit.  At  length  the  chief  ap- 
peared, and  his  son,  who  had  been  our  guide, 
following  him;  displeasure  was  painted  in 
the  old  man's  countenance,  and  he  held  in 
his  hand  ahead  tobacco  pouch  which  belonged 
to  Mr.  Mackay,  and  the  young  chief  had  pur- 
loined from  him.  When  he  had  approached 
within  three  or  four  yards  of  me,  he  threw 
it  at  me  with  great  indignation,  and  walked 
away.  I  followed  him,  however,  until  he 
had  passed  his  son,  whom  I  took  by  the 
hand,  but  he  did  not  make  any  very  cordial 
return  to  my  salutation;  at  the  same  time 
he  made  signs  for  me  to  discharge  my 
pistol,  and  give  him  my  hanger  which  Mr. 
Mackay  had  brought  me,  but  I  did  not 
301 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

pay   the   least   attention    to    either    of    his 
demands. 

We  now  joined  the  chief,  who  explained  to 
me  that  he  was  in  a  state  of  deep  distress  for 
the  loss  of  his  son,  and  made  me  understand 
that  he  had  cut  off  his  hair  and  blackened  his 
face  on  the  melancholy  occasion.  He  also 
represented  the  alarm  which  he  had  suffered 
respecting  his  son  who  had  accompanied  us ; 
as  he  apprehended  we  had  killed  him,  or  had 
all  of  us  perished  together.  AVhen  he  had 
finished  his  narrative,  I  took  him  and  his  son 
by  their  hands,  and  requested  them  to  come 
with  me  to  the  place  where  I  had  left  my 
people,  who  were  rejoiced  to  see  us  return, 
having  been  in  a  state  of  great  anxiety  from 
our  long  absence.  I  immediately  remuner- 
ated the  young  chief  for  his  company  and 
assistance  in  our  voyage  to  the  sea,  as  well 
as  his  father,  for  his  former  attentions.  I 
gave  them  cloth  and  knives,  and,  indeed,  a 
portion  of  everything  which  now  remained  to 
us.  The  presents  had  the  desired  effect  of 
restoring  us  to  their  favour ;  but  these  people 
are  of  so  changeable  a  nature,  that  there  is 
no  security  with  them.  I  procured  three 
robes  and  two  otter-skins,  and  if  I  could 
have  given  such  articles  in  exchange  as  they 
preferred,  I  should  probably  have  obtained 
more.  I  now  represented  the  length  of  the 
way  which  I  had  to  go,  and  requested  some 
302 


NORTH-WEST   CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

fish  to  support  lis  on  our  journey,  when  he 
desired  us  to  follow  him  to  the  house,  where 
mats  were  immediately  arranged  and  a  fish 
placed  before  each  of  us. 

We  were  now  informed,  that  our  dog, 
whom  we  had  lost,  had  been  howling  about 
the  village  ever  since  we  left  it,  and  that  they 
had  reason  to  believe  he  left  the  woods  at 
night  to  eat  the  fish  he  could  find  about  the 
houses.  I  immediately  dispatched  Mr.  Mac- 
kay,  and  a  man,  in  search  of  the  animal,  but 
they  returned  without  him. 

When  I  manifested  my  intention  to  pro- 
ceed on  my  journey,  the  chief  voluntarily 
sent  for  ten  roasted  salmon,  and  having  at- 
tended us  with  his  son,  and  a  great  number 
of  his  people,  to  the  last  house  in  the  village, 
we  took  our  leave.  It  was  then  half  past 
three  in  the  afternoon. 

I  directed  Mr.  Mackay  to  take  the  lead, 
and  the  others  to  follow  him  in  Indian  files, 
at  a  long  and  steady  pace,  as  I  determined  to 
bring  up  the  rear.  I  adopted  this  measure 
from  a  confusion  that  was  observable  among 
the  natives  which  I  did  not  comprehend.  I 
was  not  without  my  suspicions  that  some 
mischief  was  in  agitation,  and  they  were  in- 
creased from  the  confused  noise  we  heard  in 
the  village.  At  the  same  time  a  considerable 
number  came  running  after  us ;  some  of  them 
making  signs  for  us  to  stop,  and  others  rush- 
303 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

ing  by  me.  I  perceived  also,  that  those  who 
followed  us  were  the  strangers  who  live 
among  these  people,  and  are  kept  by  them 
in  a  state  of  awe  and  subjection ;  and  one  of 
them  made  signs  to  me  that  we  were  taking 
a  wrong  road.  I  immediately  called  out  to 
Mr.  Mackay  to  stop.  This  was  naturally 
enough  taken  for  an  alarm,  and  threw  my 
people  into  great  disorder.  When,  however, 
I  was  understood,  and  we  had  mustered 
again,  our  Indian  informed  us,  that  the  noise 
we  heard  was  occasioned  by  a  debate  among 
the  natives,  whether  they  should  stop  us  or 
not.  When,  therefore,  we  had  got  into  the 
Tight  road,  I  made  such  arrangements  as 
might  be  necessary  for  our  defence,  if  we 
should  have  an  experimental  proof  that  our 
late  and  fickle  friends  were  converted  into 
enemies. 

Our  way  was  through  a  forest  of  stately 
cedars,  beneath  a  range  of  lofty  hills,  covered 
with  rocks,  and  without  any  view  of  the  river. 
The  path  was  well  beaten,  but  rendered  in- 
commodious by  the  large  stones  which  lay 
along  it. 

As  we  were  continuing  our  route,  we  all 
felt  the  sensation  of  having  found  a  lost 
friend  at  the  sight  of  our  dog;  but  he  ap- 
peared, in  a  great  degree,  to  have  lost  his 
former  sagacity.  He  ran  in  a  wild  way  back- 
wards and  forwards ;  and  though  he  kept  our 
304 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

road,  I  could  not  induce  him  to  acknowledge 
his  master.  Sometimes  he  seemed  disposed 
to  approach  as  if  he  knew  us ;  and  then,  on  a 
sudden,  he  would  turn  away,  as  if  alarmed 
at  our  appearance.  The  poor  animal  was  re- 
duced almost  to  a  skeleton,  and  we  occasion- 
ally dropped  something  to  support  him,  and 
by  degrees  he  recovered  his  former  sagacity. 

When  the  night  came  on  we  stopped  at  a 
small  distance  from  the  river,  but  did  not 
venture  to  make  a  fire.  Every  man  took  his 
tree,  and  laid  down  in  his  clothes,  and  with 
his  arms,  beneath  the  shade  of  its  branches. 
"We  had  removed  to  a  short  distance  from  the 
path;  no  sentinel  was  now  appointed,  and 
every  one  was  left  to  watch  for  his  own 
safety. 

Friday,  26. — After  a  very  restless,  though 
undisturbed  night,  we  set  forward  as  soon  as 
day  appeared,  and  walked  on  with  all  possi- 
ble expedition,  till  we  got  to  the  upper,  which 
we  now  called  Friendly  Village,  and  was  the 
first  we  visted  on  our  outward  journey. 

It  was  eight  in  the  morning  of  a  very  fine 
day  when  we  arrived,  and  found  a  very  ma- 
terial alteration  in  the  place  since  we  left  it. 
Five  additional  houses  had  been  erected  and 
were  filled  with  salmon :  the  increase  of  in- 
habitants was  in  the  same  proportion.  We 
were  received  with  great  kindness,  and  a 
messenger  was  dispatched  to  inform  the  chief, 
Vol.  II.— 20  305 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

whose  name  was  Soocomlick,  and  who  was 
then  at  his  fishing- weir,  of  our  arrival.  He 
immediately  returned  to  the  village  to  con- 
firm the  cordial  reception  of  his  people ;  and 
having  conducted  us  to  his  house,  entertained 
us  with  the  most  respectful  hospitality.  In 
short,  he  behaved  to  us  with  so  much  atten- 
tion and  kindness,  that  I  did  not  withhold 
anything  in  my  power  to  give,  which  might 
afford  him  satisfaction.  I  presented  him  with 
two  yards  of  blue  cloth,  an  axe,  knives,  and 
various  other  articles.  He  gave  me  in  return 
a  large  shell  which  resembled  the  under  shell 
of  a  Guernsey  oyster,  but  somewhat  larger. 
"Where  they  procured  them  I  could  not  dis- 
cover, but  they  cut  and  polish  them  for  brace- 
lets, ear-rings,  and  other  personal  ornaments. 
He  regretted  that  he  had  no  sea-otter  skins 
to  give  me,  but  engaged  to  provide  abundance 
of  them  whenever  either  my  friends  or  my- 
self should  return  by  sea;  an  expectation 
which  I  thought  it  right  to  encourage  among 
these  people.  He  also  earnestly  requested 
me  to  bring  him  a  gun  and  ammunition.  I 
might  have  procured  many  curious  articles  at 
this  place,  but  was  prevented  by  the  consid- 
eration that  we  must  have  carried  them  on 
our  backs  upwards  of  three  hundred  miles 
through  a  mountainous  country.  The  young 
chief,  to  his  other  acts  of  kindness,  added  as 
large  a  supply  of  fish  as  we  choose  to  take. 
306 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

Our  visit  did  not  occasion  any  particular 
interruption  of  the  ordinary  occupation  of  the 
people;  especially  of  the  women,  who  were 
employed  in  boiling  sorrel,  and  different  kinds 
of  berries,  with  salmon-roes,  in  large  square 
kettles  of  cedar  wood.  This  pottage,  when 
it  attained  a  certain  consistency,  they  took 
out  with  ladles,  and  poured  it  into  frames  of 
about  twelve  inches  square  and  one  deep,  the 
bottom  being  covered  with  a  large  leaf,  which 
were  then  exposed  to  the  sun  till  their  con- 
tents became  so  many  dried  cakes.  The  roes 
that  are  mixed  up  with  the  bitter  berries,  are 
prepared  in  the  same  way.  From  the  quan- 
tity of  this  kind  of  provision,  it  must  be  a 
principal  article  of  food,  and  probably  of 
traffic.  These  people  have  also  portable 
chests  of  cedar,  in  which  they  pack  them,  as 
well  as  their  salmon,  both  dried  and  roasted. 
It  appeared  to  me  that  they  eat  no  flesh,  ex- 
cept such  as  the  sea  may  afford  them,  as  that 
of  the  sea-otter  and  the  seal.  The  only  in- 
stance we  observed  to  the  contrary,  was  in  a 
young  Indian  who  accompanied  us  among  the 
islands,  and  has  been  already  mentioned  as 
feasting  on  the  flesh  of  a  porcupine ;  whether 
this  be  their  custom  throughout  the  year,  or 
only  during  the  season  of  the  salmon  fishery; 
or,  whether  there  were  any  castes  of  them,  as 
in  India,  I  cannot  pretend  to  determine.  It 
is  certain,  however,  that  they  are  not  hunters, 
307 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

and  I  have  already  mentioned  the  abhorrence 
they  expressed  at  some  venison  which  we 
brought  to  their  village.  During  our  former 
visit  to  these  people,  they  requested  us  not 
to  discharge  our  fire-arms,  lest  the  report 
should  frighten  away  the  salmon,  but  now 
they  expressed  a  wish  that  I  should  explain  the 
use  and  management  of  them.  Though  their 
demeanour  to  us  was  of  the  most  friendly 
nature,  and  they  appeared  without  any  arms, 
except  a  few  who  accidentally  had  their  dag- 
gers, I  did  not  think  it  altogether  prudent  to 
discharge  our  pieces ;  I  therefore  fired  one  of 
my  pistols  at  a  tree  marked  for  the  purpose, 
when  I  put  four  out  of  five  buck  shot  with 
which  it  was  loaded,  into  the  circle,  to  their 
extreme  astonishment  and  admiration. 

These  people  were  in  general  of  the  middle 
stature,  well  set,  and  better  clothed  with 
flesh  than  any  of  the  natives  of  the  interior 
country.  Their  faces  are  round,  with  high 
cheek  bones,  and  their  complexion  between 
the  olive  and  the  copper.  They  have  small 
grey  eyes,  with  a  tinge  of  red;  they  have 
wedge  heads,  and  their  hair  is  of  a  dark 
brown  colour,  inclining  to  black.  Some  wear 
it  long,  keep  it  well  combed,  and  let  it  hang 
loose  over  their  shoulders,  while  they  divide 
and  tie  it  in  knots  over  the  temples.  Others 
arrange  its  plaits,  and  bedaub  it  with  brown 
earth,  so  as  to  render  it  impervious  to  the 
308 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

comb;  they,  therefore,  cany  a  bodkin  about 
them  to  ease  the  frequent  irritation,  which 
may  be  supposed  to  proceed  from  such  a  state 
of  the  head.  The  women  are  inclined  to  be 
fat,  wear  their  hair  short,  and  appear  to  be 
very  subject  to  swelled  legs,  a  malady  that 
probably  proceeds  from  the  posture  in  which 
they  are  always  sitting :  as  they  are  chiefly 
employed  in  the  domestic  engagements  of 
spinning,  weaving,  preparing  the  fish,  and 
nursing  their  children,  which  did  not  appear 
to  be  numerous.  Their  cradle  differed  from 
any  that  I  had  seen ;  it  consisted  of  a  frame 
fixed  round  a  board  of  sufficient  length,  in 
which  the  child,  after  it  has  been  swathed,  is 
placed  on  a  bed  of  moss,  and  a  conductor 
contrived  to  carry  off  the  urinary  discharge. 
They  are  slung  over  one  shoulder  by  means 
of  a  cord  fastened  under  the  other,  so  that 
the  infant  is  always  in  a  position  to  be  readily 
applied  to  the  breast,  when  it  requires  nour- 
ishment. I  saw  several  whose  heads  were 
inclosed  in  boards  covered  with  leather,  till 
they  attain  the  form  of  a  wedge.  The  women 
wear  no  clothing  but  the  robe,  either  loose  or 
tied  round  the  middle  with  a  girdle,  as  the 
occasion  may  require,  with  the  addition  of  a 
fringed  apron,  already  mentioned,  and  a 
cap,  in  the  form  of  an  inverted  bowl  or  dish. 
To  the  robe  and  cap,  the  men  add,  when  it 
rains,  a  circular  mat  with  an  opening  in  the 
309 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

middle  sufficient  to  admit  the  head,  which 
extending  over  the  shoulders,  throws  off  the 
wet.  They  also  occasionally  wear  shoes  of 
dressed  moose-skin,  for  which  they  are  in- 
debted to  their  neighbors.  Those  parts, 
which  among  all  civilized  nations  are  covered 
from  familiar  view,  are  here  oj^enly  exposed. 

They  are  altogether  dependent  on  the  sea 
and  rivers  for  their  sustenance,  so  that  they 
may  be  considered  as  a  stationary  people; 
hence  it  is  that  the  men  engage  in  those  toil- 
some employments,  which  the  tribes  who 
support  themselves  by  the  chase,  leave  en- 
tirely to  the  women.  Polygamy  is  permitted 
among  them,  though,  according  to  my  obser- 
vation, most  of  the  men  were  satisfied  with 
one  wife,  with  whom,  however,  chastity  is 
not  considered  as  a  necessary  virtue.  I  saw 
but  one  woman  whose  under  lip  was  split  and 
disfigured  with  an  appendent  ornament.  The 
men  frequently  bathe,  and  the  boys  are  con- 
tinually in  the  water.  They  have  nets  and 
lines  of  various  kinds  and  sizes,  which  are 
made  of  cedar  bark,  and  would  not  be  known 
from  those  made  of  hemp.  Their  hooks  con- 
sist of  two  pieces  of  wood  or  bone,  forming 
when  fixed  together,  an  obtuse  angle. 

Their  spears  or  darts  are  from  four  to  six- 
teen feet  in  length ;  the  barb  or  point  being 
fixed  in  a  socket,  which,  when  the  animal  is 
struck,  slips  from  it:  thus  the  barb  being 
310 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

fastened  by  a  string  to  the  handle,  remains 
as  a  buoy ;  or  enables  the  aquatic  hunter  to 
tire  and  take  his  prey.  They  are  employed 
against  sea-otters,  seals,  and  large  fish. 

Their  hatchets  are  made  principally  of 
about  fourteen  inches  of  bar-iron,  fixed  into 
a  wooden  handle,  as  I  have  already  described 
them;  though  they  have  some  of  bone  or 
horn :  with  these,  a  mallet  and  wooden  wedge, 
they  hew  their  timbers  and  form  their  planks. 
They  must  also  have  other  tools  with  which 
they  complete  and  polish  their  work,  but  my 
stay  was  so  short,  my  anxiety  so  great,  and 
my  situation  so  critical,  that  many  circum- 
stances may  be  supposed  to  have  escaped  me. 

Their  canoes  are  made  out  of  the  cedar 
tree,  and  will  carry  from  eight  to  fifty  persons. 

Their  warlike  weapons,  which,  as  far  as  I 
could  judge,  they  very  seldom  have  occasion 
to  employ,  are  bows  and  arrows,  spears,  and 
daggers.  The  arrows  are  such  as  have  been 
already  described,  but  rather  of  a  slighter 
make.  The  bows  are  not  more  than  two  feet 
and  an  half  in  length;  they  are  formed  of  a 
slip  of  red  cedar ;  the  grain  being  on  one  side 
untouched  with  any  tool,  while  the  other  is 
secured  with  sinews  attached  to  it  by  a  kind 
of  glue.  Though  this  weapon  has  a  very 
slender  appearance,  it  throws  an  arrow  with 
great  force,  and  to  a  considerable  distance. 
Their  spears  are  about  ten  feet  long,  and 
311 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

pointed  with  iron.  Their  daggers  are  of  va- 
rious kinds,  being  of  British,  Spanish,  and 
American  Manufacture. 

Their  household  furniture  consists  of  boxes, 
troughs,  and  dishes  formed  of  wood,  with 
different  vessels  made  of  watape.  These  are 
employed,  according  to  their  several  applica- 
tions, to  contain  their  valuables,  and  provi- 
sions, as  well  as  for  culinary  purposes,  and 
to  carry  water.  The  women  make  use  of 
muscle-shells  to  split  and  clean  their  fish, 
and  which  are  very  well  adapted  to  that  pur- 
pose. 

Their  ornaments  are  necklaces,  collars, 
bracelets  for  the  arms,  wrists,  and  legs,  with 
ear-rings,  &c. 

They  burn  their  dead,  and  display  their 
mourning,  by  cutting  their  hair  short,  and 
blackening  their  faces.  Though  I  saw  sev- 
eral places  where  bodies  had  been  burned,  I 
was  surprised  at  not  seeing  any  tomb  or  me- 
morial of  the  dead,  particularly  when  their 
neighbours  are  so  superstitiously  attentive  to 
the  erection  and  preservation  of  them. 

From  the  number  of  their  canoes,  as  well 
as  the  quantity  of  their  chests  and  boxes,  to 
contain  their  moveables,  as  well  as  the  in- 
sufficiency of  their  houses,  to  guard  against 
the  rigours  of  a  severe  winter,  and  the  ap* 
pearance  of  the  ground  around  their  habita- 
tions, it  is  evident  that  these  people  reside 
312 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

here  only  during  the  summer  or  sahnon  sea- 
son, which  does  not  probably  last  more  than 
three  months.  It  may  be  reasonably  inferred, 
therefore,  that  they  have  villages  on  the  sea- 
coast,  which  they  inhabit  during  the  rest  of 
the  year.  There  it  may  be  supposed  they 
leave  the  sick,  the  infirm,  and  the  aged ;  and 
thither  they  may  bear  the  ashes  of  those  who 
die  at  the  place  of  their  summer  residence. 

Of  their  religion  I  can  say  but  little,  as 
my  means  of  observation  were  very  contracted. 
I  could  discover,  however,  that  they  believed 
in  a  good  and  evil  spirit :  and  that  they  have 
some  forms  of  worship  to  conciliate  the  pro- 
tection of  one,  and  perhaps  to  avert  the  en- 
mity of  the  other,  is  apparent  from  the  tem- 
ples which  I  have  described ;  and  where,  at 
stated  periods,  it  may  be  presumed  they  hold 
the  feasts,  and  perform  the  sacrifices,  which 
their  religion,  whatever  it  may  be,  has  insti- 
tuted as  the  ceremonials  of  their  public  wor- 
ship. 

From  the  very  little  I  could  discover  of 
their  government,  it  is  altogether  different 
from  any  political  regulation  which  had  been 
remarked  by  me  among  the  savage  tribes. 
It  is  on  this  river  alone  that  one  man  appears 
to  have  an  exclusive  and  hereditary  right  to 
what  was  necessary  to  the  existence  of  those 
who  are  associated  with  him.  I  allude  to 
the  salmon  weir,  or  fishing  place,  the  sole 
313 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

riglit  to  which  confers  on  the  chief  an  arbi- 
trary power.  Those  embankments  could  not 
have  been  formed  without  a  very  great  and 
associated  labour ;  and,  as  might  be  supposed, 
on  the  condition  that  those  who  assisted  in 
constructing  it  should  enjoy  a  participating 
right  in  the  advantages  to  be  derived  from 
it.  Nevertheless,  it  evidently  appeared  to 
me,  that  the  chief's  power  over  it,  and  the 
people,  was  unlimited,  and  without  control. 
No  one  could  fish  without  his  permission,  or 
carry  home  a  larger  portion  of  what  he  had 
caught,  than  was  set  apart  for  him.  No  one 
could  build  a  house  without  his  consent ;  and 
all  his  commands  appeared  to  be  followed 
with  implicit  obedience.  The  people  at  large 
seemed  to  be  on  a  perfect  equality,  while  the 
strangers  among  them  were  obliged  to  obey 
the  commands  of  the  natives  in  general  or 
quit  the  village.  They  appear  to  be  of  a 
friendly  disposition,  but  they  are  subject  to 
sudden  gusts  of  passion,  which  are  as  quickly 
composed;  and  the  transition  is  instantane- 
ous, from  violent  irritation  to  the  most  tran- 
quil demeanor.  Of  the  many  tribes  of  savage 
people  whom  I  have  seen,  these  appear  to  be 
the  most  susceptible  of  civilization.  They 
might  soon  be  brought  to  cultivate  the  little 
ground  about  them  which  is  capable  of  it. 
There  is  a  narrow  border  of  a  rich  black  soil, 
on  either  side  of  the  river,  over  a  bed  of 
314 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

gravel,  which  would  yield  any  grain  or  fruit' 
that  are  common  to  similar  latitudes  in 
Europe. 

The  very  few  words  which  I  collected  of 
their  language,  are  as  follows : — 


Zimilk, 

Salmon. 

DiUy, 

A  fish  of  the  size  of  a  salmon. 

with  canine  teeth. 

Sepnas, 

Hair  of  the  head. 

Kietis, 

An  axe. 

Clougus, 

Eyes. 

Itzas, 

Teeth. 

Ma-acza, 

Nose. 

Ich-yeh, 

Leg. 

Shous-shey 

Hand. 

Watts, 

Dog. 

Zla-achle, 

House. 

Zimnez, 

Bark  mat  robe. 

Couloun, 

Beaver  or  otter  ditto. 

Dichts, 

Stone. 

Neach, 

Fire. 

Ulkan, 

Water. 

Gits  com, 

A  mat. 

Shiggimia, 

Thread. 

Till-kewan, 

Chest  or  box. 

Thlogatt, 

Cedar  bark. 

Achimoul, 

Beads  got  upon  their  coast. 

Il-caiette, 

A  bonnet. 

Couny, 

A  clam  shell. 

Nochasky, 

A  dish  composed  of  berries  and 

salmon  roes. 

Caiffre, 

What? 

316 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 


CHAPTER   XII. 

JULY,  1793. 

At  eleven  in  the  morning  we  left  this 
place,  which  I  called  Friendly  Village,  accom- 
panied by  every  man  belonging  to  it,  who 
attended  us  about  a  mile,  when  we  took  a 
cordial  leave  of  them ;  and  if  we  might  judge 
from  appearances,  they  parted  from  us  with 
regret. 

In  a  short  time  we  halted  to  make  a  divi- 
sion of  our  fish,  and  each  man  had  about 
twenty  pounds  weight  of  it,  except  Mr.  Mac- 
kay  and  myself,  who  were  content  with 
shorter  allowance,  that  we  might  have  less 
weight  to  carry.  We  had  also  a  little  flour, 
and  some  pemmican.  Having  completed  this 
arrangement  with  all  possible  expedition,  we 
proceeded  onwards,  the  ground  rising  gradu- 
ally, as  we  continued  our  route.  When  we 
were  clear  of  the  wood,  we  saw  the  mountain 
towering  above,  and  apparently  of  impracti- 
cable ascent.  We  soon  came  to  the  fork  of 
the  river,  which  was  at  the  foot  of  the  preci- 
pice, where  the  ford  was  three  feet  deep,  and 
very  rapid.  Our  young  Indian,  though  much 
recovered,  was  still  too  weak  to  cross  the 
water,  and  with  some  difficulty  I  carried  him 
over  on  my  back. 

316 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

It  was  now  one  in  the  afternoon,  and  we 
had  to  ascend  the  summit  of  the  first  moun- 
tain before  night  came  on,  in  order  to  look 
for  water.  I  left  the  sick  Indian,  with  his 
companion  and  one  of  my  men,  to  follow  us, 
as  his  strength  would  permit  him.  The  fa- 
tigue of  ascending  these  precipices  I  shall 
not  attempt  to  describe,  and  it  was  past  five 
when  we  arrived  at  a  spot  where  we  could 
get  water,  and  in  such  an  extremity  of  weari- 
ness, that  it  was  with  great  pain  any  of  us 
could  crawl  about  to  gather  wood  for  the 
necessary  purpose  of  making  a  fire.  To  re- 
lieve our  anxiety,  which  began  to  increase 
every  moment  for  the  situation  of  the  Indian, 
about  seven  he  and  his  companions  arrived ; 
when  we  consoled  ourselves  by  sitting  round 
a  blazing  fire,  talking  of  past  dangers,  and 
indulging  the  delightful  reflection  that  we 
were  thus  far  advanced  on  our  homeward 
journey.  Nor  was  it  possible  to  be  in  this 
situation  without  contemplating  the  wonders 
of  it.  Such  was  the  depth  of  the  precipices 
below,  and  the  height  of  the  mountains  above, 
with  the  rude  and  wild  magnificence  of  the 
scenery  around,  that  I  shall  not  attempt  to 
describe  such  an  astonishing  and  awful  com- 
bination of  objects ;  of  which,  indeed,  no  de- 
scription can  convey  an  adequate  idea.  Even 
at  this  place,  which  is  only,  as  it  were,  the 
first  step  towards  gaining  the  summit  of  the 
317 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

mountains,  the  climate  was  very  sensibly 
changed.  The  air  that  fanned  the  village 
which  we  left  at  noon,  was  mild  and  cheer- 
ing; the  grass  was  verdant,  and  the  wild 
fruits  ripe  around  it.  But  here  the  snow 
was  not  yet  dissolved,  the  ground  was  still 
bound  by  the  frost,  the  herbage  had  scarce 
begun  to  spring,  and  the  crowberry  bushes 
were  just  beginning  to  blossom. 

Saturday,  27. — So  great  was  our  fatigue  of 
yesterday,  that  it  was  late  before  we  pro- 
ceeded to  return  over  the  mountains,  by  the 
same  route  which  we  had  followed  in  our 
outward  journey.  There  was  little  or  no 
change  in  the  appearance  of  the  mountains 
since  we  passed  them,  though  the  weather 
was  very  fine. 

Sunday,  28. — At  nine  this  morning  we 
arrived  at  the  spot,  where  we  slept  with  the 
natives  on  the  16th  instant,  and  found  our 
pemmican  in  good  condition  where  we  had 
buried  it. 

The  latitude  of  this  place,  by  observation, 
when  I  passed,  I  found  to  be  52.  46.  32.  I 
now  took  time,  and  the  distance  between  sun 
and  moon.  I  had  also  an  azimuth,  to  ascer- 
tain the  variation. 

We  continued  our  route  with  fine  weather, 
and  without  meeting  a  single  person  on  our 
way,  the  natives  being  all  gone,  as  we  sup- 
posed, to  the  Great  River.  We  recovered  all 
318 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

our  hidden  stores  of  provisions,  and  arrived 
about  two  in  the  afternoon  of  Sunday,  August 
the  4th,  at  the  place  which  we  had  left  a 
month  before. 

A  considerable  number  of  Indians  were 
encamped  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  small 
river,  and  in  consequence  of  the  weather,  con- 
fined to  their  lodges:  as  they  must  have 
heard  of,  if  not  seen  us,  and  our  arms  being 
out  of  order  from  the  rain,  I  was  not  satisfied 
with  our  situation ;  but  did  not  wish  to  create 
an  alarm.  We,  therefore,  kept  in  the  edge 
of  the  wood,  and  called  to  them,  when  they 
turned  out  like  so  many  furies,  with  their 
arms  in  their  hands,  and  threatening  destruc- 
tion if  we  dared  to  approach  their  habitations. 
We  remained  in  our  station  till  their  passion 
and  apprehensions  had  subsided,  when  our 
interpreter  gave  them  the  necessary  informa- 
tion respecting  us.  They  proved  to  be  stran- 
gers to  us,  but  were  the  relations  of  those 
whom  he  had  already  seen  here,  and  who,  as 
they  told  us,  were  upon  an  island  at  some 
distance  up  the  river.  A  messenger  was  ac- 
cordingly sent  to  inform  them  of  our  arrival. 

Monday,  5. — On  examining  the  canoe,  and 
our  property,  which  we  had  left  behind,  we 
found  it  in  perfect  safety,  nor  was  there  the 
print  of  a  foot  near  the  spot.  We  now  pitched 
our  tent,  and  made  a  blazing  fire,  and  I 
treated  myself,  as  well  as  the  people,  with  a 
319 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

dram ;  but  we  had  been  so  long  without  tast- 
ing any  spirituous  liquor,  that  we  had  lost 
all  relish  for  it.  The  Indians  now  arrived 
from  above,  and  were  rewarded  for  the  care 
they  had  taken  of  our  property  with  such 
articles  as  were  acceptable  to  them. 

At  nine  this  morning  I  sent  five  men  in  the 
canoe,  for  the  various  articles  we  had  left  be- 
low, and  they  soon  returned  with  them,  and 
except  some  bale  goods,  which  had  got  wet, 
they  were  in  good  order,  particularly  the 
provisions,  of  which  we  were  now  in  great 
need. 

Many  of  the  natives  arrived  both  from  the 
upper  and  lower  parts  of  the  river,  each  of 
whom  was  dressed  in  a  beaver  robe.  I  pur- 
chased fifteen  of  them ;  and  they  preferred 
large  knives  in  exchange.  It  is  an  extraor- 
dinary circumstance,  that  these  people,  who 
might  have  taken  all  the  propery  we  left  be- 
hind us,  without  the  least  fear  of  detection, 
should  leave  that  untouched,  and  purloin  any 
of  our  utensils,  which  our  confidence  in  their 
honesty  gave  them  a  ready  opportunity  of 
taking.  In  fact,  several  articles  were  miss- 
ing, and  as  I  was  very  anxious  to  avoid  a 
quarrel  with  the  natives,  in  this  stage  of  our 
journey,  I  told  those  who  remained  near  us, 
without  any  appearance  of  anger,  that  their 
relations  who  were  gone,  had  no  idea  of  the 
mischief  that  would  result  to  them  from  tak- 
320 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

ing  our  property.  I  gravely  added,  that  the 
salmon,  which  was  not  only  their  favourite 
food,  but  absolutely  necessary  to  their  exist- 
ence, came  from  the  sea  which  belonged  to  us 
white  men ;  and  that  as,  at  the  entrance  of 
the  river,  we  could  prevent  those  fish  from 
coming  up  it,  we  possessed  the  power  to 
starve  them  and  their  children.  To  avert  oa^ 
anger,  therefore,  they  must  return  aii  me 
articles  that  had  been  stolen  from  us.  This 
finesse  succeeded.  Messengers  were  dis- 
patched to  order  the  restoration  of  everything 
that  had  been  taken.  We  purchased  several 
large  salmon  of  them  and  enjoyed  the  deli- 
cious meal  which  they  afforded. 

At  noon  this  day,  which  I  allotted  for  re- 
pose, I  got  a  meridian  altitude,  which  gave 
63.  24.  10.  I  also  took  time.  The  weather 
had  been  cloudy  at  intervals. 

Every  necessary  preparation  had  been 
made  yesterday  for  us  to  continue  our  route 
to-day;  but  before  our  departure,  some  of 
the  natives  arrived  with  part  of  the  stolen 
articles ;  the  rest,  they  said,  had  been  taken 
by  people  down  the  river,  who  would  be 
here  in  the  course  of  the  morning,  and 
recommended  their  children  to  our  com- 
miseration, and  themselves  to  our  forgive- 
ness. 

The  morning  was  cloudy,  with  small  rain, 
nevertheless  I  ordered  the  men  to  load  the 
Vol.  II.— 21  321 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

canoe,  and  we  proceeded  in  high  spirits  on 
finding  ourselves  once  more  so  comfortably 
together  in  it.  V  /e  landed  at  a  house  on  the 
first  island,  where  we  procured  a  few  salmon, 
and  four  fine  bearer  skins.  There  had  been 
much  more  rain  in  these  parts  than  in  the 
country  above,  as  the  water  was  pouring 
down  tb^' -Kills  in  torrents.  The  river  conse- 
quentx^  t^me  with  great  rapidity,  and  very- 
much  impeded  our  progress. 

The  people  on  this  river  are  generally  of 
the  middle  size,  though  I  saw  many  tall  men 
among  them.  In  the  cleanliness  of  their  per- 
sons they  resemble  rather  the  Beaver  Indians 
than  the  Chepewyans.  They  are  ignorant  of 
the  use  of  fire  arms,  and  their  only  weapons 
are  bows  and  arrows,  and  spears.  They 
catch  the  larger  animals  in  snares,  but  though 
their  country  abounds  in  them,  and  the  rivers 
and  lakes  produce  plenty  of  fish,  they  find 
a  difficulty  in  supporting  themselves,  and  are 
never  to  be  seen  but  in  small  bands  of  two  or 
three  families.  There  is  no  regular  govern- 
ment among  them;  nor  do  they  appear  to 
have  a  sufficient  communication  or  under- 
standing with  each  other,  to  defend  them- 
selves against  an  invading  enemy,  to  whom 
they  fall  an  easy  prey.  They  have  all  the 
animals  common  on  the  West  side  of  the 
mountains,  except  the  buffalo  and  the  wolf; 
at  least  we  saw  none  of  the  latter,  and  there 
322 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

being  none  of  the  former,  it  is  evident  that 
their  progress  is  from  the  South-East.  The 
same  language  is  spoken,  with  very  little  ex- 
ception from  the  extent  of  my  travels  down 
this  river,  and  in  a  direct  line  from  the  North- 
East  head  of  it  in  the  latitude  53.  or  54.  to 
Hudson's  Bay;  so  that  a  Chepewyan,  from 
which  tribe  they  have  all  sprung,  might  leave 
Churchill  River,  and  proceeding  in  every  di- 
rection to  the  North- West  of  this  line  with- 
out knowing  any  language  except  his  own, 
would  understand  them  all:  I  except  the 
natives  of  the  sea  coast,  who  are  altogether  a 
different  people.  As  to  the  people  to  the 
Eastward  of  this  river,  I  am  not  qualified  to 
speak  of  them. 

At  twelve  we  ran  our  canoe  upon  a  rock, 
so  that  we  were  obliged  to  land  in  order  to 
repair  the  injury  she  had  received;  and  as 
the  rain  came  on  with  great  violence,  we  re- 
mained here  for  the  night.  The  salmon  were 
now  driving  up  the  current  in  such  large 
shoals,  that  the  water  seemed,  as  it  were,  to 
be  covered  with  the  fins  of  them. 

Wednesday,  7. — About  nine  this  morning 
the  weather  cleared,  and  we  embarked.  The 
shoals  of  salmon  continued  as  yesterday. 
There  were  frequent  showers  throughout  the 
day,  and  every  brook  was  deluged  into  a 
river.  The  water  had  risen  at  least  one  foot 
and  an  half  perpendicular  in  the  last  twenty- 
323 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

four  hours.     In  the  dusk  of  the  evening  we 
landed  for  the  night. 

Thursday,  8. — The  water  continued  rising 
during  the  night ;  so  that  we  were  disturbed 
twice  in  the  course  of  it,  to  remove  our  bag- 
gage. At  six  in  the  morning  we  were  on  our 
way,  and  proceeded  with  continual  and  labo- 
rious exertion,  from  the  increased  rapidity  of 
the  current.  After  having  passed  the  two 
carrying  places  of  Rocky  Point,  and  the  Long 
Portage,  we  encamped  for  the  night. 

Friday,  9. — We  set  off  at  five,  after  a  rainy 
night  and  in  a  foggy  morning.  The  water 
still  retained  its  height.  The  sun,  however, 
soon  beamed  upon  us ;  and  our  clothes  and 
baggage  were  in  such  a  state  that  we  landed 
to  dry  them.  After  some  time  we  re-em- 
barked and  arrived  at  our  first  encampment 
on  this  river  about  seven  in  the  evening. 
The  water  fell  considerably  in  the  course  of 
the  day. 

Saturday,  10. — The  weather  was  cloudy 
with  slight  showers,  and  at  five  this  morning 
we  embarked,  the  water  falling  as  fast  as  it 
had  risen.  This  circumstance  arises  from 
the  mountainous  state  of  the  country  on 
either  side  of  the  river,  from  whence  the 
water  rushes  down  almost  as  fast  as  it  falls 
from  the  heavens,  with  the  addition  of  the 
snow  it  melts  in  its  way.  At  eight  in  the 
evening  we  stopped  for  the  night. 
324 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

Sunday  J 11. — At  five  this  morning  we  pro- 
ceeded with  clear  weather.  At  ten  we  came 
to  the  foot  of  the  long  rapid,  which  we  as- 
cended with  poles  much  easier  than  we  ex- 
pected. The  rapids  that  were  so  strong  and 
violent  in  our  passage  downwards,  were  now 
so  reduced,  that  we  could  hardly  believe 
them  to  be  the  same.  At  si^^nset  we  landed 
and  encamped. 

Monday,  12. — The  weather  was  the  same 
as  yesterday,  and  we  were  on  the  water  at  a 
very  early  hour.  At  nine  we  came  to  a  part 
of  the  river  where  there  was  little  or  no  cur- 
rent. At  noon  we  land  d  to  gum  the  canoe, 
when  I  took  a  meridian  altitude,  which  gave 
54.  11.  36.  North  latitude.  We  continued 
our  route  nearly  East,  and  at  three  in  the 
afternoon  approached  the  fork,  when  I  took 
time,  and  the  distan  je  between  the  sun  and 
moon.  At  four  in  the  afternoon  we  left  the 
main  branch.  The  current  was  quite  slack, 
as  the  water  had  fallen  six  feet,  which  must 
have  been  in  the  course  of  three  days.  At 
sunset  we  landed  and  took  our  station  for  the 
night. 

Tuesday,  IS.—  There  was  a  very  heavy 
rain  in  the  night,  and  the  morning  was 
cloudy ;  we  renewed  our  voyage,  however,  at 
a  very  early  hour,  and  came  to  the  narrow 
gut  between  the  mountains  of  rock,  which 
was  a  passage  of  some  risk ;  but  fortunately 
325 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

the  state  of  the  water  was  such,  that  we 
got  up  without  any  difficulty,  and  had  more 
time  to  examine  these  extraordinary  rocks 
than  in  our  outward  passage.  They  are  as 
perpendicular  as  a  wall,  and  give  the  idea  of 
a  succession  of  enormous  Gothic  churches. 
We  were  now  closely  hemmed  in  by  the 
mountains,  which  had  lost  much  of  their 
snow  since  our  former  passage  by  them.  We 
encamped  at  a  late  hour,  cold,  wet,  and  hun- 
gry: for  such  was  the  state  of  our  pro- 
visions, that  our  necessary  allowance  did  not 
answer  to  the  active  cravings  of  our  ap- 
petites. 

Wednesday,  14- — The  weather  was  cold  and 
raw,  with  small  rain,  but  our  necessities 
would  not  suffer  us  to  wait  for  a  favourable 
change  of  it,  and  at  half  past  five  we  arrived 
at  the  swampy  carrying-place,  between  this 
branch  and  the  small  river.  At  three  in  the 
afternoon  the  cold  was  extreme,  and  the  men 
could  not  keep  themselves  warm  even  by 
their  violent  exertions  which  our  situation  re- 
quired ;  and  I  now  gave  them  the  remainder 
of  our  rum  to  fortify  and  support  them.  The 
canoe  was  so  heavy  that  the  lives  of  two  of 
them  were  endangered  in  this  horrible  carry- 
ing-place. At  the  same  time  it  must  be  ob- 
served, that  from  the  fatiguing  circumstances 
of  our  journey,  and  the  inadequate  state  of 
our  provisions,  the  natural  strength  of  the 
326 


NORTH-WEST   CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

men  had  been  greatly  diminislied.  We  en- 
camped on  the  banks  of  the  bad  river. 

Thursday,  15. — The  weather  was  now 
clear,  and  the  sun  shone  upon  us.  The  water 
was  much  lower  than  in  the  downward  pas- 
sage, but  was  cold  as  ice,  and,  unfortunately, 
the  men  were  obliged  to  be  continually  in  it 
to  drag  on  the  canoe.  There  were  many  em- 
barras,  through  which  a  passage  might  have 
been  made,  but  we  were  under  the  necessity 
of  carrying  both  the  canoe  and  baggage. 

About  sun-set  we  arrived  at  our  encamp- 
ment of  the  13th  of  June,  where  some  of  us 
had  nearly  taken  our  eternal  voyage.  The 
legs  and  feet  of  the  men  were  so  benumbed, 
that  I  was  very  apprehensive  of  the  conse- 
quence. The  water  being  low,  we  made  a 
search  for  our  bag  of  ball,  but  without  suc- 
cess. The  river  was  full  of  salmon,  and 
another  fish  like  the  black  bass. 

Friday  J  16. — The  weather  continued  to  be 
the  same  as  yesterday,  and  at  two  in  the 
afternoon  we  came  to  the  carrying-place 
which  leads  to  the  first  small  lake ;  but  it  was 
so  filled  with  drift  wood,  that  a  considerable 
portion  of  time  was  employed  in  making  our 
way  through  it.  We  now  reached  the  high 
land  which  separates  the  source  of  the  Ta- 
coutche  Tesse,  or  Columbia  River,  and  Unji- 
gah,  or  Peace  River:  the  latter  of  which, 
after  receiving  many  tributary  streams,  passes 
327 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

through  the  great  Slave  Lake,  and  disem- 
bogues itself  in  the  Frozen  Ocean,  in  latitude 
69.  30.  North,  longitude  135  West  from 
Greenwich ;  while  the  former,  confined  by  the 
immense  mountains  that  run  nearly  parallel 
with  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  keep  it  in  a 
Southern  course,  empties  itself  in  46.  20. 
North  latitude  and  longitude  124  West  from 
Greenwich. 

L£  I  could  have  spared  the  time,  and  had 
been  able  to  exert  myself,  for  I  was  now 
afflicted  with  a  swelling  in  my  ancles,  so  that 
I  could  not  even  walk,  but  with  great  pain  and 
difficulty,  it  was  my  intention  to  have  taken 
some  salmon  alive,  and  colonised  them  in  the 
Peace  River,  though  it  is  very  doubtful 
■whether  that  fish  would  live  in  waters  that 
have  not  a  communication  with  the  sea. 

Some  of  the  inhabitants  had  been  here  since 
we  passed ;  and  I  apprehend,  that  on  seeing 
our  road  through  their  country,  they  mistook 
us  for  enemies,  and  had  therefore  deserted 
the  place,  which  is  a  most  convenient  station ; 
as  on  one  side,  there  is  a  great  plenty  of 
white  fish,  and  trout,  jub,  carp,  &c.,  and  on 
the  other  abundance  of  salmon,  and  probably 
other  fish.  Several  things  that  I  had  left 
here  in  exchange  for  articles  of  which  I  had 
possessed  myself,  as  objects  of  curiosity, 
were  taken  away.  The  hurtle-berries  were 
now  ripe,  and  very  fine  of  their  kind. 
328 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

Saturday,  17. — The  morning  was  cloudy, 
and  at  five  we  renewed  our  progress.  We 
were  compelled  to  carry  from  the  lake  to  the 
Peace  River,  the  passage,  from  the  falling 
of  the  water,  being  wholly  obstructed  by 
dirft  wood.  The  meadow  through  which  we 
passed  was  entirely  inundated ;  and  from  the 
state  of  my  foot  and  ancle,  I  was  obliged, 
though  with  great  reluctance,  to  submit  to 
be  carried  over  it. 

At  half  past  seven  we  began  to  glide  along^ 
with  the  current  of  the  Peace  River;  and 
almost  at  every  canoe's  length  we  perceived 
Beaver  roads  to  and  from  the  river.  At  two 
in  the  afternoon,  an  object  attracted  our  no- 
tice at  the  entrance  of  a  small  river,  which 
proved  to  be  the  four  beaver  skins,  already 
mentioned  to  have  been  presented  to  me 
by  a  native,  and  left  in  his  possession  to 
receive  them  on  my  return.  I  imagined,, 
therefore,  that  being  under  the  necessity  of 
leaving  the  river,  or,  perhaps,  fearing  to 
meet  us  again,  he  had  taken  this  method  to 
restore  them  to  me;  and  to  reward  his 
honesty,  I  left  three  times  the  value  of  the 
skins  in  their  place.  The  snow  appeared  in 
patches  on  the  mountains.  At  four  in  the 
afternoon  we  passed  the  place  where  we 
found  the  first  natives,  and  landed  for  the 
night  at  a  late  hour.  In  the  course  of  the 
day,  we  caught  nine  outards,  or  Canada 
329 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

geese,  but  they  were  as  yet  without  their 
feathers. 

Friday,  18. — As  soon  as  it  was  light  we 
proceeded  on  our  voyage,  and  drove  on  be- 
fore the  current,  which  was  very  much  di- 
minished in  its  strength,  since  we  came  up  it. 
The  water  indeed,  was  so  low,  that  in  many 
parts  it  exposed  a  gravelly  beach.  At  eleven 
we  landed  at  our  encampment  of  the  seventh 
of  June,  to  gum  the  canoe  and  dry  our 
clothes:  we  then  re-embarked,  and  at  half 
past  five  arrived  at  the  place,  where  I  lost 
my  book  of  memorandums,  on  the  fourth  of 
June,  in  which  were  certain  courses  and  dis- 
tances between  that  day  and  the  twenty-sixth 
of  May,  which  I  had  now  an  opportunity  to 
supply.     They  were  as  follows : 

North-North- West  half  a  mile.  East  by 
North  half  a  mile,  North  by  East  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  North- West  by  West  a  quarter  of 
a  mile,  West-South-West  half  a  mile,  North- 
West  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  North-North- 
West  three  quarters  of  a  mile.  North  by  East 
half  a  mile.  North -West  three  quarters  of  a 
mile.  West  half  a  mile.  North- West  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  West-North-West  one 
mile  and  a  quarter.  North  three  quarters  of  a 
mile.  West  by  North  one  quarter  of  a  mile, 
North-West  one  mile  and  an  half,  West- 
North- West  half  a  mile,  North-North- West 
three  quarters  of  a  mile.  West  one  quarter  of 
330 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA, 

a  mile,  North-North-East  half  a  mile,  North- 
North- West  two  miles,  and  North- West  four 
miles. 

We  were  seven  days  in  going  up  that  part 
of  the  river  which  we  came  down  to-day; 
and  it  now  swarmed,  as  it  were,  with  beavers 
and  wild  fowl.  There  was  rain  in  the  after- 
noon, and  about  sunset  we  took  our  station 
for  the  night. 

Monday,  19. — We  had  some  small  rain 
throughout  the  night.  Our  course  to-day 
was  South-South- West  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  West-North- West  half  a  mile,  North 
half  a  mile,  North-West  by  West  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile.  North  by  West  half  a  mile ;  a 
small  river  to  the  left,  South -West  by  West 
three  quarters  of  a  mile,  West-North- West  a 
mile  and  an  half,  North-West  by  North  four 
miles,  a  rivulet  on  the  right,  West-North- 
West  three  quarters  of  a  mile ;  a  considerable- 
river  from  the  left,  North -North -West  two 
miles,  North  half  a  mile,  West-North- West 
one  mile  and  a  half ;  a  rivulet  on  the  right, 
North-West  by  West  one  mile  and  a  quarter,. 
West-North-West  one  mile,  West-South- 
West  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  North-North-West 
half  a  mile.  North- AVest  half  a  mile,  West- 
South- West  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  North- 
West  by  West  three  miles,  West-South-West 
three  quarters  of  a  mile,  North-West  by 
West  one  mile ;  a  small  river  on  the  right, 
331 


JOURNAL  OP  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

South- West  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  West-ISTorth- 
West,  islands,  four  miles  and  a  half,  a  river 
on  the  left,  North  half  a  mile.  West  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile^  North  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
Horth-West  bj  West  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
North-North-East  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
North-W^est  bj  North  half  a  mile,  West- 
N'orth-West  a  mile  and  an  half,  and  North- 
West  by  North  half  a  mile.  The  mountains 
were  covered  with  fresh  snow,  whose  showers 
had  dissolved  in  rain  before  they  reached  us. 
Korth-West  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  South- 
West  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  North  a  mile  and 
three  quarters,  West-North- West  a  mile  and 
a  quarter,  North-West  a  mile  and  a  half, 
North-North-West  half  a  mile,  West-North- 
West  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  North  half  a  mile ; 
here  the  current  was  slack :  North-West  by 
North  half  a  mile,  North-West  by  West  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  North-North- West  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile,  North-West  by  West  one  mile 
and  a  quarter,  North  half  a  mile,  North-East 
by  North  one  mile  and  three  quarters,  South- 
West  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  with  an  island. 
North  by  East  one  mile,  North-West.  Here 
the  other  branch  opened  to  us,  at  the  distance 
of  three  quarters  of  a  mile. 

I  expected  from  the  slackness  of  the  cur- 
rent in  this  branch,  that  the  Western  one 
would  be  high,  but  I  found  it  equally  low. 
I  had  every  reason  to  believe  that  from  the 
332 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

upper  part  of  this  branch,  the  distance  could 
not  be  great  to  the  country  through  which  I 
passed  when  I  left  the  Great  River ;  but  it 
has  since  been  determined  otherwise  by  Mr. 
J.  Finlay,  who  was  sent  to  explore  it,  and 
found  its  navigation  soon  terminated  by  falls 
and  rapids. 

The  branches  are  about  two  hundred  yards 
in  breadth,  and  the  water  was  six  feet  lower 
than  on  our  upward  passage.  Our  course, 
after  the  junction,  was  North-North- West  one 
mile,  the  rapid  North-East  down  it  three 
quarters  of  a  mile.  North  by  West  one  mile 
and  a  quarter.  North  by  East  one  mile  and 
an  half.  East  by  South  one  mile,  North-East 
two  miles  and  an  half,  East-North-East  a 
quarter  of  a  mile ;  a  rivulet ;  East  by  South 
one  mile  and  an  half,  North-East  two  miles. 
East- North-East  one  mile,  North-North -East 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  North-East  by  East  half 
a  mile,  East-South-East  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
East-North-East  half  a  mile,  North-East  two 
miles,  North-East  by  East  two  miles  and  a 
quarter,  South-East  by  East  a  quarter  of  a 
mile ;  a  rivulet  from  the  left ;  East  by  North 
a  mile  and  an  half.  East  by  South  one  mile, 
East-North-East  one  mile  and  three  quarters  j 
a  river  on  the  right ;  North-North-East  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  North-East  a  mile  and  a 
half,  North-East  by  East  a  mile  and  a  quarter, 
East-North-East  half  a  mile,  and  North-East 
333 


JOURNAL  OP  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

by  North  half  a  mile.  Here  we  landed  at 
our  encampment  of  the  27th  of  June,  from 
whence  I  dispatched  a  letter  in  an  empty- 
keg,  as  was  mentioned  in  that  period  of  my 
journal,  which  set  forth  our  existing  state, 
progress,  and  expectation. 

Tuesday y  20. — Though  the  weather  was 
clear,  we  could  not  embark  this  morning  be- 
fore five,  as  there  was  a  rapid  very  near  us, 
which  required  daylight  to  run  it,  that  we 
might  not  break  our  canoe  on  the  rocks.  The 
baggage  we  were  obliged  to  carry.  Our 
course  was  North  by  East  a  mile  and  an  half, 
North-North-East  a  mile  and  a  half  down 
another  rapid  on  the  West  side ;  it  requires 
great  care  to  keep  directly  between  the  eddy 
current,  and  that  which  was  driving  down 
with  so  much  impetuosity.  We  then  pro- 
ceeded North-North- West,  a  river  from  the 
right;  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  North-North- 
East  a  mile  and  a  half,  a  river  from  the  left ; 
North  one  mile  and  three  quarters,  North- 
East  two  miles,  North-East  by  East  two  miles 
and  a  quarter.  East  by  North  one  mile, 
North-East  by  East  four  miles,  a  river  from 
the  left,  and  East  by  South  a  mile  and  a  half. 
Here  was  our  encampment  on  the  26th  of 
May,  beyond  which  it  would  be  altogether 
superfluous  for  me  to  take  the  courses,  as 
they  are  inserted  in  their  proper  places. 

As  we  continued  our  voyage,  our  attention 
334 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

was  attracted  by  the  appearance  of  an  Indian 
encampment.  We  accordingly  landed,  and 
found  there  had  been  five  fires,  and  within 
that  number  of  days,  so  that  there  must  have 
been  some  inhabitants  in  the  neighbourhood, 
though  we  were  not  so  fortunate  as  to  see 
them.  It  appeared  that  they  had  killed  a 
number  of  animals,  and  fled  in  a  state  of 
alarm,  as  three  of  their  canoes  were  left  care- 
lessly on  the  beach,  and  their  paddles  laying 
about  in  disorder.  We  soon  after  came  to 
the  carrying-place  called  the  Portage  de  la. 
Montague  de  Roche.  Here  I  had  a  meridian 
altitude,  which  made  the  latitude  56,  3.  51- 
North. 

The  water,  as  I  have  already  observed,, 
was  much  lower  than  when  we  came  up  it, 
though  at  the  same  time  the  current  appeared 
to  be  stronger  from  this  place  to  the  forks ; 
the  navigation,  however,  would  now  be  at- 
tended with  greater  facility,  as  there  is  a 
stony  beach  all  the  way,  so  that  poles,  or  the 
towing-line,  may  be  employed  with  the  best 
effect,  where  the  current  overpowers  the  use 
of  paddles. 

We  were  now  reduced  to  a  very  short  al^ 
lowance;  the  disappointment,  therefore,  at 
not  seeing  any  animals  was  proportioned  to 
our  exigencies,  as  we  did  not  possess  at  this 
time  more  than  was  sufficient  to  serve  us  for 
two  meals.  I  now  dispatched  Mr.  Mackay 
335 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

and  the  Indians  to  proceed  to  the  foot  of  the 
rapids,  and  endeavour  in  their  way  to  pro- 
cure some  provisions,  while  I  prepared  to  em- 
ploy the  utmost  expedition  in  getting  there ; 
having  determined,  notwithstanding  the  dis- 
inclination of  my  people,  from  the  recollec- 
tion of  what  they  had  suffered  in  coming  that 
way,  to  return  by  the  same  route.  I  had  ob- 
served, indeed,  that  the  water  which  had 
fallen  fifteen  feet  perpendicular,  at  the  nar- 
row pass  below  us,  had  lost  much  of  its 
former  turbulence. 

As  dispatch  was  essential  in  procuring  a 
supply  of  provisions,  we  did  not  delay  a  mo- 
ment in  making  preparation  to  renew  our 
progress.  Five  of  the  men  began  to  carry 
the  baggage,  while  the  sixth  and  myself  took 
the  canoe  asunder,  to  cleanse  her  of  the  dirt, 
and  expose  her  lining  and  timbers  to  the  air, 
which  would  render  her  much  lighter.  About 
sun-set  Mr.  Mackay  and  our  hunters  returned 
with  heavy  burdens  of  the  flesh  of  a  buffalo : 
though  not  very  tender,  it  was  very  accepta- 
ble, and  was  the  only  animal  that  they  had 
seen,  though  the  country  was  covered  with 
tracks  of  them,  as  well  as  of  the  moose-deer 
and  the  elk.  The  former  had  done  rutting, 
and  the  latter  were  beginning  to  run.  Our 
people  returned,  having  left  their  loads  mid- 
way on  the  carrying-place.  My  companion 
and  myself  completed  our  undertaking,  and 
336 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

the  canoe  was  ready  to  be  carried  in  the 
morning.  A  hearty  meal  concluded  the  day, 
and  every  fear  of  future  want  was  removed. 

Wednesday,  21.  —  When  the  morning 
dawned  we  set  forwards,  but  as  a  lire  had 
passed  through  the  portage,  it  was  with  diffi- 
culty we  could  trace  our  road  in  many  parts  j 
and  with  all  the  exertion  of  which  we  were 
capable,  we  did  not  arrive  at  the  river  till 
four  in  the  afternoon.  We  found  almost  as 
much  difficulty  in  carrying  our  canoe  down 
the  mountain  as  we  had  in  getting  it  up ;  the 
men  being  not  so  strong  as  on  the  former 
occasion,  though  they  were  in  better  spirits ; 
and  I  was  now  enabled  to  assist  them,  my 
ancle  being  almost  well.  We  could  not, 
however,  proceed  any  further  till  the  follow- 
ing day,  as  we  had  the  canoe  to  gum,  with 
several  great  and  small  poles  to  prepare; 
those  we  had  left  here  having  been  carried 
away  by  the  water,  though  we  had  left  them 
in  a  position  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  above 
the  water-mark,  at  that  time.  These  occu- 
pations employed  us  till  a  very  late  hour. 

Thursday,  22. — The  night  was  cold,  and 
though  the  morning  was  fine  and  clear,  it  was 
seven  before  we  were  in  a  state  of  prepara- 
tion to  leave  this  place,  sometimes  driving 
with  the  current,  and  at  other  times  shooting 
the  rapids.  The  latter  had  lost  much  of 
their  former  strength;  but  we,  nevertheless, 
Vol.  II.— 22  337 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

thought  it  necessary  to  land  very  frequently, 
in  order  to  examine  the  rapids  before  we 
could  venture  to  run  them.  However,  the 
canoe  being  light,  we  very  fortunately  passed 
them  all,  and  at  noon  arrived  at  the  place 
where  I  appointed  to  meet  Mr.  Mackay  and 
the  hunters :  there  we  found  them,  with 
plenty  of  excellent  fat  meat,  ready  roasted, 
as  they  had  killed  two  elks  within  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  of  the  spot  where  we  then  were. 
When  the  men  had  satisfied  their  appetites, 
I  sent  them  for  as  much  of  the  meat  as  they 
could  carry.  In  coming  hither,  Mr.  Mackay 
informed  me,  that  he  and  the  hunters  kept 
along  the  high  land,  and  did  not  see  or  cross 
the  Indian  path.  At  the  same  time,  there 
can  be  no  doubt  but  the  road  from  this  place 
to  the  upper  part  of  the  rapids  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred to  that  which  we  came,  both  for  expe- 
dition and  safety. 

After  staying  here  about  an  hour  and  a 
half,  we  proceeded  with  the  stream,  and 
landed  where  I  had  forgotten  my  pipe-toma- 
hawk and  seal,  on  the  eighteenth  of  May. 
The  former  of  them  I  now  recovered. 

On  leaving  the  mountains  we  saw  animals 
grazing  in  every  direction.  In  passing  along 
an  island,  we  fired  at  an  elk,  and  broke  its 
leg ;  and  as  it  was  now  time  to  encamp,  we 
landed;  when  the  hunters  pursued  the 
wounded  animal,  which  had  crossed  over  to 
338 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

the  main  land,  but  could  not  get  up  the  bank. 
We  went  after  it,  therefore,  in  the  canoe,  and 
killed  it.  To  give  some  notion  of  our  appe- 
tites, I  shall  state  the  elk,  or  at  least  the 
carcase  of  it,  which  we  brought  away,  to 
have  weighed  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds ; 
and  as  we  had  taken  a  very  hearty  meal  at 
one  o'clock,  it  might  naturally  be  supposed 
that  we  should  not  be  very  voracious  at  sup- 
per; nevertheless,  a  kettle  full  of  the  elk  flesh 
was  boiled  and  eaten,  and  that  vessel  replen- 
ished and  put  on  the  fire.  All  that  remained, 
with  the  bones,  &c.  was  placed,  after  the  In- 
dian fashion,  round  the  fire  to  roast,  and  at 
ten  next  morning  the  whole  was  consumed 
by  ten  persons  and  a  large  dog,  who  was  al- 
lowed his  share  of  the  banquet.  This  is  no 
exaggeration;  nor  did  any  inconvenience  re- 
sult from  what  may  be  considered  as  an  in- 
ordinate indulgence. 

Friday,  23. — We  were  on  the  water  before 
daylight;  and  when  the  sun  rose,  a  beautiful 
country  appeared  around  us,  enriched  and 
animated  by  large  herds  of  wild  cattle.  The 
weather  was  now  so  warm,  that  to  us,  who 
had  not  of  late  been  accustomed  to  heat,  it 
was  overwhelming  and  oppressive.  In  the 
course  of  this  day  we  killed  a  buffalo  and  a 
bear;  but  we  were  now  in  the  midst  of  abun- 
dance, and  they  were  not  sufficiently  fat  to 
satisfy  our  fastidious  appetites,  so  we  left 
339 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

them  where  they  fell.  "We  landed  for  the 
night,  and  prepared  ourselves  for  arriving  at 
the  Fort  on  the  following  day. 

Saturday,  24- — The  weather  was  the  same 
as  yesterday,  and  the  country  increasing  in 
beauty ;  though  as  we  approached  the  Forty 
the  cattle  appeared  proportionably  to  dimin- 
ish. We  now  landed  at  two  lodges  of  Indi- 
ans, who  were  as  astonished  to  see  us,  as  if 
we  had  been  the  first  white  men  whom  they 
had  ever  beheld.  Wlien  we  had  passed  these 
people,  not  an  animal  was  to  be  seen  on  the 
borders  of  the  river. 

At  length,  as  we  rounded  a  point,  and 
came  in  view  of  the  Fort,  we  threw  out  a 
flag,  and  accompanied  it  with  a  general  dis- 
charge of  our  fire-arms ;  while  the  men  were 
in  such  spirits,  and  made  such  an  active  use 
of  their  paddles,  that  we  arrived  before  the 
two  men  whom  we  left  here  in  the  spring, 
could  recover  their  senses  to  answer  us. 
Thus  we  landed  at  four  in  the  afternoon,  at 
the  place  which  we  left  on  the  ninth  of  May. 

Here  my  voyages  of  discovery  terminate. 

Their  toils  and  their  dangers,  their  solici- 
tudes and  sufferings,  have  not  been  exagger- 
ated in  my  description.  On  the  contrary,  in 
many  instances,  language  has  failed  me  in 
the  attempt  to  describe  them.  I  received, 
however,  the  reward  of  my  labours,  for  they 
were  crowned  with  success. 
340 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

As  I  have  now  resumed  tlie  character  of  a 
trader  I  shall  not  trouble  my  readers  with 
any  subsequent  concern,  but  content  myself 
with  the  closing  information,  that  after  an 
absence  of  eleven  months,  I  arrived  at  Fort 
Chepewyan,  where  I  remained,  for  the  pur- 
poses of  trade,  during  the  succeeding  winter. 


The  following  general,  but  short,  geo- 
graphical view  of  the  country  may  not  be  im- 
proper to  close  this  work,  as  well  as  some 
remarks  on  the  probable  advantages  that  may 
be  derived  from  advancing  the  trade  of  it, 
under  proper  regulations,  and  by  the  spirit  of 
commercial  enterprize. 

By  supposing  a  line  from  the  Atlantic, 
East,  to  the  Pacific,  West,  in  the  parallel  of 
forty-five  degrees  of  North  latitude,  it  will, 
I  think,  nearly  describe  the  British  territories 
in  North  America.  For  I  am  of  opinion, 
that  the  extent  of  the  country  to  the  South 
of  this  line,  which  we  have  a  right  to  claim, 
is  equal  to  that  to  the  North  of  it,  which 
may  be  claimed  by  other  powers. 

The  outline  of  what  I  shall  call  the  first 
division,  is  along  that  track  of  country  which 
runs  from  the  head  of  James-Bay,  in  about 
latitude  51.  North,  along  the  Eastern  coast, 
as  far  North  as  to,  and  through  Hudson's 
Straits,  round  by  Labrador;  continuing  on 
341 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

the  Atlantic  coast,  on  the  outside  of  the  great 
islands,  in  the  gulf  of  St.  Laurence,  to  the 
river  St.  Croix,  by  which  it  takes  its  course, 
to  the  height  of  land  that  divides  the  waters 
emptying  themselves  into  the  Atlantic,  from 
those  discharged  into  the  river  St.  Laurence. 
Then  following  these  heights,  as  the  boun- 
dary between  the  British  possessions,  and 
those  of  the  American  States,  it  makes  an 
angle  Westerly  until  it  strikes  the  discharge 
of  Lake  Champlain,  in  latitude  45.  North, 
when  it  keeps  a  direct  West  line  till  it  strikes 
the  river  St.  Laurence,  above  Lake  St.  Fran- 
cis, where  it  divides  the  Indian  village  St. 
Eigest ;  from  whence  it  follows  the  centre  of 
the  waters  of  the  great  river  St.  Laurence : 
it  then  proceeds  through  Lake  Ontario,  the 
connection  between  it  and  Lake  Erie ;  through 
the  latter,  and  its  chain  of  connection,  by  the 
river  Detroit,  as  far  South  as  latitude  42. 
North,  and  then  through  the  lake  and  river 
St.  Clair,  as  also  lake  Huron,  through  which 
it  continues  to  the  strait  of  St.  Mary,  latitude 
46.  30.  North ;  from  which  we  will  suppose 
the  line  to  strike  to  the  East  of  North,  to  the 
head  of  James  Bay,  in  the  latitude  already 
mentioned. 

Of  this  great  tract,  more  than  half  is  rep- 
resented as  barren  and  broken,  displaying  a 
surface  of  rock  and  fresh  water  lakes,  with  a 
very  scattered  and  scanty  proportion  of  soil. 
342 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  A3IERI0A. 

Such  is  the  whole  coast  of  Labrador,  and  the 
land,  called  East  Main  to  the  West  of  the 
heights,  which  divide  the  waters  running  into 
the  river  and  gulf  of  St.  Laurence,  from 
those  flowing  into  Hudson's  Bay.  It  is  con- 
sequently inhabited  only  by  a  few  savages, 
whose  numbers  are  proportioned  to  the  scanti- 
ness of  the  soil ;  nor  is  it  probable,  from  the 
same  cause,  that  they  will  encrease.  The 
fresh  and  salt  waters,  with  a  small  quantity 
of  game,  which  the  few,  stinted  woods  afford, 
supply  the  wants  of  nature ;  from  whence,  to 
that  of  the  line  of  the  American  boundary, 
and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  the  soil,  wherever 
cultivation  has  been  attempted,  has  yielded 
abundance ;  particularly  on  the  river  St.  Lau- 
rence, from  Quebec  upwards,  to  the  line  of 
boundary  already  mentioned ;  but  a  very  in- 
considerable proportion  of  it  has  been  broken 
by  the  plough-share. 

The  line  of  the  second  division  may  be 
traced  from  that  of  the  first  at  St.  Mary^s, 
from  which  also  the  line  of  American  boun- 
dary runs,  and  is  said  to  continue  through 
Lake  Superior  (and  through  a  lake  called  the 
Long  Lake  which  has  no  existence),  to  the 
Lake  of  the  Woods,  in  latitude  49.  37.  North, 
from  whence  it  is  also  said  to  run  West  to 
the  Mississippi,  which  it  may  do,  by  giving 
it  a  good  deal  of  Southing,  but  not  otherwise ; 
us  the  source  of  that  river  does  not  extend 
343 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

further  North  than  latitude  47.  38.  North, 
where  it  is  no  more  than  a  small  brook ;  con- 
sequently, if  Great  Britain  retains  the  right 
of  entering  it  along  the  line  of  division,  it 
must  be  in  a  lower  latitude,  and  wherever 
that  may  be,  the  line  must  be  continued 
West,  till  it  terminates  in  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
to  the  South  of  the  Columbia.  This  division 
is  then  bounded  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the 
West,  the  Frozen  Sea  and  Hudson's  Bay  on 
the  North  and  East.  The  Russians,  indeed, 
may  claim  with  justice,  the  islands  and  coast 
from  Behring's  Straits  to  Cook's  Entry. 

The  whole  of  this  country  will  long  con- 
tinue in  the  possession  of  its  present  inhabi- 
tants, as  they  will  remain  contented  with  the 
produce  of  the  woods  and  waters  for  their 
support,  leaving  the  earth,  from  various 
causes,  in  its  virgin  state.  The  proportion 
of  it  that  is  fit  for  cultivation,  is  very  small 
and  is  still  less  in  the  interior  parts ;  it  is  also 
very  difiicult  of  access ;  and  whilst  any  land 
remains  uncultivated  to  the  South  of  it,  there 
will  be  no  temptation  to  settle  it.  Besides,  its 
climate  is  not  in  general  sufficiently  genial  to 
bring  the  fruits  of  the  earth  to  maturity.  It 
will  also  be  an  asylum  for  the  descendants  of 
the  original  inhabitants  of  the  country  to  the 
South,  who  prefer  the  modes  of  life  of  their 
forefathers,  to  the  improvements  of  civiliza- 
tion. Of  this  disposition  there  is  a  recent 
344 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

instance.  A  small  colony  of  Iroquois  emi- 
grated to  the  banks  of  the  Saskatchiwine,  in 
1799,  who  had  been  brought  up  from  their 
infancy  under  the  Homish  missionaries,  and 
instructed  by  them  at  a  village  within  nine 
miles  of  Montreal. 

A  further  division  of  this  country  is  marked 
by  a  ridge  of  high  land,  rising,  as  it  were, 
from  the  coast  of  Labrador,  and  running 
nearly  South- West  to  the  source  of  the  Uta- 
was  River,  dividing  the  waters  going  either 
way  to  the  river  and  gulf  of  St.  Laurence  and 
Hudson's  Bay,  as  before  observed.  From 
thence  it  stretches  to  the  North  of  West,  to 
the  Northward  of  Lake  Superior,  to  latitude 
50.  North,  and  longitude  98.  West,  when  it 
forks  from  the  last  course  at  about  South- 
West,  and  continues  the  same  division  of 
waters  until  it  passes  North  of  the  source  of 
the  Mississippi.  The  former  course  runs,  as 
has  been  observed,  in  a  North -West  direction, 
until  it  strikes  the  river  Nelson,  separating 
the  waters  that  discharge  themselves  into 
Lake  Winipic,  which  forms  part  of  the  said 
river,  and  those  that  also  empty  themselves 
into  Hudson's  Bay,  by  the  Albany,  Severn, 
and  Hay's  or  Hill's  Rivers.  From  thence  it 
keeps  a  course  of  about  West-North-West, 
till  it  forms  the  banks  of  the  Missinipi  or 
Churchill  River,  at  Portage  de  Traite,  lati- 
tude 55.  25.  North.  It  now  continues  in  a 
345 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

Western  direction,  between  the  Saskatchiwine 
and  the  source  of  the  Missinipi,  or  Beaver 
Eiver,  which  it  leaves  behind,  and  divides 
the  Saskatchiwine  from  the  Elk  Eiver ;  when, 
leaving  those  also  behind,  and  pursuing  the 
same  direction  it  leads  to  the  high  land  that 
lies  between  the  Unjigah  and  Tacoutche 
rivers,  from  whence  it  may  be  supposed  to  be 
the  same  ridge.  From  the  head  of  the  Beaver 
Eiver,  on  the  West,  the  same  kind  of  high 
ground  runs  to  the  East  of  North,  between 
the  waters  of  the  Elk  and  Missinipi  Eiver 
forming  the  Portage  la  Loche,  and  continu- 
ing on  to  the  latitude  57.  15.  North,  divid- 
ing the  waters  that  run  to  Hudson's  Bay 
from  those  going  to  the  North  Sea:  from 
thence  its  course  is  nearly  North,  when  an 
angle  runs  from  it  to  the  North  of  the  Slave 
Lake,  till  it  strikes  Mackenzie's  Eiver. 

The  last,  but  by  no  means  the  least,  is  the 
immense  ridge,  or  succession  of  ridges  of 
stony  mountains,  whose  Northern  extremity 
dips  in  the  North  Sea,  in  latitude  70.  North, 
and  longitude  135.  West,  running  nearly 
South-East,  and  begins  to  be  parallel  with  the 
coast  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  from  Cook's  entry, 
and  so  onwards  to  the  Columbia.  From 
thence  it  appears  to  quit  the  coast,  but  still 
continuing,  with  less  elevation,  to  divide  the 
waters  of  the  Atlantic  from  those  which  run 
into  the  Pacific.  In  those  snow-clad  moun- 
346 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AIVIERICA. 

tains  rises  the  Mississippi,  if  we  admit  the 
Missouri  to  be  its  source,  which  flows  into 
the  Gulph  of  Mexico ;  the  Eiver  Nelson,  which 
is  lost  in  Hudson's  Bay;  Mackenzie's  Kiver, 
that  discharges  itself  into  the  North  Sea; 
and  the  Columbia  emptying  itself  into  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  The  great  River  St.  Laurence 
and  Churchill  Eiver,  with  many  lesser  ones, 
derive  their  sources  far  short  of  these  moun- 
tains. It  is,  indeed,  the  extension  of  these 
mountains  so  far  South  on  the  sea  coast,  that 
prevents  the  Columbia  from  finding  a  more 
direct  course  to  the  sea,  as  it  runs  obliquely 
with  the  coast  upwards  of  eight  degrees  of 
latitude  before  it  mingles  with  the  ocean. 

It  is  further  to  be  observed,  that  these 
mountains,  from  Cook's  entry  to  the  Colum- 
bia, extend  from  six  to  eight  degrees  in 
breadth  Easterly ;  and  that  along  their  East- 
ern skirts  is  a  narrow  strip  of  very  marshy, 
boggy,  and  uneven  ground,  the  outer  edge  of 
which  produces  coal  and  bitumen:  these  I 
saw  on  the  banks  of  Mackenzie's  River,  as 
far  North  as  latitude  66.  I  also  discovered 
them  in  my  second  journey,  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  rocky  mountains  in  56.  North 
latitude,  and  120.  West  longitude;  and  the 
same  was  observed  by  Mr.  Fidler,  one  of  the 
servants  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  at 
the  source  of  the  South  branch  of  the  Sas- 
katchiwine,  in  about  latitude  52  North,  and 
347 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

longitude  112.  30.  West.*  Next  to  this  nar- 
row belt  are  immense  plains,  or  meadows, 
commencing  in  a  point  at  about  the  junction 
of  the  River  of  the  Mountain  with  Macken- 
zie's Eiver,  widening  as  they  continue  East 
and  South,  till  they  reach  the  Red  River  at 
its  confluence  with  the  Assiniboin  Eiver, 
from  whence  they  take  a  more  Southern  di- 
rection, along  the  Mississippi  towards  Mexico. 
Adjoining  to  these  plains  is  a  broken  country, 
composed  of  lakes,  rocks,  and  soil. 

From  the  banks  of  the  rivers  running 
through  the  plains,  there  appeared  to  ooze  a 
saline  fluid,  concreting  into  a  thin,  scurf  on 
the  grass.  Near  that  part  of  the  Slave  River 
where  it  first  loses  the  name  of  Peace  River, 
and  along  the  extreme  edge  of  these  plains, 
are  very  strong  salt  springs,  which  in  the 
summer  concrete  and  crystallize  in  great 
quantities.  About  the  Lake  Dauphin,  on 
the  South- West  side  of  Lake  Winipic,  are 
also  many  salt  ponds,  but  it  requires  a  regu- 
lar process  to  form  salt  from  them.  Along 
the  West  banks  of  the  former  is  to  be  seen,  at 
intervals,  and  traced  in  the  line  of  the  direc- 
tion of  the  plains,  a  soft  rock  of  lime-stone, 
in  th,in  and  nearly  horizontal  stratas,  particu- 

*  Bitumen  is  also  found  on  the  coast  of  the  Slave 
Lake,  in  latitude  60.  North,  near  its  discharge  by 
Mackenzie's  River;  and  also  near  the  forks  of  the 
Elk  River. 

34» 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

larly  on  tlie  Beaver,  Cedar,  Winipic,  and 
Superior  lakes,  as  also  in  the  beds  of  the 
rivers  crossing  that  line.  It  is  also  remarka- 
ble that,  at  the  narrowest  part  of  Lake  Wini- 
pic, where  it  is  not  more  than  two  miles  in 
breadth,  the  West  side  is  faced  with  rocks  of 
this  stone  thirty  feet  perpendicular;  while, 
on  the  East  side,  the  rocks  are  more  elevated, 
and  of  a  dark-grey  granite. 

The  latter  is  to  be  found  throughout  the 
whole  extent  North  of  this  country,  to  the 
coast  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  as  I  have  been 
informed,  along  that  coast,  onwards  to  the 
coast  of  Labrador ;  and  it  may  be  further  ob- 
served, that  between  these  extensive  ranges 
of  granite  and  lime-stone  are  found  all  the 
great  lakes  of  this  country. 

There  is  another  very  large  district  which 
must  not  be  forgotten;  and  behind  all  the 
others  in  situation  as  well  as  in  soil,  produce, 
and  climate.  This  comprehends  the  tract 
called  the  Barren  Grounds,  which  is  to  the 
North  of  a  line  drawn  from  Churchill,  along 
the  North  border  of  the  Eein-Deer  Lake,  to 
the  North  of  the  Lake  of  the  Hills  and  Slave 
Lake,  and  along  the  North  side  of  the  latter 
to  the  rocky  mountains,  which  terminate  in 
the  North  Sea,  latitude  70.  North,  and  longi- 
tude 135.  West;  in  the  whole  extent  of 
which  no  trees  are  visible,  except  a  few  stinted 
ones,  scattered  along  its  rivers,  and  with 
349 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

scarce  anything  of  surface  that  can  be  called 
earth ;  yet,  this  inhospitable  region  is  inhab- 
ited by  a  people  who  are  accustomed  to  the 
life  it  requires.  Nor  has  bountiful  nature 
withheld  the  means  of  subsistence ;  the  rein 
deer,  which  supply  both  food  and  clothing, 
are  satisfied  with  the  produce  of  the  hills, 
though  they  bear  nothing  but  a  short  curling 
moss,  on  a  species  of  which,  that  grows  on 
the  rocks,  the  people  themselves  subsist  when 
famine  invades  them.  Their  small  lakes  are 
not  furnished  with  a  great  variety  of  fish, 
but  such  as  they  produce  are  excellent,  which, 
with  hares  and  partridges,  form  a  proportion 
of  their  food. 

The  climate  must  necessarily  be  severe  in 
such  a  country  as  we  have  described,  and 
which  displays  so  large  a  surface  of  fresh 
water.  Its  severity  is  extreme  on  the  coast 
of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  proceeds  from  its  im- 
mediate exposure  to  the  North  West  winds 
that  blow  off  the  Frozen  Ocean. 

These  winds,  in  crossing  directly  from  the 
bay  over  Canada  and  the  British  dominions 
on  the  Atlantic,  as  well  as  over  the  Eastern 
States  of  North  America  to  that  ocean,  (where 
they  give  to  those  countries  a  length  of  win- 
ter astonishing  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  same 
latitudes  in  Europe),  continue  to  retain  a 
great  degree  of  force  and  cold  in  their  pas- 
sage, even  over  the  Atlantic,  particularly  at 
350 


NORTH-WEST   CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

the  time  when  the  sun  is  in  its  Southern  dec- 
lination. The  same  winds  which  come  from 
the  Frozen  Ocean,  over  the  barren  grounds, 
and  across  frozen  lakes  and  snowy  plains, 
bounded  by  the  rocky  mountains,  lose  their 
frigid  influence,  as  they  travel  in  a  Southern 
direction,  till  they  get  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
where  they  close  their  progress.  Is  not  this 
a  sufficient  cause  for  the  difference  between 
the  climate  in  America,  and  that  of  the  same 
latitude  in  Europe? 

It  has  been  frequently  advanced,  that  the 
clearing  away  the  wood  has  had  an  astonish- 
ing influence  in  meliorating  the  climate  in  the 
former :  but  I  am  not  disposed  to  assent  to 
that  opinion  in  the  extent  which  it  proposes 
to  establish,  when  I  consider  the  very  trifling 
proportion  of  the  country  cleared,  compared 
with  the  whole.  The  employment  of  the  axe 
may  have  had  some  inconsiderable  effect ;  but 
I  look  to  other  causes.  I  myself  observed  in 
a  country,  which  was  in  an  absolute  state  of 
nature,  that  the  climate  is  improving;  and 
this  circumstance  was  confirmed  to  me  by  the 
Dative  inhabitants  of  it.  Such  a  change, 
therefore,  must  proceed  from  some  predomi- 
nating operation  in  the  system  of  the  globe 
which  is  beyond  my  conjecture,  and,  indeed, 
above  my  comprehension,  and  may,  probably, 
in  the  course  of  time,  give  to  America  the 
climate  of  Europe.  It  is  well  known,  indeed, 
351 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

that  the  waters  are  decreasing  there,  and  that 
many  lakes  are  draining  and  filling  up  by  the 
earth  which  is  carried  into  them  from  the 
higher  lands  by  the  rivers:  and  this  may 
have  some  partial  effect. 

The  climate  on  the  West  coast  of  America 
assimilates  much  more  to  that  of  Europe  in 
the  same  latitudes :  I  think  very  little  differ- 
ence will  be  found,  except  such  as  proceed 
from  the  vicinity  of  high  mountains  covered 
with  snow.  This  is  an  additional  proof  that 
the  difference  in  the  temperature  of  the  air 
proceeds  from  the  cause  already  mentioned. 

Much  has  been  said,  and  much  more  still 
remains  to  be  said  on  the  peopling  of  America. 
— On  this  subject  I  shall  confine  myself  to 
one  or  two  observations,  and  leave  my  readers 
to  draw  their  inferences  from  them. 

The  progress  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
country  immediately  under  our  observation, 
which  is  comprsised  within  the  line  of  lati- 
tude 45.  North,  is  as  follows:  that  of  the 
Esquimaux,  who  possess  the  sea  coast  from 
the  Atlantic  through  Hudson's  Straits  and 
Bay,  round  to  Mackenzie's  River  (and  I  be- 
lieve further),  is  known  to  be  Westward; 
they  never  quit  the  coast,  and  agree  in  ap- 
pearance, manners,  language,  and  habits  with 
the  inhabitants  of  Greenland.  The  different 
tribes  whom  I  describe  under  the  name  of 
Algonquins  and  Knisteneaux,  but  originally 
352 


KORTH-WEST  CONTINENT   OF  AMERICA. 

the  same  people,  were  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Atlantic  coast,  and  the  banks  of  the  river  St. 
Laurence  and  adjacent  countries :  their  pro- 
gress is  Westerly,  and  they  are  even  found 
West  and  North  as  far  as  Athabasca.  On 
the  contrary,  the  Chepewyans,  and  the  numer- 
ous tribes  who  speak  their  language,  occupy 
the  whole  space  between  the  Knisteneaux 
country  and  that  of  the  Esquimaux,  stretch- 
ing behind  the  natives  of  the  coast  of  the  Pa- 
cific, to  latitude  52.  North,  on  the  river  Co- 
lumbia. Their  progress  is  Easterly,  and, 
according  to  their  own  traditions,  they  came 
from  Siberia ;  agreeing  in  dress  and  manner 
with  the  people  now  found  upon  the  coast  of 
Asia. 

Of  the  inhabitants  of  the  coast  of  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean  we  know  little  more  than  that 
they  are  stationary  there.  The  Nadowasis 
or  Assiniboins,  as  well  as  the  different  tribes 
not  particularly  described,  inhabiting  the 
plains  on  and  about  the  source  and  banks  of 
the  Saskatchiwine  and  Assiniboin  rivers,  are 
from  the  Southward,  and  their  progress  is 
Korth-West. 


The  discovery  of  a  passage  by  sea,  North- 

East  or  North  West  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 

Pacific  Ocean,  has  for  many  years  excited 

the  attention  of  governments,  and  encouraged 

Vol.  II.— 23  353 


<»OXTRNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

the  enterprising  spirit  of  individuals.  Tlie 
non-existence,  however,  of  any  such  practical 
passage  being  at  length  determined,  the  prac- 
ticability of  a  passage  through  the  continents 
of  Asia  and  America  becomes  an  object  of 
consideration.  The  Russians,  who  first  dis- 
covered, that,  along  the  coasts  of  Asia  no 
useful  or  regular  navigation  existed,  opened 
an  interior  communication  by  rivers,  &c.,  and 
through  that  long  and  wide-extended  con- 
tinent, to  the  strait  that  separates  Asia  from 
America,  over  which  they  passed  to  the  adja- 
cent islands  and  continent  of  the  latter.  Our 
situation,  at  length,  is  in  some  degree  similar 
to  theirs :  the  non-existence  of  a  practicable 
passage  by  sea  and  the  existence  of  one 
through  the  continent,  are  clearly  proved; 
and  it  requires  only  the  countenance  and  sup- 
port of  the  British  Government,  to  increase 
in  a  very  ample  proportion  this  national  ad- 
vantage, and  secure  the  trade  of  that  country 
to  its  subjects. 

Experience,  however,  has  proved,  that  this 
trade,  from  its  very  nature  cannot  be  carried 
on  by  individuals.  A  very  large  capital,  or 
credit,  or  indeed  both,  is  necessary,  and  con- 
sequently an  association  of  men  of  wealth  to 
direct,  with  men  of  enterprise  to  act,  in  one 
common  interest,  must  be  formed  on  such 
principles,  as  that  in  due  time  the  latter  may 
succeed  the  former,  in  contmual  and  progres- 
354 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

sive  succession.  Such  was  the  equitable  and 
successful  mode  adopted  by  the  merchants 
from  Canada,  which  has  been  already  de- 
scribed. 

The  junction  of  such  a  commercial  associa- 
tion with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  is  the 
important  measure  which  I  would  propose, 
and  the  trade  might  then  be  carried  on  with 
a  very  superior  degree  of  advantage,  both  pri- 
vate and  public,  under  the  privilege  of  their 
charter,  and  would  prove,  in  fact,  the  com- 
plete fulfilment  of  the  conditions,  on  which 
it  was  first  granted. 

It  would  be  an  equal  injustice  to  either 
party  to  be  excluded  from  the  option  of  such 
an  undertaking ;  for  if  the  one  has  a  right  by 
charter,  has  not  the  other  a  right  by  prior 
possession,  as  being  successor  to  the  subjects 
of  France,  who  were  exclusively  possessed  of 
all  the  then  known  parts  of  this  country,  be- 
fore Canada  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain,  ex- 
cept the  coast  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  having 
themselves  been  the  discoverers  of  a  vast  ex- 
tent of  country  since  added  to  his  Majesty's 
territories,  even  to  the  Hyperborean  and  the 
Pacific  Oceans? 

If,  therefore,  that  company  should  decline, 
or  be  averse  to  engage  in,  such  an  extensive, 
and  perhaps  hazardous  undertaking,  it  would 
not,  surely,  be  an  unreasonable  proposal  to 
them,  from  government,  to  give  up  a  right 
355 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH  THE 

whicli  they  refuse  to  exercise,  on  allowing 
them  a  just  and  reasonable  indemnification 
of  their  stock,  regulated  by  the  average  divi- 
dends of  a  certain  number  of  years,  or  the 
actual  price  at  which  they  transfer  their 
stock. 

By  enjoying  tJie  privilege  of  the  company's 
charter,  though  but  for  a  limited  period, 
there  are  adventurers  who  would  be  willing, 
as  they  are  able,  to  engage  in,  and  carry  on 
the  proposed  commmercial  undertaking,  as 
well  as  to  give  the  most  ample  and  satisfac- 
tory security  to  government  for  the  fulfilment 
of  its  contract  with  the  company.  It  would, 
at  the  same  time,  be  equally  necessary  to  add 
a  similar  privilege  of  trade  on  Columbia 
River,  and  its  tributary  waters. 

If,  however,  it  should  appear,  that  the 
Hudson's  Bay-Company  have  an  exclusive 
right  to  carry  on  their  trade  as  they  think 
proper,  and  continue  it  on  the  narrow  scale, 
and  with  so  little  benefit  to  the  public  as  they 
now  do ;  if  they  should  refuse  to  enter  into  a 
co-operative  junction  with  others,  what  rea- 
sonable cause  can  they  assign  to  government 
for  denying  the  navigation  of  the  bay  to  Nel- 
son's River:  and,  by  its  waters,  a  passage  to 
and  from  the  interior  country,  for  the  use  of 
the  adventurers,  and  for  the  sole  purpose  of 
transport,  under  the  most  severe  and  binding 
restrictions  not  to  interfere  with  their  trade 
356 


NORTH-WEST  CONTINENT  OF  AMERICA. 

on  the  coast,  and  the  country  between  it  and 
the  actual  establishments  of  the  Canadian 
traders.* 

By  these  waters  that  discharge  themselves 
into  Hudson's  Bay  at  Port  Nelson,  it  is  pro- 
posed to  carry  on  the  trade  to  their  source, 
at  the  head  of  the  Saskatchiwine  River, 
which  rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  not  eight 
degrees  of  longitude  from  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
The  Tacoutche  or  Columbia  River  flows  also 
from  the  same  mountains,  and  discharges  it- 
self likewise  in  the  Pacific,  in  latitude  46.  20. 

*  Independent  of  the  prosecution  of  this  great 
object,  I  conceive,  that  the  merchants  from  Canada 
are  entitled  to  such  an  indulgence  (even  if  they 
should  be  considered  as  not  possessing  a  rightful 
claim),  in  order  that  they  might  be  enabled  to  ex- 
tend their  trade  beyond  their  present  limits,  and 
have  it  in  their  power  to  supply  the  natives  with  a 
larger  quantity  of  useful  articles;  the  enhanced 
value  of  which,  and  the  present  difflculty  of  trans- 
porting them,  will  be  fully  comprehended,  when  I 
relate,  that  the  tract  of  transport  occupies  an  extent 
of  from  three  to  four  thousand  miles,  through  up- 
wards of  sixty  large  fresh  water  lakes,  and  numer- 
ous rivers;  and  that  the  means  of  transport  are 
slight  bark  canoes.  It  must  also  be  observed,  that 
those  waters  are  intercepted  by  more  than  two  hua- 
dred  rapids,  along  which  the  articles  of  merchan- 
dise are  chiefly  carried  on  men's  backs,  and  over  a 
hundred  and  thirty  carrjnng-places,  from  twenty - 
five  paces  to  thirteen  miles  in  length,  where  the 
canoes  and  cargoes  proceed  by  the  same  toilsome 
and  perilous  operations. 

357 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  THROUGH   THE 

Both  of  them  are  capable  of  receiving  ships 
at  their  mouths,  and  are  navigable  through- 
out for  boats. 

The  distance  between  these  waters  is  only 
known  from  the  report  of  the  Indians.  If, 
however,  this  communication  should  prove 
inaccessible,  the  route  I  pursued,  though 
longer,  in  consequence  of  the  great  angle  it 
makes  to  the  North,  will  answer  every  neces- 
sary purpose.  But  whatever  course  may  be 
taken  from  the  Atlantic,  the  Columbia  is  the 
line  of  communication  from  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
pointed  out  by  nature,  as  it  is  the  only  navi- 
gable river  in  the  whole  extent  of  Vancouver's 
minute  survey  of  that  coast :  its  banks  also 
form  the  first  level  country  in  all  the  South- 
ern extent  of  continental  coast  from  Cook's 
entry,  and,  consequently,  the  most  Northern 
situation  fit  for  colonization,  and  suitable  to 
the  residence  of  a  civilized  people.  By  open- 
ing this  intercourse  between  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  Oceans,  and  forming  regular  establish- 
ments through  the  interior,  and  at  both  ex- 
tremes, as  well  as  along  the  coasts  and 
islands,  the  entire  command  of  the  fur  trade 
of  North  America  might  be  obtained,  from 
latitude  48.  North  to  the  pole,  except  that 
portion  of  it  which  the  Russians  have  in  the 
Pacific.  To  this  may  be  added  the  fishing 
in  both  seas,  and  the  markets  of  the  four 
quarters  of  the  globe.  Such  would  be  the 
358 


■fy field" f ofVcprri m ercial { enterprise^; and  incalcu- 
~:lable  Twbuld  be  the -produce :  of  fit, ;  when  sup- 
;  ported'  by  the "  operations;''of ;  that  credit,  and 
'capital  which  Great  Britain  so  pre-emihently 
possesses.  Then  would  this  country  begin  to 
be  remunerated  '  for  the  expences  it  has  sus- 
tained in  discovering  and  surveying  the  coast 
of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  which  is  at  present  left 
to  ATTierican  adventurers,  who  without  regu- 
larity or  capital,  or  the  desire  of  conciliating 
future  confidence,  look  altogether  to  the  in- 
terest of  the  moment.  They,  therefore,  col- 
lect all  the  skins  they  can  procure,  and  in 
any  manner  that  suits  them,  and  having  ex- 
changed them  at  Canton  for  the  produce  of 
China,  return  to  their  own  country.  Such 
adventurers,  and  many  of  them,  as  I  have 
been  informed,  have  been  very  successful, 
would  iQStantl}-  .disappear  from  before  a  well- 
regulated  trade. 

It  would  be  very  unbecoming  in  me  to  sup- 
pose for  a  moment,  tliat  the  East- India  Com- 
pany would  hesitate  to  allow  those  privileges 
to  their  fellow-subjects  which  are  permitted 
to  foreigners  in  a  trade,  that  is  so  much  out 
of  the  line  of  their  own  commerce,  and  there- 
fore cannot  be  injurious  to  it- 
Many  polirical  reasons,  which  it  is  not  nec- 
essary here  ro  enumerate,  must  p^-esent  them- 
selves to  ihe  mind  of  eveiy  man  acquainte<? 
with  the  enlarged  system  and  capacities  of 
359 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE. 

Britisli  commerce  in  support  of  the  measare 
wMch  I  have  very  briefly  suggested,  as  prom- 
ising the  most  important  advantages  to  the 
trade  of  the  united  kingdoms. 


THE  END. 


It  is  to  be  observed,  tJiat  the  Courses  throughout  ths 
Journals  are  taken  by  Compass,  and  that  th^  Varia- 
tion must  be  considered. 


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